<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?> 
<rss version="0.91">
<channel>
<title>350 twin (new) - Classic Honda Forum</title>
<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20.html</link>
<description>On special request: a forum dedicated to the Honda CB350, CL350 , SL350  CB350G</description>
<language>en-us</language>
<image>
	<url>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/img/classic-honda-forum.jpg</url>
	<title>350 twin (new) - Classic Honda Forum</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/</link>
	<width>144</width>
	<height>200</height>
	<description>On special request: a forum dedicated to the Honda CB350, CL350 , SL350  CB350G</description>
</image>
<lastBuildDate>Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:24:06 GMT</lastBuildDate>

<item>
	<title>ballistic battery in 72 cb350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/ballisticbatteryin72_t4971.html#4971</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello, I purchased a 72 honda cb350 that I am making into a cafe racer style bike. I have fabricated a fiberglass seat with the bubbled tail piece common in cafe style bikes. I am wanting a small battery that I can hide inside the bubble of the seat. I found some very small ballistic batteries with over the 120 cold cranking amps that I am needing. Will this type of battery work? I had a friend tell me I will need to update the stator and rectifier in order for the ballistic battery to provide consistant charge??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! :lol: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;72 SL350 won&apos;t start</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72sl350wontstart_t4921.html#4931</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Art,

Sorry I don't have an answer for you.  In fact, the reason I came to this forum is I have the same problem.  I bought this motorcycle non-running.  I have done everything that should make it run.  New plugs and points, timing adjusted.  Valves adjusted.  Carbs overhauled.  I have spark to the plugs when I ground them to the side of the engine.  I can squirt starting fluid into the carbs and even that doesn't pop.  My bike doesn't have a kill switch.  Does yours?  Hope we get an answer.

David]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;72 SL350 won&apos;t start</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72sl350wontstart_t4921.html#4921</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm trying to start my 1972 Honda SL350 after a complete teardown/rebuild.  I have checked the timing, compression, get a spark with plug outside of cylinder when cyl#1 is coming up to TDC yet motor won't start. I even poured some gas directly into cylinder #1 with the piston at bottom of stroke coming up to TDC - and don't even get a cough. Granted I could have things off a bit, but everything has been double-checked and I should at least get ignition of the gas poured into the cylinder. I have also eliminated the wiring harness as a factor by removing the " " battery cable and substituting a jumper directly to the coils from the ? ? battery terminal terminal.
Any ideas?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: piston rings, and carb questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repistonrings andcar_t4851.html#4871</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Where are you locaed?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>piston rings, and carb questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/pistonrings andcarbq_t4851.html#4851</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey my name is Thad and i am new to this forum I have a few questions.I   recently pulled my fathers 71' cb350k3 (I believe) out of storage and it currently will not run. I took the jugs to an engine machinist and he ran some hones through them to get rid of some very light surface rust. the rings where junk however and I have looked around online and cant seem to find stock size rings. Also I have been told it was parked after one of the carb diaphragms went bad. All of the aftermarket ones I can find seem crazy expensive to me. any help would be appreciated. Oh and one more thing what brand gasket kits have people had the best luck with? thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>modified 350s</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/modified350s_t4771.html#4771</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Just wondered if anyone has modified 350s,bobber,caferacer,dragracer,ect ect.
If so what mods to frame,engine,suspenion ?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Looking for a rear fender</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/relookingforarearfen_t4731.html#4761</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi saw some nice fenders on ebay,but no nos,a few looked very good.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re:  What is the biggest tire and rim on standard swing arm</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewhatisthebiggestti_t4691.html#4751</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Ive had the old 500/16 harley wheel on a cb350,at present i have a 140/90 15 on my sl and it fits fine]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>new member</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newmember_t4741.html#4741</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Im new here and have rode and raced 350s for over 30 years.
I currently have a 71 sl with a cb motor i built in 1979,and raced till 1985.
Parked it till 2006 then make a street bike out of it,still runs strong.
It has a old powroll 435 bore kit,megacycle cam and ported head with cb450 carbs.Has extensive frame mods,rebel 250 swingarm and shocks,cb350g ft/end,to many mods to list now
I also have a 72 sl,that im building to take to bub at bonneville this year,has factory honda racing piston that take it to 350cc at 12/1 compression,cl175 fuel tank,cbr600 rear wheel and brakes,vt550 ft end and brakes,duck monoshock swingarm
mated to cm250 swingarm,hand made header,megacycle cam larger stainless valves,kibbelwhite springs,balanced crank,electronic ing,dodge minivan coils,solidcore wires,and much more.
I look forward to talking with folks that love 350 twins.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Looking for a rear fender</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/lookingforarearfende_t4731.html#4731</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What are the chances there is still a NOS rear fender for a 1968 CB350 out there? If anyone knows or has links/contacts I would appreciate it. Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb 350 k service manuals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350kservicemanua_t2109.html#4701</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Could you please send me a copy of the CB350 manual as I lost mine when I moved from South Africa.
Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title> What is the biggest tire and rim on standard swing arm</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/whatisthebiggesttire_t4691.html#4691</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi All
what is the biggest tire and rim you can fit on a standard swing arm on a CB 350 twin.
A little cutting on the swing arm is OK and off set sprocket.

Cheers 
 :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Cam Sprocket Setting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350camsprocketse_t4091.html#4671</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If you have just got it 180 degrees out of phase, all you need to do is switch the blue and yellow leads from the coils to the points and  bob's your uncle.  Of course, now your timing marks will be reversed but that beats pulling the engine, eh?

Cheers,
Chris Finlayson
Existential Motorcycles
Alexander, NC
Excited States]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch works intermittently</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchworks_t4021.html#4661</link>
	<description><![CDATA[no, it won't get better on it's own.  The screws that hold the cover that holds the one-way clutch rollers and their tiny springs in place may have backed out - and that may have let one or more of the rollers and springs loose to rattle around on their own.  It's not a hard fix - just pop off the stator and there you are.

Cheers,
Chris Finlayson
Existential Motorcycles
Alexander, NC]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;The very 1st.&apos; CL250 &amp; CL350 KO Export models ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/thevery1stcl250cl350_t4621.html#4621</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone,I'm a new member with a un-restored 1968 CL250 KO,which,came with a full 350cc boremodels.My CL250 KO was the 1st.one to be registered in Australia in July 68.Any Information on the very first ones would be appreciated,cheers,Craig]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 Honda CL350 Speed issue</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73hondacl350speedi_t4231.html#4541</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I figured it out.  Turns out that the air filters that were purhased off ebay was chocking out the Carbs.  So going with a bigger jet was getting it way to much fuel.  I went smaller 100 to be exact and it work out great. she is doing 75 - 80mph in which that is all I was really looking for.  I love this bike.  Retro and Fun  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 k2 carb trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2carbtrouble_t4311.html#4481</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Good idea. Make sure when you order your kit that it has the right float valve set. I got a kit that had a float valve that was considerably longer than the stock valve and didn't match the standard float height for that carb causing the valve to close way too early. Here's a link to a post I put up showing a pic of the difference in valve length.

http://www.vjmog.com/ftopic-9134-days0-orderasc-15.html

Of course you can change the float height to accommodate a longer valve but it's a little tricky. I just bit the bullet and ordered the OEM valves from the Honda dealer. 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Grab bar for what bike?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/grabbarforwhatbike_t4451.html#4451</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey All - I have a grab bar in excellent condition that I think is a Honda part. It won't fit my '71 CB350. It's too small. I'm thinking it's from a smaller CB. Below are the dimensions. If you are in need of one, I can email pics.

Thanks.

Overall length 13-1/4"
Turn signal mount to shock mount end-to-end measurement 9 1/2"
Shock mount side-to-side inside measurement 9-5/16"
Frame mount side-to-side inside measurement 7-1/2"
Turn signal mount side-to-side inside measurement 6-3/4"]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Cam Sprocket Setting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350camsprocketse_t4091.html#4441</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check if the ignition is crossed, I have done that before.    :( ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 honda 350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72honda350_t4041.html#4431</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Max HP is around 50 you will ever get out of these babies and it will cost you a ton of cash.
Fram is weak to start with as well as the suspension, but hey, you have the cash, anything can be done.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CL350 Tachometer / Speedometer</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350tachometerspe_t4271.html#4421</link>
	<description><![CDATA[They are held with screws and rubber.  Shouldn't be a problem disassembling them.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Engine Swap CB for CL?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reengineswapcbforcl_t4051.html#4411</link>
	<description><![CDATA[CB and CL have the same motor.  The SL is different due to missing electric starter.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 k2 carb trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2carbtrouble_t4311.html#4401</link>
	<description><![CDATA[And if I may add,... it's never a bad idea to get a repair kit to replace the jets and seals.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb 350 k service manuals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350kservicemanua_t2109.html#4391</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Do you still have the manual available?  If so, could you send it to jcgonzal83@gmail.com?  Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 Honda CL350 Speed issue</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73hondacl350speedi_t4231.html#4381</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yeah... I was thinking it was compression as well.  I was told that I can place a little oil in the cylinder and see if the compression goes up.  If it does I was told that the rings are bad.  If not then it should be the Valves.  I have not checked the valves yet.  I did tighten up the timing chain tensioner, and that really wasn't all that loose.  
I replaced the points and used a Dwell Meter to make sure the points were as close to the right gap best as possible. If I have to pull the top end off that's not a big deal.  I was looking forward to a winter project anyway  :?  

Now do you think it might be the Jets???  I mean when I get to the 5000rpm in 5th it just pops at me like it isn't getting enough fuel.  I pulled the plugs after a ride I went on and they weren't wet, but they weren't exactly white either.  All well I will try the oil trick to see if the rings are bad or not.  By the way the bike only has about 9000 miles on it.  So for the age of the bike and what I paid ($200 bike   350 parts) guess putting some more time and money isn't too bad.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 Honda CL350 Speed issue</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73hondacl350speedi_t4231.html#4371</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Gary - I'm not an expert by any means but the low compression is likely your problem. That compression is pretty marginal. A bike will run at that compression but not well, which seems to be what you're experiencing. Assuming the carbs are functioning properly and your timing is good, it's probably a matter of the low compression not handling the load on the engine at high speed. It's probably time for cylinder honing and new rings especially if it has a lot of mileage on it. Some might say the cone filters are the problem. I have no experience with that so I couln't say. Sounds like you have the skill to take the top end off and get new rings in there. You should probably replace the cam chain and rollers while you're at it. You'll be able to see the condition of the rollers once you get in there. In fact, if you remove the tensioner you can see the bottom roller. If it's badly chewed up then you'll know the top one is in the same condition. Of course you'll have to split the cases to replace the chain. It's a lot of work but doable. If you don't feel you can handle it, take the engine out, which is really easy to do, and take it to a shop that specializes in vintage bikes. Dealers won't even touch a bike that old.

You're probably looking at $500 with parts and labor. Check with the shop before you buy any parts. Some shops won't use customer parts.

I know this sounds like bad news, but you could easily spend far more than $500 if that chain jumps a roller or a piston ring breaks. Like the old saying, "the cheap man pays twice."

Just a thought. Good luck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 k2 carb trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2carbtrouble_t4311.html#4361</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ooops. I meant the bottom of the carb not the bottom of the bowl for the fuel intake. The bottom of the bowl is for the overflow outlet. Sorry. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Trouble Starting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/retroublestarting_t4261.html#4351</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Nate - You may have an electrical problem. Check your points wire to make sure it's not shorting out on the points case or cover. This is common on the CBs and CLs. The braided wire sheaths fatigue over time and cause shorting or arching against the case or cover. This will allow you to get intermittent spark to the plug but will not provide consistent spark for firing. I had that very problem. Make sure the end that connects to the bottom of the point is not touching anything that would cause shorting. Those connectors are small and flimsy. Also, check where the wire connects to the coil lead under the tank. The right wire is blue (left is yellow) It may be loose from vibration. If the wires or connectors look bad then replace them as they will only get worse over time.

Good luck.

Dmoore]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 k2 carb trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2carbtrouble_t4311.html#4341</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Warren - I had the very same problem recently. It could be many things but usually either your float valve needle is stuck or the float height is wrong causing the valve to close before enough fuel reaches the jets. Be sure to clean the float valve seat, valve body, and needle thoroughly and make sure the needle moves up and down freely. Then check the float height. It varies depending on the model of carb. That should have a Kei Hin carb. There is a model number on the side of the carb body that corresponds to your engine serial number, assuming you have the stock carbs. Check the info below. I have 3Ds on my 71 CB350 so my float height would be 26mm measured from the edge of the float chamber to the top of the float. Also, make sure your intake passage is clear. That's where the fuel line comes into the bottom of the bowl. Shoot compressed air up through the intake post and you should feel it come out into the bowl.

Dmoore

Carb model 350A
engine serial # 1000001- 1045164
Float level 19mm
Standard main jet #60 primary #115 secondary
Standard slow jet #38
Idle mixture screw initial setting 3/4 turns from closed
Idle speed 1200rpm.

Carb model 3B & 3C
engine serial # 1045165- 1065278
Float level 21mm
Standard main jet #70 primary #110 secondary
Standard slow jet #35
Idle mixture screw initial setting 1 turn from closed
Idle speed 1200rpm

Carb model 3D, 722A, 726A, 728A 
engine serial # 1065279 and subsequent
Float level 26mm
Standard main jet #68 primary (722A,726A# #70 primary #3D,728A#
Secondary #70 #3D,728A#, #105 #3D, 722A, 726A#
Standard slow jet #35
Idle mixture screw initial setting:
3/4 turn from closed #3D#
1 1/8 turns from closed #722A, 726A, 728A)
Idle speed 1200rpm.
  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Won&apos;t shift up into second </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350wontshiftupin_t3961.html#4331</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Rusty - I sesee there were no replies to your shift problem. Have you figured it out? I have the same problem but have pretty much eliminated the clutch. I think I may have pinched the shift linkage when I put the cases back together after replacing the timing chain and rollers. What did youfind was the problem or have you?

Thanks.

DMoore]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb350 k2 carb trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350k2carbtrouble_t4311.html#4311</link>
	<description><![CDATA[my dad acquired a cb350 k2 from his lil brother, we cleaned carbs, new battery, fixed points, new starter. the only thing is the bike feels like it wants to start but the left carb is not getting any gas but the fuel line has gas in it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Lindbergh Co. in Japan</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/lindberghcoinjapan_t4281.html#4281</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi All
beware of Lindbergh Co. in Japan  :twisted: ,they sell books and poster
A few months ago I paid for a poster of Honda race bikes from the 1960's and have been ripped off.
After many emails and even a phone call to them,( from Australia which was fun) nothing.

Be warned

Richard]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CL350 Tachometer / Speedometer</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cl350tachometerspeed_t4271.html#4271</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How do you dissamble a CL350 tach or speedometer?  It appears that you must remove the crimped ring around the outside.  If so, can that be done without destroying it?  Can it be re-used?  Or is there some other way to get it apart?  Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Trouble Starting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/troublestarting_t4261.html#4261</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1973 Honda CL350. Recently it was having trouble with the idle circuit on my right cylinder. Every now and then the bike would bump down to only the left cylinder. I thoroughly cleaned the carbs, checked my points, compression and timing. Put it all back together and it won't even start now.

I checked spark, poured gas into the cylinders (several times) but the gas poured out in the exhaust and didnt even burn up. If I have spark and it is getting fresh gas what remedies, advice or experience can you throw my way? I have the summer off and intend to keep working on it till I can ride it care free.

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb 350 k service manuals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350kservicemanua_t2109.html#4251</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hy, can you send me the manual for the 350 to moldousa@gmail.com
thanks appreciate that]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Countershaft Cover Stuck</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/countershaftcoverstu_t4241.html#4241</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This is my first bike and my first time working on a motorcycle. I have a 72 CB350K. I have been trying to remove the countershaft cover and it's not budging. I removed the shifter lever and the 4 screws holding the cover. The Clymer manual says that you don't have to force any of parts but it's not moving. Am I missing something?

Please help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73 Honda CL350 Speed issue</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73hondacl350speediss_t4231.html#4231</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am new to the site so this may have already been covered, but I couldn't find a post on it.  I have a 73 Honda CL350 that I have rebuilt the Carbs (not re-jetted), cut the mufflers off and placed baffles, and I have taken the stock air filters and replaced with Cones.  My compression in the pistons runs around 150 in the left and 135 in the right ( i know we should be around 180 in both). Other than that, I have given it new plugs, fuel line, fuel filters, battery ect...  

So the issue is the bike will not go over 60mph.  It will run perfect from 0 - 40 but in 4th gear it won't go over 6000rpm, and then in 5th it won't go over 5000rpm.  In 5th the bike just sputters and won't rev any higher nor go any faster. 

I was thinking it could be that the Secondary Jet needs to be replaced, but if that is the case would I go with a bigger or a smaller jet?  Or is that even something I should be considering?  I have not done any jetting to this bike, and the previous owner had no clue how to work on it, so I am sure he didn't do anything as well. Any help or even Ideas being thrown around would be great. 

Thanks in advance. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3771.html#4131</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I picked up a 1973 Honda CL350 for $200.  The guy wasn't sure if it ran.  I took it home hooked up a battery and hot wired the iginition.   She started on the first crank. AMMAAAZZZZINGGGGG.  The guy told me he couldn't get it to run and lost the key years ago.  Re-gapped the plugs, and away she went.  Needs some tuning, but for $200.00 craigslist is the best place for used bikes. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 Cam Sprocket Setting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350camsprocketsett_t4091.html#4091</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Greetings All-I recently replaced my cam chain, rollers and tensioner on my 71 CB350 and now I'm having all kinds of trouble setting the timing. Nothing is aligning right. I have great spark at plugs and points. The valves slackened as they should for adjustment at the LT and T marks so they are set right. I have brand new points and plugs in. All wiring connections are good. The iginition switch is ON. I'm getting fuel flow. What I'm not getting is the engine to fire up. It just pops and spits. 

I've tried the test light routine and moved the backing plate all over the place with no good results. I've read all kinds of ways this is supposed work. Some say the light should come on at LF other say is should go off at that point. 

Per the manual, the timing is correct if the left point begins to open at the LF mark on the compression stroke. I have just the opposite. The right point opens. What I dread is when I set the sprocket with the L mark straight up at LT on the rotor, I wasn't truly on the compression stroke. I'm assuming that puts the cam lobes in the wrong position for timing. Is this the case? 

I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who really has experience with this. I have a lot of time, and money, tied up in this so I'm not about to walk away from it. If I have to pull the engine and reset the cam sprocket I'll do that, or whatever it takes, to get this right. So any bad news is pretty much expected. 

Great thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Engine Swap CB for CL?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reengineswapcbforcl_t4051.html#4061</link>
	<description><![CDATA[And...

I just realized someone just asked this question, and it sounds like they would fit. Can anyone else verify this is true?

Thanks again, and sorry for the redundancy. 

Braiden]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Engine Swap CB for CL?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/engineswapcbforcl_t4051.html#4051</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 

My '69 CB350 is currently out of commission, and with my current time restraints, I don't think I'll be able to finish the rebuild for some time. Someone is selling a '72 CL350 in good condition for a good price, but it doesn't have a title, so I couldn't get it registered. Does anyone know if these engines are interchangeable on the frames, or would I have to modify engine mount placement and such to make it work?

Thanks!

Braiden]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 honda 350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72honda350_t4041.html#4041</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have 2 1972 Honda CL350 bikes: one is totally stock, the other has a seized engine which I removed. I want to put in the most powerful engine I can fit into the frame. Will a 450 fit? How many horsies can i get out of the 350 if i have it rebuilt/modified? Any of you old Honda guru's have any ideas what route I can go. I'd like to NOT have to cut/modify the stock frame any more than necessary to make somethin fit.
Steve 612-382-3845
nixshaus@comcast.net]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3771.html#4031</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 71 Yamaha CS3 twin 200cc 2stroke oil injection in great cosmetic and running condition if anyone is interested in buying.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>starter clutch works intermittently</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/starterclutchworksin_t4021.html#4021</link>
	<description><![CDATA[starter motor works perfectly, but the starter clutch only catches occasionally. it's got 9k miles on it and has been sitting for who knows how many years so that the question arises: Is this something that will come back to life with usage or do I really have to fix this? Really?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3771.html#4001</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i've got a '71 350 that has been completely gone through for $2200.-.
Check it out on craigslist.org under Colorado/Western Slope.
A lady friend of mine just bought a survivor, one family owned, always garaged for $1600.- and it still took me about a week and a bunch of parts to just get it to run right and for everything to work again.
I've found basket cases for under $500, but for a clean bike that's ready to go, well you'd have to get very lucky (and it does happen).
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 Won&apos;t shift up into second </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350wontshiftupinto_t3961.html#3961</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just ran the bike for the first time today since 1983. It shifts into first and neutral just fine but won't go any further up into second. I inherited it from my dad and tore it down to have everything repainted. He says it ran wonderfully when he put it in storage and it has 6300 miles on it. 

Could I have shift lever in the wrong position? Would that even prevent it from shifting any further? 

What about clutch adjustment? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacing  Insulator gasket - do I need sealant ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacinginsulator_t3711.html#3941</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It's never a bad idea so you get a nice tight seal.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;69 CB350 Rebuild Thread (questions)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cb350rebuildthre_t3731.html#3931</link>
	<description><![CDATA[That's great.  It sounds like you are having fun with your project already.
Keep up the good spirits because it will get a little frustrating now and then.
I'm sure you will get through it just fine.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3771.html#3921</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Parts are cheap and readily available.
Honda imported 326,000 units to the US alone.
As far as I know it still holds the record for most bikes ever produced and sold.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CL/CB ENGINE and compatibles</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reclcbengineandcompa_t3891.html#3911</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It would, but why would you do that?
The CB/CL 450 had a better frame configuration.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CL/CB ENGINE and compatibles</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/clcbengineandcompati_t3891.html#3891</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a cl 350 and im looking for a new engine. i know that the cl and the cb are the same thing so thats not the question at hand. i want to know if a larger cc(450) will fit on the bike if the engine is just replaced completely
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3771.html#3871</link>
	<description><![CDATA[bike bandit has a good supply. Look at there site to get an idea. Ebay is also a good place too.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>quiet muffler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/quietmuffler_t3861.html#3861</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have some after market pipes on my cb350 and they're loud. does anybody know of a quiet pair out there?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3771.html#3851</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you for the replies, I have read some where someone paid $500 for a running CB350 but cannot find it any where near this price. It's mostly between $2000-4000. Are parts for these CB hard to find and expensive? This is what I'm afraid of.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 Honda CB 350 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969hondacb350_t2311.html#3841</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The best advise I can give you is get or download, a shop manual.
The CB/CL/SL 350's are pretty mush straight forward.
With the manual you can do everything yourself.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3771.html#3831</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The wise guys are right... it is worth what you are willing to pay.
However, if it doesn't break your bank, pay what you are comfortable with.
Pricing has gone up because of this "Cafe`Racer" craze.
Most I spent on one is 1,200.00 USD in good, running condition.
It's up to you.
It's not always easy to use emotional intelligence when it comes to toys.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350oiltype_t3271.html#3821</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have read that you need oil that is specialy made for "wet clutch" engines. It's siad that the oil will say O.K for wet clutch motorcycle engines. (No detergents or aditives!) Then what ever weight that fits your use.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3771.html#3811</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just got a 72 cb350 in O.K shape. It runs but the carbs need rebuilt. I'll do it my self. I paid $1900 for it. i'm in florida and everything i've seen was between 2000 to 4000. Some say that 500 for something in o.k running shape. Like I say I never saw deals like that. Some wise guys will say it's worth what you are willing to pay for it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;69 CB350 Rebuild Thread (questions)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cb350rebuildthre_t3731.html#3801</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just wanted to let everyone know that the tool mentioned above fit perfectly, and with the help of a screw driver lodged between the filter housing and the clutch housing, I was able to remove the lock nut with ease. 

Onward!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;69 CB350 Rebuild Thread (questions)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cb350rebuildthre_t3731.html#3781</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks for the well wishes, and the lead on the tool. I found one over at motion pro (Part # 08-0015), and though not listed as a Honda tool, the description mentions that it should fit. If not, I'll check out the one at Bore-Tech.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/thinkingofbuyinga71c_t3771.html#3771</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all,

This guy is selling a 71 cb350 twin in decent condition, no rust and everything is still original. It's been sitting in his garage for a long period of time; it will start and idle but when giving gas it stumbles. The paint has faded on top of tank, he's selling it for $1500, this would be my first bike, is this a good price?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;69 CB350 Rebuild Thread (questions)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cb350rebuildthre_t3731.html#3741</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,
Have fun and good luck with your rebuild first off.

There is a socket you can acquire at Bore-Tech for the oilfilter removal.

I never heard that you had to pay attention on TDC for disassembly.

Important is though, lots of ziplock baggies and mark them well.
Take your time and do it right.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;69 CB350 Rebuild Thread (questions)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/69cb350rebuildthread_t3731.html#3731</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all!

I'm rebuilding a '69 CB350 this winter with a few friends, and I was hoping to tap into some good advice. We've removed the engine (a little early, I think), pulled the side and valve covers, and now were stuck on two things. 

1. Do I need to put the engine in TDC before removing the cylinders and breaking the case. We're split on this one, and I don't want to find myself stuck during reassembly. 

2. I need a wrench to remove the locknut inside the oil filter housing. Does anyone have one they want to lend or get rid of? If not, do you know where I can score one. 

I'll also be posting some pics as we progress. 

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Replacing  Insulator gasket - do I need sealant ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/replacinginsulatorga_t3711.html#3711</link>
	<description><![CDATA[New Honda CB 350 owner and I am replacing the carburetor insulator and gasket and I'm wondering if I need to use gasket sealant like you would on a car's head gasket.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Joe]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350oiltype_t3271.html#3611</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Mineral based 15W-50 Motul or AGIP seemed to be the best choice that worked for me. Mineral 10W40 is hard to find.
Always keep the oil change periods(1000 miles or 1500 km) seems short but  there is no actual oil filter, just the centrifugal.
Otherwise Your cylinder head won't get enough lubrication and will get heavily worn and noisy.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Front End Upgrades?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refrontendupgrades_t1702.html#3601</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If you do this, you use the entire front-end.   :roll: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Solenoid and Starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resolenoidandstarter_t2531.html#3581</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You have a short somewhere between ignition and starter.
Starters can be rebuild.  Kits are available.
I don't think yo fried anything.  The 350 twins are pretty simple and straight forward.  Just need to trace things.
My suggestion,... get a shop manual.  You can download one for free online.  That makes life so much easier.
If you need any more help, let me know.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cl350 Carbs Help -1970</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350carbshelp-197_t3421.html#3571</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If you have a salvage yard somewhere close, you can normally get carbs for $ 20 or # 30 USD.  If you find some carbs and the membrane is still intact, use some vasoline on them to keep them flexible and from drying up.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350oiltype_t3271.html#3561</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Oil is up to you.  Go with a brand you feel comfortable with (10W/40).
Personally, I use Castrol.  Oil change intervals are more important and that you clean out the oil filter.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Early 70&apos;s cb350 2cyl into a mid 70&apos;s cb750 frame???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reearly70scb3502cyli_t1713.html#3521</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Oh it will work, but why are you doing this?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: I need help with my kick start spring!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reineedhelpwithmykic_t1981.html#3511</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It's in the manual really.
Download it for free if you don't have it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 68 cb350 carb problems?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re68cb350carbproblem_t3471.html#3501</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The carb is set way too rich.
Check the jets and needle as well as adjuster screws.
Also check and recheck the diaphram rubber.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>68 cb350 carb problems?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/68cb350carbproblems_t3471.html#3471</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The bike will start up and run fine until it gets even a little bit warm, then it will choke itself out on gas.  When I restart it wont go above 1200 rpm, and that is with the throttle wound out all the way.  If I shut the petcock off and wait then the gas starts to run out and it revs up like normal.  the float valves are set at the correct height.  the carbs are clean and as far as I can inspect the rubbers on the carbs are in good shape.  Please help! and thank you]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cl350 Carbs Help -1970</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350carbshelp-197_t3421.html#3441</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have patched the diaphragms with silicon, (available at any parts store). They will last a while, but it's better than buying new ones. The brass nipple can be reinstalled successfully. I clean the nipple with carb cleaner, brake cleaner, acetone, etc., and use loctite retaining compound (green). It holds really well. On both repairs, use the silicone and loctite sparingly. some other things to check; make sure the slides are clean, I polish them with a good metal polish, make sure the needles aren't bent or worn. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Cl350 Carbs Help -1970</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cl350carbshelp-1970_t3421.html#3421</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey you guys, new to this forum, and I just got ahold of a 1970 Cl350.

I've started off by taking off both carbs, and giving them a rundown, because the bike has not been on the road in 30 years.  Both diaphragms have 1 very small slit in both of them, about 1/4 of an inch long. How successful can I be with patching the slit up? Because 100$ hurts for a set of new ones.

And also, upon removing one of the fuel lines, It pulled out the brass nipple with it.  Did I just majorly screw something up? Or can I just shove the piece back in upon installation of the carbs?

Any tips on cleaning these carbs besides the obvious? 

I am in high-school, so I'm definitely not Mr. Moneybags haha.

Thanks Guys. I hope I can be of some help here.

-Nick]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350oiltype_t3271.html#3411</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey, if you look on your oil fill cap, it says 10w-40 right on her.

So just any 10w-40 oil that your comfortable with.


Have a good day.

-Nick]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 19 inch wheel on 1970 CB350???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re19inchwheelon1970c_t1939.html#3401</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would have liked to do this as I do a fair bit of gravel road riding and I liked the idea of getting an aventure tyre as there are plenty in 19". Here in New Zealand there are nil choices in 18" adventure tyres to fit the Honda.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 19 inch wheel on 1970 CB350???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re19inchwheelon1970c_t1939.html#3391</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would have liked to do this as I do a fair bit of gravel road riding and I liked the idea of getting an aventure tyre as there are plenty in 19". Here in New Zealand there are nil choices in 18" adventure tyres to fit the Honda.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Best manual for rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebestmanualforrebui_t1970.html#3381</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I found the honda shop manual best. Sometimes the manuals say assembly is the reversal of dissasembly which doesnt help if you start with a pile of bits. This is where a parts book comes in handy or the parts fiches online as they have exploded veiws of how the parts go together. These are fun bikes to work on.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1972 Honda CB 350 Exhaust Question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1972hondacb350exha_t3101.html#3371</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I used Dunstal replicas on my CB350. Works for me.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Mid RPM surge/stumble. Any ideas?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remidrpmsurgestumble_t3111.html#3361</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I found timing with a timing light more accurate than static timing. I had what I thought was carb problems turned out one of the coils was malfunctioning when the engine warmed up. Also make sure the valves are set correctly.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 generator rotor removal tool</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350generatorroto_t3281.html#3351</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi I use a spare rear axel.
Screw it in a few taps and its off.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CL350 K4 riding problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350k4ridingprobl_t2451.html#3341</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Man, I would sure like to get an answer to your question. Please get back to me if you figured it out. I had a problem with mine at freeway speeds veering one way then the other. I tried jiggling the handlebars once at 60 and the damn thing nearly went berserk. I put the bike up on its stand in the driveway and pushed the rear of the back tire back and forth and it MOVED, Not a good thing. I had to replace worn rear pivot bushings. they were barely worn but I doesn't take much. Very dangerous - I don't know if that is your problem but I would certainly check it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350oiltype_t3271.html#3331</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I can't believe 29 motorcyclists read your post and none of them bothered to answer. That is what forums are for. I bet those same folks gripe about their posts not being answered. I once posted this question on another forum and got several immediate replies. All of them advise me to use good quality motorcycle oil - especially if the bike has a wet clutch, which yours does. I am no expert but my CL350 is my 7th Honda. As I read through the posts I see a lot of questions that I could have asked but they have 0 responses as well. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New Honda CB350 Owner </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewhondacb350owner_t3261.html#3321</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I found my manual online last year. It was easy. A printed manual can be found sometimes on ebay but pricey. Mine is a CL350 but nearly identical. email me at nirdlobkin@yahoo.com and I will send you the file if you cna't locate one..]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Lights dim over 3000 RPM</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350lightsdimover_t3291.html#3301</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I disconnected the original Honda voltage regulator (under the battery) and the problem is resolved! I had installed the recommended Radio Shack bridge rectifier last year which apparently also regulates the voltage. I wish someone had mentioned to remove the present voltage regulator for this modification. Lesson learned.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB 350 Lights dim over 3000 RPM</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350lightsdimover30_t3291.html#3291</link>
	<description><![CDATA[CB350 has new fully charged battery. Runs great and lights get brighter when revving so I know the gen is working. Gen voltage goes from 32 to 40 something when increasing RPM to over 5ooo RPM. I have checked the regulator with an ohmmeter and it checks good. However, when I rev engine over 3000 RPM all the lights dim and there is no charge from the generator. It seems as thought something is shunting the excess current to ground. I have spent hours online but can find nothing about this exact problem. Please advise. Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb350 generator rotor removal tool</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350generatorrotorr_t3281.html#3281</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I bought a 2 inch 16mm bolt with 1.5 threads. Bottom it out with vigor and rap the head a few times with a hammer. Mine took over 20 firm hits but it came off with no further probs.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cl350oiltype_t3271.html#3271</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks for the help guys! i rewired the bike and only the rectifier was fried but probably didn't hurt to get a new one.

does anyone have any recommendations what brand and how often i should change the oil?

Also, how many miles on average do these engines go for if properly maintained? My bike is a 1970 cl350 and it has 16000 miles on it. i ride it about 10 miles every day.

thanks

eric  

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>New Honda CB350 Owner </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newhondacb350owner_t3261.html#3261</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Guy's,

I just purchased a 1968 CB350 and would like some help restoring it. If anyone could provide me the follow information it would be greatly appreciated.

1) Owners manual
2) Repair manual
3) Suggestions or ideas for restoring the bike

Thanks  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Oil Pump Screen Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350oilpumpscreen_t2082.html#3251</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It does take some disassembly.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: high revving in neutral and when stopped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehighrevvinginneutr_t2128.html#3241</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would also go through the carbs.
Never hurts.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1973 cb350 replacement master cylinder???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1973cb350replaceme_t3131.html#3231</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Replacing is NOT a bad idea.
Really depends if you want to keep it original or make it individual.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Mid RPM surge/stumble. Any ideas?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remidrpmsurgestumble_t3111.html#3221</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Also check, membrane and timing again.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Mods??</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remods_t2981.html#3211</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How late are you thinking?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 honda cl350 fried wires question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970hondacl350frie_t3061.html#3201</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Wires are easy and cheap to run and replace.
Like said previously,... the other components are not so cheap.
But first things first, run new wires.
If you have a service manual, the diagram is in there.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1972 Honda CB 350 Exhaust Question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1972hondacb350exha_t3101.html#3191</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It's not that difficult to make your own.
Sheds some weight as well.
Hi-Pipe/Scrambler type gives you a better torque curve.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Coil wire</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recoilwire_t3121.html#3181</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It is definitely time for a new one.
Even the cheap/low cost ones have better reliability.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Mid RPM surge/stumble. Any ideas?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remidrpmsurgestumble_t3111.html#3161</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I had this same problem with my 1973 cl350, that range is controled by the primary main jet. I had a number 70 and went to a 72 that has solved the problem and it has good acceleration through the rpm range with no hesitation. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 honda cl350 fried wires question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970hondacl350frie_t3061.html#3151</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, 

Well the true answer to your question is that you really wont know until you replace the melted and fused wires. If funding isn't an issue and since you are tearing the electrical system apart it might be beneficial to replace them anyway. However, from a purely electrical stand point, the things I would probably worry about the most would be the rectifier and the condenser. But if the wires melted together chances are they found a ground some where and that may have saved it all. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Coil wire</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recoilwire_t3121.html#3141</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I had the same problem, I attempted to fix the my coil wire on the original ignition coils and found that while I was able to do it with some success I didnt fully trust the repair. I found a replacement coil from a guy parting out his 350 for a low cost and just went with that option. I would suggest a new coil, plus if you have the originals it might be a good thing to replace them anyway. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 cb350 replacement master cylinder???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1973cb350replacement_t3131.html#3131</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 

I am working on building a cb350 cafe racer and the original master cylinder is rather in pieces of rusty mess and I was wondering if anyone knew of a good replacement. I have considered getting a rebuild kit but I think it might just be easier to replace the entire thing.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Coil wire</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/coilwire_t3121.html#3121</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Can you repair or replace a broken coil wire, or is it new coil time?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Mid RPM surge/stumble. Any ideas?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/midrpmsurgestumblean_t3111.html#3111</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey guys. I have a little problem with a mid range surge/stumble, and hope you all might be of some help. 
I have re-done the carbs, installed the proper jets, new points, plugs, filters, fuel line and rebuilt the petcock. It idles like a dream, has plenty of power up to about 5000 rpm's and then starts to stumble and doesn't seem to want to go. Back it back down to around 4000 rpm's and it runs perfect. It seems to do it when it's warm. 
I have not changed the condensers, checked the timing, adjusted the cam chain or adjusted the valves. 
I do have a touchy key switch that has a connection problem. It died on me on the way to church, losing all electrical power. I fiddled with the wires behind the switch and it started back up. It's done that one other time to me. So I also wonder if the stumble isn't caused by the poor electrical connection at that RPM where maybe it has just the right vibration? 
I read a saying years ago that went like this; "90% of all carb problems are electrical." And it sure appears to be carburation, on the surface. But the carbs were meticulously cleaned and rebuilt, everything works as it should. 
So what do you guys think? 
Oh and one other thing, what do you do about a throttle hand that goes to sleep after only 15 minutes of riding. I do not have this problem with my HD Road King]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1972 Honda CB 350 Exhaust Question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1972hondacb350exhaus_t3101.html#3101</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey all, I have a 1972 Honda CB350 twin scrambler type with the high pipes. I would like to switch to the normal low pipe. Original or aftermarket does not matter. I am just looking for something inexpensive. Any ideas or suggestions for a good fit for a good price? Or anyone want to trade low pipes for high ones?

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 honda cl350 fried wires question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970hondacl350friedw_t3061.html#3061</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello
I have a 1970 Honda cl350 that ran perfect! i left it over at a friends and apparently the battery died because he left the key on. He then, not knowing anything, tried to jump it with an industrial sized car battery jumper that im sure was way to many amps and whatnot! because he said as soon as he gave it power, smoke started pouring from around the battery!

now that i have trailered it back to my house, i have taken off the: seat,air filters, gas tank,and battery box. So now that all the wires are exposed, i can see that most of the close wires were melted together completly!

My main question is, once i have all the wires replaced (i can do that myself), what is the probability that something else is fried from the power serge? ie. rectifier? starter? or really anything else? 

Thanks in advance for your answers, and i apologize for the beginner question!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t1952.html#3001</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've had a 71 cl350 for a year now and agree with John that most hiccups are due to carb issues. Are the carbs clean? Like really f'ing clean? Also run it up the line, literally. Fuel lines clean and clear? Petcock in good shape? Tank clean? 
I bought mine from a guy who had the good sense to repaint the tank without covering the gaping hole on top. So I can tell you for sure that metallic orange paint flakes are bad food for honda engines. I've heard regular old dirt isn't great for them either. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Mods??</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/mods_t2981.html#2981</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anyone tried to use a later model seat/tank on there CB's...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Stop light doesn&apos;t work</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restoplightdoesntwor_t2711.html#2881</link>
	<description><![CDATA[A coincidence indeed. I'm glad you worked it out in the end  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Stop light doesn&apos;t work</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restoplightdoesntwor_t2711.html#2871</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It was the stop switch. I replaced it and the break light works fine. The old one must have been on it's last leg by coincidence.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 68/69 CB 350 carb specs?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re6869cb350carbspecs_t2771.html#2861</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Got it to work. I replaced the stop switch and it's working fine. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 68/69 CB 350 carb specs?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re6869cb350carbspecs_t2771.html#2851</link>
	<description><![CDATA[@shadow: thanks for sharing that PDF  :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How much should i pay for a 1973 CB350G</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowmuchshouldipayf_t1662.html#2841</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Depending on condition, I pick them up for $ 150 - 500 USD.
It's not like it's a rare bike.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73&apos; cb350G timing problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73cb350gtimingprob_t1676.html#2831</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If it came off the bike it should fit back in.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: What size Mikuni s?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewhatsizemikunis_t1724.html#2821</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The 32mm work the best.
Jetting is something you have to work on to fit your application that you want it to do.  (street/race)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1971 CB 350 Starter clutch bad?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1971cb350startercl_t2000.html#2811</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If your motor doesn't turn over by kick-start, you might have to tear it down.  (seizure)
If it turns over with kick-starter, then take the starter off and left-side cover.  Might be missing engagement gears.
Do you have a manual?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CL350 K4 riding problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350k4ridingprobl_t2451.html#2801</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check your chain alignment and your motor mounts.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 68/69 CB 350 carb specs?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re6869cb350carbspecs_t2771.html#2791</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Here is a link for you that will help you.
Enjoy the freebe.   :wink: 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>color codes?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/colorcodes_t2781.html#2781</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I did a search and did not find any of the color codes? does anyone have the correct code for a 1968 CB350 blue? in PPG or ? thanks Biz]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>68/69 CB 350 carb specs?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/6869cb350carbspecs_t2771.html#2771</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm finally working on my wife's CB 350. The guy that "tuned" it before did an Ok job but it still ran bad. The first thing I did was replace the diaphragms. When i did this I noticed that there were two different needles in the slides. I had another slide lying around so i put in the needle that slide. now both slides have a #24330 needle in them. the slide that the needle came out of was 2mm shorter than the other two. I'm going to try and run the #24330 needle and a slide that looks like it is 46mm long. How does this sound? i could also use some help on the screw turn setting on all the carb adjustments. The original set-up with the shorter needle was just letting in way too much fuel and I want to cure that. Thanks for any help you can give in advance.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Stop light doesn&apos;t work</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/stoplightdoesntwork_t2711.html#2711</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Everyone - I have a 1971 CB 350 K3. I had the stop light working recently and don't know why it's now inoperable. I checked the bulb and the filaments are not broken. The turn signals work and the taillight illuninates but the stop light won't light up when I push the brake pedal down. I checked the green/yellow wire connections both at the taillight assembly and from the rear brake stop switch to the wire harness and they seem fine.  I even ran a test wire from the taillight to the harness just to make sure the original green/yellow wire wasn't shorting out. The black wire from the stop switch to the harness also looks good and has a tight connection.

It seems that the taillight is too bright. It looks more like the brightness of the stop light. Could it be that the stop light switch went bad and is hanging up causing the taillight to illuminate so brightly? It looks to be the original stop switch. These obviously get a lot of use. The bike has 26K on it.

Also,under the gas tank on the left side, there is unmated green wire with female connector coming out the same subharness as the black/white(coil), light green (horn), grey (flasher relay) and black (flasher relay/horn) all of which are properly mated. There is no other wire in that area that would seem to connect to that green one. Does anyone know what this is for? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Solenoid and Starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/solenoidandstarter_t2531.html#2531</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ubject: Solenoid and Starter Stuck - 1972 Honda CL350

im 22 from boston. new to the forum. new to bikes.

Been fixated on vintage bikes and old cafe racers for the last few years. finally had a little extra cash and bought a 1972 honda cl350 k4 scrambler for $500 at the end of last summer. Thought it was beautiful. Ran for a month and then died. thought the engine was siezed. pulled it out last week and the engine kicked over so I regained hope and decided it might be worth my time to start working on it.

I'm not only new to bikes, im completely new to engines in general. I look forward to working through the whole thing, step by step, to get a grasp on the invaluable knowledge of understanding an engine system.


put in a new battery- had a good spark so i filled it up and thought id give it a whirl.


i hit my starter it would stop cranking. javascript:emoticon('');

i had previously read that if such a thing happens the starter will wear itself out and the battery will boil which would lead to two expensive replacements. i quickly unscrewed the battery in hopes to save it as well as the starter. i dont know if i saved it or potentially caused more damage. 


please let me know if any of you guys have any feedback on this problem. In addition, I'm hoping to find someone who might be willing to help me as more problems arise.
   ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replace the air cleaner bar</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacetheairclean_t2411.html#2521</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My email is dmoore2222@ymail.com. Email me and I'll send the pics.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replace the air cleaner bar</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacetheairclean_t2411.html#2481</link>
	<description><![CDATA[would love to see the pics.... I have to replace that soon..]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rear Brake Adjustment Problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerearbrakeadjustmen_t2431.html#2471</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Augusto -  It was indeed the shoes. They worn down to practically nothing. I replaced them and they work fine. Thanks for your response.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rear Brake Adjustment Problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerearbrakeadjustmen_t2431.html#2461</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, did you verify the status of the brake shoes??  I believe they are gone and you cant use the brake with pedal anymore.  Otherwise check the status of the brake arm that may slip on the main rod under use.  Let me know. Augusto. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CL350 K4 riding problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cl350k4ridingproblem_t2451.html#2451</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello , I need help to understand if mine is a common problem to all 350 and mainly the scrambler version or if I have a serious problem with the frame\front suspension.  My bike , purchesed in November, doesen't go straight, The problem is quite evident at low speed.  If I seat 5 cm on the right side of the seat and not just in the middle , the bike goes straight with no hands on the handlebar.  The bike has only 5500 miles and runs greatly.  No signs of an accident or fall.  Thanks to whoever can help me understand.  :( ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Rear Brake Adjustment Problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rearbrakeadjustmentp_t2431.html#2431</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I can?t get the adjustment right for the rear brake.  The brake bites when I push the brake arm forward with the rod and spring off. So I know it bites.But it has to be pushed really far forward before it bites, certainly a lot farther than the normal assembly would take it. When I hook the rod and spring up, no matter how I position the brake arm or tighten the adjuster nut, I can?t get the brake to bite. What am I missing? Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replace the air cleaner bar</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacetheairclean_t2411.html#2421</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Number 2 in the procedure should say 1 and a half inch long. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Replace the air cleaner bar</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/replacetheaircleaner_t2411.html#2411</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Honda CB 350 -  Replacement of the Air Cleaner Bar

Some of you may have already figured this out but for those that haven't, here's what I've come up with after knocking myself trying to install the side covers on my CB 350.

Instead of trying to slip the stock bar through two air filter elements, cases and side covers, try attaching side cover mounting bolts to the air filter elements. 
 
Procedure:
1.At the work bench, fit the air filter case to the air filter element. The case should snap-fit tightly to the element if aligned properly.
2.Run a 1 �? long 6mm 1.00 bolt through the large hole at the back of the filter element and through the attached case. You?ll need a needle nose pliers to guide the bolt through the holes. 
3.Fasten a nut to the bolt to keep the case tight against the filter element.  You now have a mounting bolt for side cover attachment.
4.Bolt the filter element (now with attached case) to the frame as you normally do. 
5.Fit the side cover over the case and the bolt will slip through the side cover grommet.
6.Thread the finish nut onto the new mounting bolt.
See parts drawing below

I have a PDF with pics that I'd be glad to send if you reply with you e-mail address.

 




]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 Honda CB 350 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969hondacb350_t2311.html#2371</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Not sure how far you have got, can you start the bike?

Regarding the coils, first thing to check is do you get a spark at the plugs - with them removed from the cylinder head but held against the engine to earth? May be difficulty if you can use the kick or electric starter, so you need to get one or other sorted first.

I had a coil problem for a very long time. I eventually decided to swap the HT leads between cylinders (you also need to swap the leads that control when each coil fires). In doing so the lead on one side cracked. If it was not the problem before it was now. So I replaced both coils (hard to find, but CB500 twin ones worked). 

I now ride the bike most days :)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Oil Pump Screen Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350oilpumpscreen_t2082.html#2361</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Sorry to respond so late. I got away from the build for a while. Yes. It is a twin.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 Honda CB 350 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1969hondacb350_t2311.html#2311</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just had one given to me. It's my first bike and I know balls about motorcycles.

I'm learning as much as I can from the friends I can beg to help me out on weekends.

Anyone have any advice?

I know that it has a bad oil leak.

How can I test the coils to see if they work?

The kick start rarely catches, so I'm gonna focus on getting the elect start going first.

Where is a good place to get hooked up with parts? Its definitely missing the back blinkers, and will need new mufflers eventually.

Also need mirrors

I wanna get it running beautifully then worry about aesthetics.

Thanks for any help or advice you can give on getting my Murdercycle running! :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Specifications</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/respecifications_t1664.html#2151</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It would depend on your fueltank.
There were 3 different shapes and range from 3.5 to 4.2 gallons.
Octane requirement is 87.
The 350 twin is a sipper, if the carbs are adjusted right, you should get a minimum of 40-50 mpg.
Another tip,... change oil every 3000 mi because she doesn't have a filter, just a screen.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 69&apos; CL350 shifting problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cl350shiftingpro_t1750.html#2150</link>
	<description><![CDATA[First,... you don't have to be a mechanic to work on this bike.
You do need the works service manual.
The shiftforks are probably bent.
Seeing that you have to crack the case open, you might as well do a complete rebuild.
You will know the bike inside out after that and can diagnose anything that could go wrong.
These bikes are very rugged if taken care of properly.
As of parts,... you're good with CL/CB 350 '68 thru '74.
SL has some differences, but is very similar as well.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: The bike pops out of first gear. I got to take out the motor and split the case to fix?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethebikepopsoutoffi_t1826.html#2149</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This is a full transmission rebuild.
So be prepared to invest some time into this project.
Bearings, Shiftdrum, shiftforks, seals, clean, inspect and measure everything, I mean everything.
It's not a job to be afraid of, just need to be patient.
And honestly,... seeing that you have to break it down, might as well do a complete rebuild from the ground up.
It will save you from future problems.
So invest in some good micrometers, venier calipers etc.
And don't forget to get a works service manual.
After you're done, you'll know that bike inside out.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Best manual for rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebestmanualforrebui_t1970.html#2148</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Nothing beats the works service manual]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda cl350 starting problems.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondacl350starting_t2047.html#2147</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check your wiring.  There has to be a loose wire.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1973 CL 350 Scrambler Questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1973cl350scrambler_t2054.html#2146</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Rule #1 for any Motorcycle owner.
Service Manual.
Makes life so much easier.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Mods... New jet size?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350modsnewjetsiz_t2080.html#2145</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What is your Carb size?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Melted wire</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remeltedwire_t2124.html#2144</link>
	<description><![CDATA[That thick black wire is for the starter.  You should replace it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Dies with while after shifting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/redieswithwhileafter_t2141.html#2143</link>
	<description><![CDATA[NO, that is not normal.  Almost sounds like a clutch problem.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: The bike pops out of first gear. I got to take out the motor and split the case to fix?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethebikepopsoutoffi_t1826.html#2142</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi!
I am dealing with the same problem with a CB 360 that a friend of mine brought to me as it's popping out from first gear. I removed the lower crankcase and I saw immediately that at both shafts the pins are not standing out at all  from the case. First I thought that they are probably not the correct size but after I was unable to remove them,I soon came to the figure that they were the right size but the bearings were not installed correctly as they pushed them in by force so are probably stuck tight.( If it's possible) So that comes to the question: How did You get them out?
- They are too hard to drill.
- Welding something to it is too risky and dangerous.
- Put another pin somewhere else?

thanks
Janos 
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Dies with while after shifting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/dieswithwhileaftersh_t2141.html#2141</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey!

This is my first motorcycle, a 72 CB350. 
It starts, runs and idles fine on the center stand, but it feels like its not working properly when i actually ride it.  
As soon as i shift into first, the bike will die unless i give it some gas or hold in the clutch.  
The bike will also die if i use the rear brake.  I can only use the rear brake if i hold in the clutch.

Is this how the bike should work?
What should i do?

Thanks in advance!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: high revving in neutral and when stopped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehighrevvinginneutr_t2128.html#2138</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check your throttle cable. Sometimes the two cables coming out of the splitter section get pulled out of the black plastic case that houses the one into two cable section. They get stuck and hold the throttle open. If that's ok, make sure there is slack at the adjustments on the handlebar section of the throttle, and the two adjusters on the carbs. If they are too tight, the engine will rev. It is not common on these bikes, if you know what you're doing. Watch the throttle shafts on the carbs as you open then close the throttle to see if the shafts close all the way. Also, make sure they open simultaneously. Hope this helps. Bad diaphragms won't cause this problem.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t1768.html#2133</link>
	<description><![CDATA[try cyclepartsnation.com they have alot of NOS parts, their parts prices aren't bad but the shipping costs are very high. but when you gotta have ya gotta have it!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: high revving in neutral and when stopped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehighrevvinginneutr_t2128.html#2132</link>
	<description><![CDATA[also to mention I have a 72 also. cant seem to remember if i had the high reving problem with that one but i had problems! pulled and cleaned jets replaced those old O-rings on them still had problems I simply didn't get them clean enough one very small orafice on them stayed plugged, just missed it.. go fugure, made all the differenc once remedied, she runs perfectly now ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: high revving in neutral and when stopped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehighrevvinginneutr_t2128.html#2131</link>
	<description><![CDATA[5000rpm is excessive. your answer from mechanic didn't help, get a new mechanic. or find a service manual for your model. there adjustments that can be made by the turn of a screw. you just need to know which one and how much and when. a service manual will take you through this procedure. if that doesn't help then yes maybe your carbs need rebuilding. there are rubber diaphrams top side of carb, and O rings on the jets that degrade over time. again get a service manual theres much valuable info to be had, and gives a bit more confidence to work on your own bike when you can read and study your task before "goin' in" good luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Oil filter gasket</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350oilfiltergask_t2127.html#2130</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well after some searching, I found some Cb350 oil filter gaskets at:  

http://www.westernhillshondayamaha.com/   

They have a lot of old vintage Honda, and other bikes, hard to find parts.  Hope this helps someone else.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>high revving in neutral and when stopped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/highrevvinginneutral_t2128.html#2128</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Howdy.
Have a 72 cb350.
Just got back from my mechanic.
Am noticing now, that after about three minutes of riding, once I and up at a red light or somewhere Im stopped and in first, the engine revvs to about 5000 rpms uncontrollably. As well as in neutral. But not while riding. Only when stopped.
Asked my mechanic about it, said was common with old 350s. Something about old boots, creating a vacuum, sucking in a lot of air.

Please advise.
Would like to fix this asap.
Thanks!
-Brian]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 Oil filter gasket</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350oilfiltergasket_t2127.html#2127</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The small and thin little oil filter gasket is hard to find.  They don't come as part of a gasket kit.  Haven't seen any on ebay. I'm at the stage of my rebuild that I need one.  Does anyone know where I can get one?  Or has anyone been sucessful at making their own?  If so, what matial did you use?  Any help here would be greatly appreciated.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Melted wire</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/meltedwire_t2124.html#2124</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey, i just bought a 1972 CB350 yesterday.  I started it up this morning and noticed black tar underneath the engine.  It turns out that a thick black wire has partially melted and there seems to be some metal exposed.
Is this a big deal?  what should i do?
Thanks!
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2123</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Still waiting on my springs to arrive.......

Had to order 2 more.

Thanks to Royal Mail & An Post for losing the first ones.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: soon to be new honda owner - have some questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resoontobenewhondaow_t2049.html#2121</link>
	<description><![CDATA[    Totally agree with Chuck, and if this is going to be your main rider, try to find the most original, lowest miles one that you can find.
The least amount of hands it's been through, the better. My last one was a '72 CB350 in this kind of condition-----after freshing up the usual goodies---cables, hoses & such----ran like a watch. Good luck.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2120</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Janos,

In response to your query on jets. I am working on my right carb in preparation for the springs to arrive so I have had a chance to inspect.

The Main Primary Jet (MPJ) is #72
The Main Secondary jest (MSJ) is #105
The Idle Jet is #35

I was surprised at the size of the Main Primary Jet as the Honda Shop manual from Sep 1969 specifies (for the 250A carb) MPJ #55 & MSJ #110.
The 350A from the same manual is #60 & #115. However these are for the K0 and things would seem to have changed for the later carbs / K #. 

I have another "Shop Manual" presumably by Honda as it has Honda on the back. It’s undated but appears to be from the end of the series covering the CB250-350, CL250 350 and the SL350 as it mentions specs from K0 to K4 / K5 for the 350. What is bizarre though is it fails to specify the jet sizes for the 250 but does give some of the 350s!! Strange. 

The Haynes Manual from 1974 specifies 55/110/35 for the 250 and 60/115/38 for the 350 but fails to specify for which K or carb although I suspect it’s the 250A as they quote a float height of 21mm and they also match the 1969 manual figures.

This isn’t concrete proof that my jets are wrong or anything but I was initially surprised it was as big as #72. All my jets are marked with the distinctive Keihin fat K so I am happy they are genuine in so far as that goes.

Another manual extract I have but I don’t know from what goes into a lot of detail on 350 jetting but not much for the 250. It gives 68/95/35 for the 250 and 60/115/38 for the 350 but in a general non K or carb specific format.

Later in that manual it does specify 70/110/35 for the 3-B and 3-C carbs
70/105/35 for 3-D, 68/105/35 for the 722A and 726A. Not that tells me much in regard to the 250 but it does show an increased size in the MPJ over the earlier manuals.

Interestingly on this site (CMS) the Main Primary Jet available for my 725A (K4) carb range from a choice of 60,68,70&72 and for the Main Secondary Jet 98,100,105&110. 

For the 2-D (the correct carbs for my K2) its a similar story with MPJ options for 68,70 & 72 plus a 75 for Germany France and Spain. The MSJ options are 98,100,105&110

I suppose technically this does not absolutely prove anything beyond showing a range of jets but does tend to indicate more of flexibility and increase on the MPJ especially compared against the 55 & 110 specified as the default size for the K0 / 250A carb. It does strongly indicate the primary main size was increased for the K2 and K4 at least.

So having studied all this I'm not too perturbed by having #72 #105 on my carb. When and if the spring cures my main issue I will be bringing the bike to friend with an exhaust analyser just for kick to see what the content of the exhaust stream is to indicate good burning or not.

Regards,

Brendan.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2119</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos, I missed your previous post about your trial run on the bike. 
Fantastic!!! you must be over the moon to have a result.

I am looking forward to trying out when my springs arrive.

As for the 350.. I have a pair of 350 carbs somewhere and I was looking for them to day tocheck exactly what you mentioned as I am also curious about the 250 Vs 350 spring length. I could not find then as I moved house and everything is packed in boxes. I will look again over the week and if I find them I will check and get back.

I reckon if they were longer it would be maybe about ~14 mm. This is only a guess and is based on assuming the carb bodies and slides / diaphrams are the same (they sure look the same!) and if so the slide travel would be the same and also the same span of 20 Gr. i.e 250 is 30-50 350 40-60 (both 20 gr span) so that means the spring is the same spring rate so the only difference might be ~14 mm longer adding another 10gr to the preload but giving the same span i.e 20 gr (40-60). Just a guess. Lets see when we measure.



Brendan.


 ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2118</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos, Great news. This must be very encourageing for you.

My springs have not arrived yet. I have not looked at the jet sizes in a long time time but I think they are 55/110.

Yes I agree about the O rings in so far as it is mentioned a lot on the web as being a typical problem.

Brendan. 
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2117</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I had a few misfires during acceleretion,but the bike didn't run a several months ago maybe that's causing this.
But overall it is great!
Maybe I just need other jetting size.I am runinng on 105/68 now.
And You?
But remember: sealing the jets properly is still very important!
  
regards 
Janos]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2116</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brendan!
You are right the spring force should be linear increasing.
We shared alot of ideas about jets,camshafts,different carb types,air filters,float levels,and many more other things that You and myself tried to set,change, modify or replace parts, struggling to find the cause of why our(and maybe alot of others)  Honda CB250K is suffering from engine stalling and power loss at 5000-6000 midrange revs which drives us crazy. 
We finally came to discussing carb slide springs.
Well Brendan I think it worked for me!!!!!! :D 
Today I had some time to run over the carbs again and changed the springs from my streched ones(about 110 mm!!!) to the shorter 85mm.
I was more motivated by the weather getting pretty warm compared to  January.(12 Celsius!!!) It should be -12 now!!!!!
Took on a test ride......
It warmed up a bit,then twisted the throttle at 2nd....
YES! THAT'S IT! It is running like it should be! :shock: 
The bike ran like crazy man!
I can't even believe it!
What a great bike!
I was never thought that the springs are not the right ones.
Since they were about the same size as the 350,I thought that the short 85mm ones are for some other bike.
Now I'am curious if the 350 springsize is correct or not.
Do you have info of the 350 carb spring length?

I 'm exited to hear if You are having results also.

Janos]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2115</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Janos,

I used an online Spring Rate calculator that gives spring rate in N/M and you just covert that to gramms force /mm. The calculator had the spring steel type figure inbuilt and I don't know what that was so may not be an exact figure but should be close

The other main I/Ps are Wire Diameter, Coil Diameter & No of active coils (normally total -2). While length is in the calculation it makes no difference in theory but obviously between practical limits between the closed compression height ~ 17mm and the length of the wire.
When I fed in 85mm and 170mm I got the same figure for rate. Spring rate is not affected. However the pre-load is affected as I mentioned.

I could not say without proper equipment but in theory the spring rate is linear so no it should not mean more force per unit length but yes the force does increase as you compress but it should be linear @ 1.37 g/mm.

My springs are not here yet I was hoping this week. Its looking more like next week. I'll keep you posted.

Hope all the viewers are enjoying this. Don't be afraid to contribute your little bit now!

Regards Brendan.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2114</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How did You get to the 1.37g/mm spring rate?
Simply dividing the spring force with the length?
Average?
When are You getting Your new springs?
My 250 has streched springs as your bike has but not as long.
 The springs in my 350 are 100mm long so this whole thing makes sense.
This weekend I wil checkout and examine or change the springs on the 250 also.
I can't wait!

Greets
Janos]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2113</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brendan!
Sorry, I am posting my reply on the forum instead of in email, but I want to share any ideas so anyone else could get as much info as possible. Especially carbs as a topic thats never inexhaustible.

Brendan YOU are RIGHT!
I am sure that the 30-50 gr is the force of the preloaded and loaded spring.It works!
I've tried a little experimenting with the spring that is abot 85mm long and has 25 coils.
I took the top cap off and the spring out. Then put the  carburetor on the scale. After resetting the scale I then pushed the spring in as much as the preload should be.(I measured about 11mm before)Yes only 11 mm because in case of a 85mm spring,it stands out about 30mm when the cap is off. The cap is 19mm high (inside.This is how I got the 11mm.
It wassn't really exact test but the scale showd about 25g.
This includes the weight of the spring(4-5g)
Then took out the spring a put it on the scale and pushed it to 22mm more,thats 31mm with preload. The result was about 54g.
I repeat this was not an exact test but might have proof on the spring rate that Honda uses, and that You have realized.
This could mean that the spring force is not directly proportional with the spring length,so the more the spring gets pressed together the more force is needed.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2112</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Janos, After some deliberation I think I have worked out what the 30-50 Gr signifies. I think is the grammes force the spring exerts between the bottom and top of slide movement. It makes sense.

So when fitting the correct spring the preload on the slide is 30 grammes (I don't know if this includes the natural weight of the spring or not) and when the slide is fully up at full throttle the spring exertion is 50gr. The slide can physically move about 20-22 mm when the top cap is on but I doubt it goes all that way up into the top of the carb. The spring rate is roughly 1.37 g/mm so a 30gr preload equates to about 22mm compression of the spring when fitting. I can check this when I get a correct 85 mm spring.
Using the same figures to get to a 50 Gr load would equate to a 14.6 mm slide travel. Of cousre there is nothing stopping the slide going a little beyind the 50Gr. To get more exacting figures I would need to know exactly what steel and thus modulus of elasticity the spring material has but I bet thats it. Its the best home for the 30-50 gr figure for me.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2111</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos I'm not exactly sure what you asked me there but let me reply.

I use the term "rating" loosely when referring to the gr figures I gave for 2 reasons. 

One is that the gr rating still seems to be used on other modern carbs Carb springs if you look up the www. However they are usually given as a single figure e.g. 115 or 95 not as a range like 30-50 (30 "dash" 50) as given in the Haynes manual or 30~50 (30 "Tilde" 50) as given in the Honda manual. This would seem odd to allow a variance of 20 on something only 30 in magnitude. Makes no sense at all!!?? That's assuming of course the 30-50 does indeed signify an allowable range from 30 to 50 whatsits..

Secondly gr, even if it was grammes is meaningless in formal SI units which ought to be in Neuton meters N/M, N/mm or a derivation of same but not just grammes.

I assume in the carburretor world its a well used and understood shorthand unit of measurement relating to carb springs but for the life of me I cant find any solid reference on the web as to what engineering units it can be translated into and what it really means. As you said is it just the weight of the whole assembly or what? 

I doubt that though. I think its some kind of spring rate (strength) related figure. I can't bet the house on this of course and to be honest I'm not going to get too excited about it. I am going to stick in the new springs when they arrive and see how it goes. 

Its like those guys who go fiddling with jets and drilling them out and pissing about with the springs cutting bits off etc. You might as well go whipping youself around the garden if your into that sort of torture]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2110</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brendan!
Interesting infos and all about carb springs! Congrats, You really got in to this seriously!
 :D 
You mean weight by rated?
It should be grams but 30-50 is too much for only spring it might be the whole slidewith rubber, needle and spring, but still too big difference between 30 and 50.
I did not look at the 725A carbs on my 250 but on my spare carbs(Y2C)
they weigh 36g each. The 85mm spring is about 4-5 g alone.
I measured it with a digital kitchen scale.
I will keep You (and everyone else on the forum)updated as I have something.
Did You notice that this forum thread has the most replies and it's nearly the most viewed one?
Ill send You my email address.
greets
Janos

 ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb 350 k service manuals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350kservicemanuals_t2109.html#2109</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ if anyone needs a service manual in pdf form please contact me here with your e-mail address     micahhulett@yahoo.com


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2108</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos,
I don't know if there is a length difference between the 250 and 350 springs as I don't have any 350 springs. However I am pretty confident there is some difference possibly in spring rate. According to the Honda and the Haynes manual the 250 spring is rated at 30-50g and the 40-60 g (Gr in the Honda manual).

I have not got the bottom of what the "g" / "gr" is (possibly gram) but in any case assuming a greater number means a greater spring rate it would suggest that the 350 had a different / possibly stronger spring. Can anyone advise (please be sure) what gr means exactly.

I got the spring length of 82mm from a CB250 owner with 725-A carbs and 85 mm one from a supplier with a new one on the shelf against the part number for the CB250 K4 carb which is a Keihin 725-A. Hence my figure of 85mm.

For reference my springs are 0.7mmm exactly (micrometer) in wire diameter, about 19-20mm in spring diameter and 25 coils (counting all coils even the non acting ones). While my bike is a K2 it has 725-A carbs (K4). Reminder.. CB250 > 250A, CB250 K2+3 > 2D, CB250 K4 > 725A. 

The part number for the spring which includes the slide and diaphragm is more or less the same across the whole K series with exceptions for the early K0 and some continental K2 (see below)

The part number the K0 appears to have 3 different part numbers over a range of serial numbers so I'm guessing some change took place during this time. 16022286004 up to Serial#: 1004622, 16022286014 From Serial#: 1004623 up to Serial#: 1030170 & 16022286024 From Serial#: 1030171

For the K2, K3, K4 the part # is 16022286024 with a variant part no # 16022287014 for France and Germany. (Source for above is from microfiche online)

I will be interested to hear if you have more information. Regards, Brendan. 

P.S. Please email me at count1@eircom.net with your email address.
 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2107</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brendan!
You got me interested about spring lengths and effect on performance.
My gosh I never cared about the springs I only checked if they were the same length.
170mm!!! is way too long.
I didn't have time yet to check what does the bike have inside, but I am sure they are all much longer then 85mm. I think they were between 100-110mm.But!
I have a few spare springs in a box and one of these is shorter then the others(some of them are WAY streched). 
Exatly 85mm.....
Then I took the carbs marked as Y2C and measured their springs. Yes 85 also.!
I forgot to mension that I've tried these carbs on but they didn't work out either and were missing choke flaps.
As You mentioned, at high speed it's great but not pleasent.
So You are on a good lead so keep going!
The next thing is for me to check the carbs  springs on the bike.
Altough That they are surely longer then 85mm I don't think they were streched. The 350 has longer springs but I have to checked that also.
Is it possible that 250 and 350 has different carb spring ?
Where did You get the info about the springs?

Sadly, it is impossible for me to test the bike because of the weather around here, but You never can tell what Global Warming brings to winter.
regards

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2104</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos, I think I am on to something. I finally got about to concentrating on the carb slide springs. They look OK but sometime in their life somebody took them out and stretched them to twice their proper length. They are 170mm but should be 85mm. As I never touched the springs I had no reason to suspect and the manual or WWW does not mention spring length anywhere. I now know they are ~85 mm.
They are the correct springs in terms of no of coils and wire size (0.7mm) and so on but the stetching would do two things. It increases the spring rate slightly but not as much as you would imagine (i've worked out the figures ~17N/M Vs ~15N/M) due to the coil diameter shrinking slightly. Its difficult to measure or work out the exact dia shrinkage!!
Number two and of more concern is that it would make the spring prone to bellying out on one side and jamming against the inside of the slide. I don't think that would help. While this must be a signifiacnt find I won't know for sure until I get the replacement springs but I am very optimistic this will have a big impact. I have the springs sourced and they are on the way. I will keep you posted as to how it works out.
Brendan :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2103</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos, I will reply in more detail later but quickly yes the choke linkage is OK. The bike will run fine if you really accelerate fast and stay at top RPMs (9K )  but this is not a pleasant way to drive an old bike. 

However it got me thinking on the slide springs as they might be too strong or sticking unless you open up the throttle quickly. It might explain if the right side was sticking or too strong as it ought to cause it to run rich as it would not be truly CV then as the diaphram and spring rate would not be matched properly.

Since I posted I have had 2 good sources that advise me the 725A springs should be 82mm in one case and 85mm the other person. OK so 82 to 85 should be OK (in the relaxed state). 

I need to take off my carbs and check my ones. Also I need to make sure they are not heavier or adjusted springs off a 350 or anything as I understand a lot of people fooled about with springs to try and get the bikes to run faster / better.

It still does not really explain the right side issue on its own as I was sure both springs were the same length when I put the carbs together but I just want to rule this out anyway. There is also a lot of mentions of O rings leaking on forums so just for extra insurance I'm going to replace the O rings (again!) Keep you posted.

Brendan.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2102</link>
	<description><![CDATA[
You wrote before that some camshaft changes were made from Serial#: CB250E-3015230 
I am sure that they had one before also  after the k0 model.
And one more: In Europe especially in Germany they used a camshaft to tame down the power from 30 to 27 horsepower because of tax laws but don't know exactly. I have one of these camshafts that came with a spare engine I got. I also have the official document regarding the change. This camshaft is recognizable from having the mark .051 number
at the ignition side of the shaft facing outside below the advancer.
wich carb belongs to this camshaft I don't know.
I saw You starting a new topic about spring length.
Thats an important question also.
That it for now, I will post my any new ideas if I have any.
I thought I should get an email if I get a reply but I was Wrong
regards
Janos
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2101</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Brendan!
So if you've checked and went through everything don't forget to adjust the valve clearence also but it should not make the right side run rich, and I surely know that after these long year struggles You will not make mistakes as like not connecting the two carb choke linkage together so the left carb runs well without choke and the right one is on.
Swapping the carbs is a great idea but hard to test, because the best test is when you ride. :D 
Are you having the problem with stock air filters on?
Are you testing it when its on?
Because I only have problems with the air filters on.Without it runs great.My friend told me to use it without filters but NO WAY!
I hope You are having success this time.
I haven't been riding the 250 since last fall but last time I cleaned those y2c type carbs and put them on for a try but stil not working perfect. It only ran well a high rpms.
As I wrote before when my cb250 was running the best, it still was not perfect and a bit weak at 5000-6000,and has a loud sharp intake noise which is unusual comparing to the cb350.
Reading your post about carbs and camshafts got me interested.
Maybe our bikes carbs are  tuned for a different camshaft type?
Which carb for which shaft?
I got a book for Xmas called  Classic Honda Motorcycles and this mentions the following for CB250-350:"The camshafts had alot of overlap on the first models and Honda tamed them down a little by trimming 10 degrees off the overlap. This change required some carburetion changes, which cover most of the midrange and high speed settings, so one must be selective if changing carburetors from one series to another"

to be continued..

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2100</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Janos,

Sorry I only came across your last few messages today. I only came on the post again by accident as I was searching the net for more information. I haven?t been at the bike since the Summer. I thought the forum emails members when replies are posted? Anyhow getting back to the issue... Over the summer I set the float height to what I believe to be the correct height and checked everything again. Using the service kits I bought I replaced some of the jet components (as the old ones in some cases looked better machined). I also replaced all rubber O rings by taking the ones off the new jets. The left cylinder is perfect now with plug colour really as you would expect. The right cylinder is still running poorly and on the face of it seems to be running very rich. It?s still a mystery. Just in case I have totally gone over the ignition system and have checked and double checked everything as per the service manual. I fitted new Honda genuine points and a new condenser and also strobed against the flywheel. 

The next thing I want to try is to run it with the carbs swapped over. I know they won't fit exactly regarding the linkages but I can throttle by hand just to do a quick check to make absolutely sure the problem switches to the left cylinder before spending any more time on the carbs. 

You can tell immediately as the right side runs like the choke is stuck on. It misses a lot at mid range revs and smells of unburnt fuel. You can feel the cylinder missing with your hand at the end of the muffler.  I have also since got a very good pair of 3D carbs which I might try on the right side only just to see if it has any effect.

I hope you have had some success yourself?

Regards,

Brendan.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: The bike pops out of first gear. I got to take out the motor and split the case to fix?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethebikepopsoutoffi_t1826.html#2099</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You won't have to pull the head and cylinder to split the case, you'll have to take off the side covers and some of the parts, ( stator, clutch, oil pump, etc). The jumping out of first gear could possibly be, and most likely is, that the engine has been apart before, and the transmission end bearing that has the locating pin was incorrectly installed. This pushes the pin through the case, and the bearing slips to the outside, allowing the engagement dogs on first gear to slip also. I have found this on 2 engines, and have seen one with a broken tooth on first gear. I have worked on these bikes for about 25 years, and have done just about everything that can be done to them. Hope this helps.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 runs hot!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350runshot_t2013.html#2098</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check the slides in your carburetors. They sometimes get gummed up and stick. I clean mine with fine grade steel wool. I also stretch the return spring to about 4.125 in. in length. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: workshop manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reworkshopmanual_t2091.html#2095</link>
	<description><![CDATA[we la ciao, thank you. hondaitalia gave me the workshop manual.
 :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/manual_t2094.html#2094</link>
	<description><![CDATA[buenas noches para todos soy de puerto madryn chubut argentina tengo una motoneta o scuter NSU PRIMA MODELO 1964 CILINDRADA 150 CENTIMETROS CUBICOS Y NECESITO CONSEGUIR EL MANUAL INSTRUCTIVO SOBRE LA MOTO si alguien puede ayudarme sobre el tema estare muy agradecido.un abrazo anibal]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: workshop manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reworkshopmanual_t2091.html#2093</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Paolo,

Well, these aren't exactly workshop manuals, but perhaps these  partsfiches can help you out ?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil Leak Between head and Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilleakbetweenhead_t1537.html#2092</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hope you guys were successfull with your head gaskets.  I'm getting ready to replace the head gasket on my 72 cb350.  Any advice?

I blew the head gasket when I wasn't keeping up with an oil leak that I was monitoring and ran it out of oil. :oops: Obviously it was leaking faster than I thought.  Darn thing froze for about 20 minutes.  After standing on the kick starter and jumping up and down it finally freed up.  I put some oil in it and drove it home.  On every revolution oil would spurt out the side of the engine between the head and cylinder.  Oil was also running down the side from behind the points housing.  

What kind of trouble have I gotten myself into?  I've messed with all of the stuff on the outside, but have never been inside the engine.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>workshop manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/workshopmanual_t2091.html#2091</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi, tell me where to download the workshop manual cb 350k4?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Oil Pump Screen Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350oilpumpscreen_t2082.html#2090</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi, is a cb 350 twin??
paolo]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2083</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I wrote a post a few days ago and it never appear.

So it's been a long time since the last reply but in April I didn't see Your last  post just the first two lines,still don't know why and I thought that this thread is over.
What happened???????????
Anyways I still want to continue discussing this subject because I still didn't solve the carb problem completely.
The carb info last posted is great, but I have some more thoughs to add.
There should be two more carburetor types for 250.
My 250 had 725A type on.
Later got a pair of 725B on ebay that was also sold as for the cb250.
It didn't solve the problem no matter which one was put on it.
I also bought a box of stripped and dirty carbs and carb parts(about 5)
containing 725A and 725B-s. But there were a pair of carbs marked as Y2C type which are identical (seem to be from outside)to the others I have seen before but they have smaller air screws.
Interesting, considering that the carb kits that I bought and are for CB250k4 came with that smaller type of air screw.
I didn't try these carbs yet since they need cleaning and are missing choke flaps.
One more:
All of the carbs I have and had before for 250 or 350 were completely looked the same an were same sizes, I know that does not mean that they work the same way.
They have differences in air holes though that are located at the throttle air valve. Some of them have 2 holes and some types have 3.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB 350 Oil Pump Screen Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350oilpumpscreenre_t2082.html#2082</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Everyone - On a CB350 how do you get the oil pump screen out for cleaning? Do you just loosen the bolts or does the pump actually have to come out? Thanks.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB 350 Mods... New jet size?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350modsnewjetsize_t2080.html#2080</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I gave a 72 Cb 350, fresh top end .30 over new pistons and rings. I have the uni air filters and 12 in. shorty glasspack mufflers. I know it needs to be jetted. 

What size for the Main? 
What size for the secondary? 

Also any tips on removing the idle jet for cleaning?

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2078</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am SO mad because when the last time I looked at this thread,the last post seemed like it was just the first two lines appearing on my computer, and after checking it for about 4 weeks (until May) I thought this thread has ended and I forgot about it until now.
I am so surprised that You posted so much info and I didn't see it!!!!!!
So it was not on purpose,and I am willing to continue this discussion about our carb problems.
Since I have other bikes besides the CB250 I haven't rode it a while ago but one thing I got to is for sure:
Sealing the jets properly is very important as well as the float height.
It is intertesting info that You found about carb types,some of them I heard of some of them I had my own and some I had no idea that there was any.
I will continue this post tomorrow as I check out the bike and know where I was exactly with the carb settings and jet sizes.
I want to share my infos about camshafts also.
Hope You guys still there...... 


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: OK, I&apos;m the new guy</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reok imthenewguy_t2067.html#2074</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi AD,

Good luck with your new project ( and the free cottage cheese ) :wink: 
For used parts, follow the advise from the previous poster. If you want the OEM stuff, then I'd recommend CMS, they have plenty for the scrambler:  

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: OK, I&apos;m the new guy</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reok imthenewguy_t2067.html#2073</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Enjoy the project, then enjoy the ride...  Lots of parts on EBAY.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: soon to be new honda owner - have some questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resoontobenewhondaow_t2049.html#2072</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The CB350 is an outstanding motorcycle and parts are readilly available.  If you think you can buy one and just start riding is probably not logical.  These bikes are 40 years old, and even if well maintained, probably have some issues.  Would not suggest you purchase and start out on a coast to coast trip.  Not trying to discourage you - quite the opposite.  I am having a ball with mine, but have not gone much more than 25 miles from home in the 3 weeks I have had it back on the road.

Regarding the paint job, that is another thing.  If you are buying to ride, and don't care about the resale value, do what you want with it.  Any repaint will destroy the resale value, but if you are buying for personal enjoyment, do your thing and make it truly your bike.

If you like black, you might want to look for a 1967 Honda 450 Black Bomber...  Really great bikes, but never got real popular for whatever reason...

In any event, enjoy the ride...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>OK, I&apos;m the new guy</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/ok imthenewguy_t2067.html#2067</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all,

  After many years of badgering a local old timer about his 1970 CL-350 Scrambler that was just sitting in his airport hangar gathering rust and turning what remaining fuel in the tank to a jell the consistency of cottage cheese, I finally convinced him to sell me the bike.

  He had said it was run a few times a year, but after looking at the overall condition, now that it's in my garage, I'd have to say this bike has not run in about 8 years.

  So, electrically it's in pretty good condition.  It's just the entire fuel system that I'm currently working on so that's the current plan of attack.

  Cosmetically it's in reasonably good shape and with any luck and picking up some parts I should have it running under its own power in a month, I hope.

  Anyway, I'm the new guy and it's good to find a place for us people who are trying to keep "our" history riding along.

  My daily rider is a BMW R1200RT.  My dirt bike is a Suzuki 350DR.  And now my "project" is this CL-350.

  AD]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 CL 350 Scrambler Questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1973cl350scramblerqu_t2054.html#2054</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone. Upfront appreciation and thanks for anyone that can help me out with a couple of questions that have come along since I started maintenance and upgrades to the scrambler. I may not have all the correct technical terms to describe the parts, but I am going to try hard to describe it... Here they are:

1) @ idle, what position (angle) should the moving timing indicator be at?

2) Also, I know there are 2 fixed indicators that the moving timing indicator should eventually reach at a certain RPM.. at what RPM should it be in-between these 2 fixed indicators?

3) I understand that one should use ATF for fork oil.. do most people still use ATF? Any specific type I should use? Are there other fork oils at a certain weight that can be used?

4) I am having problems using fuel filters in that their will be a bubble caught between the fuel filter and carb which causes gas NOT to flow to the carb.... bypass the filter and the gas flows just fine... any idea why?

5) What are the stock sizes of the front and rear sprockets?

6) Are there aftermarket front shocks that anyone recommends?

7) I recently installed rear 13" NOS Red Wing shocks. Except now i cant put on the chain guard.. has anyone else had this problem? any solutions?

Cool Are there any aftermarket bash plates for the scrambler? or has anyone every fabricated one? I like the look...

I am sure i missed a question there, but its a good start.. i appreciate any help.. winter is arriving so I plan to do some work while its in the garage.

Thanks!
Mark
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>soon to be new honda owner - have some questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/soontobenewhondaowne_t2049.html#2049</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey guys,

i'm getting ready to buy an early 70's honda but still doing some research.  would really appreciate any help you can give me..


my first (possibly lame) question is:  how bad would it be to paint a 350 all black?  i know they don't really come in black in early 70's.  is it considered uncool to do so?  i just really like black


also, do you think a cb350 is a good "starter bike" ?  i drove a vespa in college so i'm familiar with 2 wheel transpo, but never had a motorcycle.


what i'd really like is an early 70's 350, possibly with cafe bars...   i'm thinking of buying whatever i find that's a good bike and painting..

any thoughts or suggestions appreciated. 
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda cl350 starting problems.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hondacl350startingpr_t2047.html#2047</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So i have a honda cl350 that was running fine until i decided to remove the battery.

When i reconnected everything....it idles kind of low at first and then it gives me brief power for about 100 feet before it dies. I have hooked it up to a trickle charger and it will run a little better but still cant be taken anywhere.

A couple things I noticed:

1) There are three connections to the positive terminal. Is there a specific order these should be in?

2)The breather tube is pretty loosly on....how does this affect how it runs?

I have literally been sitting outside trying to figure this out forever.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;73 CL350 K5 Passenger Grab Rail</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73cl350k5passengergr_t2046.html#2046</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a (U.S) '73 CL35, has all the identifiers of a K5 (Hawaiian Blue, tilted instruments, sidecover emblems black on white, 500XXXXXX serial) but no chrome passenger grip pipe.  (Interestingly, the original title showed it listed as a K4)

I know the history of this bike since nearly new and the 37 year owner confirms no chrome passenger grip pipe.  It has the '72 and earlier black rear turn signal mount ears that bolt to the frame.  This makes it impossible to mount the chrome passenger grip pipe since it will rub on the turn signal.  I believe these mounts to be the original.  The rear turn signal mounts were moved to the chrome passenger grab rail on the '73's with this change.

Questions:  Did all K5's get the chrome passenger grip pipe(I've seen a few that didn't)? Could this bike have been a 'transition' K4, or a K5 that missed a phase-in of this addition?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350- No compression Left Side</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350-nocompre_t1965.html#2045</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Oh my god!  Dont plan a major engine rebuild!  Its in thop end as the first reply specifies.  Its no doubt a piston or burnt/stuck valve. easy fix - learn to do it your self!  Get a Chiltons manual and take it apart and learn here at the forum.  :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t1952.html#2044</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ryan, Ive worked with these bikes for 35 years. When you say new carbs, what do you mean? different used carbs, or really clean good new carbs?  You problem does sound like a carb problem to me. These bikes are very sensitive to that, and you can do everything new except carbs, and still have a problem. If you changed carbs, and now the problem has moved to the opposite side, I m betting on carb problems. tell me what condition these carbs are in and we will go from there. And I do agree, 12 volts to the coil is all you need.  Think about it for a minute, the engine needs nothing but good fuel and spark to run. Now they must be supplied correctly and at the right time, but the spark comes from the coil. It will run all day with 12 volts positive to the coil and the negative side to the motor. So if timing is right, and 12 volts is supplied, your problem is fuel. A cold cylinder does not always mean no spark, no explosion. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: bike races at idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebikeracesatidle_t1937.html#2043</link>
	<description><![CDATA[When the condition happens, what position are the carb slides in?  The diaphram lifts the slide valves. are they closed or open - opening them increases idle.  Check their position out when the engine is idleing high first. That will tell you something. If they are not bottomed out at idle, thats the problem. Check the cables for binding, and check the slide function. Do they seat at all? Dirty carbs, and dirty jets dont cause a bike to rev high. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Electrical</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectrical_t1886.html#2042</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The kill switch is a single wire control that grounds out the coil function. Are you getting spark at the plugs?  If so it is not the kill switch. If you are not getting spark at the plugs and the kill switch is suspected, remove the handlebar control casing from the handlebar momentarily. This eliminates the possibility of the kill switch grounding. If the switch is bad you can just disconnect that wire from the kill switch button.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1972 cl350 scrambler jetting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1972cl350scrambler_t1977.html#2041</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yes, you may find a lean condition, I suspect that you will need slightly larger mains. Are you changing the exhaust, are you porting the heads?  If so definetly if you eliminate some back pressure in the exhaust you will need a rejet. Generally they will run ok, but upon deceleration the machine will backfire. That can be cured with a slight opening of the main jets.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Won&apos;t idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewontidle_t2029.html#2040</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What condition are you carbs in?  Bikes that sit alot get a bad condition in the carbs that cause this problem due to a fungus. Does the bike idle ok with the choke on?  Will it keep running with the choke on?  If so - you need a carb cleaning and rebuild. And oh yes, if thats it, after cleaning use a good fuel conditioner to help keep this from happening again.  Also - the point gap as mentioned will cause this.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 runs hot!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350runshot_t2013.html#2039</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Alex, remember also, a lean condition causes heat!  Hesitation at high rpm can mean too lean.  Is the float setting ok?  Warm weather can cause problems like this. Are your plugs really clean?  if so, the bike may be too lean. Pull on the choke a bit at the moment of sputter. Just a bit.  Does that improve the condition?  If so - Look at float levels and main jet cleanliness.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CB350 stops running</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cb350stopsrunn_t1898.html#2038</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Mike, are you sure it is loading up?  if the plugs are clean, I tend to think the problem is the opposite, too lean for high speed.  Are the carbs original?  Did you change anything on the exhaust?  When it starts to struggle, pull the choke on just ever so slightly, and then a bit more. Does that make it worse or better?  Better means fuel starvation, that means checking your main jets, and float setting. The float may be a bit too low, making the machine use a bit more fuel than the float valves are giving you at high speed. If the jets are clean and are original, I bet the floats need to be changed just a tad to allow more fuel at high speed. That choke test will give you the answer.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Need a few pointers</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reneedafewpointers_t1868.html#2037</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Mike, engines are the same - the gasket kits are interchangable. The cl simply has no starter and the sprokets are different. The Cb has a starter ( which can be added to a cl)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 SL350 Clutch adjustment</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970sl350clutchadj_t1964.html#2036</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Steve, I mentioned this in another post - is the ball still in the seat of the sidecover lever?  there is a ball bearing (one ball) in the seat of the lever where the end of the clutch pushrod goes. Many times in cable replacements, the ball falls out unknowingly, making it impossible to adjust the clutch. Also, did you make certain that the disks went back in the clutch pack properly? and was everything good and clean?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: clutch wont engage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reclutchwontengage_t1866.html#2035</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Josh, did the ball fall out of the clutch engage lever when you installed the new cable?  there is a ball on the lever between the lever seat and the clutch pushrod. Without it you cant get the clutch to engage. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda cl350 with stuck motor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondacl350withstuc_t1999.html#2034</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Jose, there are many ways to unstick pistons, depends on the amount of rust or corrosion. How long the motor sat etc. Many times, unfortunately, the pistons must be sacrificed. This method is to use a 5 lb hammer and beat the pistons out of the cylinders. 
To soak them, pb blaster and heat is good, also automatic transmission fluid poured in the cylinders, heated and left for several days helps. There are many combinations, but generally most dont work. I have taken off the head and camcase, and used a dremel tool to cut the pistons away from the wrist pins. This does allow shavings to go in the case, meaning a complete teardown, but at this point, Im sure thats what you will do. you can then pull the cylinders and get the rest of the mess out of them. This method ruins the pistons but causes no damage to the  rods - good luck and alot of elbow grease! ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>clutch ball</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/clutchball_t2033.html#2033</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Josh is the ball bearing in the end of the clutch engage lever in the side cover?  The ball goes in the lever hole that the engage shaft fits in.  without it,  the clutch does not engage. Sometimes in the cable change the ball falls out.  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB350 twin cylinder rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350twincylinde_t2026.html#2032</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I can tell you this much - I rebuilt a 1972 cb350 engine. The cam chain is not broken and does not have a master link. The cam is removed from the cam case. Both ends are removed (breaker point housing and Speedometer gear housing). Then be very careful and remove the cam gear, two 10 mm bolts do the job, but one is marked differently than the other, (9) and they are not interchangable.  The gear must go back on the cam exactly in the position that it was removed to assure proper timing.  The cam is withdrawn out the speedo gear side. As for the gasket set, see Z1 enterprises at www.z1enterprises.com - their sets are fabulous - about $30.00  How are your carbs?  You can get new Mikunis for it for about 450.00 for the full set - ready to go. Your old carbs no doubt have a diaphram, and they are generally bad, and can be replaced, but the cost is horrible. New diaohrams are no longer available.   Your book will be very helpful with the cam chain problem, but again, dont break a link, the idea is to remove the cam.   :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Won&apos;t idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewontidle_t2029.html#2031</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Is your battery at full charge?  my cb350 runs beautifully if the battery is fully charged but when the battery gets low i start having the same problems.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Won&apos;t idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewontidle_t2029.html#2030</link>
	<description><![CDATA[oh yeah, new points and condenser too]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Won&apos;t idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/wontidle_t2029.html#2029</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My wife has a 71 CB350.  She was just running last week.  We went out today for a ride and it'll start up.  But whenever we try to give her gas she dies, she won't  idle for more than 5 seconds and when I put her into gear she dies.  I check the plugs and they seem fine.  Any idea's or suggestions?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#2028</link>
	<description><![CDATA[On the topic of the carb nomenclature, perhaps the 722 & 725 refer to cubic liters of flow per minute, as many brand of auto carbs are listed.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t1768.html#2027</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I found some NOS ones that cost me $370 american so if you can find used carbs try that.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 CB350 twin cylinder rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cb350twincylinderr_t2026.html#2026</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1971 CB350 twin cylinder, I got it two years ago and have been just riding it around town sine at or below 60mph. The other day I got excited and went down the interstateat 70 mph for about 15 minutes and the left cylinder lost power and the bike started smoking really bad from the valve cover. The left cylinder altready smoked a little before so I tink Ijust need to hone it and replace the rings and since Iam in there then lap the valves and replace the valve guides.
 I pulled the moor yersterday and got the valve cover off and could not figure out how to get the cam chain off to remove the head, I dont have a manual by the way. I just ordred a shop manal but may not be here for a couple weeks. So until then I would like to get the engine apart and get my parts on order to be ready when the manual arrives. What I need to know is:
 1) How to remove the cam chain
 2) What type of rings to use
 3) What brand of gaskets to buy, I want it done right the first time
 4)I have heard conflicting tales on what type of cam chain tensioner to use, so what type should i get
 5)any tips for better performance while i have it apart

Thanx,
Spencer]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cl350 runs hot!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cl350runshot_t2013.html#2013</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My cl350 has been running fine until recently. It has hesitation at about 5000-5500 rpm. I can feather thru this sputter, but it seems to get worse as the bike gets hotter. And is it getting hot! My main suspect right now is the timing, but would love some other suggestions. Maybe it is too hot outside and I need to run hot plugs (running br8es). anyone?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 SL350 KICKSTART JAMMED PLEASE HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72sl350kickstartja_t1646.html#2008</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My kickstarter wont disengage all the way and it sounds like when you push down on it slightly whie the engine is running , ant ideas? :?: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil Leak I cant figure out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilleakicantfigure_t1721.html#2007</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Could it be your cam seal?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t1952.html#2006</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Bad ground. Run a jumper wire from the battery - to a screw on the  coil bracket. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t1952.html#2004</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,thanks for all your imput....but the bike still wont run. Tom, we thought to that it was a carb problem to. So i went and bought to different carbs and swapped carbs. Now the right side is firing but the left side(was the side that fired befor the carb swap) is dead and firing cold. ???? Im completey baffeled. This is what ive done to the bike: new plugs,new carbs,new points,adjusted the cam chain ten.,new condenser,its got good spark witch tells me that the coils are good. I can only get one side to fire at once. Help!!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1971 CB 350 Starter clutch bad?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1971cb350starterclut_t2000.html#2000</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all, newbe here. I have a 71 CB 350, kicks free then binks up, CAN NOT kick, so put in 2nd gear rock engine then will kick again ALSO strter spins free and does NOT engage engine!

Please any help here?
Thanks!
john]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda cl350 with stuck motor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hondacl350withstuckm_t1999.html#1999</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Greetings to all, This is my first time posting. I own several italian bikes and one honda motorcycle/ I purchased this bike as is with stuck motor. The motor does not turn over, what kind of suggestions can I get from you guys in regards to loosening up the engine? Any advice would be welcomed. Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Converting &apos;69 CB350 to disk brakes</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reconverting69cb350t_t1925.html#1996</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Fitting old period Honda disc brake is a backward step. Have the drums refurbished and relined with modern linings and they will work better than period discs. SRM Engineering in the U.K can do this work, but I guess there may be American companies also.
  The originality and classic value is also destroyed with such a conversion.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: jet size </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rejetsize_t1936.html#1995</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How does it run with the 105 jets? If O.K why change? If not then you can get the jets from CMSNL I believe]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: bike races at idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebikeracesatidle_t1937.html#1994</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If loosening the idle screws does not work, then have the carbs sonically cleaned and refurbished. It is expensive but you get back affectively brand new carbs, both in function and appearance. Phil Denton Engineering can do this for you]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 SL 350 ko   exhaust assembly question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970sl350koexhaust_t1938.html#1993</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The collar goes between header and muffler over header, inside muffler. The clamp goes on the outside of the muffler........]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 19 inch wheel on 1970 CB350???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re19inchwheelon1970c_t1939.html#1992</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It will probably catch on the front fender and will look a little odd as the radius of the fender is matched to an 18" wheel. Also the speedo will be incorrect]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Gas cap troubles HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/regascaptroubleshelp_t1940.html#1991</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Drill a very small hole in the cap, all the way through, about 1 or 2mm. This will cure the problem........it is cheaper than buying a new cap which is your only alternative]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CB350 Swingarm Collars Needed</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cb350swingarmc_t1948.html#1990</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Phil Denton Engineering in the U.K cam make these collars for you in stainless steel]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Best manual for rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebestmanualforrebui_t1970.html#1989</link>
	<description><![CDATA[In the U.K we have Haines manuals, but the Clymer are pretty good to]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t1952.html#1988</link>
	<description><![CDATA[One sure fire cure to ignition problems is to fit a www.electrexworld.co.uk ignition system. they do racing and road and work perfectly]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Best manual for rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebestmanualforrebui_t1970.html#1987</link>
	<description><![CDATA[In the U.K we have Haines manuals, but the Clymer are pretty good to]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fuel lines</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refuellines_t1865.html#1986</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi You should have the carbs sonically cleaned. 
In the U.K a company called Phil Denton Engineering can do this for you and at the same time return the carbs to brand new appearance and operation. If you still have a problem after that then the tank is not venting correctly.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350- No compression Left Side</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350-nocompre_t1965.html#1985</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi 
  First of all never scrap a CL350 1970 model. These change hands in good condition for well over �3000.00 in the U.K! They are very desirable classic Honda's. You do need however a total engine re-build as you have suffered a major failure. In the U.K Phil Denton Engineering is the specialist that can do this, and in the USA you may like to talk to Terry Naughtin on 630 655 5518 he is in Ilinois. If he will not rebuild the engine he may know somebody who will? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350- No compression Left Side</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350-nocompre_t1965.html#1984</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Wes,
A couple of quick checks are easy to perform. First, take the valve cover adjusting covers off the offending side, and make sure the valves are closing.  Possibly a valve is stuck open.  If so, you may be able to tap it to see if it will close.

Another check is to buy a small laser light with a small head on a flexible shaft.  I bought mine up here (Canada) from Canadian Tire, but Harbor Freight or an Auto supply store should have one.  You can actually insert this into the spark plug hole and look in to the cylinder. Rotate the motor with either the kicker or the rear wheel with bike on stand and in 4th gear.  If there is a hole in the piston, there's your problem.

You can rebuild these engines fairly easily, if you have the tools (10, 12, 14, 17. and 19mm sockets and wrenches are all you really need), a couple of friends to help lift the motor out (comes out the right side), and a sturdy bench. You should buy an impact screwdriver before you start, as some of the screws will be too tight for and ordinary phillips screwdriver.  You probably only need to rebuild the top end, as the bottom ends, transmissions, etc. are usually good.  You may need to get it bored out, buy new pistons and rings, and get a valve job, and be sure to get new timing chain tensioner.  I think they are still available from Honda.  Naturally, you will need gasket set.

Another option is to check with bike junkyards.  If you find a motor that still turns over with compression, it will probably run.
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 350 non start + Alternator cover + kickstart</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re350nonstartalterna_t1929.html#1983</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Dave,
I just joined so maybe your problem is solved.  Anyway, for the benefit of others, here's my best guess.

First, make sure you don't have too much oil in the motor. Check it with bike on the centerstand, or hold it vertical.  Only a small amount of oil is normally in the timing  cover. If you have accidently added an extra quart, the extra oil can be a problem.  In fact, you can even run a CB350 with this cover off if you lean it over slightly to the right (use a jackstand on the right foot peg mount, not the folding peg, obviously!)and no oil should leak out.
 
Has anyone had the point cam advance mechanism apart?  You can actually pull the points cam out of the advance mechanism, and put it back in 180 degrees out of time. The motor will then do exactly as you described.  Make sure you're actually getting gas to the carbs.  The tank valve can get filled up with rust or dirt, and not let any gas thru.

The kick start issue is not clear. Are you sure the clutch is not slipping when kicking it over?  Otherwise, you will have to remove the right side cover to check out the kick start spring and engagement.

Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t1952.html#1982</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ryan,
I've been working on CB350's for about 5 years, mostly racing.  I read your question because I'm having an ignition problem myself, and it started missing on the right cylinder.  First, you don't need a charging system to run your bike.  As long as the charging system is not shorting out or draining your battery (voltage has not dropped below 11 volts or so), your bike should run.  You can disconnect everything, and just run a wire from your battery (plus) terminal to the small connector beneath the tank that connects to your coils ( I believe the wires, one to each coil, are black with a white stripe). As long as you have good voltage, the bike should run. To determine if the problem is with one of the coils or condensers, you can actually reverse the yellow and blue wires that come from your points at their terminal at the coils, and reverse the high tension wires by switching them from one side to the other.  If the problem reverses sides, then suspect your coil or condenser. If the problem does not reverse, then suspect your right spark plug, or the right carburetor. Let us know how you make out.
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>I need help with my kick start spring!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/ineedhelpwithmykicks_t1981.html#1981</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I need some help.  Can anyone please post some pics of the correct way that the kick start spring is configured.  There is a small ear that is part of the case that has been broken off on my 73 cl350 and I'm not sure if this is where the spring is supposed to be contacting.

thanks, Jeff]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1972 cl350 scrambler jetting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1972cl350scramblerje_t1977.html#1977</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I got myself a Honda 1972 cl350 scrambler im getting my cylinder bored to .25 over bore. The question that i have is, do i have to rejet the carbs?and if yes how do i do that? im also going to put on airfilter pods on which also probably requires jetting.So can anyone help me? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Running tail light not working??? HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/runningtaillightnotw_t1971.html#1971</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So i realized last night when i went on a night ride that the running light on my 1970 cb350 twin was not working.  I don't think it ever worked.  It lights up bright when i hit my brakes, and also when i turn the key to the "park" position.  Is this a wiring problem? light bulb problem? or do these models just don't have a running light? :? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Best manual for rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/bestmanualforrebuild_t1970.html#1970</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, Im new to the forum. I plan on rebuilding a sl350 and a cb350 engine and would like opinions on the best manual to buy for this purpose. If anyone knows of a good on line site to take you through the rebuild I would also appreciate it. Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fuel lines</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refuellines_t1865.html#1969</link>
	<description><![CDATA[There may be a possibility that the gas cap is not venting properly.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1973 Honda CB 350 carb re-build kits</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1973hondacb350carb_t1951.html#1966</link>
	<description><![CDATA[For anyone interested, I finally got the correct carb re-build kit for a 1973 Honda CB350G. It is a Keyster
 KH-1200.
I had the carbs sonic cleaned, and with the re-build (with the correct parts) the bike now runs great!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 CL 350- No compression Left Side</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cl350-nocompress_t1965.html#1965</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I was riding in march to my sister's house on a highway. About a half-mile before my exit, i noticed i was losing power. I tried to give it gas and i kept losing power. I downshifted and continued to lose power. Downshifting down to 2nd gear on the ramp, I cut the engine. 
 
I walked the bike to the nearest parking lot (thankfully, not far). When i got there, I noticed oil all over the back of the bike, on the wheel, the engine, the chain, etc. I decided to load it up and take it to a family friend who works oncars/bikes. He looked at it and said there is no compression on the left side. He reccomended to take it to a shop b/c he doesn't have time to rebuild the engine. I called a honda bike dealership and they seemed uninterested in working on it.
 
I want to call up other shops but I am also toying with the idea of rebuilding it myself. Do you think that would be biting off more than I can chew? 

I am not a mechenic by profession. I have the Clymer manual which has helped thus far. Many friends have told me to scrap it and buy another bike, but I really have grown fond of this one. Any advice????
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 SL350 Clutch adjustment</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970sl350clutchadjus_t1964.html#1964</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1970 SL350 and I am having a hard time getting the clutch adjusted properly. I cannot seem to get the clutch to completely disengage when pulling in the clutch lever. I get either a slight creep or the engine bogs down and kills. I have followed the instructions in the manuels but they are somewhat vague especially about the clutch adjustment screw and how to do that properly. I have replaced the cable, which seemed to match the old one just fine. I did disassemble the the clutch mechanism when I replaced the cable so maybe I put something back together improperly but the creep is very slight and I'm not seeing the problem and it is driving me crazy. Help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: clutch wont engage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reclutchwontengage_t1866.html#1957</link>
	<description><![CDATA[take it back apart and make sure the shifter arm is mated to the piece in the cover. I just did mine the other day and had the same problem. I had to place it two times to get it in the correct spot.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 350 non start + Alternator cover + kickstart</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re350nonstartalterna_t1929.html#1956</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Dave, the alternator is a wet type on these models, its fine. I'd say you need to clean or replace your points and check you timing. Fairly easy to do. Let me know if you need references.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: how to set float height?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowtosetfloatheigh_t1942.html#1955</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This site has some great info for setuping up a carb and float. Goodluck.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/15050635/Honda-CB-CL-SL350-Carb-Data-and-General-Info

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t1952.html#1954</link>
	<description><![CDATA[sounds like you may a timing issue.Have you checked it? Its pretty easy. I've never touched a bike until a few weeks ago and I got mine timed up just by reading a some instructions online.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cb350firingprobl_t1952.html#1952</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi one and all,

I bought a 70 cb350 and cant get it running on both cylinders, and on top of that the bike isnt charging the battery. Ive check the stator and it checks out fine.Ive never been able to get 14 volts out of it, even with a new fire power battery in it.

Now rebuilt the carbs, put new points on, and new condenser. I have good spark on both cylinders. but its always the right cylinder that stops working but if I pull the left carb off and start it it will run on the right cylinder.  I'm wondering if the charging system problem is part of the problem and should be addressed first or?  just really looking for some help as I'm really stumped on this thing.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 Honda CB 350 carb re-build kits</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1973hondacb350carbre_t1951.html#1951</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I bought the bike new (in Canada) and have maintained it myself. The carbs are Keihin 722A - LB4 (left) and KKY (right). The Clymer service/repair handbook is not bad but the exploded view is not of the correct Carb. Also the carb float height height spec is wrong - should be 26 mm not 19. My main problem is getting a rebuild kit. Can anyone confirm the correct Keyster number is KH-1120? And, does anyone have experience with this carb?  This or any Keyster product?  Re-jetting (mine have 70 and 115 installed) ?  Common problems? Suggestions? Is that little black nylon plug in the pilot jet hole really supposed to be there - blocking the fuel???
It runs well and has low mileage.  Also has a new ignition system, cam chain, timing OK, etc... The only thing wrong with the performance is it has no power above 4000 to 6000 RPM (depending on the gear it's in)
I think it has to be carb trouble.
Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CB350 Swingarm Collars Needed</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cb350swingarmc_t1948.html#1950</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Scott,
I am not sure which part you are looking for, but I would like to try to help. What exactly is the swingarm collar. Is that what the part is called?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 CB350 Swingarm Collars Needed</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1969cb350swingarmcol_t1948.html#1948</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am working on a 1969 Honda CB 350 restoration project and can not find any replacement collars for the swingarm.  I have new bushings but also need the collars.  I have tried all of the typical sources, such as David Silver Spares, Ohio Cafe Racers, etc. but can't find anything.  Does anybody have a source they can direct me to?

Thanks,
 ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: how to set float height?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowtosetfloatheigh_t1942.html#1945</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am assuming that you don't have a shop manual. It's hard to describe the float setting procedure without pictures. Try looking at this site. There is some info on overflowing carbs and setting float height. This site also has a ton of other great info. Good luck.
http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view?back=http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&va=motorcycle+fuel+petcock&fr=yfp-t-701-s&w=680&h=1027&imgurl=www.dansmc.com/cvcarb2.jpg&rurl=http://www.dansmc.com/carbs.htm&size=39k&name=cvcarb2 jpg&p=motorcycle fuel petcock&oid=beabad18c6e6bc5e&fr2=&no=11&tt=609&sigr=10veage0i&sigi=10qfm1n8i&sigb=136gr3l35]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 350 Twin Choke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71350twinchoke_t1863.html#1944</link>
	<description><![CDATA[open is the opposite of closed/choke. so it should run good open, just like it is. Choke it when it's cold, if the weather is warm you may find you won't need it]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 350 Twin Choke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71350twinchoke_t1863.html#1943</link>
	<description><![CDATA[open is the opposite of closed/choke. so it should run good open, just like it is. Choke it when it's cold, if the weather is warm you may find you won't need it]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>how to set float height?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/howtosetfloatheight_t1942.html#1942</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone, got my first CB350 '72 and first thing i did was buy carb rebuild kits. had bad gas, ran good and then i tried syncing the carbs. figured I use 'doing it by ear' method since they're only 2 carbs and cylinders. (by the way, i never heard of this, i guess i invented that method just from working on other engines). so when i bench synced them the bike ran almost perfect, it wasn't hitting all the way under 3 grand. can't get it to accelerate ever since i tried tweaking it. Next problem is my carbs are overflowing w/ the petcock set to ON.

Please let me know your advice, thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: bike races at idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebikeracesatidle_t1937.html#1941</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Loosen up those idle screws, if that doesnt help, im not too sure.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Gas cap troubles HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/gascaptroubleshelp_t1940.html#1940</link>
	<description><![CDATA[MY gas cap doesnt want to breathe correctly.  MY bike stalls due to lack of gas to the carbs from the gas tank not being able to vent through the gas cap.  Is there any good way to fix this without buying a new cap?  Like something i can do to the cap i have to fix it.  I'm not sure how these things work.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>19 inch wheel on 1970 CB350???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/19inchwheelon1970cb3_t1939.html#1939</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Wondering if this is a bad idea or not....

I need a new wheel for my 1970 CB350, and I can potentially get a good deal on a nice condition 19" wheel from a cl350.  I was wondering if it will it and if anyone has even done this.  Also, would it make the bike look weird??

Thanks!!  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 SL 350 ko   exhaust assembly question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970sl350koexhaustas_t1938.html#1938</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hey guys...  newbie here

I picked up a basket case SL350 and Im in the process of re-assembling it.  Im trying to figure where the sheet metal collar in this photo.  anyone know?  I don't see it in any of the parts break downs but it had the same soot all over it as the muffler and clamp...  it also has writing on one end saying "to pipe"

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>bike races at idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/bikeracesatidle_t1937.html#1937</link>
	<description><![CDATA[1971 CB350 Keihin CV carbs. Start the bike, choke closed, bike starts and idles fine. Once warm, open the choke, the RPMs go up to about 5000. If I close the choke, the RPMs go down slowly and the bike soon stalls. The carbs have been taken apart, inspected and cleaned. All jets and the diaphram look great. Anybody got any ideas for me? Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>jet size </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/jetsize_t1936.html#1936</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ok , I have a 1972 cb350k4 and I am wondering what jet sizes it should have. I have downloaded the manual for the bike and it tells me the jets should be #60 primary and 115 secondary.  The bike has 105 secondaries and the dealership says they never made or they cant get 115s, can anyone give me any guidance?

Thank you]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Converting &apos;69 CB350 to disk brakes</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reconverting69cb350t_t1925.html#1930</link>
	<description><![CDATA[a cb360 forks and wheel bolted right up to my '72 cb350.  oddly enough, i used the 350's original drum break wheel and not the 360's disk- it was completely interchangeable with the disk without any modifications what so ever- gotta love old hondas.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>350 non start + Alternator cover + kickstart</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/350nonstartalternato_t1929.html#1929</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
i cannot get my SL350 to start.It sparks ok but just spits back through the carbs , no hint of firing. I pulled off the alternator cover to check the timing and it was full of oil - is it supposed to be or has the seal failed?
Also the kick start only engages whe the bike is upright, wont engaage when it is on the side stand.
Lots of helpful advice required !

Thanks in advance
Dave]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Converting &apos;69 CB350 to disk brakes</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/converting69cb350tod_t1925.html#1925</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all, this is my first post here. I have a '69 CB350 that was lowered by the previous owner. I have undone the damage to the rear suspension, and am ready to start the front. However, at some point I wanted to change at least the front to disk brakes, and I'm thinking I should just do this all at once.

Does anyone know of a fork/wheel combination that will bolt into the stock triple clamps, be at or close to the stock ride height, and includes disk brakes? Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda CL350 (Newbie Problems)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondacl350newbiepr_t1875.html#1919</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well your battery is dead so it will not turn over. A good battery will be 13volts so ... 

As to your original problem the float lifts and hits a valve cut off the flow of gas into the carb. If it doesn't work then you will get the situation you described and will flood the carb making it very hard to start. Rebuild the carb with either a good manual or someone helping you and charge the battery. You should be fine.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1445.html#1915</link>
	<description><![CDATA[OK, i took the starter apart, cleaned it etc. got the battery good and charged and now it is strong enough to turn the engine over. But i still have the problem that when i hit the button the starter spins freely. So do i have a starter clutch problem?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1914</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,   I'm still working through my carb problems. I’m just waiting now on replacement choke flaps as I found cracks and some small parts missing from mine. I’m sure now its float height. Read on.......

I have unearthed more information that may be of use to others. As would seem the case the CB250 and 350 K series went through several models of carb.

I found a very well detailed service manual on the CB350. Unfortunately I can't find a date or a publisher reference in the pages I have as it’s only an extract on the carbs section. However the data given looks very well researched and I think worth reproducing. A lot better than the Haynes Manual this simply states 19mm for the 250 / 350 for all years from 69 onwards. Nice work lads, you must have had a nice sideline going there in carbs kits. What a disgrace to publish that without stipulating or at least hinting to the varying float heights that must have been well known at the time. This must have caused endless issues for unsuspecting and not so experienced home mechanics (me for one!). 

Extract from Manual (A better one)...

CARBURETORS. Two Keihin CV carburetors are used on all models except
SL 350 Kl and SL 350 K2 units which are equipped with two Keihin sliding valve type PW 24 carburetors. Basic specifications of carburetors installed on early CL and CB models are different from later CL and CB models. Due to changes in camshaft design, it was necessary to change jet sizes on some models to provide more uniform performance. Refer to the following standard carburetor specifications

CB 350 and CL 350 Models (Fig. HN9-2) Engine #E.1OOOOO1 to E-1045164
Identification mark (IM) 350-A

Primary mainjet (15) #60
Secondary mainjet (11) #115
Slow jet (14) #38
Pilot air screw (8) turns out, 3/4
Float level (A—Fig. HN9-1) . . . . 19mm(3/4 inch)

CB 350 and CL 350 Models (Fig. HN9-2) Engine #E.1O45165 to E-1065278
Identification mark (IM) .. 3-B and 3-C
Primary mainjet (15) #70
Secondary mainjet (11) #110
Slow jet (14) #35
Pilot air screw, turns out, 1
Float level (A—Fig. HN9-1) ... .21mm (13/16 inch)

CB 350 and CL 350 Models (Fig. HN9-2) Engine #E-1065279 and up
Identification mark (IM) 3-D
Primary mainjet (15) #70
Secondary mainjet (11) #105
Slow jet (14) #35
Pilot air screw, turns out, 3/4 
Float level (A—Fig. HN12-1) .. .26mm (11/32 inch)

(Fig. HN9-2)
Identification mark (IM) 722A and 726A
Primary mainjet (15) #68
Secondary mainjet (11) #105
Slow jet (14) #35
Pilot air screw, turns out, l+1/8
Float level (A—Fig. HN9-1) . . . . 26mm (11/32 inch)

(Fig. HN9-2) equipped with an electric starter
Identification mark (IM) 728A 
Primary main jet (15) #70 
Secondary main jet (11) #100 
Slow jet (14) #35 
Pilot air screw, turns out 1+1/8
Float level (A—Fig. HN9-1) 26mm (1+1/32 inch)

END OF EXTRACT...

Curiously the manual doesn’t explain the last three carb types Vs engine numbers???

The same scenario may well apply to the CB250 but I don't have this level information (yet). I did however get some data on the 250 carbs from a very helpful dealer that had had a Honda Carb manual printed in Japan in 1972.

The information is not directly from the manual but sent to me by email in relation to my issue with my CB250K2.

CB250 carb type 250A float height 21mm
CB250 K2+3 type 2D float height 26mm
CB250 K4 type 725A float height 25mm

This data suggests only lists 3 types of Keihin CV carb model for the 250 which may fit the picture given the number of CB350s produced Vs the 250 especially for the US market. However a previous post mentioned a 725B?? so maybe there’s more?

I would guess there is plenty more information to be had out there on the 250 carbs. There was at least one camshaft change from Serial#: CB250E-3015230 onwards. Perhaps this also signified a carb change? It’s hard to say without definitive written data from the time. 

Another source of data I found was a Honda Service manual for the CB/CL250 /CB/Cl350 from 1968 which gives a float height of 21 +/- 0.5 mm for the 250 and 19 +/- 0.5 mm for the 350 

Since they are writing for 1968 I am assuming here they mean the 250 / 350 K0 and thus the 250A & 350A Carbs. 

(Note: God only knows why Honda / Keihin did not hold onto the "capacity" prefixes on the carb models i.e. make it 250A,B,C,D etc.
I assume the 2-D and 3-D was meant to signify "2"50 / "3"50 but where did 722A 725A come from???)

Anyhow thanks to Janos and the others for giving me the inspiration to go looking for more data and please post anything you have on the 250 carbs to fill in that picture a bit more.

Janos, I was exaggerating slightly! I wasn’t really 20 years trying to solve it. It didn't run quite right ~ 1990 when I rebuilt it and the float height was probably one of the main issues. I lost interest after a lot of tinkering and only got interested in the bike again last year after in had been in storage for years. I did often think about why it had bested me at the time though goodly number of time over the years. Either way I'll know soon what the issues was /is when (if!) I solve this once and for all!



]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1909</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Dex, I'm glad the jet thing worked out for you.sorry to hear You've traded the cb250, but the cx500 is a great bike I hope you have fun with it..I'm laying my eyes on one too but it's hard to find a CX in good condition here.Very reliable bike, I hope YOu made a good deal.   
Anyways,I rode my bike a few times since then and it's doing great but when it's warm then it runs rich at small throttle and the idle goes up and down.
I might check the foat height again that could be the cause. I had one of my float breaking down once causing these symptoms. Also my left plug is black.
Float heights:I am sure the 26mm is the right one. The 19mm is for the square type float used earlier by Honda.
 
It's interesting to experience that several cb250K-s have these 5000-6000 problems.
Like I wrote before the CB350 is working perfect without any messing around.
And altough it's the same bike the two have totally different characteristics.
The 350 pulls with torque evenly from 3000 to redline but does not have any kick at a certain rpm.
The 250 is also good from 3000 but goes a bit flat until about 6000 it really kicks hard. 
My theory is:
The 250 was designed from the 350.(Smaller bore and that's it)
Almost Every other  thing stayed the same, incuding the carb size which is probably too big for the 250 to deal with, and cannot produce a similar type of performance. (similar but less of course)
I might be wrong though.

Brendan, I was struggling with my carb problem from 2008 going crazy but not compared to you dealing with this 20 years ago.
I can imagine what you gone through.
I have also tried everything I could think of.
Carb kits are useful but didn't solve the problem.
I do not have any experience about ultrasonic cleaning but if they seemed to be clean I rather try fixing the jets o rings first.

Let me know what happened.


Have you tried without air filters?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1905</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
The Clymer book states 19mm but I agree with Yanos. This is too high and it overflows. 26mm seems about correct.

Hope this helps


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1904</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I checked and they are both 725A.

I have purchased 2 x Keyster overhaul kits.

I am thinkng of getting the carbs ultrasonically cleaned also.

I will let you know how I get on.

Can anyone advise further about float heights.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t1768.html#1902</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I think I got a good pair that came off a set Keihin carbs on a CB 350. They're attached to the slide and needle jet. If you're interested I'll sell them for $20 each plus shipping.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1901</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just came across this post. This is manna from heaven!! There are other suffers too? I thought I was alone!

I am 20 years on and off with the exact same issue with a CB250 K2.

I am so sick of this problem with the bike. I feel like throwing it off a cliff sometimes.

The bike was put into a shed in the 1990s because of it. I recently had it restored from the ground up and the "restorer" has not cured the issue depsite several requests to do it as part of the deal. That's another story.

What I tried at the time (1990s). New coils, points, jets, diaphrams, cleaned tank. I always suspected the carbs but could never see anything wrong.

I will check out what model of Carb I have on the bike and follows up on the hints. Thanks to all the fellow sufferers for the hints and tips and more so for the renewed faith that there is a solution. 








]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 CB350 stops running</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1969cb350stopsrunnin_t1898.html#1898</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ok looking for some advice before I break something.  Over the last month I have replaced the following: New battery, new plugs (burning clean looks like white ash color), timing set and rechecked, starts and idles good. I went ahead and registered it today. Then went on my first ride, every time I get 2 to 3 miles or so from the house running 50 mph steady for 1 to 1.5 miles it starts to load up and struggle. If I slow down it clears up for a bit then gets worse till it stops running. It has always restarted and made it back home. Idling it will rev hard and higher then I like spinning it but once underway for a few miles it struggles over 6k.

I have tried venting the tank and this doesn't make a difference 

Should I look next a carbs or points again?

Also checked the compression with an old Snap-on compression gauge.

Left side 90-95 right side 100-105, that is if I did this right.

frustrated in North Carolina]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 350 Twin Choke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71350twinchoke_t1863.html#1896</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ hey man if u didint figure it out ill look at my cb tomorrow and let u know ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1895</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi

After pulling the main jet out twice and refitting, on the second occasion I put it back together and it works properly :)

I agree it must have been the 'o' ring not sealing. It is not 100% but it is certainly 95% better now so I am happy.

Having done this and got it working well, I was out for a ride and saw a nice 1980 CX500 yesterday afternoon. I ended up buying it and trading my CB250 K4. I was sorry to see the K4 go but the CX is also a bit different and still old but only 30 years this time!

Can I thank you for your help as knowing what you did to fix your bike pushed me forward on the right path.

Many thanks again.

Dex




]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1892</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The Jet should go in far enough about 3mmm without the additional o-ring. Maybe that's your problem anyway.It might not be pushed in extensively, or the pipe under it is not in place. 
Officially it is called emulsion tube. This is where air is pre-mixing with fuel before going up.
My jets go in tight but after the o_ring is through it's relatively loose thatswhy I think it was not sealing. It probably sealed fuel but not the vacuum pressure.
To help the jets in place you can use drop of WD40 it won't hurt 'em.
Bend the jet holder metal thing a little bit so the float bowl will keep it tightly in when reassembling.

It is possible that the right size o-ring should seal enough without putting anything under, but this way you will find out the problem cause.
I have a friend of mine using some kind of thread lock at the jets.
Maybe he 's right but I'm not sure it stands against gasoline.

Good Luck
     ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1891</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi

Thanks, I'll play with the 'O' rings over the weekend to try to get a better seal. 

When I put the main (105 jet) in. I was supprised that the jet only just managed to push up far enough into the carb for the 'o' ring to just about cover the end of the carb hole. I was expecting it to possibly go up futher.

So to repeat what you said, I put another 'o' ring between the 105 jet and the other tube that the needle drops into above the 105 jet. Sorry I did not know its name for this!

I am just a little concerned that if I put another 'o' ring between the two items then I'll not be able to push the 105 jet and 'o' ring high enough into the hole to get the 'o' ring on the 105 jet to seal. Perhaps I need to push harder.

Regards
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1890</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I agree, I don't want to disturb my neighbours either.I usually have time from about 4pm to 5pm, but I have to go almost out of town to do a real testride. A road with no traffic is the place I let go the horses.

I got timed out today writing a long one as you did and I forgot to save it before posting. :x 

As for the carb problem, I'm almost sure it's the jets.
Altough they are new and have new o rings I think they don't seal enough.
Here's what I did: I've put another o ring UNDER the needle(big105) jet,between the jet and the jet holder pipe. the same size as on it.
That's when it worked. It ran a little bit rich when really warmed up, but went great.
As for the small one you can't put any additional o ring under it so the big jet is a bit higher but it's ok.
when putting on the carb bowl I first put the screws that are at the back of the carb closer to the big jet and tightened them then the front two.
After testride
For proof I took the o ring out to be sure of the cause, but guess what:
It didn't get as bad as was before but it was lean on those rpm's.
So that worked for me,all I need is some testing, which will be next week I think because, weather turned cold.
I still don't understand why my 350 is running great with the normal carbs.

I got this idea from another forum subject:
http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rightcylinderrunsrou_t1607.html

I hope this works for You too!!!!
Plese inform me what happened.
Good luck and
Safe riding]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1888</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi

Just a short one today.

I had a look at the carbs and they are 725A.

Under the 725A I think it says KD 7 but not sure about the 7 as very difficult to see the marking :)

By the way, I only start the bike at the weekends as I leave early for work and get back late at night. It is quite noisy riding it through my estate at night. I do not want to upset anyone!

regards



]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1887</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I had my response disappear once, I copy the whole thing before I send it since then.
It does time out.
I think the float level at 19mm is wrong. If you set this value it should overflow.
I know that's what the manual says (Clymer) but it's wrong,of course if you have the same carb as I do, with the round float.
The correct level is 26mm as it is for the 350 also.
Maybe that causes your idling problem,but I have similar idling with my original carbs.(725B)
By the way the 725A carbs that I purchased, before seem to be better working on the bike. Starting and Idling is much better. You can smell from the exhaust.(not so choking).

The disturbing thing about the 5000-6000 problem is that its usually cruising speed, so its very hard and annoying to keep it over 6000 or under 5000 which is slow. Not mentsioning accelerating.

But I forgot the most important I wanted to tell you:

I think I know how to fix our problem!!!!!( if it's the same).
I had an hour or so this afternoon and tried something new which seems to work!!
A can't tell you now,because I tried it with the original carbs and I changed two things so I'm not sure of the success.
And I don't want to lead You to do something wrong.
 
I had only time for 1 test ride Put them on, and guess what.
No stalling,and no struggling at those rpms.
The bike runs like crazy!!!!
It did run a bit rich but this carb has bigger jets in them.
If the weather is good tomorrow afternoon(forecast say rain and ice)  :( I'll do the same thing to the other carbs and see what happens.
Will inform You as soon as possible, and hope it works for you too.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Electrical</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/electrical_t1886.html#1886</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know how to bypass the kill switch on a 1973 Honda cb350g? Is that even possible, Im trying to finish up my first rebuild and the cb just wont turn over. Timing is on, points look good, so-on. My electric starter assembly was damaged in transport, so I tried 'hot-wiring' and may have done more damage? Also my battery has a bad cell but is fully charged, should be enough to at least start the moto up? I dont know.
Thanks 
nate]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1885</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi

Just typed a long response and it dissapeared when I went to publish/add. I think it timed out.

Anyway, a little shorter this time.

1. I will try raising the carb hoses up and let you know the results as soon as possible.
2. I set my float hight to 19-20mm which I thought was correct according to my manual but I will re-check.
3. I changed the fuel hoses as the others were very perished. Unfortunately I can not go back to the old ones to see if it helps as I through them away!
4. The new ones have a bigger diameter hole (I think 7.2mm) basically because that all that Halfords shop had. This might affect the fuel pressure, also as you mentioned the length. I could make them a little shorter.
5. I cleaned the Petcock and fuel filter although it was not dirty. Perhaps I should have replaced the gause aaq this might help the fuel flow.
6. The fuel hoses are titely connected with screw based clips 
7. The bike usually starts on about the 3rd kick when cold and 1st time when warm.
8. It does idle when warm but about every 30 seconds it sounds as though it is going to die but then manages to pull through an keep going about 4 out of every 5 times. 
9. The only other thing is that in 5th it does gradually loose speed/rpm when above the 6000 rpm. This especially becomes a problem when it gets into or close to the 5-6000rpm.

I'm going to add now before I'm timed out :)
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1884</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The smoke you saw when you stopped is coming from the crankcase breather hose that is also hanged down between the frame and the engine.
It has nothing to do with the carb hoses.
Raising up the end of the hoses had an effect of running a bit rich especially at cruising speed but the 5-6000 problem goes away.
That is interesting symptom because this should not have any effect on the carburation. Normally the hoses have nothing but air in them.
Maybe the pressure rises the fuel level?
Otherwise it brings up a theory of the float level being a problem.
I've tried to experiment with the fuel level before but it only had effect on the idle and overflowing if set toot high.
I removed the inner part of the overflow pipe on one my spare float bowl and connected a see thru hose that showed me the float level.
The proper level is about where the screw head of the carb bowl meets 
the bowl. Thats about 1.5 mm below the gasket. Measured at the front part of the carb because it's a bit tilted forward.
Of course there is some capillarity in the hose causing a bit higher level but thats ok.
This level is about the same if you set the float to the factory 26mm.


I tried today afternoon raising the needle putting a washer under it but didn't change anything.
I installed two transparent fuel filters between the fuel lines to check proper fuel flowing, and guess what: IT got worse!
It died flat at 4500rpm!!!
I thought: this could not be possible that fuel filter has effect on this.
I pulled over and removed the filters and it got back like it was before!

Question:
Did you change your fuel hoses?
Did you have your petcock cleaned?
Are your fuel lines tightly connected?

I've read at one of the forums that the fuel lines length and air leaks can affect carburetors performance.
Did you look at the carb type?
Does your bike starts easy?
idles fine?

regards

  
 ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1883</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You are correct I ment a 1mm jet under the Jet needle. However it did not seem to help but did make it richer

I have not changed the diaphrams and slides as they are quite expensive. The diaphrams do look a little stretched though over pictures I've seen of new ones.

I'm also not running stock exhausts but I don't know what mine are! Seen some simular ones on old british bikes.

The new Jet sizes are 105 and 70 which is identical to what came out.

Regarding the gaskets, yes, O rings, float bowl gasket and also the inlet manifold rubber or gasket just in case there was an air leak between the carb and engine which I was not detecting.

I will try your theory on the overflow hoses on the bottom of the float bowl. Unfortunately I can not try this until next weekend. Strange you should mention this because when I last rode the bike, when I stopped I noticed a small amout of smoke coming from where the overflow hoses were going between the frame. 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1882</link>
	<description><![CDATA[To answer your question my carbs were not cleaned profesionally but i don't know what you mean exactly by that.
I know that you can get (not here) carb dips that remove any remaining stuff and clogging from the carb but I am almost sure that I cleaned it well  several times. After that I went through spray carb cleaner wich I have.  Otherwise the carbs that work perfect on the other bike, does not on this one. Altough the 350 usues a different carb type(722A) it looks like and the size is exatly the same as the 250.THe difference is maybe only the pilot air holes at the throttle valve.
The 250 has 725B type.
At first I have tried the 722A.
After that  purchased a used complete pair of 725A type wich has 2 holes at the throttle valve instead of 3.
They are on it right now.     
Then bought a bunch of carbs and parts with a few slides and diaphrams an floats. This package has two Y2C type carb body which is a third type, I think this was on the first models but not sure.
I might put them together to try.They are seem to be the exact same as the others.
I spent a lot of money on these parts besides new carb kits and floats.
What type do you have?

What did you exactly mean by putting a 1mm jet under the float needle?
Did you mean the jet needle?
You can only put a very thin washer because you're not able to put the clip in.
I might try this tough.

Yes I Changed the slides and diaphrams all over but no effort.

I'm not running on the stock mufflers but I don't think they should have so much effect on this. I still have the stock ones, altough rusted through. I use Dunstall Megaphones now.
The 350 is using universal muffler too with no problems

We both agree that its running lean at those 5000-6000 rpms.
But don't you think it's interesting that if the air filter is on, it should run richer then without filter, by the fact that it's harder for air to get through?!!

That gives me a new theory.
When the air filter is on it causes the vacuum pressure to increase sooner then supposed to be.
The CV carbs are designed as for  the vacuum  raising the  slide. No matter how much you open the throttle, the slide will only open as much as the vacuum increases.
That is why they are better then the slide type carbs.
I think the slide is raising to soon, but  the vacuum is not enough to bring  the fuel up.
Thats why it's starving.
And maybe thats why my intake noise is so loud.
 
What's causing this?
What can we do?
Stronger spring?
Heavier slide?
Raising the neddle?
Jets?

By the way what jet sizes do you use?
I have about 10 different sizes($$$$$)
Changed to larger ones but same problem, and run rich on low and high rpm.
My experience was 98/70 is the best(without air filter of course)
You said you changed the gaskets?
You mean O rings and float bowl gasket?
Maybe pressure rising in the float bowl, and doesn't have enogh ventillation? 
One more you should try:
This is a stupid theory, I discovered accidentally:
If you have your overflow hoses on the bottom of the float bowl, and long enough to reach to about as high as the fuel tank than raise them both high(You can stuff them between the seat and the tank if you like) while riding. Now try to to rev it to 5000-6000.
I'll won't tell you what I experienced so tell me when you done it.
Explanation?

safe riding
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1881</link>
	<description><![CDATA[With ref to your second message:- Mine is mainly the right hand cylinder. If the right was as good as the left I could probably accept it. 
BTW I swapped over the slides/diaphram and Needles. I think there was a small improvement however at some point I must try this again as it is not clear to me how much of an improvement it was if any?

A couple of questions for you:-
1. Have you had your carbs professionally cleaned? 
2. Do you have the standard exhaust on your bike?
3. Have you changed the diaphrams in the carb?

Good luck
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1880</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I think the problem first came about when I replaced the Jets and carb gaskets. I did not however replace the diaphrams and slides

When I got the bike a few months ago it was running very rich and it  would not rev above 7000! This problem has now been fixed and once I'm past the 6000 it will rev into the red. 

Anyway, list of where I am up to.

Changed and adjusted the points,
Replaced the condensers.
Re-done the timing
New air filters
fuel tank cleaned
Carb pulled apart and put back together a few times
Swapped over the Plug Caps

My right cylinder seemed to be running lean. I heard that putting a 1mm jet under the float needle helped in this situation, This is correct however, I still had my 5000-6000prm problem!

None of the above seemed to change anything!

I have not yet had time to run it without air filters, however, before purchasing the new Air filters, I rode the bike without the metal covers over the filters and there was about a 60-70% improvement in the problem.

I to wondered if the problem was electrical. The HT leads on mine seem to go straight into the coil. This surprised me as I thought the HT lead would join to some sort of connector on the coil.

I ran each cylinder in turn and earthed the other plug to watch the quality of the spark through the rev range and both sides were ok. (Of course I don't know if it makes any difference under load)

I was thinking of getting some second hand carbs but you said that you replaced the carbs and still had the same problem? In which case is it the carbs at all.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1879</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Are You absolutely sure it's only the right cylinder? Mine tricked me, I thought it seemed to be the left but later I noticed that both cylinders are missing but not at the same time.
Today as the weather got better continued experimenting.
I was beginning to think that it's an electrical problem so I changed the coils and condensers with the 350-s. Didn't work.
I checked the ignition with timing light but it's good.
No more ideas for now.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1874.html#1878</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi!
It's weird but I have the same exact problem with my cb250 k4!!!
I am going crazy about it! 
I've tried everything as I could think of finding the cause, but I couldn't.
Let's see:
When I bought the bike I totally rebuilt the engine. It was great  but I noticed a   little stalling at about 5000-6000. 
It also had some small electrical problem fixed(fuse went out because of starter cable short circuited by drive chain)

So I tried to start with a carb rebuild and that's when it got worse.(symptom like yours)

-changed and adjusted the points.
- valves
- tried different jets
- new battery
- put back the old parts in the carb: problem still present!!!!! 
- bought other carbs: same thing!!!!
- new air cleaner
- fuel tank cleaned
- carb fuel level adjusted(tried different levels too)
- experimented with changing different parts in the carburetor:nothing changed
The interesting thing is it's running lean because i turn the choke on it works but only at that particular rpm.

The only thing that worked for me is removing the stock air filters.
It give's her wings. You should try too. If it works for you then we are surely dealing with the same problem.
I used sport filters and they also worked but I don!t like them because I don't believe they are 100% effective and are also loud, wich I don't like either.
The stalling problem at 5000 is gone but the power is still a bit flat at this rpm, and the kick is coming at 6000.
Other thing noticed is at 5000-6000 the intake noise is really loud and sharp sound and spitting some gas out of the carbs which is a bit unusual. 
I don't know what's causing these problems, I am not an amateur mechanic.I've put 4 of these engines together I know them well.

I also have a CB350(same bike but bigger bore) which I put together from pieces without any experimenting with carbs or jets.Everything stock, filters, jet sizes etc.
It's running perfect from the first kick.No stalling no power loss or missing.
The power is coming continuisly smooth from 3000 to redline, no need to turn it over 6000 for passing.
No intake noise at all.
I Know it's larger,but only 75cm3 wich is not a reason for a big difference.
Please try without air cleaner and let me know, but be careful with the engine not sucking in anything you don't want to.

regards

Janos]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda CL350 (Newbie Problems)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondacl350newbiepr_t1875.html#1876</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I think maybe the problem was that the carbs were not in all the way.  There is a ridge on each one and that was no in the rubber sleeve going into the engine.  Does anyone have any tips to get the carbs in all the way?  There is not much room to work and I cant get much leverage.

Thanks again, and if you have any wisdom, I would appreciate it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda CL350 (Newbie Problems)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hondacl350newbieprob_t1875.html#1875</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi everyone.  I know nothing about bikes but wanted to learn so I bought a sweet looking CL350 (70).  I love the bike and it is in great condition (it even used to start) :lol: 

When I brought it home and left the petcock on, the entire gas tank leaked out in the span of about 30 minutes.  So, I checked where it was leaking - the over flow bowl of the left carb.  I took that apart (read taht the floats might need adjusting) and put it together.  Bike didnt start after that.  First hte carbs were dry, now im getting gas (the overflow screw proves it) but it wont turn over with teh kick starter.  What am i doing wrong?  

Also, now the starter wont turn.  At first there was a strong click, but now its not making much noise at all (I tried starting it aobut 15 times during my trial and error, and it got worse and worse).  Checked the voltage on the battery and its about 11 volts, so i assume that should be good unless im not getting enough current?

I guess my question is if someone could please walk me step by step or atleast give major topics as to how to diagnose the system.  What should I do about the starter?  What about the fact that I cant get it going with teh kick start?

Im hoping someone here is able to tell me that im clearly and idiot and here is where I went wrong because I would love to be able to ride this bike!

Thanks a lot!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/subjecthondacb250k4c_t1874.html#1874</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Can anyone help? I have purchased a CB250K4 1972. It runs well up to about 5000 rpm struggles to get to 6000rpm but eventually pulls through and its then fine up to the red line. Taking each plug cap off in turn seems to suggest most of the problem of getting from 5000rpm to 6000 rpm is on the right hand cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas thankyou
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 cb 350 for parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72cb350forparts_t1690.html#1871</link>
	<description><![CDATA[@Edward:

Can you post a list of items that you have :?: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 cb 350 for parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72cb350forparts_t1690.html#1870</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hello,
Im looking for the exhaust heat shield, do you have it?  Thanks,]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Need a few pointers</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/needafewpointers_t1868.html#1868</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I was wondering if I can rest assured that most parts are interchangeable on a 1969 CL350 and a CB350. I am restoring a 1969 CL and I could use any input or tips that anyone has to offer. I can't seem to locate a gasket and seal kit for a '69 CL, but there are a few out there for CBs of the same vintage. Any really good part sources? (US, please)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: The bike pops out of first gear. I got to take out the motor and split the case to fix?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethebikepopsoutoffi_t1826.html#1867</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yes...you are more than likely going to have to pull the engine,pull the heads and cylinders off, split the cases, and see what's going on in there. While being very careful that everything goes back in the way it came out. Usually, it is the engagement dogs on the gears that get worn. Could also be your shift drum. You really have to open up the bottom end and see. If you are anywhere near Harrisburg, Pa., I am a certified motorcycle technician with a small shop, and I'd be glad to fix it for you. Ken]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>clutch wont engage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/clutchwontengage_t1866.html#1866</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i put a new cable on the 72 cb350 i just acquired and now it wont engage wen i pull the the clutch lever in ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>fuel lines</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/fuellines_t1865.html#1865</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi guys, 
New to the board, but I've been looking around for a good place to ask questions and find info on my 72 honda cb350 and this forum was by far the most helpful I found.

I have a silly question I'm sure but does the actual diameter of the fuel lines to the carbs make any difference?

For some reason my carbs do not seem to be taking gas in. I swapped the old black fuel lines for clear ones to see if this was actually happening. 

The bike starts fine and runs on the left cyclinder, but neither carb seems to be pulling gas.

Does anyone have any experience with this problem?

Thanks for your help in advance!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 350 Twin Choke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71350twinchoke_t1863.html#1863</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just picked a 71 350 Twin and I have a few questions.  First,  I love the bike,  it is fun to ride and look at.  It is red in color and in decent shape.

1. When starting what position is the choke to be in? When I keep it closed and start the bike it starts but will stall if not on the throttle.

2. What position is the choke supposed to be in?  when starting? and also when riding?  It has "open" written on it and points down.

The bike runs well with the choke "open" but sputters with it closed and runs rough.

Thanks in advance,  i am looking forward to restoring this bike fully.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>SL350 K2 Clocks</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/sl350k2clocks_t1857.html#1857</link>
	<description><![CDATA[HI
I am restoring an SL350K2 - could you tell me if the clocks are mounted to a bracket or direct to the top yolk please?
I know the K1 clocks are bracket mounted but the clocks and mount dont fit the K2 top yolk.

thanks

Dave
england]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: seat cover</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reseatcover_t1827.html#1854</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi charlie
I got a seat cover and foam for my SL350 from excel custom forming - they have a web site and are on ebay, quality looks very good

Regards
Dave Burn
england]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: SL 350 Frame</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resl350frame_t1845.html#1853</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
You are correct - the frame down tubes do have a kink as described.
I was going to post a question but you may be able to help. I am restoring an SL350K2 - could you have a look at your bike and tell if the clocks are mounted to a bracket or direct to the top yolk please?

many thanks
Dave Burn]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>SL 350 Frame</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/sl350frame_t1845.html#1845</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi All 

Wondering if you can tell me if the down tubes on a 72 SL (twin down tubes) have a kink about a quarter of the way down on both tubes (i am assuming to clear the exhaust headers), and is this kink symmetrical on both down tubes? Whats the best way to see if the frame is bent? 
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Only running on the left cylinder, Ignition?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reonlyrunningonthele_t1473.html#1844</link>
	<description><![CDATA[check your wires to and from the coils ,they will work loose.My bike does it all the time iam getting new connector to fix the problem.Should be under the gas tank.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 twin ingnition upgrade</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350twiningnition_t1572.html#1843</link>
	<description><![CDATA[it about 300 plus dollar but google bore tech out of Ohio they make ignition for the honda cb 350.Dynatech is suppose to introduce a new system shortly if
 not already.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 cb 350 for parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72cb350forparts_t1690.html#1831</link>
	<description><![CDATA[im looking for a throttle tube, RH control and a few other goodies. still up for parts?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>seat cover</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/seatcover_t1827.html#1827</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Need a seat cover for `72 cl350....has anyone bought one?  From where?  Are you pleased with the quality?

Thanks,
Charlie in NJ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>The bike pops out of first gear. I got to take out the motor and split the case to fix?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/thebikepopsoutoffirs_t1826.html#1826</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have no clue is why I'm asking. Anybody had this problem?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How to shorten a 1970 Honda cb350 front end</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowtoshortena1970h_t1701.html#1825</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The springs are on the out side. I add a two inchs spacer to the inside and cut one and a half inch off the springs. works fine]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Crank Bolt Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recrankboltremoval_t1814.html#1824</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Glad it worked it out anyways :)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Crank Bolt Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recrankboltremoval_t1814.html#1823</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Alright, well apparently no one ever uses this forum, but I found out how to remove it anyway.  Just use an impact wrench. 8) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: seat pans</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reseatpans_t1785.html#1822</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Don't see any pans, but all kinds of seats on EBay from $29.95 up...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb500 four oil seal leak</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb500fouroilsealle_t1792.html#1816</link>
	<description><![CDATA[yep you can pry it ok ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How to shorten a 1970 Honda cb350 front end</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowtoshortena1970h_t1701.html#1815</link>
	<description><![CDATA[measure and cut the internal springs.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Crank Bolt Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/crankboltremoval_t1814.html#1814</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anyone know how to remove the crank bolt on a 1972 350?  I need to remove the generator to fix my starter clutch  :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t1768.html#1813</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The junkyards would be your best bet!  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1460.html#1812</link>
	<description><![CDATA[BUMP!! CMON GUYSSS :cry:  :cry:  :cry:  :cry: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1460.html#1801</link>
	<description><![CDATA[BUMP! :shock:  any help??]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1460.html#1800</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi guys!

I'm new to this forum and found I have same problem  with my 72 CB350.  I was wondering how you get the crankbolt off, in order to use the rotor puller?  May seam like a stupid question, but I just don't know.  Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Engine Trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350enginetrouble_t1738.html#1797</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Try checking the breather hose located at the top of your engine plate.  The breather hose connects to the top plate of your engine and is usually tucked between the lower back of the engine and the engine mounting brackets.  You may have pinched the hose during installation of the engine causing pressure to build-up in the engine while the engine is running. The build-up of high engine pressure will likely cause your engine to stall or stop running due to the pressue build-up by the possible pinched breather tube. The engine pressure has to have a way to be released.  As a test disconnect the breather tube at the top of your engine plate and start the engine feel for air pressure at the breather hole and check the hose to see if pinched or if it is restricting air flow.  If you are not getting any air flow from the breather hole after disconnecting the breather hose make sure you have installed the top plate correctly. Hope this helps.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb500 four oil seal leak</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb500fouroilsealleak_t1792.html#1792</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone on here know whether or not I can change the oil seal behind the drive sprocket without motor disasembly or removal ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t1768.html#1791</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I bought my replacements by buying a set a carbs that were pretty much just spare parts.  Good Luck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Engine Trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350enginetrouble_t1738.html#1790</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Had a similar problem.  Bike would run for about 5 minutes then just stop.  I had installed a new gasket seal on the gas cap.  Did it wrong and the tank was not able to get air.  This resulted in a vacume in the tank not letting gas flow.  I would open and close the fuel cap and the bike would start right up.  Drove me nuts for about a week till I figured it out.  Good Luck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t1768.html#1787</link>
	<description><![CDATA[To start -- i don't have any... but what symptoms are you experiencing that make you think you need to change them? I was thinking I needed the same repair -- my carbs are clean but the bike stalls at idle in gear. By the way, I have a CB400a. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>seat pans</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/seatpans_t1785.html#1785</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am brand new to the forum but have long been a fan of the 350 twins. Currently I own a CL350 and a CB350 along with about 4 junk bikes for parts. All these bikes have bad seat pans, rusty or cracked. Does anyone make reproduction seat pans for the 350 twins?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Idle Adjustment Screws</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reidleadjustmentscre_t1776.html#1784</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi,do you know the history of the bike? im guessing one was lost and a similar was found at a junk yard or something?if its got the same thread and the taper can cut the air /fuel off fully itll have to do,,dont go by how many turns in or out ,go by ear ..good luck!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Idle Adjustment Screws</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/idleadjustmentscrews_t1776.html#1776</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I took both of my carbs apart to soak and I noticed that the idle adjustment screws where not the same from one carb to the other. I think the screw that came out of the right carb was the larger/longer one and the left was shorter. They both fit perfectly into their appropriate place but I didnt think there would be any reason for them to be different from the factory. 

Does anyone shed any light into this conundrum? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Pitch Circle Diameter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repitchcirclediamete_t1766.html#1770</link>
	<description><![CDATA[if you ring your local wheel builder they may know]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/replacementdiaphragm_t1768.html#1768</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Do they still exist? If so where can I get some? Apparently Honda discontinued them and SCI is out of stock.  :? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: WTB cb or cl 350 twin</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewtbcborcl350twin_t1753.html#1767</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks for the response but I actually just got back from NC today with my new 1970 cl350! Best of luck selling yours.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Pitch Circle Diameter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/pitchcirclediameter_t1766.html#1766</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all

Strange question I know, but could someone please advise the Pitch Circle Diameter of the Front Wheel Hub on the CB 350? 

Many thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: WTS 73 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewts73cl350_t1761.html#1765</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yeah id hate to do it but I'm a broke college student who just bought a car but I love the bike. It starts right up and I need to sell it before I have to winterize it. Its just sitting in the garage!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: WTS 73 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewts73cl350_t1761.html#1763</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Too bad for you that you have to sell it.  :cry: 

To me, $1100 seems to be a reasonable price.

Good luck with selling!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>WTS 73 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/wts73cl350_t1761.html#1761</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey guys I don't want to but I have to sell my 73 scrambler. Here's the add on craigslist.
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/1400570754.html

Let me know if you have any question and ill try and answer. Thanks guys.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: WTB cb or cl 350 twin</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewtbcborcl350twin_t1753.html#1760</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi I'm trying to sell mine if you are interested. The price is pretty negotiable. Thanks.
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/1400570754.html]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cam, cam chain, piston allignment tips?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recam camchain pisto_t1755.html#1756</link>
	<description><![CDATA[honestly my manual was in the shed and i hadnt read it before i posted. im clear on lining up the LT marker and keeping the notch on the camshaft vertical. since i cant delete posts, just wanted to let you know. 

-one question still: should the camshaft marks be vertical before or after applying tension to the chain? thanks guys.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Cam, cam chain, piston allignment tips?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cam camchain pistona_t1755.html#1755</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just tore my heads apart due to a smokey right cylinder. The smoke was backing all the way up to my top plate breather so apart it came. The top piston ring was busted and a new set is on its way. My question is: when going to re-assemble the cam sprocket and cam shaft, how do i make sure that the cam shaft (and sprocket, chain) are in the correct position in their cycle to match up right with the pistons in their cycle? i have not messed with the bottom end so i can still line up timing (LF)to give me some hint for when the exhaust arm should soon be lifting...but not precise. Any tips would be appreciated. thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>WTB cb or cl 350 twin</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/wtbcborcl350twin_t1753.html#1753</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am in Northern Virginia and am trying to pick up and cb350 twin or better yet a cl350 twin. Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 cb 350 for parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72cb350forparts_t1690.html#1752</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Is this bike still be parted out?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>69&apos; CL350 shifting problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/69cl350shiftingprobl_t1750.html#1750</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I was wondering if you could help me out with a couple of questions.  I have not had much luck posting to other forums.  My 1969 CL350 shifts fine from 1st to 2nd gear but will not go into 3rd or higher. If it does shift to 3rd if often slips out of gear. Any clue of what to diagnose my problem please? Also, could I use transmission parts from a 71' or 72' CL350 or CB350 motor? I am not sure if the parts are swappable from one years engine to the next and I don't want to buy a motor with parts I cannot use. Thanks for any info!  It is greatly appreciated.  This is my first vintage bike.  I am not much of a mechanic but willing to learn and hope to spend the next few months getting this bike dialed in.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Advice on &apos;70 K2 carbs? - Jetting/Tuning/Air Filters</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/readviceon70k2carbs-_t1742.html#1747</link>
	<description><![CDATA[That's good to know, I wonder why there were 105's in there then. Everything's been reassembled, had the bike running this morning but I noticed that spark is jumping through the side of one of the spark plug caps. 

The carbs are cv type. I've got the tuning process down now (forgot all about my manual) just needs some tinkering which will have to wait until I get new caps.

Before rebuilding the carbs and petcock the bike would only run with the choke closed. Now it will only run with it open, even when starting. Is that something I need to worry about or can I leave it be?

 I was also wondering if anyone knows what kind of pipes these are? I still haven't come across another cb with them. They sound alright, but they're a bit obnoxious.

<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d179/EkGripper/?action=view&current=IMG_3762.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d179/EkGripper/IMG_3762.jpg" border="0" alt="cb350"></a>

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Advice on &apos;70 K2 carbs? - Jetting/Tuning/Air Filters</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/readviceon70k2carbs-_t1742.html#1746</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Your bike should have orignally came with 115s so I dont think it should run too rich unless you are pretty far above sea level. As far as tuning the carbs are they the slide type or cv type?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter motor and horn wont work.....help?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restartermotorandhor_t1740.html#1745</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Use a test light to see if they are getting juice. If not chase the wires back to the buttons see if they are broke ( check carefully where they go into handlebars). If wires check out I would suspect the buttons are corroded. Hope that helps Good luck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 SL350 KICKSTART JAMMED PLEASE HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72sl350kickstartja_t1646.html#1744</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Your problem may be the anti rattle spring has come off the cog and jammed it up. Its a strip down job i'm afraid. If you cant get a spring i have a spare new one.
Dave 
(Sheffield England)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Advice on &apos;70 K2 carbs? - Jetting/Tuning/Air Filters</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/adviceon70k2carbs-je_t1742.html#1742</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone,
 
   So I'm rebuilding the carbs and the fuel petcock on my '70 K2. The kits I ordered came with 115 jets, and the ones in my carbs now are 105's. How much richer can I expect the bike to run with that increase in jet size? I'm only just getting familiar with carbs. 

    I'm not sure what to do and was looking for some advice. I plan to install the 115's and take the bike for about a 20 mile ride. I'll pull the plugs out and see how she's running. If it's running pretty rich, what can I do to compensate? I'm running stock air filters right now, if it turns out that it's running very rich, should I get a set of pods?

I don't really know how to tune the carbs once everything is put back together. Can anyone offer advice on that as well?

Any information regarding the carbs and tuning will be greatly appreciated, thanks a lot guys!

Nick]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>starter motor and horn wont work.....help?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/startermotorandhornw_t1740.html#1740</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I finally got all the electrical hooked back up for my 68' cl350 and everything is in working order, lights, high and low beams, turn indicators, tach and speedometer, everything accept for the horn and the starter motor, neither of which do anything.....any ideas? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Engine Trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350enginetrouble_t1738.html#1739</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Sounds like its overheating. Check to see if your running too lean that will cause overheating and make sure timing is correct.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 Engine Trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350enginetrouble_t1738.html#1738</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am at my end.... My brother and I have been wrenching on this 71 350 twin for about a month now.  One engine had a bad tranny, another a bad crank.... so we finally got it all together, and when we start it up it runs beautiful... but when it heats up, conk!! dead in it's tracks.  Cool her down and purrs like a kitten, for 5 mins or so.. than clunk!!  We have checked carbs for blockage, petcock for flow, adjusted and readjusted valves, timing, and cam chain tension.. what is the deal??? :( When it locks, it locks can't even kick over....]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: What size Mikuni s?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewhatsizemikunis_t1724.html#1737</link>
	<description><![CDATA[well, upon further inspection i found one of the Keihin's had bad plug in the secondary jet and that was causing it to run to rich and constantly foul out the plug on that side.

so i guess i won't be spending the big bucks for a set of Mikuni anyway.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>What size Mikuni s?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/whatsizemikunis_t1724.html#1724</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a '73 CB350G

what size Mikuni carbs will fit on the bike? 30mm, 32mm, 34mm, 36mm?

is it just a matter of jetting?

if you are not familar, measurements are here

http://www.procycle.us/carb/mikuni_dimensions.htm

and jet recommendations are welcome.

so far the only ones i have read online are

http://www.motorcycleshopper.com/articles/hondacb350/chapter4.htm

thanks in advance
Perry]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil Leak I cant figure out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilleakicantfigure_t1721.html#1722</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I should also mention is a '72 CL350]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Oil Leak I cant figure out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/oilleakicantfigureou_t1721.html#1721</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I have an oil leak that I cant seem to figure out where its coming from. I have the general location down. Its the points case. I've gone through and tightened all the screws, replaced the o rings and where I thought there might have been a crack, I epoxied it really well and then when I let it run for a few min, oil starts seeping out from that cover. I cant seem to find out where or why. Someone please help.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>newbie to the forum</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newbietotheforum_t1716.html#1716</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi everyone,
im buying a 76 cb360 next friday.i cant wait to get it.it does need some work,how much ill find out as soon as its home.i didnt see a cb360 section so i figured this section is the closest thing to it.thats why im posting on here.well just wanted to say hi to everyone.hope you guys wont mind me asking questions about the bike.well i guess ill talk to everyone later.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Early 70&apos;s cb350 2cyl into a mid 70&apos;s cb750 frame???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/early70scb3502cylint_t1713.html#1713</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Will this work? Can I put the early 70's cb350 2cyl, into a early-mid 70's cb750 frame? if so what will it take? Who knows where I can find all this out, I know I am not the first person to try this....
I have the cb350 motor/carbs and the cb750 frame...want to make it work. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: new tires for an old bike</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtiresforanoldbi_t1697.html#1703</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks Ray,
I was fortunate enough to find a pair of tires, an IBC for the rear and a Shinko for the front that will do the trick. those conversions for the sizes are helpful, thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Front End Upgrades?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/frontendupgrades_t1702.html#1702</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What kind of front-suspensions has anyone put on their 350s?  I have a '70 CB350 Twin, and I've read of people using other forks / triple clamps.  What works here, what mods need to be done?  Which are the best?

I saw in a post that forks from a '96-'99 CBR600 can be used.  Has anyone done this?  How does this work with the drum brakes, etc.?

Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>How to shorten a 1970 Honda cb350 front end</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/howtoshortena1970hon_t1701.html#1701</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My freind is 5ft tall and she need to lower the bike. how do I go about shorten the front forks. It has the springs on the outside of legs. Thanks for any help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: new tires for an old bike</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtiresforanoldbi_t1697.html#1698</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The size tire I would put on is either a 100/90-19 or a 100/80-19 on the front and a 110/90-18 or 110/80-18 on the rear. 
Those are the way tires are measured now, with a combination of metric and SAE in the size desination.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>new tires for an old bike</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newtiresforanoldbike_t1697.html#1697</link>
	<description><![CDATA[does anybody know where to get new tires to replace the ones on my 68 Cl350? the front tire is a 3.00 by 19.00 and I cant find them anywhere]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fork oil and bearing grease</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reforkoilandbearingg_t1687.html#1696</link>
	<description><![CDATA[thanks for the reply edward! I recently learned that on the older model hondas the best thing to replace the fork oil with is ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). I havnt really been able to figure out how much to use though so I appreciate you giving me that information! I'm pretty sure I can use just about any high temperature grease on the bearings as well.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 cl350 alternator </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73cl350alternator_t1683.html#1692</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Edward!

Good to hear to the forum was of some use to you  :P 

Good luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 cb 350 for parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72cb350forparts_t1690.html#1690</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Im parting out my parts bike. Its a 72 cb350g. Havent tested all the electrical out yet but it has many parts to pass on to keep others going. Figured I would give true fans of 350 twins first shot before turning to E-bay. Im located in the Detroit, Michigan area to give someone an idea of what shipping prices would be.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fork oil and bearing grease</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reforkoilandbearingg_t1687.html#1689</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Clymer manual doesnt stay what type other than fork oil to answer any of your questions. The amount of fork oil according to Clymers is between 5.9 and 6.9 ounces. Wish I could be more help. Hopefully one of the more experienced Honda fans will be able to help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 cl350 alternator </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73cl350alternator_t1683.html#1688</link>
	<description><![CDATA[After reading more of the post in the forum found answers to all my questions!!! Thanks to those who answered on the earlier post saved alot of future headaches. Guess Im to used to working on cars, ended up just needing a good battery. Now I just need to fix a leaky float.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>fork oil and bearing grease</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/forkoilandbearinggre_t1687.html#1687</link>
	<description><![CDATA[can anyone tell me what type of fork oil is used on the front shocks of a '68 cl350 and how much to use? and the same for the type of grease used to lubricate the ball bearings in the stearing collumn as well as the rear swingarm shaft? thanks!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 350 bogging when giveing it throttle around 3k</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72350boggingwhengi_t1650.html#1684</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Clymer (might be spelled Cylmer) makes a manual for your bike. They are alright but not the best someone else posted about finding reprints of original honda manuals. I would try to get original first but if you cant find one you can get the Clymer on ebay for around $20 at bike shops they run $35.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73 cl350 alternator </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73cl350alternator_t1683.html#1683</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Any one know if they still make the tool to take the alternator off. Tried 3 jawed gear puller but not sure if Im putting pressure in the right places because it didnt move an bent the bolt I was using to get pressure on shaft.Any help would be apperciated. Also for the charging system to work does it need to have a good battery! Got bike running after sitting for 20 years. Was told everything worked when parked but if I remove jumper cables it dies out. Have an extra stator from part bike but no change, still doesnt stay running. Help!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil Leak Between head and Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilleakbetweenhead_t1537.html#1679</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks Tom, am in process of re-assembling 1971 SL350 that was given to me (engine was rebuilt, but not assembled). The manual says use o-rings, but none with it - just tried generic ones and looks to me like there is no way this will torque down properly. Am going to follow your advice and go without them.
Thanks again
Chuck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73&apos; cb350G timing problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73cb350gtimingproble_t1676.html#1676</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,
Im desperate for some advice. So many thanks for your help.
Why wont the camshaft fit into the left/right cam covers after putting in the rockers? Its as if the cam chain is too small, but its new and the right part. Also,  the tensioner is off. 
nate the perplexed 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 SL350 KICKSTART JAMMED PLEASE HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72sl350kickstartja_t1646.html#1675</link>
	<description><![CDATA[im trying to picture what it might be ,have you tried gently rotating the kickshaft in the return direction? with the bottom end back together ,try rocking the bike back and forth in gear,it might pop back in to place maybe,,good thing it didnt happen to charleton heston in the "omega man"they escaped on a sl350!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Specifications</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/specifications_t1664.html#1664</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Am probably going to purchase a CB350K2 in the near term and will have to ride it about 500 miles.  I am trying to plan the trip and would like to know the fuel capacity of the tank, Fuel octane requirement and advertised MPG.  Please respond to cballweg@yahoo.com in addition to posting response on this site.

Thanks ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350K2 On The Highway</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2onthehighwa_t1547.html#1663</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I agree with David.  I rode a 1968 CB350K2 all over the South Central USA in 1968/1969 and enjoyed every mile.  Seems to me that the speed limit was about 65 MPH in those days, and had no problems maintaing it.  

I have never understood the logic of hauling a cycle on a trailer or truck, then riding at the destination when the logical option would be to ride to the destination and enjoy the entire experience.  Remember why you bought the bike in the first place...

In any event, enjoy the ride...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>How much should i pay for a 1973 CB350G</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/howmuchshouldipayfor_t1662.html#1662</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What is the going rate on one of these beasts? Assuming tires, brakes, compression are good, needs tune up....]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 350 bogging when giveing it throttle around 3k</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72350boggingwhengi_t1650.html#1659</link>
	<description><![CDATA[have a look at the spark plug caps,they have a 5kohm resistance built in ,as they age it can go sky high (ive seen 290kohm !)that will give a sooty plug ,it cant burn correctly.they unscrew off the wire,new ones are 5 bucks ,just replace them and go over the points before you tamper with the carbs,]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 350 bogging when giveing it throttle around 3k</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72350boggingwhengi_t1650.html#1657</link>
	<description><![CDATA[well i thought it might have something to do w/ the timing or points, so i first pulled the plugs and the right plug was way black and must be running really rich compared to the other cylinder. i'm gonna look for a manual so i can figure out how to set the points and the timing. it hadn't been sitting, the guy i bought it from used it daily. just not sure why the one plug was super fouled?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;75 CL360 K1 Muffler restoration</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re75cl360k1mufflerre_t1152.html#1656</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm restoring a CL360 too. Thinking about plating the loose muffler to see if it works. I can always start over with the one that's not fixed to the pipe. Did you have any luck in reworking yours? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New air filters for a 1972 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewairfiltersfora1_t1634.html#1655</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Rachel,

I've never used those filters but I feel your pain with the old ones being destroyed. I had an extra set that I experimented on. You can replace the filter element on your old ones if you're feeling ambitious and are handy for very little money.

Here's what you do:

Go to the auto parts store and find the biggest, roundest american car air filter you can, the kind that go on older carbureted cars or trucks. The exact kind doesnt matter but you want one that is around the same width as your 350's filters (around two inches? I don't have one in front of me but it's about that size). It doesn't matter because you'll be cutting it apart anyway. If it's too wide, you can scrunch it down and chop it to the right width.

So take your old 350 filters and use a utility knife to cut the paper filter element out of them. They'll come apart and be in two halves. sand and clean all the paper remnants and glue off the insides of the metal. Then use the new filter element you cut out of the sacrificial filter you got from the store and test fit it around the perimeter of the 350's metal filter halves. You'll be able to use some blue RTV sealant (like $5.00 for a tube at the auto store) to glue the new paper accordion in place where the old one used to be. Just glue it into one side, let it dry, and then sandwich the other side on top with more RTV, and put a dictionary on top of it over night. If you're careful and take your time and measure everything right, you'll basically be rebuilding your old filters and you'll be good to go. Just make sure you go around and fill in any little gaps or spaces with more RTV so you get a proper seal. I did this and it worked perfectly.

Good luck!


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Dim headlight on 1970 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/redimheadlighton1970_t1639.html#1653</link>
	<description><![CDATA[A fully charged battery should give you about 12.7 volts. If your voltage regulator is working, you should see more than that (14 volts ??) at the battery terminals when the engine revs to 3,000 rpm or so.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 350 bogging when giveing it throttle around 3k</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72350boggingwhengi_t1650.html#1652</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If the bike had been sitting a while, my first guess would be a gummed-up carb. A first quick check would be to try opening up the throttle on each carb individually (probably easiest if the bike is up on the center stand; gently lift each of the throttle linkages). If it revs with one carb more than it does with the other, you've confirmed the problem.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 twin ingnition upgrade</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350twiningnition_t1572.html#1651</link>
	<description><![CDATA[does "boyer "make an electronic conversion for these?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 350 bogging when giveing it throttle around 3k</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72350boggingwhengive_t1650.html#1650</link>
	<description><![CDATA[so i just got this bike last week and have only been around the block a few times(no permit) and when i give it gas it bogs then shuts off. and then i can't get it started. it seems it's getting too much gas. i blew out the filters, but no go. i don't have a manual so i don't know what's up w/ the spark advance and point setup. anyone know what my problem could be?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>bad timing?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/badtiming_t1649.html#1649</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all,

I'm nearly at my wit's end with my '69 CB350. But I've learned so much from this forum, and so once again I come to you with my problem.

I've been trying to fix the timing on my bike now for two straight days (after work) with no luck. I've been following the Clymer manual and the original shop manual from '69, but the points seem to be out of whack. Both manuals tell me to line up the LF mark with the stator marker, then check the left point, which should be just opening. However its either fully open or fully closed and no amount of timing adjustment will bring it to the desired point of just starting to open.

I've read online about the timing advance cylinder (don't know what it's called) being put in 180 degrees off, but I've tried both orientations with no luck. Any ideas?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 SL350 KICKSTART JAMMED PLEASE HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72sl350kickstartjamm_t1646.html#1646</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I RECENTLY WAS GIVEN MY GRANDFATHERS SL350 EVERYTHING IS IN PRETTY GOOD CONDITION.  IT WAS STORED IN A GARAGE FOR YEARS.  BROUGHT IT HOME CLEANED THE CARBS, GAS TANK, CHANGED THE PLUGS, NEW BATTERY, AND THEN GOT IT STARTED.  WAS LETTING IT WARM UP AND IT DIED.  WENT TO KICK IT OVER AND THE KICK STARTER WOULD NOT MOVE AT ALL.  I DECIDED TO TAKE OFF THE RIGHT SIDE COVER TO EXAMINE THE GEARS(SPROCKETS) TO SEE WHAT WAS WRONG.  I COULD NOT SEE ANYTHING SO I TOKE OFF THE CLUTCH TO MORE ACCURATELY TROUBLE SHOOT.  I FOUND THAT THE BIKE IS IT NUETRAL B/C THE MAINSHAFT MOVES FREELY.  AFTER TAKING THE CLUTCH BASKET OFF I THEN TRIED TO MOVE THE KICKSTART.  IT THEN WOULD ROTATE FREELY.  ALSO THE IDLE GEAR IS MOVING FREELY.  I THEN TOKE OF THE LEFT SIDE COVER TO GET TO THE ALTERNATOR BOLT TO SEE IF THE PISTONS WERE SEIZED AND I TOKE OUT THE PLUGS TO RULE OUT A COMPRESSIN PROBLEM.  I WAS ABLE TO GET A SOCKET AROUND THE NUT AND ROTATE THE PISTONS.  I THEN PUT BACK ON THE CLUTCH BASKET AND THEN IT LOCKS UP AGAIN WHEN I TRY TO KICK THE KICKSTART BUT I CAN ROTATE THE ENTIRE UNIT WITH MY SOCKET WRENCH FROM THE OPPOSITE SIDE WITH THE ALTERNATOR BOLT.  DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS WHAT I NEED TO DO TO GET THIS BIKE MOVIN AGAIN?  PLEASE ANY SUGGESSTIONS?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 - removing rotor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350-removingroto_t1632.html#1644</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Tom,

Good to hear that you finally got it detached. 
Thanks for sharing too!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1460.html#1643</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ Obviously I stand corrected. I hope I did not cause you to much trouble, this was not my intention. I sincerely apologize.

Tom Costello]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1460.html#1642</link>
	<description><![CDATA[

Uhh, actually, it's a  diameter, 1.5 mm pitch. (ask me how I learned this!).]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 - removing rotor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350-removingroto_t1632.html#1640</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Update: it came off. The trick was wedging the rotor in place with a brass drift wedged against the exhaust. The nut loosened nicely with a breaker bar.

The earlier problem was that the rotor   drivetrain didn't have enough inertia to make the impact wrench effective.

-- tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Dim headlight on 1970 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/dimheadlighton1970cb_t1639.html#1639</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Stock bulb was too dim so I installed a hologen 50/60.  This light is also dim, high beam is just dimmer than the low beam should be and the low beam is almost useless.  My battery measures 12.3V and all the connections are clean.  The other lights seam ok, as they don't draw much power.  I have heard that these bikes aren't known for having the brightest lights.  Would an aftermarket rectifier solve my problem?  If so, any recommendations.

Thank you for shining light on this subject.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: a fuel line question from a newbie</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reafuellinequestionf_t1635.html#1638</link>
	<description><![CDATA[thanks Tom that helped a lot!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: a fuel line question from a newbie</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reafuellinequestionf_t1635.html#1637</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, Bryan

The two nipples on the tank are for the "crossover" between the two tank halves. They should be joined with an appropriate length of fuel line. The two lines coming down from the petcock go to the carbs. The one to the right carb is a bit longer. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 - removing rotor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350-removingroto_t1632.html#1636</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks, Brent.

My only concern about applying a lot of heat (as in "propane torch") is the risk of demagnetizing the rotor. Am I being paranoid?  :? 

-- Tom Jupille]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>a fuel line question from a newbie</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/afuellinequestionfro_t1635.html#1635</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So i recently picked up a 1968 cl350 as a restore project. I know very little about motorcycles and figured it was time to learn something. I know that this is a very basic question but i cannot find any diagrams or explanations as to how to how to hook up the fuel lines to the carbs. I know that there is one main line from the petcock to the right carburetor because that was hooked up when I got the bike, but there are two valves coming off the petcock as well as two small vents/valves on the bottom of the tank on either side. what do I do? and do I need to hook a line connecting the carbs together? how does the gas get from one carb to the other? I know nothing, please help! haha]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>New air filters for a 1972 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newairfiltersfora197_t1634.html#1634</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just got (two weeks ago) a CL350 as a first bike and a project. The air filters on the bike are completely shot and I was not able to get OEM ones, so now I have NOS filters like these: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RC-0412. They are not the same shape as the originals, and the original filter box is half filter/half outer cover. They are the right filters for the bike. The questions are:

1. Has anyone used these aftermarket filters on his/her bike?

2. If so, how did you fabricate covers for the filters?

I appreciate any help you can provide.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 - removing rotor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350-removingroto_t1632.html#1633</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Maybe someone in the past used high strength 'Loctite' on the bolt. If so apply heat to the bolt to soften the loctite and try the impact again. Yes, it removes counter-clockwise. I hope this helps.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 - removing rotor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350-removingrotor_t1632.html#1632</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm fixing up a '73 CB350. The starter clutch has failed (among other issues!). The problem is that I can't get the rotor bolt loose. I've hammered on it with a cordless impact wrench to no avail. So (naive questions):

1. It is left = loosen, correct?
2. Is there any trick to getting that bolt off?
3. Will I damage anything if I get out "King Kong" (450 ft-lbs air impact wrench)?

Thanks in advance!

-- Tom Jupille]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>for sale: 1971 cl350 1631 miles.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/forsale1971cl3501631_t1631.html#1631</link>
	<description><![CDATA[1971 honda CL350 $1500. 1631 original miles!! have current title, and copy of the original title from guy who bought it new. has honda shop manual, and honda wrenches in tool box. located in walden NY 12586. see ad:
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/mcy/1290190455.html

email me directly. Lanemeyer@hotmail.com]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Handlebar wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehandlebarwiring_t1549.html#1625</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You can drill the holes yourself! I've done this three times. You have to carefully mark the point where you want the holes. Use your old bars as a refrence and take care to make sure they're angled properly. Mount the new bars on the bike and loosely put the controls and levers and all on the bars and tilt them until they're are to you liking. then make reference marks. 

The right side will need the big hole for the wires to go through and also a smaller hole that a pin in the inside of the controls goes into. Just take time and mark it just right and then drill small pilot holes first and then enlarge them to the size of the holes on the stock handle bars. You might need to put the bars in a vise so they don't disembowel you as the drill bit cuts in and grabs them. I once just clamped a set of cafe bars to a table top and drilled and it came loose and tried to kill me. Put a rag or old shirt around the bars where you clamp them so you don't damage the chrome in the vise.

The other hole you'll need is in the center on the underside toward the front. Drill two half inch or so holes about 1.5 inches apart and then use a dremel to cut away the remainder so you end up with a hole shaped like an oval. This is where the wires come out and go to the the headlight shell. It's a pain getting the wires shoved through the bars. I'd reccomend putting new heat shrink on them or wrapping them in electrical tape (kinda ghetto but it works fine) because the old black covering is brittle and stiff as you know.

Also, there will be sharp jagged edges on your new holes! Make sure you file these down or your wires will get cut into and then you'll go crazy. Also, the holes you drill WILL rust, but that's life.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1560.html#1624</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This is one of those things where you just need to comb through the ignition and carbs methodically and set everything just right. I'd start by checking all connections from plugs to coils to points and make sure they're all tight and clean. Then retension the cam chain. Then set point gap and spark timing. After all that is perfect, turn to the carbs. 

Speaking of float height, I thought I'd clarify. Different carb models had different float heights. The model number is stamped into the side of each carb.

they are:

350A - 19mm
3B, 3C - 21mm
3D, 722A, 726A, 728A - 26mm

Make sure the floats don't have holes. Put them under water and check for bubbles. 

Good luck!
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Have a honda cl350 and cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehaveahondacl350and_t1598.html#1623</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Get ready for some great times! The best way to do it is just as you describe. I'm assuming you're mechanically inclined of course..

Take it all the way apart, down to the frame, and polish and paint each new part as you get to it. You can paint it yourself, but the results won't be so good unless you do that kind of thing a lot or you know someone who does. Just take your time and enjoy it. Get a shop manual and learn as you go. Be prepared to spend some money here and there though. There will probably be lots of things that need to be replaced because this thing is old. 

This will be a ton of fun and will be a very rewarding feeling once you get it running for the first time. There are lots of blogs and articles about this process if you google cb350 build.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302252&page=12

this one is pretty neat and might help or give you ideas.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Elusive Right Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelusiverightcylind_t1620.html#1622</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Okay, if the coil is melting I'd say it is bad. Luckily you can get them on ebay for cheap! So I'd do that first. 

Secondly, you have to be methodical about the ignition system on these bikes. Or probably any bike, I only know these.. Anyway, after getting the coil replaced, use you voltmeter to check all the connections one by one from the plug boots to the coil to the condenser to the points, etc. Any one of them loose or dirty can make it run rough or not at all. You said you took the right point off to clean it up. Thats good, but did you re-set the point gap and the spark timing correctly? You have to do it just right and it takes some practice to get it done quickly. 

Of course the problem could be the right carb being dirty or gummed up, but we'll not worry about that for now..

As for the slotted stud you messed with, your curiosity got the better of you. Those studs are the rocker arm shafts which have an off center, or eccentric, section in the middle that the rocker arm fits over. By turning it you changed the valve clearance, which is the tiny gap between the rocker arm and the tip of the valve stem. This needs to be set precisely, and I could explain it all here or you can just go to this website and download and print out the shop manual for this bike:

http://www.freepdfmanual.com/2008/12/02/honda-cb250-cl250-cb350-and-cl350-workshop-manual

It has all your answers!

Good luck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Elusive Right Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/elusiverightcylinder_t1620.html#1620</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Purchased a '71 cl350 and I have it running only on the left cylinder.  I've done some research and tried a few things.  The right side coil gets very hot when turning over and check spark with the plugs out.  Maybe it gets hot just having the key on, also there is some sort of wax the drips off the coil when it's real hot. No spark on right side....I've put the multimeter to the lead going to the coil I think I have to have the point open for this to happen.  Anyway, I just want to make sure i'm using the correct terms here.  Is it possible that the coil is bad?  There is some wear on the point to the right side after I took the thing off and tried to polish it up a bit.  I didn't look at the left one because it was working.  Is there a better way to trouble shoot this....

Also there are two studs with a slot and a nut on them under the cover to the points...of course I had to to see what the did.  They rotate about 180 deg and can move in and out a bit.  Hope I didn't mess things up too bad.

Any advise is appreciated.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Right cylinder runs rough</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerightcylinderrunsr_t1607.html#1618</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Tom, Thanks for the response. I did everything you mentioned (thank God for a spare parts bike)to no avail. I finally hit on the solution this weekend. The o-rings on the jet retainers in the float bowl weren't sealing! The vacuum on the primary and secondary jets just wasn't happening like it should. I found out I had the same problem on my "known good carb"! The bike runs great now :-)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Right cylinder runs rough</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerightcylinderrunsr_t1607.html#1615</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brent,
Check to make sure the vacuum slide is working properly if you haven't already. An easy way to do this is to remove the air cleaner then look down the throat of the carburetor as you open the throttle wide open with the engine running, you should see the vacuum slide start to rise at about 5000 RPM. It should come back down as you close the throttle. If not the diaphragm is bad or the slide could be sticking in the carb body. If it checks OK the next thing I would suspect would be a bad ignition coil.Also the ignition timing is set separately on each cylinder. I am assuming that this has been checked.
Good Luck :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Re-chroming CB350 fenders?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rere-chromingcb350fe_t1606.html#1614</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Try Browns Plating, they are in Paducah, Kentucky and they only plate motorcycle parts.
 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cl350 starter clutch rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350starterclutch_t796.html#1609</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I know this is an old post but just in case someone needs this info: The rear axle of the bike has the right threads and will work as a removal tool if you have access to an extra one. Put the bike on the center stand, block the rear wheel and put the bike in gear. If you don't have an extra axle try putting a strap wrench around the stator.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Right cylinder runs rough</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rightcylinderrunsrou_t1607.html#1607</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've been doing bikes for years (but new to Honda twins) and this one has me stumped. I rebuilt the carbs on a '72 350 twin and the right carb rev's on the low speed jet but goes blahhh at higher RPMs.  and it did the same. I checked the compression, checked the valve clearances, replaced the intake boot, installed new plugs, etc. I caught a blurb in another forum discussion about the 'timing being off for that cylinder'. Are they timed independently? This bike sat since 1984 but is in general overall excellent condition. Any thoughts? Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re-chroming CB350 fenders?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re-chromingcb350fend_t1606.html#1606</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all,

The fenders on my CB350K1 have been painted silver, but I'm hoping to return them to the original chrome. Any recommendations on places or rough pricing ideas? I'm pretty sure this isn't something I can do on my own. I'm near Albany, NY (USA) if this helps.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Have a honda cl350 and cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/haveahondacl350andcb_t1598.html#1598</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Im 18 and looking to fix up my honda cl350...but right now its in pieces.
Not really sure where to start so I thought that I would just take it the rest of the way apart and clean it all up. Then just start building it back together...any suggestions about how to best do this? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repleasehelp_t1588.html#1593</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Joel,
You may also try to find a 350 that has all it's parts together and study it as far as how the harness is routed and were the connections are . As far as the four wires from the alternator check between the pink and yellow and then between the pink and white (pink is a common wire on this alternator coil)you should  have a small voltage reading at these while kicking the engine over. Output from the alternator is normally checked with the engine running but you should get some readings at cranking speed. The light green/red wire is for the neutral switch and you should have no current there.
Good luck :!: 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repleasehelp_t1588.html#1592</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would goto ebay and buy another wiring harness like I did for my CL350. I scored a harness for $8.00 and it had a signal flasher & rectifier hooked up to it that were better than mine.
Goto ebay and find everything you need.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repleasehelp_t1588.html#1591</link>
	<description><![CDATA[here is some photos of it if thats any help to yous,

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thedjphotography/3683481708/" title="IMGP0400 by D &amp;amp; J Photography, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2542/3683481708_2ef54463e1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMGP0400" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thedjphotography/3683476742/" title="IMGP0397 by D &amp;amp; J Photography, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2660/3683476742_8cdac41ba5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMGP0397" /></a>]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repleasehelp_t1588.html#1590</link>
	<description><![CDATA[oh thanks, by the way with the four wires coming from the alternater only one has current going threw it, is this normal]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repleasehelp_t1588.html#1589</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Joel,

You might want to start 
Plenty of diagrams enlisted  :!: 

Good luck  :roll: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/pleasehelp_t1588.html#1588</link>
	<description><![CDATA[im restoring my dads old cb350twin, and all the electricals were pulled off of it like 10 years ago so it could be painted and i dont have a clue were they all go now, so if someone could tell me what goes were with like a diagram or something that would be appriated, im not worried about lights or starer motor yet. i just want it to run,, cheers]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: What parts am I missing?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewhatpartsamimissin_t1579.html#1584</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Shawn,
You can get some clamp on air filters from a company called Sudco. They deal in carburetors for all types of motorcycles,new and old. Also K&N filters makes clamp ons for motorcycles. You can check the both out on the web. You may be able to find the stock air cleaner housings at a motorcycle salvage yard. The brass fittings on the bottom of the float bowls are the carb overflow drains and they originally had a hose running from them to the back of engine. The fitting on the top of the engine is the crank case breather and it normally had a hose on it that ran down in back of the engine below the swing arm and was just left open on the end.
Happy trails   :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: stock air box vs. pods</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restockairboxvspods_t1575.html#1582</link>
	<description><![CDATA[if the filters look like they do filter air ok,try raising the needle in the slide one notch at a time]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350K2 On The Highway</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2onthehighwa_t1547.html#1581</link>
	<description><![CDATA[just make sure the bikes ready for it ,take some small tools for like plugs ,chain adjustmentsit on 55mph and enjoy it!!what happened in the "old"days ,some big distances were covered on lesser machines ,,plan a few stops and stretch ,im jealous i cant go .]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1560.html#1580</link>
	<description><![CDATA[you might want to try the spark plug caps,,they should have 5kohms resistance ,,if you dont have a multimeter just buy new caps they are about five bucks each ,when they get old the resistance value can go up too high and cause missfiring and stuttering intermittently ,some times only when hot.the spark may look good but under compression it can go all weak in these conditions,go right over the contact points aswell ,the points may be fine but the condensors might be soggy if they are old ,,these are cheap aswell ,some auto ones can be used,,getting the ignition tip top first is easier than pulling carbs down over and over!! the float height isnt real important so long as it isnt really out..good luck.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>What parts am I missing?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/whatpartsamimissing_t1579.html#1579</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Helping a friend on her 71 CB 350. Came as basket case. Only messed with Harleys and a 83 Yamaha 650 before. Don't have book or info on this bike.

1. Doesn't have air cleaners or a box. Any place to get them or just do clamp-ons? Where can I get those, carbs are 50mm where they clamp on.

2. Is there supposed to be a hose between carbs on the little 1/8 in nipples on bottom?

3. On rear of right side cylinder these is a 1/2 in or so piece where a hose clamps on. Is this for blow-by. Should it have a hose or filter there?

Thanks for any help,
Shawn


Clarksville, TN, USA]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New to honda cb350 questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtohondacb350que_t1186.html#1578</link>
	<description><![CDATA[lol, didn't notice how old original post was... oops]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New to honda cb350 questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtohondacb350que_t1186.html#1577</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just picked up a honda cb350 and have a few questions because this is my first bike.
1. Best way to clean and seal tank, I am not sure if it is rust so is it necessary to seal? I have read to get cleaner and bb's and just shake it up then rinse it then put alcohol to dry up the water then seal it.
2. Is there anyway to clean the air filter? It runs but the carb over flowed due to a faulty float and soaked the filter with gas.
3. What is the threading on the bottom side of the petcock valve for? There appears to be threads and a screen but nothing attached.
4. Best place to buy tires? They are in good condition tread wise but have some dry rot and I want to be safe and get some new tires.
Thats all for now. Thanks

1. Depending on how bad the tank is determines on what to do. I just did the tank on a 71 CB350 for a friend that was horrible. First remove petcock & use a hose,2 clamps & a pipe plug to block it off;

If tank isn't bad, fill it with hot water & industrial degreaser (Simple Green) and a about 10 - 15 clean nuts (about 1/4in or 5mm size). Shake tank to break any rust loose. Tilt tank up and remove pipe plug from hose you installed over petcock threads. Drain tank into a bucket with a strong magnet. The magnet should have the nuts and any large rust attached to give you an idea of what came out. Rinse tank with water till you have no suds. Then rinse the tank with alcohol or acetone. Re assemble & DO NOT leave it exposed to moisture.

IF the tank is bad, do above steps first. Then use a rust convertor/metal etcher over night. Rinse tank. Then rinse tank with solvent for type of sealant using. Then seal. KREEM makes a decent system to seal tanks. Depending on temp watch closing  & don't let sealant pool or dry to drips inside take. A low pressure compressor will help. be careful not to let it block off the hole for petcock or the small cross over tubes underneath. Swish the sealant over that area but don't let it sit pooled there for long.

2. Air dry & compressor like other suggested.

3. The bottom of the petcock is supposed to have a bowl on it with a hex bottom to thread it in.. Find it or buy it (good luck, tough to find, no idea where). When you have petcock off to do tank, take it apart & clean it also. The nut that attaches to the tank also threads on to petcock. It had reverse threads on that side (clockwise/right to loosen). there is an o-ring in there. also take the screws off the front and clean under the valve. There is a 4hole gasket there also 3 for fuel & 1 to hold it in place. Take it out to access to paths fuel takes in it. Pipe cleaners and carb cleaner work good on this.

4. Not sure where you are to give a suggestion on tires.

Best of luck & enjoy,
Shawn]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>stock air box vs. pods</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/stockairboxvspods_t1575.html#1575</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1971 CB350. The stock airbox has been removed and very porous metal screen pods put in their place. The bike has all the symptoms of running lean (surging, pinging, inconsistent idle, etc.). Since these are CV carbs, does it make sense to return to the stock air box to make the carbs work better. It's a big issue with 4 cylinder bikes with CVs, but I don't know about small twins.

Thanks,
J.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 twin ingnition upgrade</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350twiningnitionup_t1572.html#1572</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Has anyone found a workable CDI upgrade to the CB350 igition system? I'm finding alot of CHEAP coils I could use, but CDI coils have a common ground between the primary and secondary unlike the point sytem.

Maybe I'll need to design a system myself?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1560.html#1571</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Nathan,
The factory specifications for the float height is 19  /- .5mm. If you had to set them to a higher number and it ran better it is probably running to rich. Another thing you could check if you haven't already is the battery condition. If the battery is low or in poor condition it could cause it to act like it is running rich.

Tom ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1560.html#1567</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Tom,

Thanks for your advice. The rubber boots were in good order when I rebuilt the carbs last week, but I'll pull them again and recheck. Yesterday I set the floats really high (27mm on the right and then 28mm on the left) and it still runs very poorly - even worse than before - but at least now the spark plug tips aren't solid black after a few minutes running and are instead mostly tan. Now I'm wondering, though, if the engine is starved of fuel instead of getting too much. 

I'll post an update after I get through the electrical system and check the rubber bits, but any further advice or ideas would be most appreciated. 

Thanks again,

Nathan


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1560.html#1566</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Nathan,
Did you check the throttle slides? The diaphragms could be torn or have hardened from age. One way to check them is to lift the slide up through the throat of the carb, it should come back down all by itself when you let go of it. If it doesn't the diaphragm has probably hardened and is bad and will cause the slide to stick open. You will have to check the diaphragms visually for tears or cracks, these can keep the   slides from opening properly. Also did you check the air cleaners? I have seen these cause poor running conditions when slightly dirty.
Good luck !   :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1560.html#1565</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've decided to work through the ignition/valves per Clymer 1) cam chain tensioner 2) valve clearance 3) breaker points 4) ignition timing.  If that doesn't work, I might just throw a tantrum, and then start messing with the float adjustment - although when I rebuilt the carbs the measurements were as spot-on as my standard ruler could measure.

Does anyone have any thoughts before I spend my afternoon doing something that may or may not be a waste of time? Help? Please?!

Cheers,

Nathan


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebuiltcarbsbutstill_t1560.html#1560</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi All,

I bought my first bike, a '71 CB350, a couple weeks back. It ran well for the first 100 miles. I changed the oil and on the way home it began running poorly, coughing when I poured on the throttle.  The oil change could be a coincidence, but then again, maybe not. 

Did some research and rebuilt the carbs, hoping that would take care of it - but the bike is running just as poorly as it had before. I figure that it is running too rich because 1) the spark plugs are black even after a couple minutes idle 2) exhaust note is very "poppy" when running, and 3) choke air intake needs to be left wide open, else the bike dies immediately. 

What is the solution? Do I need to adjust the floats? (But this doesn't seem to explain the sudden onset of the issue, as both floats are in good working order, with no leaks). Can anyone help? 

Thanks,

Nathan


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Only running on the left cylinder, Ignition?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reonlyrunningonthele_t1473.html#1559</link>
	<description><![CDATA[  I have a 72 cb 350 and when i first got it it would only run on the left cylinder.  After changing the ignition coil twice i took off the left side cover and below and to the rear of the battery is the rectifier plug that honda inconveniently placed right under the battery overflow.  the hose was missing and it corroded the plug check that.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Handlebar wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehandlebarwiring_t1549.html#1557</link>
	<description><![CDATA[On the flip side of this thread, if I have a set of after market handlebars with no holes for wiring, is there a set of hand controls, brakes, throttle tube, etc that I can buy that would work?

In my case, I have a 74 CB350 K4 twin but I bought some clubman handlebars for a cafe racer style look.  I don't want to drill holes in the clubmans and would rather buy some brakes, throttle controls, etc from another bike and put those one.  Of course, I'll need brake handles that work with cables and not hydraulics and wires that run outside of the bars. Any suggestions?

Sam.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Handlebar wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehandlebarwiring_t1549.html#1555</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks, Ray! I guess that's another thing to add to the list of parts to find. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350K2 On The Highway</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2onthehighwa_t1547.html#1554</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would put the bike in the back of a Tacoma and drive it up there then ride when I got there.
3 hours on a 350 will be murder on your ass, back and kidneys.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Handlebar wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehandlebarwiring_t1549.html#1553</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You must have an aftermarket handle bar on your bike.
A stock handle bar has holes in it for running the wires to the harness in the headlight.
You could try cutting the holes in the handle bar yourself which I would never do, or you can goto ebay and buy the correct handle bar for your bike.
My 71 CL350K-3 needs a handle bar because the chrome is in very very bad shape but, I do not buy one from ebay for some reason. Maybe because it is such a PITA to run the wires through the bar to begin with, that really sucks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1445.html#1552</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Concerning the starter clutch, sometimes the starter spins freely as if the clutch hasn't engaged and other times it seems the clutch does engage but the starter doesn't have enough muscle to turn over the engine.
Perhaps i have two problems. Can a starter motor just be weak?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1445.html#1551</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The battery is new from Honda, so i feel pretty good about that.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Handlebar wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/handlebarwiring_t1549.html#1549</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all,

I bought a 1969 CB350K1 in January and have almost finished rebuilding it. My question though, is this: when running the wires from the handlebar controls (horn, headlight, turn signal, starter) into the headlight, how do they get there? I bought a NOS control, but there doesn't seem to be a way to run the wires out. Do I have to drill a hole in the controller? I don't see a holes in the handlebar to run the wires through there. Anyone out there have one to check?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350K2 On The Highway</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350k2onthehighway_t1547.html#1547</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone, forgive me if this is the wrong place to post this question. 

I just put my '70 CB350 on the road. I've had it for a few years, picked it up for free from a woman who's husband had rode it. The last time it was on the road was around '82. It seems to be in pretty good mechanical shape. I took the short ride to the shop for tires on it and it felt pretty good. 

Here's my question. For a long trip, what's a safe speed to maintain on the highway for it? It's about a 3 hr ride up to Americade, and I've been told that for a long ride one should keep the speed down because of the stress on the top end of the 2cyl. I'm sort of debating whether to take it for such a long ride right away. 

Any constructive insight/comments are greatly appreciated, thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Tail light and turn signal problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/retaillightandturnsi_t1541.html#1544</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Robert,
The brown wire should run from the tail to the ignition switch on this model.At the ignition switch the brown wire connects to the brown/white wire witch goes to the headlight switch. Check to make sure you have power at the brown/white wire from the headlight switch once it is turned on, if not the switch may be bad. As for the turn signals go it sounds like an open in the circuit. You want to check  continuity from the bulb socket to the connector at the end of the wire. The light blue wire is for the right turn signal and the orange is for the left. You also want to check the ground side by checking continuity between the bulb socket and the green wire from the main harness. If they have low or no continuity check for corroded connectors or broken wires.
I hope this can help. :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;71 CB350 Fails To Shift</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350failstoshif_t1540.html#1543</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Nathan, 
From the symptoms you describe it does sound like the shift lever linkage is the problem. Try rotating the shifter joint one spline counter clockwise on the shift spindle shaft and then if necessary adjust the shift linkage rod to get a proper shift lever height. I hope this works for you.  :) 
Happy riding!
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil Leak Between head and Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilleakbetweenhead_t1537.html#1542</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Pat,
The torque spec. that you used for the cyl. head is correct but on the 350 twins the oil flows up the rear outside studs to the cyl. head. Honda did not use o-rings on the head gasket on this engine and recommended that new gaskets be put on dry with no sealer. If you have to use a sealer I have had good results with Copper Coat gasket sealer. When using it make sure you let the sealer dry before installing the gasket. You want to pin point exactly were the oil leak is originating from in  order to help determine what needs to be done. Try retorquing the head. Loosen all the head nuts then torque in two stages,first at half torque then at full torque starting from the inside nuts to the outside in a crisscross pattern, also make sure the upper engine mount bolt is loose while doing this. I hope this helps.
Happy Trails. :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Tail light and turn signal problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/taillightandturnsign_t1541.html#1541</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just got my grandpa's 71 CB350 on the road again after sitting for 20 years! Its a blast! I was concentrating mostly on the mechanical issues of the bike and didn't pay too much attention to electrical issues. Well, now that its on the road, my attention turns towards the electrical problems it has. 

First of all, let me say that the following problems could be related, however, I suspect that they are two separate problems.

The first problem is with the tail light. It is not lighting. The brake light is fine(on the rear brake, but not on the front :( ), but the tail light does not light at all, ever. I did some troubleshooting and the problem IS NOT from the brown connector in the headlight to the tail light. It works as long as there is a hot wire hooked up. The problem is, there is no corresponding brown wire(male) to hook up to it! I unplugged everything in the head light to try and find something that I put together wrong, but did not find the illusive missing male wire!

My second problem is with the turn signals. My back lights turn on, but do not blink, and my front ones do not turn on at all. Both front and rear turn signals used to work perfectly, however they have recently stopped. Both side are grounded well, and they are both receiving electricity. Everything I have looked at suggests they should work. Good, ground, good hot wire, etc. My dad(who has been helping me on the bike) insists that it is not the turn signal relay, but I am suspicious of it anyway. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas on this issue?

So here's a recap:

1.) Does anyone know where the missing (male) tail light wire might be/if it is a different color than the brown female wire that leads directly back to the tail light?

2.) Could the turn signal problem be the turn signal relay/if not, what might the problem be?


Thank you in advance for the help!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;71 CB350 Fails To Shift</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cb350failstoshift_t1540.html#1540</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi All,

I bought and then rode my first bike home a few days ago, and suffered my first mechanical difficulty the next day. As this CB350 is my first bike, I thought I'd ask for a bit of advice to help me get it back on the road - my Clymer won't be here for a few more days. What follows is a description of what happened, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction, or at least tell me which steps I should take first.

I attempted to adjust the clutch cable tension woth the tensioner at the base of the clutch lever. This seemed to go smoothly. I took her out for a quick spin to test, everything was working properly, and then the clutch cable seemed to "snap" - insomuch as the lever went completely slack, with no tension on it at all. I got it home, took off the clutch cover plate, adjusted the tensioner on the plate and the tensioner on the base of the cable. This seemed to get the clutch lever working properly. However, when I jumped on to give her another spin, she refused to sift from neutral to second - she will only shift in between first and neutral, and will not go any higher.

I've determined that the issue is not the orientation of the shifter (I thought I may have oriented it too low when I put the clutch plate back on, therefore not allowing enough upward pressure to shift). 

Can anyone help me? What should I do first, as I'd very much like to be riding this weekend?

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Oil Leak Between head and Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/oilleakbetweenheadan_t1537.html#1537</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I put my engine back together and I now have an oil leak between the head and cylinder. The oil leak is on the left side of the bike. 

I used all new gaskets when I put it back together and torqued to factory specs (14ft-lbs if I recall correctly). My gasket kit did not include orings for around the front locating dowels, and I am thinking this is where it is leaking from. I know that those stud holes (front left outter and front right outter) are used as an oil passage as well. I did a compression test and pulled ~172psi on each cylinder, I am confident that the gasket was not leaking around the cylinder.

Are there o-rings that go around the locating dowels on the front outter two? Should I put orings there so that I may prevent a leak? Should I put a gasket compound there instead of o-rings?

It may depend on how large the holes are on my new gasket, but figured I would ask. I do not know how large they are yet in relation the locating dowels. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How do you remove left side crankcase cover on CL350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowdoyouremoveleft_t1528.html#1534</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Great info, thanks.

I am not going to have a chance for the next while to work on this, maybe even for two weeks, a hectic schedule to say the least.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How do you remove left side crankcase cover on CL350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowdoyouremoveleft_t1528.html#1532</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yes, you can let the clutch cable stay with the cover or you can remove it by unhooking it from the clutch lifter on the backside of the cover.
Also watch out for the steel ball bearing that fits between the clutch push rod and the clutch lifter as this can sometimes fall out during disassembly.There really is nothing else under the cover you should have to deal with.
Happy riding. :!: 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How do you remove left side crankcase cover on CL350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowdoyouremoveleft_t1528.html#1531</link>
	<description><![CDATA[so then, it will hang by the clutch cable?

I suppose it is possible to be hanging by the dowell.

There was a tight fitting dowell on the front cover that i was able to manage.  I guess the potential for internal linkage was making me cautious.

Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How do you remove left side crankcase cover on CL350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowdoyouremoveleft_t1528.html#1530</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Greg,
Once you have the shift linkage and the four cover bolts removed the cover should just come off by hand, if not there is a dowel pin on the lower side of the cover that can cause it to stick because it has become corroded. In that case use some penetrating oil on the dowel area and then some vigorous wiggling should get it off. Good luck. :)

Tom ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: carb problems (I think)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarbproblemsithink_t1525.html#1529</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brit,
It could be a few things causing the problem. You should first check to see if there is a air leak between the carburetor and the manifold and/or the manifold and the cylinder head.This could cause it to run lean. If they are good the next  thing you should check is the ignition timing on that cylinder.If the timing is retarded it can cause the symptoms you described. Also check the float level on that carburetor, if it's low it can cause that cylinder to run lean. I hope this helps. Happy riding.   :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>How do you remove left side crankcase cover on CL350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/howdoyouremoveleftsi_t1528.html#1528</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm talking about the rear cover of course, the front one with the stator comes off easy enough, but i need to use a bungee to hold the weight of the assembly off the wiring.  

I'm trying to get into the starter clutch is my reasoning for removing the rear cover and then eventually the front cover.

I am not sure what I'm being hung up on, if it is internal linkage or if it is the clutch cable.

Also, if there are any tips and tricks not to screw thisup will be welcomed!

Thanks,
Greg
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>carb problems (I think)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/carbproblemsithink_t1525.html#1525</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 72 cl350, and when I attempt to start it, the right side runs fine, but the left will run a very short amount of time, make a popping type sound that sounds like it's coming from the carb, cut out, and then do the whole thing again. Once when it did this, the carb actually kicked back off of the intake boot. I think it's a carb problem, though i've cleaned everything and all the jets and passages seem clear, though I could very well be wrong. Any ideas?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Tire sizes </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/tiresizes_t1523.html#1523</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm cleaning up my old '71 CB350, and I've been reading up on Avon AM26 Road Rider tires. Stock fronts would be 90/90-18, and stock rears would be 100/90-18, but could I go just a tad bigger on both without clearance problems? I know I had a CL175 before and I don't recall what size tire I put on the back, but I had to take the chain guard off to use it, which kept it from passing inspection!  D'oh!  

I'm just thinking about 100/90-18 for the front, and 110/90-18 for the rear.  Anyone try it?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cl 350 Exhaust assembly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350exhaustassemb_t1406.html#1522</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Did you ever find a solution? This week I'm ordering a new Dunstall-style exhaust for my CB350, which currently has a '68 or '69 CL350 exhaust on it. I'm planning on listing the CL setup on Ebay when it comes off, so let me know if you still need that bracket and I can just sell it without it.  I'll also be selling a nice but faded red '71 CB350 gas tank, so if anyone's nebbing around on the forum and needs one, let me know.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CB350 K1 parts help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cb350k1partshe_t1474.html#1521</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've seen a few '69 CB and CL 350 fenders on Ebay this past week or so with the reflector, while I shopped around for a '71 CL fender for my CB350 (I'm not of fan of the skinny fender mounts).  I even thought about getting one of those with the reflector, for more vintage goodness, but decided against it.  Heck, I even saw an NOS CL350 fender on there - never installed! My method is to get on Ebay, put in a search, narrow it down by catagory, sort the results by price or ending soonest or whatever, and then just bookmark it and keep the link on the toolbar (with Mozilla, not Internet Explorer, but they all work basically the same).  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cb 350 K4 Tank</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k4tank_t1366.html#1520</link>
	<description><![CDATA[There are a handful of products you could use to fix it; I think Kreem would probably be your best bet.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: noooob to cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renoooobtocb350_t1514.html#1515</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Use motorcycle oil 10 w 40 just like it says on the dip stick. 
I use Castrol 10 w 40 semi synthetic motorcycle oil in my 71 CL350 and just changed it again this morning. Will change it again next week too because it was so unbelievably dirty today and it only had 250 miles on it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>noooob to cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/noooobtocb350_t1514.html#1514</link>
	<description><![CDATA[just bought a 71 cb350 ...quick tune up ..put new wires and plugs ...new tank ...and am in the process of rebuilding the carbs ...my question is im gonna change the oil and was planning on using 10w 40 ...but it crossed my mind wen i went to go buy motorcycle garde that mabye i should run regular because im not sure what was available in 71 but im guessing they designed it to run on regular 10w 40 ...but i def dont wanna mess up the clutch .....any body got an idea??]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New to honda cb350 questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtohondacb350que_t1186.html#1513</link>
	<description><![CDATA[just bought a 71 cb350 ...put new wires and plugs ...new tank ...and am in the process of rebuilding the carbs ...my question is im gonna change the oil and was planning on using 10w 40 ...but it crossed my mind wen i went to go buy motorcycle garde that mabye i should run regular because im not sure what was available in 71 but im guessing they designed it to run on regular 10w 40 ...but i def dont wanna mess up the clutch .....any body got an idea??]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: My 71 CL350K3 Scrambler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remy71cl350k3scrambl_t1508.html#1512</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Here is my little CL on Mulholland Hwy up from the Rock Store.
Picture taken by www.rockstorephotos.com {Paul}
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: My 71 CL350K3 Scrambler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remy71cl350k3scrambl_t1508.html#1510</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It looks good! The stock mufflers really set it off! It will make a great ride for someone. :)

Tom ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 cl350 Ignition Coil.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cl350ignitioncoi_t1480.html#1509</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I followed Bill's advice and....





Ray - 

Two of each -
Coil  # Part #17-6805
wires # Part #23-2906
Caps # Part #23-3117



I had to fab a couple of little flat  brackets to adapt them to the stock coil mounts, then it slipped right into place.
New Condensors got mounted off on the frame nearby.
More details here - this is a PDF file, might take a minute to load.



Provides fat blue spark, great stuff, now igntion is out of the equation. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>My 71 CL350K3 Scrambler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/my71cl350k3scrambler_t1508.html#1508</link>
	<description><![CDATA[For the past few months I have been messing with this 71 Scrambler trying to make her road worthy and presentable so I can sell her and buy another old Honda to revive.



She is starting to look good and is almost done as far as I am going to fix her. 
The next item is new headlight ears which I am going to install today.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ignision coils</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reignisioncoils_t1501.html#1504</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Travis,


You mean something like ?
 :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>ignision coils</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/ignisioncoils_t1501.html#1501</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am looking for a new or used set of coils for 71 cl350 scrambler. Dose anyone know where to get these or of any place that is making new ones?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: $600 for 2 1972 Honda CL350 1 is a scrambler`</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re600for21972hondacl_t779.html#1500</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Can you send me some pictures of the bikes? I am interested in them. 
redsky42o@hotmail.com]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: $600 for 2 1972 Honda CL350 1 is a scrambler`</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re600for21972hondacl_t779.html#1499</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Can you send me some pictures of the bikes? I am interested in them. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Stator problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restatorproblems_t1496.html#1498</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brit!
Stator output should be about 15vac at idle (1200 rpm) between the pink and white wires from the stator and 18vac at idle between the pink and yellow wires. At 3000 rpm the voltage the voltage between the pink and white wires should increase to 35vac and between the pink and yellow wires it should increase to 40vac. This test must be performed with the stator unplugged from the main harness. You should allow yourself  /-10% with these spec's. You can also do some static checks by testing for continuity between the pink and white wires and the pink and yellow. You should have continuity between these wires.If you don't have continuity on either test the stator is bad. Also check to see if the stator is grounded out by checking between the white wire and the engine block and the yellow wire and the engine block with your ohm meter,it should read OFL,if there is any resistance indicated the stator is bad. Make sure the engine is at operating temperature while doing the tests. Happy riding  :D 

Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Stator problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/statorproblems_t1496.html#1496</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have been having trouble recently with my alternator on a 72 cl350, and i suspect the stator. However, i want to test it before replacing it, but i have no idea what it should be putting out. I have a multimeter, but does anyone know what kind of voltage/amperage i should be getting? Any help is greatly appreciated.
-Brit]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB350 oil leak - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilleak-hel_t1486.html#1490</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you so much.  I believe the seal is gone.  The only thing I can see is the pin through the side of the crankcase and what looks to be a bearing on the inside of the crankcase.  I guess the seal fell out riding it home, or when the pin was bent?  I will get the parts tomorrow and go at it.  Thanks again!  Really appreciate the help.


Brett ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB350 oil leak - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilleak-hel_t1486.html#1489</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Brett, you should be able to pull the rod out by hand, just grab the end of it and pull. If the rod is bent really bent bad it may be stuck so you may have to grab it with a pliers and pull it out. It's possible the oil seal might still be OK because with the rod being bent it is not centered properly in the seal casing it to leak. With a new rod it might stop leaking. If not you can use a cotter pin remover to pull the seal out. Put the point of the cotter pin puller inside the hole of the seal just enough to hook the back side of it then you should be able to pry it out. Hope this helps. :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB350 oil leak - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilleak-hel_t1486.html#1488</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you Tom!  I appreciate the help.  Next question.  How the heck to I get the rod and seal out?  Does it pull straight out?  I am affriad to pull it out without breaking something else.  I sure hope it is that easy?  I was affriad I would have to pull the entire engine out to replace the seal?  I can provide a picture if that would help?



Thanks!


Brett]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB350 oil leak - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilleak-hel_t1486.html#1487</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Bret,The post you refer to is actually the clutch lifter rod and it should not be bent. Because the engine drive sprocket is so close to the lifter rod on this engine if the drive chain is excessively loose and/or the chain was thrown, it can bend the lifter rod. You can pull the lifter rod out from where you see it and not disturb anything in the clutch. Once the rod is out you can pry the old lifter rod seal out and install a new one.I have found that it helps to radius the edge of the crankcase where the seal fits using some emery cloth, this will help prevent the new seal from tearing on the outside edge during installation. Drive the new seal in until it is flush with the crankcase. Install a good lifter rod and once it's back together you should also readjust the clutch.  Happy riding. :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 CB350 oil leak - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cb350oilleak-help_t1486.html#1486</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Good day all.  I am new to the Honda world.  I just bought a 71 honda CB350.  Ran great on the way home.  Took it out for a spin the same day, and it started leaking oil from the crankcase (left side).  I went and got a new crankcase gasket, out it on and started her up.  Still leaks.  I pulled the rear crank case panel off, and I noticed that the oil was coming from the clutch post seal (post that clutch lever slides over when you put the panel on).  Also, it appears that the clutch post may be bent?  I don't know if it is supposed to be bent that way or not?  How do I replace the seal?  Do I have to remove the right side cover and go in from that side, or do I have to pull the engine and replace the seal (or all of the seals while I am in there?)?

I bought a Clymers manual, but it hasn't gotten to me yet.  I am hoping that it will answer all of my future questions.  I am trying to get the bike in shape for the spring.  Can someone please help?


Thanks!

Brett  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>simplifying wiring on my cafe project</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/simplifyingwiringonm_t1482.html#1482</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hello all,
just hoping someone could tell me... i want to minimize the wiring harness i'm rebuilding to remove the signals and starter lines, no problems here, but also want to take off the ignition switch and reconnect this to be a more subtle switch using the preexisting turn signal switch. ie left turn being the usual first position on the key switch, right turn being full lights and ignition.

keep anyone trying to steal it confused, shed some weight, and streamline things a little.

any idea how to do this? even if the switch just operates on an off setting would be fine too -  just dont know how to run the wiring.

it would appear the fused red wire could go into the left switch cluster, black and brown run off of both positions and the white and brown combo off just the right as well? 

feasable?

thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 cl350 Ignition Coil.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cl350ignitioncoil_t1480.html#1480</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I need to get 2 new coils for my bike and I was doing some research and found out I can use any coil (same volts and olms) from car. The auto ones are about 2 times bigger. Has anyone heard of this and if so, where can I mount them?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: making new gaskets</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remakingnewgaskets_t1477.html#1478</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,

You should take great care when selecting your gasket material.
You can probably get materials from .
Or contact the ppl from  for info on which material to use.

good luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>making new gaskets</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/makingnewgaskets_t1477.html#1477</link>
	<description><![CDATA[my old 72 cl350, as far as i know, has all original gaskets, and most are actually working fine, but my left engine crankcase cover gasket recently cracked and started leaking oil when running. rather then buying new oem gaskets, i thought it would be much cheaper, and easier to find, to make my own out of sheets of gasket material. i was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on thickness, i was thinking 1/32, 1/16 seems too thick. also, what type of gasket material should i use? will just plain old rubber work, or should i get a different or synthetic material due to the engine getting hot when running. i'd like to buy a material that would work for not only the engine crankcase, but also other gaskets, like carbs, if possible. any advice would be much appreciated! thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Only running on the left cylinder, Ignition?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reonlyrunningonthele_t1473.html#1475</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Edy,Have you verified that you do not have spark on the right cylinder? An easy way to do this is to pull the spark plug cap off the plug and put a spare plug in it, make sure the base of the plug is grounded to the engine by laying it on the cylinder head then crank the engine over and you should see a spark at the tip of the plug. If you do not check to see if you have voltage at the points. The points that are on the right side of the points plate with the blue wire going to them are for the right cylinder. With the points open you should be reading battery voltage at the spring on the points. With the points closed the voltage should drop to almost zero, if it doesn't drop the points are probably dirty. If the points are OK check continuity of the coil by disconnecting from the harness and checking between the blue and black/white wires,you should have continuity.If not the coil has an open winding and will have to be replaced. If you haven't already,make sure the compression is good on that cylinder.I hope this helps.      :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 CB350 K1 parts help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1969cb350k1partshelp_t1474.html#1474</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi! So I just bought my first bike, '69 CB350 in the Candy Red/White. I've been trying to find some parts to get it stock again, but I'm having the hardest time finding one piece. The K1 was the only model to have the front fender reflector. (I believe. Correct me if I'm wrong.) I realize its a shot in the dark, but I can't find anywhere that has an old one available. Any help out there? The Honda part number is 33741-077-671, but no place I've checked has any. Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Only running on the left cylinder, Ignition?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/onlyrunningontheleft_t1473.html#1473</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all, I've been working on a new to me 1968 CL350. 
It starts up a little reluctantly but OK and only runs on the left side. I've taken apart the carbs, cleaned and new gaskets. They actually looked pretty darn good. The right plug was wet. I replaced the plugs and the right one is still unused looking after running it again. The pipe stays cold. The points and timing seem to be OK at first glance. 
Could someone walk me through troubleshooting the ignition with a meter?

Thanks, Edy]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1460.html#1469</link>
	<description><![CDATA[After you remove the rotor bolt the puller will thread into the end of the rotor. It will require some force on the puller to remove the rotor. The factory rotor puller was designed to be struck with a hammer, if you are using a bolt, an air impact wrench will work good. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Fork oil in 1970 CB350K2</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reforkoilin1970cb350_t1466.html#1468</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You can use dextron type ATF,it works good in those old style forks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb350k2 supersport fork seals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350k2supersp_t1461.html#1467</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you so much for your response!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Fork oil in 1970 CB350K2</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/forkoilin1970cb350k2_t1466.html#1466</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My shop manual says to use a 10W-30 fork oil.  The oil that came out looks like motor oil.  The Honda shop has 5W or 10W red hydralic oil for forks.  Am I supposed to use 10W-30 motor oil? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb350k2 supersport fork seals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350k2supersp_t1461.html#1464</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The chrome sleeve is a slip fit onto the aluminum fork case.Because of it's age the cover may be difficult to remove because of dirt and corrosion.Try some penetrating oil,you might also want to heat up the chrome sleeve with a hot air gun to help loosen it.Once the sleeve is removed you should be able to see the lock ring that holds the seal. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1460.html#1463</link>
	<description><![CDATA[this does help a lot, thank you. the information on the sprocket play and exact measurements of the rotor puller tool is particularly helpful. however, how does the tool work exactly? I've read some instructions and all I've found is just "remove the rotor with the tool" does it screw the rotor off somehow, or do you just screw it in and pull really hard? and again, thanks for the measurements and clutch wear info.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1460.html#1462</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The most common problems I have seen with the 350 twin starter clutch is that the three flat head screws that hold the clutch outer to the back of the generator rotor can come loose causing the clutch to act erratically,also the roller spring caps can wear and stick inside the clutch outer causing it not to engage properly. Once I did see a cracked clutch outer but I think that's rare. The sprocket should move back and forth on the shaft no more than a couple of millimeters as it is guided by a retainer plate. To remove the generator rotor you will need to have a rotor puller that has a 14mm diameter and a 1.5mm thread pitch at least 50mm long. A hardened bolt of the same dimensions will also work.
Hope this helps :!: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cb350k2 supersport fork seals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cb350k2superspor_t1461.html#1461</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How do I remove the fork tube from the housing to change seals?  My repair manual shows a fork w/ a boot that has a lock ring above the seal.  My forks are bootless w/ a chrome sleeve and I don't see a lock ring inside. :shock: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/starterclutchproblem_t1460.html#1460</link>
	<description><![CDATA[so i restored a 72 cl350 last summer as my first bike, and when i got to the electric starter, it never really worked right, but it kick started fine so i just ignored it. now before i start riding again this year i would like to get it working. when i press the button, it spins fine, but the clutch doesn't engage, except once. i did get it to engage and stay engaged, but once i quit, it never did it again. also, once i let go of the button, it sounds like at the very end once its almost done spinning, it catches just a little. when i took the crank case cover off and removed the starer chain to play with the starter sprocket, the sprocket had a bit of free play back and forth along the drive shaft/ rod its mounted on. when i moved it toward the clutch and spun it by hand, it engaged, when i pushed it toward the engine, it wouldnt. is this just a worn out clutch, or is my problem the free play the sprocket has? i wasn't able to get the generator rotor off, any suggestions on how to do that?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl 350  clutch won&apos;t disengage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350clutchwon_t348.html#1459</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Did something break? The metallic sound you mentioned sounds ominous.. It could have been the cable breaking somewhere or the linkage inside the clutch cover, like the bracket on the clutch cam. There are three metal balls that ride the cam that pushes the rod, if the clutch cable or adjuster on the cover was very mal-adjusted it's possible that they could have abandoned their proper place. Just make sure the cable is doing its thing to rule out the clutch itself. Your loose, floppy clutch lever is a very telling symptom. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CL350 Cylinder Cuts Out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cl350cylinderc_t1153.html#1458</link>
	<description><![CDATA[IF the carb float is adjusted so it hangs too low in the float bowl while still keeping the fuel valve shut (the metal tang that is bent to determine float height), the engine will drink all the gas in the float bowl faster and lower the float faster under higher engine speeds, eventually starving the cylinder of fuel and making it cut out. 

When you cut the throttle (as a human response to a suddenly dead cylinder because you know deep down that it's not getting the fuel it needs) the engine demands less fuel and allows the float bowl to refill easier and then it fires up again at low engine speeds until you throttle it, when this process repeats. 

And of course check the timing because this could also cause the cylinder to cut out. I'm only suggesting the float height because the same thing happened to me. 

Check the carb model number on the side of the carb. These are the floats heights I have:

350A - 19mm
3B, 3C - 21mm
3D, 722A, 726A, 728A - 26mm

Make sure you use the right float settings for the carbs you're using. I had the wrong setting for a while and experienced exactly what you have. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fire out the tailpipe</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refireoutthetailpipe_t1209.html#1457</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I know this post is ancient, but I had this happen. The problem was the points cam was slipped on 180 degrees off, or upside down. I incorrectly figured out that the camshaft was installed upside down and tore the engine apart to fix it and then discovered the reversed points cam. Just remove the points plate, remove the 10mm bolt holding the points cam to the end of the camshaft, and pull it off and turn 180. This was a very silly mistake on my part, but definitely resulted in huge backfires and flames from the exhaust. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: carb synchronize question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarbsynchronizeque_t1454.html#1456</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You possibly could do it like that but you would have to fabricate your own access ports to the carburetor vacuum chamber. It may not be worth the effort. These carbs are normally tuned by ear and sight.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1445.html#1455</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If the starter motor is running but the engine won't turn over, you may want to check the starter clutch located behind the generator rotor.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>carb synchronize question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/carbsynchronizequest_t1454.html#1454</link>
	<description><![CDATA[In my years messing with hot rods I noticed how some who were using dual quad carb intakes, specifically dual holley 4 barrel carbs with vacuum secondaries, used what you could call a vacuum balance tube connected to the caps of the vacuum diaphragms on both carbs to help insure the vacuum secondaries of both carbs were getting the same amount of vacuum thus helping to insure the secondaries of both carbs opened at the same rate.

My question is could this same thought process be used on the vacuum diaphragm caps/covers on my 71 CB350?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1445.html#1452</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My electric starter will not work either. It has new brushes in it and still does not work.
My solenoid is brand new from Honda.
I bought a starter motor from ebay and will put the new brushes in it from my starter motor after I clean and polish the commutator.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1445.html#1450</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Do you have the right battery fitted, is it the correct amp/hours?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/electricstarter_t1445.html#1445</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My starter won't start the bike. I hear either a spinning noise or it won't turn over at all. I can still kick-start it. After i've driven to the store and finished shopping, the electric starter starts it right up. In other words, the starter won't start a cold engine but will start a warm one.
The chain and teeth look good, it's not stripped. Is the starter just too weak?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electrical, please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectrical pleaseh_t1365.html#1441</link>
	<description><![CDATA[There's probably a wire grounding out from your kill switch, maybe where it enters the handlebars.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71&apos; Honda cb350.  Smoke coming out of engine breather.  Help!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71hondacb350smokecom_t1440.html#1440</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I rebuilt my bike from ground up, besides the engine.  Did the timing and all.  My bike kicks over nice and idles really well.  It sounds perfect, no ticking, nothing.  I take it out for about a 15min ride and all of a sudden it starts smoking out of the engine breather hose on top, and reacts sluggishly and hesitant with the throttle, and then it eventually kills, then it won't start.  Any ideas?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>sl350 seat</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/sl350seat_t1436.html#1436</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
I am about to acquire an SL350 minus its seat. Is this seat common to any other model ? Anybody out there with a spare???

cheers
Budgie]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 350 or 450?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re350or450_t1420.html#1422</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Michael,the cb450 had a factory claimed weight of 430lbs.The cb350 had a claimed weihgt of 353lbs.The 450 had a weelbase 2.3 inches longer than the 350. Hope this helps you!
tom costello]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>350 or 450?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/350or450_t1420.html#1420</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Can someone tell me if a early 70's 450cb is phyiscaly bigger than a cb350 is the engine wider ect heavier, bike taller longer ect.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 350 k2 Cam Shaft End Support Housing (Bearing)?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re350k2camshaftendsu_t1417.html#1419</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Steve,

If you can retrieve the partnumber, then there are numerous ways to get the item.
For the partnumber, you might want to check out the  pages.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>350 k2 Cam Shaft End Support Housing (Bearing)?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/350k2camshaftendsupp_t1417.html#1417</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am looking for one, condition new. Points cover side.
Any help?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Ref:Pin spanner wrench</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refinspannerwrench_t1415.html#1415</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know of a source for a pin spanner wrench to remove the rear wheel bearing cover on my sl350. All the 350's probably use the same setup. The bearing cover has 4 holes. I would to avoid fabricating one if possible. Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1971 cb350 (repost from new users)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1971cb350repostfromn_t1413.html#1413</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well, I usually stick to goldwings(a 79 and a 77 gl1000), but i am going to look at a 71 cb350 on friday. The guy said on the phone that the kickstart works some of the time but other times just does nothing. the electric sart always work. is this indicitive of a larger problem? could the cam be damaged? He said it ran well until he parked it, now it will run but not idle well. he's asking 650 for it. if any one wants to throw in their two cents, id welcome it.
thanks,
jesse]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cl 350 Exhaust assembly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350exhaustassemb_t1406.html#1411</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Oh yes, that's a good start, thank you  :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cl 350 Exhaust assembly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350exhaustassemb_t1406.html#1409</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well, at leas you know which partnumber to look for. That's a start  :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cl 350 Exhaust assembly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350exhaustassemb_t1406.html#1408</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you very much for your quick answer !
I've just checked for the K4 series, it's great, but some parts are not available... Like the exhaust holder. Not an easy one to get

Xavier
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cl 350 Exhaust assembly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350exhaustassemb_t1406.html#1407</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Xavier!

There are some brackets depicted on 


I'm not sure if that's the exact same model as your CL350, otherwise select the right model here:

and jump to the muffler parts list!

Hope this helps :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Cl 350 Exhaust assembly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cl350exhaustassembly_t1406.html#1406</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Dear fellows Hondamaniacs,
I'm currently rebuilding a honda CL 350 missing its exhaust assembly links, holding together and to the frame the exhaust system. As I am living in france, it's very difficult to find those exhaust brackets because the CL 350 wasn't originally sold over here.

I was wondering if somebody had some schemes of it, or some spare parts.

Thank you very much

Xavier]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: replacing phillips head screws with allen bolts?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacingphillipsh_t1377.html#1405</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks I think I found some.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Mid-range blues</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remid-rangeblues_t1362.html#1404</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You might want to check to make sure the plugs are getting adiquate voltage from the coils.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: replacing phillips head screws with allen bolts?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacingphillipsh_t1377.html#1403</link>
	<description><![CDATA[That is exactly what I did. I just went to several hardware stores and was able to find socket-head cap screws in all the lengths I needed.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electrical problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricalproblem_t565.html#1402</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have the same problem did you resolve the issue ? if yes what was the problem i have a new battery infact i bought two new batteries and still nothing]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Will a K0 tank fit K4 frame w/o modification?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/willak0tankfitk4fram_t1401.html#1401</link>
	<description><![CDATA[can someone answer this one real fast? thanks!!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Cafe project - front forks</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350cafeproject-f_t1385.html#1399</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Look in to CBR 600 1996-1999 Should bolt on]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;73 carb overflow</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73carboverflow_t1391.html#1392</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My left carb on my cl350 did the same thing. A new pipe may help as long as it's skinny enough because it has to fit in the little hole in the bracket that is on the two jets. What i did until i found another float bowl/tube assembly was use just a little bit of solder to fill in the crack. It didn't seem to leak anymore, but i replaced it anyway just to be safe. Just be sure to use very fine solder and a fine tip iron, otherwise it might get all the way through the crack and into the pipe and plug it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;73 carb overflow</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73carboverflow_t1391.html#1391</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The overflow tube in my right carb was split so i took it out.
Can i replace it by JB welding a copper tube in its place until i find another carb, or is that too much jury-rigging?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>tires</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/tires_t1386.html#1386</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi, i have a 72 cl350. it still has the stock tires on it and i had difficulty finding a new front tire. the stock is 3.00-19, does anyone know if a 3.25-19 would fit instead?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 Cafe project - front forks</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350cafeproject-fro_t1385.html#1385</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Greetings, I am just about to start a cafe project on a 72 cb350 twin. i intend to use clip-ons not clubmans. This means i will need to modify or switch out he front forks bc of the stock headlamp brackets (not to mention that the fork covers are dented and unsightly). Anyone know of any front forks w/o headlamp brackets that will work with existing triple tree? Thanks! ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: smoke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resmoke_t1220.html#1383</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm having the same problem.  I have a 71 350.  It rides good for about 10mins. and then starts to noticably smoke out of the breather when i'm stopped.  The ticking gets worse and worse and my bike is asking me to shut it off if i take the throttle off.  It seems like it's overheating inside the engine case.  I'm going to check the oil pump on mine first.  maybe it's clogged, not keeping the inside of the engine cool.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil in alternator cover</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilinalternatorcov_t1379.html#1381</link>
	<description><![CDATA[well, at least your question is answered  :D 
That's what these forums are about. Good luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil in alternator cover</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilinalternatorcov_t1379.html#1380</link>
	<description><![CDATA[DUH :shock: I just scrolled down the forum page (which I should've done before posting) and spotted someone that had the same issue and to my relief it's normal.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Oil in alternator cover</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/oilinalternatorcover_t1379.html#1379</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm new to this so please excuse this dumb question. Is there supposed to be a small amount of oil inside the alternator cover or do I have a nasty leak on my hands? As well sealed as the cover is and all 3 of the screws that hold it on all have O rings makes me wonder if it's normal.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: replacing phillips head screws with allen bolts?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacingphillipsh_t1377.html#1378</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I think you can find many online stores that sell that tool.
 for example.  :roll: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>replacing phillips head screws with allen bolts?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/replacingphillipshea_t1377.html#1377</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would like to replace the phillips head screws holding on the covers with hex head allen screws.I have an impact driver to take the old screws out but do not want to put those screws back in. 
Does any one sell sets of them? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 Honda CB350 K2 twin mufflers/silencers</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970hondacb350k2tw_t1369.html#1375</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ :( Not available in part list, looking for used or suitable replacement)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 Honda CB350 K2 twin mufflers/silencers</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970hondacb350k2tw_t1369.html#1370</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Gary,

First, pick your specifc . 
Next, from the exhaust / muffler partslist , select 

Hope this helps!  :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 Honda CB350 K2 twin mufflers/silencers</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970hondacb350k2twin_t1369.html#1369</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ :?: Any ideas of muffler replacements?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Tick over cb 350 k4 1970</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/tickovercb350k41970_t1367.html#1367</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Cant get the tick over right carbs have been cleaned and re jetted repaired by Hales, did have 105 now 118 jetts, new throtle cable, both carbs lift at the same time , i have removed tank and set up dumy tank to eliminate the tank i thought it was the fuel tap as i have filters in line and it looked like one carb was not  geting enough fuel when its cold its ok and when i take a lead of one side and then the other ticks over ok by now its geting warm then when i put both leads on it will not tick over less than 2000 revs all Mot'd and ready to ride again after standing for 6 yrs over grown in a garden. my first project so near, it must be some thing silly? any body help please.regards pete 
norman.pete@gmail.com   Eynsford Kent UK :oops:  :cry:  :oops:  :cry: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Cb 350 K4 Tank</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350k4tank_t1366.html#1366</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Help has any one got a tank had mine resprayed put it on the bike and it now leaks was ok before it was sprayed have used pet seal that worked but messed up because only geting fuel to one carb how anoying its all MOT and ready to ride my first project  :oops:  :cry: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>electrical, please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/electrical pleasehel_t1365.html#1365</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a 72 cl350 that had badly bent handlebars. i replaced the handlebars, which meant disconnecting all the wires for the controls and reconnecting them, and now i keep blowing fuses. as far as i can tell, all switches work fine (except the turn signal whose switch had rotted from the inside out) and i can start it and run the bike alright. But, as soon as i turn it off by the kill switch, everything goes dead and i the fuse is blown. any ideas as to why would be greatly appreciated.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Throttle Very hard to twist/ Signal lights are always on</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350throttleveryh_t1361.html#1364</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks. Should i use wd40 or maybe engine oil to lube it up?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Throttle Very hard to twist/ Signal lights are always on</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350throttleveryh_t1361.html#1363</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey,
The cable probably just needs a bit of spray lube on the inside of the housing.  Not sure if you have had it off, but if its rusty in there and you really crank on it, you could snap the cable.  I came close to doing that on a long road trip.  You will probably have to disconnect the cable from the throttle grip end and try and work lube into housing.  Be careful when you take the assembly apart, the wiring for the kill switch is pretty finicky.  If the bike won't start after working on the cable, its probably a shorted wire at the kill switch.
Your lights.  I had a similar problem with my tail light surging and blowing bulbs.  Under the headlight is a wire cluster.  Make sure that all the wires are plugs into their appropriate corresponding colour.  I had a white to white/yellow stripe (hard to tell in dim light) that was the source of my problem.  Use an light with LED bulbs. I find it easier to see the colours.
I am not an expert, but this is my two cents.
Cheers,
Dave]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Mid-range blues</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/mid-rangeblues_t1362.html#1362</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey all,
I am having a problem with acceleration around the 5000rpm mark and am having difficulty trouble shooting it.
71 CB350 twin with a 73(G) engine/carb.
The engine starts and idles fine.  Acceleration to 4800 rpm is good, then it chugs through to 5800 rpm (hasn't stalled, but is disconcerting on the highway), then in the 6-7000 rpm range it seems fine again.  It is really noticeable when I try to pin it or under heavy load on an up hill (I live in a mountainous area so unavoidable). 
I am getting good compression L:150 R:148
I adjusted the point gaps and timing (pretty new at this, but my adjustment did nothing to solve the problem and it didn't make it worse).
I have rechecked and replaced my plugs.  The left plug is exactly how the manual says it should look.  The right has a progressive history: When I first got the bike the right cylinder was only making 130psi.  At this stage the plug was black and oily.  As the rings came back to life the plug condition changed to dry with a greyish colouring (not extreme and my manual states tan to light grey is 'normal').
I have put around 600 miles on the bike since I got it.  It was rebuilt by a competent individual and this problem is new within the last 150 miles of driving.
My clymer manual states that this issue is 'usually' the case of inadequate spark or fouled plugs (which I don't seem to have).  I am sure the rings are worn, but my compression is actually pretty good.
I am thinking that it might be the carbs, but don't really want to tackle that until I have some corroboration.
Any thoughts or advice.
Thanks in advance,
Cheers,
Dave 
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB 350 Throttle Very hard to twist/ Signal lights are always on</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350throttleveryhar_t1361.html#1361</link>
	<description><![CDATA[1970 cb350
So my throttle is very hard to twist . After driving for 10 mins my hand hurts. I think i need to grease the cable but dont know how to do it. The cable is wrapped in a plastic shell so should i spray in there or somewhere else, where the cable splits into the carburator?


Also when i put on my lights the signal lights slightly go on and when i put on the high beams the front light goes off and the signals slightlly light up?

can anyone please help?
please send a copy to  fordavidz@gmail.com

Big Thanks
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CL 350 w/possessed carbs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cl350wpossessedc_t1237.html#1359</link>
	<description><![CDATA[my carbs were seemingly acting up as well, if what was listed above doesn't work, try adjusting the ignition timing at the points, made a world of difference for me

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: What other tanks fit cb350 k3 ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewhatothertanksfitc_t1357.html#1358</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Jeff,

from the specs of  I can tell that some other CL models share this item.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>What other tanks fit cb350 k3 ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/whatothertanksfitcb3_t1357.html#1357</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ I need to replace a rusted tank on my K3. What other model tanks will fit right on to my 1972. Need a nice red one. Jeff]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 sl350 camshaft spacers?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72sl350camshaftspa_t1348.html#1352</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Cody,

See if you can find a technical diagram and trace the spacers in question.
In that way you'll know the exact partnumber and you'll eliminate all guesswork.
The  page might be a good place to start.  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 sl350 camshaft spacers?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72sl350camshaftspace_t1348.html#1348</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Any one know where I can buy 72 350 camshaft spacers? Rebuilding An SL motor and they look to be pretty worn. I see there are 1 and 2mm spacers. How do I judge which ones I need? Stick a feeler gauge in there? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 Cl350 k4 questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72cl350k4questions_t1347.html#1347</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i'm trying to get an old bike i picked up a couple of weeks ago to decent running condition (not fully restored or anything, mind you, but pretty good) and i had 2 questions. 1. my clutch makes a popping sound when i pull it in, and it doesn't seem to fully disengage the wheel from the engine, if anyone knows why. 2. i can find nothing as far as transmission fluid, does it need to be changed periodically, and if so, where is the plug and drain and stuff for it? thx.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Where to get Brake Pads</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/wheretogetbrakepads_t1341.html#1341</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know a good source to get front brake pads for a 73' CB 350-G with front disc brakes?  I'm not having much luck, and the local Honda shop says the only sets they can get cost $70.  Let me know if anyone has a source.

Thanks,
Bobby]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73&apos; CB 350 Shifter Not Engaging</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73cb350shifternote_t1338.html#1340</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I fixed it. It was a simple fix of the bolt holding the shifter on having lost its nut.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73&apos; CB 350 Shifter Not Engaging</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73cb350shifternoteng_t1338.html#1338</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I recently came into a 73 CB350.  It ran good for a while though it was a little touchy about going into 2nd gear.  Then all of a sudden I came to a stop sign and I tried to put it into 1st gear, and I realized the shifter wouldn't respond to anything.  I must have broken something in the shifter linkage because I can move the shifter with no resistance all the way till it hits the muffler in the back, and it won't change gears.  It also has no spring to it.  It's stuck in 3rd I think.  I had to push it home with the clutch held in.  

What do you think may be the problem, and is it a project someone with decent automotive skills can handle?  Any advise would be fantastic.

Thanks,
Bobby, NC]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 cb350 carb question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73cb350carbquestio_t1330.html#1334</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, These are carb overflow drains.  The tubes should feed down behind the engine and in front of the main kickstand pivot so that overflow will end up on the ground.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 Honda CB350 (K5?)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1973hondacb350k5_t1333.html#1333</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just got this bike and it needs some work.  I've pulled the engine apart because it has bad (really bad) compression.  I'm looking at new pistons for the bike would be happy to know of any alternatives that I could use.  I need pistons that are 65mm with .25over.  Either that or I need a block that hasn't been re-bored yet so I can get smaller pistons.  (Maybe just the sleeves?)

I guy that is working on this with me says the bike is a K5, but I can only find bikes that go up to K4.

Here's a list of necessary things that I need.

Complete Gasket kit (top end)
clutch cable
2 pistons (engine block is labeled as 325cc)
2 seals for the front brake caliper.
front cylinder block cam chain guide
cam chain roller
cam chain roller with plate
2 swing arm grease fittings.
turn signal relay holding gromet
camshaft oil seal (if not included in gasket kit)
2 Carburetor kits

This is a bike I'd like to get in good running order, so any help would be very much appreciated.  I've also got kind of a low budget (or a slow budget) because I'm a college student at Virginia Tech.

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73 cb350 carb question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73cb350carbquestion_t1330.html#1330</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I need to know where the tubes on the bottom of the carbs connect to. atm the ones on my bike arent connected to anything and i dont wish to ride until i know. Bike seems to run good as is but i have this odd want to not cause damage to my bike or get gas all over.  

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1968 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1968cl350_t1303.html#1306</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Robert,

I'd suggest you take a look around at the part fiche which contains detailed parts info.

Select the  parts fiche that matches your bike and browse around for the stuff you want.

Hope this helps!  :lol: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1968 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1968cl350_t1303.html#1303</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone. I just bought a 1968 CL350 not too long ago and this is my first bike, I saw it and just thought 'i want that'

Anyway, it doesn't work, heh. There are some missing pieces and maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

What I'm in need of:
 - Right Carburetor
 - Right air-box
 - Air filters
 - A new muffler (the one it has rattles and I'm assuming is full of rust crap)
 - A new or fixed fuel tank (mine doesn't seem to have any holes, but has a film of rust all inside, fixable?)

Other than that everything seems to be in good shape, the header has minor rust on the outside, no holes or soft spots. The engine turns over fine and still has adequate oil. Cables are in good shape and I'm pretty sure the brakes and shocks are fine, there are only 8500 miles on it.

Anyone want to offer me advice or direction, it would be awesome, thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Barn find</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebarnfind_t1299.html#1300</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Robert,

I guess it's just trail and error.
Each time start the bike and if it fails, check:
- fuel delivery
- battery level
- spark plugs
- filter
- etc etc.

If found this nice article which basically sums it up for you:


Let me know if you got your bike running  :lol: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Barn find</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/barnfind_t1299.html#1299</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just purchased a CL 360 that has been in a barn for 3 or 4 years. What is the order of things that I should do to get it running. I guess the first that occurs to me is to clean the gas tank and put fresh gas and oil in the engine along with a good battery, but what next?


Bob]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: smoke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resmoke_t1220.html#1296</link>
	<description><![CDATA[well it sounds like a valve ticking. the valve seats or guides could be worn and leaking. check the compression of both cylinders , the rings could be worn or cracked and leaking exhaust gases past them and that could be why the engine smokes out of the breather.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda CB 350 K4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondacb350k4_t1291.html#1295</link>
	<description><![CDATA[
 :roll: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda CB 350 K4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hondacb350k4_t1291.html#1291</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Here comes mine !!
{ invalid link deleted }]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb 400n same as 350&apos;s</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb400nsameas350s_t1231.html#1289</link>
	<description><![CDATA[not at all related other than they're both hondas]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: looking for a starter block off plug</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/relookingforastarter_t716.html#1288</link>
	<description><![CDATA[thanks, the request is a little out of date.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: carb question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarbquestion_t1228.html#1287</link>
	<description><![CDATA[yup.... your right the clutch was just stuck. Bike still running like crap though. Left side is running decent but a little erratic. Right side is just a mess. Still carb junk so again it goes into the cleaner. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: looking for a starter block off plug</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/relookingforastarter_t716.html#1286</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Look on Ebay. There are company's selling them for cheap.  I bought a Starter Block off brand new with gasket for $30]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 15 and need help with rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re15andneedhelpwithr_t632.html#1285</link>
	<description><![CDATA[this should help you, Every wire goes to its color matched wire, can't mess it up]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CB 350 Help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cb350help_t733.html#1284</link>
	<description><![CDATA[yeah don't force it, thats your valve stud, you will need to open the valve cover for that valve and rotate the engine until that valve is closed then you should be able to slike it in very easy. However if you did that to all those studs, you will need to reset your valves before it will run]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb350 camshaft and sprocket!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350camshafta_t1206.html#1283</link>
	<description><![CDATA[if you have put the sproket and cam in, then you know its a pain, but it can only go on one way. What you need to do is hold the sproket up (so it does not fall into the engine) and get the came through to meet up with the sproket. Then you will see an "L" mark on the sproket and a Nipple at the end of the points side of the cam. Those both need to face the left side of the bike and both need to face vertical when you put it back together, then from there its fairly easy
hope that helps
it will all make sence after that]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: carb question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarbquestion_t1228.html#1282</link>
	<description><![CDATA[interseting, the starter motor and the kick start, are on two different systems (not together at all) if you have ever rode the bike you can here the starter chain spining. if your starter chain was broke, believe me would hear some god awful sounds and your bike would be in serious trouble. (probly just a bad starter or cyolinoid) Thus leading me to believe that your clutch is stuck. To check it put the bike in gear and see if your rear wheel spins on it's own, if so then thats your problem. Your kick start is hooked to a gear that drives your crank, so although several things can be wrong, i dought it. try the clutch being stuck. it's pretty rare that both wont work]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: carb question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarbquestion_t1228.html#1280</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks for the info. The guy I bought it from said it was a '71 but I quickly found out it's a 1972 like you said. The serial number tells me it's a k3. 

I cleaned out the carbs - a few times in fact - and they cleaned up nicely. My new problem is the starter clutch. The electric starter no longer engages and the kickstarter feels like a wet noodle. It feels like the chain has either broken or popped off. And, I can't get the clutch covers off. Most of the bolts are stuck so I've been giving them a daily dose of PB Blaster for the last week or so. Interestingly the 3 different manuals I have all have very little information on the starting mechanisms so I guess I'll just have to get it opened up and investigate.

Just learning as I go along here.

mike]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350 Engine Rebuild Problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350enginereb_t562.html#1273</link>
	<description><![CDATA[if only i saw this post ealrier, i would have told you your time was 180 dgrees backwords, it's an easy mistake to make, but you should have noticed that before putting it back together ( your luckey its a honda and it did not screw everything up]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB 350 (oil in left case)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilinleftca_t681.html#1272</link>
	<description><![CDATA[correct, the whole thing is pumped with oil from the sump, (even the clutch), if you where to remove anything  from the engine (even the starter) there will be oil. however if you let the oil settle, and you take the alt cover off, you should not leak oil that much]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1982 Honda CB450A Automatic</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1982hondacb450aaut_t617.html#1271</link>
	<description><![CDATA[they did not make many, (but they did make enough) they are not worth much however, my friend has one, ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: interchangeable forks ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reinterchangeablefor_t739.html#1270</link>
	<description><![CDATA[no you cant, you can use any 350 model morks as far as a know, but 550, 450, 750 wont fit]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 cb350 Need help with timing.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350needhelpwit_t868.html#1269</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ok, well, when putting the cam back i, make sure the cam chain tensior is not wore out, if not then proseed with putting the cam back in, to do this you need to have the nipple ( on the left side of the cam) facing up when it goes back in. Then when your putting the then cam sprocket back in, nake sure the L mare on it is facing up as well, then bolt in the cam sproket on the cam, Then ( if not already) make sure all your cam lobes are facing away from the rocker arms, and put your valves back in. then when all of it is back together, tighten your cam chain and put your points back on. As far as the timing marks, The the LF mark is your timing mark for your left point. you want your left point to open right when the lf mark aligns with your timing mark, And the F mark is the same, but for the right cylinder...
or get the manual hereb]



http://clymer.com/Book.aspx?bid=482&title=Honda 250-350cc Repair Manual, 1964-1974]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Cams and Redline</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350camsandredlin_t1110.html#1268</link>
	<description><![CDATA[no i don't but i think that they are just high lift cams,  so your cam lobes are just bigger creating more valve lift and clearance]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 cl350 low comp in one hole</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cl350lowcompinon_t1120.html#1267</link>
	<description><![CDATA[could have a stuck valve, very week valve springs, but if you did not put new rings in when you bored it, then thats a big problem, Also if you put the cylinder jub on a litttle funny, then rings could get stuck. What is your compression?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fire out the tailpipe</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refireoutthetailpipe_t1209.html#1266</link>
	<description><![CDATA[that would do that, but if the wires match up don't swap them, because you can cause your spark to fire early, which would cause more damage then you want....i agree you should check your wires, but this is most likely points/ timing, unless your plugs/points have dirt on them and its causing a fire]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CL350 Cylinder Cuts Out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cl350cylinderc_t1153.html#1265</link>
	<description><![CDATA[let me guess....the left cylinder?
check what barry said, and your point gap/ ingniton timing]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CL350 Cylinder Cuts Out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cl350cylinderc_t1153.html#1264</link>
	<description><![CDATA[let me guess....the left cylinder?
check what barry said, and your point gap/ ingniton timing]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: hich has two CB -SL Clutch.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehichhastwocb-slclu_t1159.html#1263</link>
	<description><![CDATA[same engine, same clutch]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CL 350 w/possessed carbs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cl350wpossessedc_t1237.html#1262</link>
	<description><![CDATA[reset vacum to carbs, airmixture could be off, and your idle jet may be laking. Also you  make think all passages are clear, soke the carbs in Berrymans carb dip (and only berrymens) Also they are stupid carb designs (never a fan (mine sometimes do it do, but after the berrymens dip and resetting float level everything worked out great, good luck (also how long are your fuel lines (make sure your fuel lines are not getting any air in them either (an air bubble will cause this problem as well]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: carb question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarbquestion_t1228.html#1261</link>
	<description><![CDATA[beautiful condidtion, but it is a 72 (because of the shape of the side covers) and i think its actually a cb350k4 not a k3. If the serial number is cb350-40000 its a k4, if its cb350-3000 then its a k 3 but it looks like a k 4, As far as the rubber plug, I think you leave it, thats not a jet, nor should not be, (whys it there, i do not know but think it was ment to be. If you dont need to mess with the jets in that cabr, then don't. Each time you pull the jets out (becuause they are not screw in types) the rubber gromet gets week)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: carb question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarbquestion_t1228.html#1260</link>
	<description><![CDATA[beautiful condidtion, but it is a 72 (because of the shape of the side covers) and i think its actually a cb350k4 not a k3. If the serial number is cb350-40000 its a k4, if its cb350-3000 then its a k 3 but it looks like a k 4, As far as the rubber plug, I think you leave it, thats not a jet, nor should not be, (whys it there, i do not know but think it was ment to be. If you dont need to mess with the jets in that cabr, then don't. Each time you pull the jets out (becuause they are not screw in types) the rubber gromet gets week)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 bobber/cafe</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350bobbercafe_t1250.html#1250</link>
	<description><![CDATA[it is a 73 cb 350 twin. i have cut off the rear fender rails, dropped the seat pan 2.8 in and moved the shock bolt location.  Then i have swapped to a sportster shock so it is stiffer. the budget for this bike is 350 bucks! my seat is hand stiched from a bobber i built in the past. i have a set of GSXR 750 rear sets for this sucker... a bunch of little odds and ends are being done but it will look great! here is what i plan on doing with it and where it is at so far!


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 CL 350 w/possessed carbs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cl350wpossessedcar_t1237.html#1237</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Since I managed to not get blown up in Iraq my wife picked me up a bike.  Have spent a good deal of time learning how to work on this, I am a Honda auto tech as a civilian.  Got it running but the carbs seem to have a personality of their own.  You never know what you will get at a stop.  Barely run or run at 2-3500 rpm.  Cables are free and properly adjusted, carbs cleaned several times. Accel pistons raise up on their own and I have no idea why.  No vacuum leaks I can find and all the passages are clear.  Diaphrams are intact.  Idle jets seem to have no effect on engine but again all passages are clear.  Any suggestions are welcome including "bet he didn't catch that" as I have always worked cars truck and military equip.  Scott K.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Reclamation- My 71 CB 350 project.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereclamation-my71cb_t1227.html#1234</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Mike!

Well, congrats on getting that bike back :) I guess you'll might face a lot of hidden problems. I hope that won't take away the pleasure.

About your question of getting parts: I recommend the CMS partslist (or partsfiche if you like). It contains exploded views of the parts you might need. See  page.

Well, good luck with restoring and I hope you'll get feedback on questions that might arise.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb 400n same as 350&apos;s</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb400nsameas350s_t1231.html#1231</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a cb4oon 1981 and was wondering is this pretty much the same bike as the older 350 twins with different tank, wheels and seat? etc...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: carb question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarbquestion_t1228.html#1229</link>
	<description><![CDATA[....Ok turns out it's a '72. Here is a photo for viewing pleasure.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21780977@N04/2631386272/" title="Honda 1972 CB350 K3 by the invisible city, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3133/2631386272_2fd91e02c7_o.jpg" width="576" height="865" alt="Honda 1972 CB350 K3" /></a>
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>carb question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/carbquestion_t1228.html#1228</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all, my first post here. I'm in the midst of getting a '71 CB350K3 back into shape so this should prove to be an invaluable resource. quick question. How do you remove the slow jet - the one under the little rubber plug - or am I even supposed to remove it? 

thanks! Mike]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Reclamation- My 71 CB 350 project.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reclamation-my71cb35_t1227.html#1227</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Everyone,
In 1971 my Father bought a CB 350 twin which he rode for about 10 years, until buying a BMW in 1980. When I was a kid, this bike sat in the back of our basement, unmoved, presumed non-functional. In 1997 when we left our house with property for suburban life, my dad traded the CB with our next door neighbor for half of a wood-chipper they went in on together, as an effort to alleviate my mother's fears of me "Getting the Bug" and fixing it to ride. 

I am 21 now, and have been riding an 81 Kawasaki 750 for 2 years and almost 10 thousand miles. 
I ran into the neighbor yesterday, and asked about the bike, and he offered it back to me, advising that it was not running, and was getting no spark. I am going to pick it up tomorrow, and my project will begin. 

It's not in the best shape, but the electrical system works, aside from the ignition, and it has decent tires on it. 
I have the summer to work on this project and I have very few time commitments until Mid-August. 

I will put up pictures tomorrow, Wish me luck.

Any suggestions on where to get parts, where to find tutorials, what common problems I should look for, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>smoke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/smoke_t1220.html#1220</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just picked up a 73 cb350 twin and it leaks oil of course from the seals, i got a seal kit and i'm gonna do what i can there but something that bothers me is it spits smoke out of tube coming from the top of the engine routing done to the bottom of the bike.  constantly.  Any ideal whats going on here? Bike runs, kinda ticking sound and in neutral it revs through the ranges fine but when riding it doesn't like going above 5k rpm  .  thanks for any help]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 tires</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350tires_t1214.html#1219</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just ordered a set of IRC GS11's for my 1971 cCL350.  3.25 * 19 front and 3.50 * 18 rear.  These are nice retro looking tires.  Two tires, two tubes, two rim strips $167 from JC Whitney...JimJ 
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 15 and need help with rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re15andneedhelpwithr_t632.html#1215</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Don't worry about finding chrome covers.
remove the paint from the covers get some polishing wheels and compound and polish the covers. Did it to mine. If you take your time you'll be amazed. Try www.eastwood.com for materials.
Bob ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb350 tires</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350tires_t1214.html#1214</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've got a 1968 cb350 in the process of restoring. Stock tires were 3.00-18 and 3.50-18. What size tires should I replace with and how much oversize can I go? I just would like a little bigger, not steamrollers!
Thanks,
Bob :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CL350 Cylinder Cuts Out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cl350cylinderc_t1153.html#1213</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi have you checked carb float hights,how about condenser.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fire out the tailpipe</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refireoutthetailpipe_t1209.html#1210</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I had a similar problem with my newly rebuilt 360 and I'd cross-connected the wires from the points to the coils so that the left was firing when the right should have been. Try swapping them around, you may have done the same.

Hope this helps,

Greg]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>fire out the tailpipe</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/fireoutthetailpipe_t1209.html#1209</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i rebuilt a 1970 cb350 twin and everything is correct but it wont start and shoots fire out the back, checking into it i discovered that the spark was happening on the exhaust stroke while the valve is open, its got to be timing, any ideas????]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cb350 camshaft and sprocket!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cb350camshaftand_t1206.html#1206</link>
	<description><![CDATA[me and my dad recently rebuilt the engine and found out quickly when finished that we had the cam sprocket on wrong!! the sprocket needs to do a 180 degrees and be bolted back on, but when we did this the sprocket cant make it over a lip on the camshaft to be flush!! it seems almost like the sprocket is to small but that wouldn't make sense because we already had it on there straight and now in the correct position it wont go on again. please help!!! :cry: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: JUST GOT MY BIKE!!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rejustgotmybike_t1169.html#1193</link>
	<description><![CDATA[um owkee... just go to 


Click on "add new" to create a new gallery. 
Next, click on "add image", fill in some stuff about your bike and prepare to be admired  :lol: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New to honda cb350 questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtohondacb350que_t1186.html#1192</link>
	<description><![CDATA[to clean tanks in the past i alwasy would put a bit of gas in them and some gravel, then shake the heck out of it! no if it has no rust does not need to be coated... sorry man that is all i can help you with... for air filters i usually just blow them out wiht a air compressor and then use a soft brissle brush, you can then spray them down wiht K&N filter cleaner and let them air dry... remember they are paper so be gentle after you soak them down with the cleaner and risnse them off... hope that helps! ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>GOT IT RUNNING</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/gotitrunning_t1191.html#1191</link>
	<description><![CDATA[well i got the old bike fired up and running, now i need to figure out how to set the points and why it will not charge the battery... i hear this is common... any ideas? i want to get this figured out so i can start to chop and build my bobber... thanks guys! any help with points or charging would be awesome!!!! ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: JUST GOT MY BIKE!!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rejustgotmybike_t1169.html#1190</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I do but i am not sure how to post it]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>New to honda cb350 questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newtohondacb350quest_t1186.html#1186</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just picked up a honda cb350 and have a few questions because this is my first bike.
1. Best way to clean and seal tank, I am not sure if it is rust so is it necessary to seal? I have read to get cleaner and bb's and just shake it up then rinse it then put alcohol to dry up the water then seal it.
2. Is there anyway to clean the air filter? It runs but the carb over flowed due to a faulty float and soaked the filter with gas.
3. What is the threading on the bottom side of the petcock valve for? There appears to be threads and a screen but nothing attached.
4. Best place to buy tires? They are in good condition tread wise but have some dry rot and I want to be safe and get some new tires.
Thats all for now. Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: JUST GOT MY BIKE!!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rejustgotmybike_t1169.html#1170</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Joe!

Welcome the forum! 8)
Got pics of that bike to show ?!

cheerzzz
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>JUST GOT MY BIKE!!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/justgotmybike_t1169.html#1169</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hello hello! i just got my 73 honda CB350 out of storage and am going to spend some TLC time with it, turn it to a little bobber beach cruiser...just wnated to say hello! ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>hich has two CB -SL Clutch.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hichhastwocb-slclutc_t1159.html#1159</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi. Can any one tell me if I can put a clutch from a SL350 with one primary drive gear into a CB350 . Is one type of Clutch different or maybe better. Why did they make them different for basically the same engine. Cheers Ian.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 CL350 Cylinder Cuts Out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1969cl350cylindercut_t1153.html#1153</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am new here..

I own a 1969 CL350.  I have been having problems with one cylinder cutting out at higher speeds for quite a while.  I have been through the carb more times than I can count, swapped coils, adjusted valves, checked fuel flow with no success... I dont know what to try to get this resolved.

Any help would be much appreciated.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;75 CL360 K1 Muffler restoration</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/75cl360k1mufflerrest_t1152.html#1152</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am restoring a 1975 CL360 Scrambler and am having trouble figuring out how to get the exhaust pipe for the right cylinder re-chromed. As you may know, the exhaust pipe and muffler are joined as a single piece. Has anyone else tried to do this?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CL350 - where can i find alternative parts.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cl350-wherecanif_t1144.html#1148</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You have a simple option:
Keep your current seat complete and intact, in case you change your mind or want to resel the bike one day.
Get a beaten up seat on Ebay and get it modified from plain flat style to a more comfortable foam and shape by a specialist.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 CL350 - where can i find alternative parts.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cl350-wherecanifin_t1144.html#1144</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I bought a project CL350. Although i love the bike, i really dont like the style of the seat. Where might i find an alternative seat. I have seen other CL350's with seats that i like. Also i am looking for the tank decals. Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 cl350 low comp in one hole</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cl350lowcompinon_t1120.html#1134</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,

First of all, I'm not an expert and english is not my first language... nor my second.

If everything you tested is really well checked, there is to my mind only one last thing to check : your valve tappets. both clearance and timing.

But on second thought, if you've got a new bore kit, you should have to hand tap your valves, to me it is not likely they would fit a new head without some work.

I may answer too late, but it may still be of some use to somebody else.

If I'm saying anything wrong, please correct or complete my post, anybody !

An old Hondas lover
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 cl350 low comp in one hole</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cl350lowcompinoneh_t1120.html#1120</link>
	<description><![CDATA[bike has fresh bore, new piston kit, valves all pass vac check, cylinder and piston pass vac check, no head gasket leak.  a leakdown test points to rings, but they all vac check with no leaks.  why does it have low compression in one cylinder?  any problems like this out there?  any suggestions?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 - Cams - Differences</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350-cams-differenc_t1111.html#1111</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know why Honda changed the cams and rockers in the CB350 from early (pre 1970) to the later types? I know they modified the cam and rockers and changed the redline from 10500 RPM to 9500 about 1970. Does someone know the reason and the differences?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 Cams and Redline</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350camsandredline_t1110.html#1110</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know why Honda changed the cams and rockers in the CB350 from early (pre 1970) to the later types? I know they modified the cam and rockers and changed the redline from 10500 RPM to 9500 about 1970. Does someone know the reason and the differences?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda CB350K4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondacb350k4_t1107.html#1108</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,

Is there a link to a photo somewhere?  :o ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda CB350K4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hondacb350k4_t1107.html#1107</link>
	<description><![CDATA[For sale. Good K4 frame and swinging arm. Straight. No rust or rot. Â£250.00 Sterling. Frame in Manchester area UK. No documents. Came as spare with a classic racer I purchased. Buyer arranges collection.
peter.shepherd13@ntlworld.com]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1971 cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1971cb350_t767.html#1106</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just bought one this weekend for 200. All there, runs - needs a bit of TLC. I'm making a vintage racer though. 
Try talking down to at least 400. Don't know where you are but up here in Mass they sell very quickly.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>brackets to mount aftermarket coil, ignitor &amp; regulator-rectifier</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/bracketstomountafter_t1100.html#1100</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Here are some links:





Scroll down for links to alternate views. Click image for high-res view. 

Regards,

Derek
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Removing fork covers</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/removingforkcovers_t1083.html#1083</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Last night I tried to remove the chrome covers on the sliders of my 73 CB350K4 to change the fork seals.
After days of soaking in PB Blaster it was a no-go.
What is the trick to remove them?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 CB350k4 color code</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73cb350k4colorcode_t1078.html#1081</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If the info    :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73 CB350k4 color code</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73cb350k4colorcode_t1078.html#1078</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am restoring a 73 CB350 K4 that is "Gentle Maroon metallic" and need the paint code.
Can anyone help?
TIA]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cl350 starter clutch rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350starterclutch_t796.html#1074</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I also have a 1972 honda cl 350. My starter turns over but does not turn the crank. I took the crank case cover off but could not remove the generator rotor to get to the clutch. My question is where did you get the tool or how did you get the rotor off. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 cb350 Need help with timing.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cb350needhelpwitht_t868.html#868</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello, 

My friend just picked up this bike from a farmer he works with. It has been sitting for sometime. We did some basic maintenance to it and got it running, but there was a terrible amount of blow-by. So he picked up a full gasket set and some rings. I have been on the hunt for a service manual with out much luck. The ones I found were for the four cylinder. My friend started to take the engine apart on his own and he is pretty sure the timing chain slipped when he was trying to get the cam out.  :roll: I finished getting the top end apart and found that the head gasket was severely blown. I am glad that I found an obvious problem, but I can't seem to make sense of the timing marks. If someone would be so kind to give me some direction on this matter I would be very grateful. 

Thank you. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title> NOS CB350 K0 / K4 Wiring Harness Swap</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/noscb350k0k4wiringha_t848.html#848</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've got a brand NOS CB350 K0 wiring harness (32100-286-672). Anyone got a NOS K3 / K4 wiring harness (32100-344-672)they want to swap?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda C100 1964 Indicator Problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondac1001964indic_t840.html#846</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,
I own a 1963 c100, and it does the same.
I think it should be like that
The bulbs must be 8 watt each, or else they won`t work at all

Geert]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda C100 1964 Indicator Problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hondac1001964indicat_t840.html#840</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,I'm rebuilding my 1964 C100,just done the electrics,problem is dont know if the indicators work the way they should.When i switch to left or right the side selected lights up dim then flashes full brightness then back to dim. They dont go on and off like modern bike indicators.Is this the correct operation for this bike? Thanks :?:  :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ignition coil</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reignitioncoil_t620.html#818</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yuriy,

The advice from Kurt seems correct.... if you have disconnected the high tension wire right at the point that it goes into the coil, you have a problem. It is moulded into the coil and will be very diffcult to repair and/or make significant contact to the existing circuit to make sure that you get full HT power. 

If you have a small amount of HT wire left near the coil you might be able to use a noise suppression (old tech) connection to join the coil to the rest of the lead to the spark plug, but you'd need to find out why this burnt out in the first place. Sounds like a copper lead rather than carbon.

If it a low tension wire to the contacts, then replace the condenser.

Hope you can get it working...  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB 350 (oil in left case)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilinleftca_t681.html#817</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yep - snorkelfork is right - the alterantor 'floats on fluid'.... this is as designed. Oil is pumped into the alternator case - doesn't seem right but it is supposed to do this.

Regards, Mark]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CB 350 Help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cb350help_t733.html#816</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Rick,

Sounds odd - might be a broken rocker arm pivot. You can take the head cover off with the engine in place and see if this is the problem without upsetting the head tension too much, Could explain why the thing jams. Fairly easy to fix if this is the case.....

Have you had the engine running?

Regards, Mark]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: interchangeable forks ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reinterchangeablefor_t739.html#815</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Trixie,

I had a similar problem with my CB250 K0 forks some time back. I was able to buy a wrecked CB350 and change the forks and headstem assembly to get me by - they are a little different, so you have to change the entire assembly.

First though - you say that they are a bit rusty? Is that the outside appearance or are they not working due to rust on the inside of the fork tube? If it is inside the fork tube, it might be because water has leaked through the top seals. You might be able to drain the tube via the bottom drain bolts in each tube and put fresh oil in them via the very top bolts above the head stem - do this a few times to flush.

If it is just asthetics, then a new, used or rechromed kit will be in order.

Hope this helps....  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73 cb350 won&apos;t pop into gears...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73cb350wontpopintoge_t798.html#798</link>
	<description><![CDATA[my recently purchased cb350 is starting to give me problems. engine seems great, but i am now starting to have great difficulty popping into 1st and neutral and also sometimes it won't down or upshift while i'm riding. the gears just won't pop in. wondering what's up and where to start troubleshooting. i'm new to this so thanks for any help and info!
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cl350 starter clutch rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cl350starterclutchre_t796.html#796</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 72 cl350 that the starter will not engage. It only spins free.
I took it apart, pulled off the stator looked at a micro phish and saw that is has 4 little springs in the stator(flywheel) with little post that engage when the starter button is pressed I bought the parts to fix it but cant seem to get the springs and post out of the flywheel? How do you do this?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: possible cam choices</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repossiblecamchoices_t730.html#783</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Megacycle cams has a pretty good selection but they are expensive (>$300 US). Also they will help you choose the correct piston to go with the cam you choose.
http://www.megacyclecams.com/

-Chris]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>$600 for 2 1972 Honda CL350 1 is a scrambler`</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/600for21972hondacl35_t779.html#779</link>
	<description><![CDATA[the red one is 100 percent there needs a one over and probably new plugs and carb cleaned it last ran 2 years ago 

the blue one is a parts bike 90 percent there either use it for parts or restore it and have 2 classics 

see pics here 
http://mysite.verizon.net/resqnssp/celticchoppers/id7.html

bikes located in Massachusetts

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: SL350 (K0) 1969 cables</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resl350k01969cables_t759.html#778</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm ordering cables from Charlie's Place charlies-place.com in San Francisco, CA.  They're not specifically for my SL350, but they assure me that the cables they send will work.  Good luck all- mark]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1971 cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1971cb350_t767.html#767</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i dont know much about these bikes but i have been wanting one for a while. i found one for sale and i talked the guy donw to 550 thusfar. it's in decent condition and runs, but needs work, some wiring and maybe the carbs cleaned. looks like most of the bike is there, not missing any big things. is this a good deal? what should i look for on it? apparently he uses a couple times a week for work. what is everyones opinion?

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>SL350 (K0) 1969 cables</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/sl350k01969cables_t759.html#759</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi guys!  I'm trying to replace my throttle, front brake, and clutch cables.  I'm seeing ebay listings for CB350 cables that claim they will fit the SL350.  I want to make sure they will fit before I start spending on something I know I will have a lot of difficulty returning.  I tried search here but I couldn't find anything.  I also tried Motion Pro Products at www.motionpro.com/ and they didn't have any info on capatibility of CB350 to SL350 cables.  I'd prefer to buy the new cables at motion pro since I should be able to get them in black instead of the gray.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!  Thanks in advance- mark in Colorado, USA]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1973cb350_t758.html#758</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am not sure if I am posting this in the correct place, if not please let me know. I have a 1973 CB 350 that I thought I was gonna have time to restore, but I honestly found that my new daughter is taking my time and heart. So I am gonna pass on this restoration....I have a complete bike(excluding tach/speed). The motor does not currently run, but is complete, I also have another bottom end from another CB 350. Tank has a small dent on side, chrome is in decent shape, seat has rip, but pan is in great shape. All blinkers are there, but will need new lens. Headlight mounting is there, but again new lense will be needed. Rims are in good shape, back tire is flat, front disk brack is complete. This bike has kick start, and battery start. If you want something please make me an offer, the bike needs to go. I am in GA.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>interchangeable forks ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/interchangeableforks_t739.html#739</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi my forks are way rusted beyond safe use on my 1973 cb350 "G" model twin. Can I use forks from say a cb550 or 750 as replacement parts? Thanks for your help!! Sorry if this is a stupid question.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 350 vs 360</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re350vs360_t378.html#738</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Nope. the 360's lower tubes are different.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: looking for a starter block off plug</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/relookingforastarter_t716.html#737</link>
	<description><![CDATA[saw this thread in another forum.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-350-Starter-Block-Off-Plug_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQihZ003QQitemZ130087326131QQrdZ1

this is the forum:
http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=18370.15]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 67 cb350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re67cb350_t515.html#735</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Wow, just noticed how old this thread is ... sorry.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 67 cb350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re67cb350_t515.html#734</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This is all I found http://www.bikepics.com/honda/cb350/67/pics.asp]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 CB 350 Help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1969cb350help_t733.html#733</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My neighbout asked me the other day to restore his 69' CB350 for him, so I agreeed to. The bike was in his basement completely disassembled. So over the past few days Ive painted the frame, cleaned up all the chrome, got rid of all the rust, and put it all back together. I have the whole bike together, except one part, which is giving me trouble. Its the chrome part the goes on the right side of the engine, which covers the cam, and it has the gear in it that drives the tach. Its held on by two studs and four screws, and one of the studs slide out.I cant get the part on, its gets jammed when I try to push it in. The studs are straight, but the part won't go on straight. Can anyone help?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>for sale in Mass 1972 Honda CL350 w/ parts bike comp</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/forsaleinmass1972hon_t731.html#731</link>
	<description><![CDATA[looking for 800  email me for pics and details 
see bike here 

http://mysite.verizon.net/resqnssp/celticchoppers/id7.html

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>possible cam choices</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/possiblecamchoices_t730.html#730</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1971 SL350 that I will be flat track racing this year.  I was looking to install an aftermarket cam.  Any ideas on where to get one from and the kind I should get??(lift and duration)??  I was thinking about geting high compression pistons for it.  thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Pictures</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/pictures_t727.html#727</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Folks,
   I just purchased a 72 CB350 and with my son we are getting her running again.  I need pictures to show me where the wiring runs.  I've got a nice color diagram but need to how the wires are to be run.  For exmaple, the plug wires and the ignition switch were hanging off the side of the bike.  I've got them working again, but I don't know where to put them.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  
   Thanks
RL]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: i need some info</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reineedsomeinfo_t635.html#722</link>
	<description><![CDATA[www.honda350k.com//////////////////////////////]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 15 and need help with rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re15andneedhelpwithr_t632.html#721</link>
	<description><![CDATA[there is no oil filter. there is a centrifugal catch on the right side behind the chrome cap

you can find a wiring diagram here www.honda350k.com]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB 350 (oil in left case)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilinleftca_t681.html#720</link>
	<description><![CDATA[that's perfectly natural. if you were to tip the bike to the left large quantities of oil would pour out. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 15 and need help with rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re15andneedhelpwithr_t632.html#719</link>
	<description><![CDATA[OK thanks now i need help with the wireing. All but three wires were cut off for a simple running bike. But now i need to make it street legal i am buying a new wire harness for it and handle bar with switchs now i need to know how to plug them all together. except i dont know how completly lost????????]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: can I have my ball back?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recanihavemyballback_t634.html#718</link>
	<description><![CDATA[have you figured this out yet?

if not i am willing to bet it's the bearing that helps engage the clutch. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>looking for a starter block off plug</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/lookingforastarterbl_t716.html#716</link>
	<description><![CDATA[can anyone provide a link where i can purchase a block off plug for my cl350?...cheers
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Electrical/Ignition Problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricalignition_t704.html#714</link>
	<description><![CDATA[These bikes need a battery installed in order to fire on both cylinders. Also, it can damage your charging system to try running with a dead/no battery. Hope this helps!
Chris]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Electrical/Ignition Problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/electricalignitionpr_t704.html#704</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I picked up a 71 cb350 twin and I've gotten it running by jumping it off with a portable jump starter and it runs & rev pretty well with the jumper connected but when I disconnect the jumper battery it starts to misfire and won't run below 2k rpm without cutting out.

I don't know where to start: battery, magneto regulator, rectifier,.....

Any insight would be appreciated.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Another project...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reanotherproject_t616.html#688</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ :) go to ebay and start looking for parts.  I have bought many things.  Be careful, an occasional bad person lurks out there.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 15 and need help with rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re15andneedhelpwithr_t632.html#687</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ :o  :o First - search the web and buy a maintenance manual.  second - search ebay.  There are many parts for the 350s on there.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 CB 350 (oil in left case)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cb350oilinleftcase_t681.html#681</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I removed round cover from the altenator side to discover oil. Lots of it. Does not seem right to find oil mixed with the electrics. Could this mean that there could be blown seal? :shock: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1982 Honda CM450A Automatic</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1982hondacm450aaut_t617.html#669</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ My buddy just aquired an 82 Honda CM450A with only 21000klms on it.
It's in very good shape, nothing damaged or broken. Drives easy and
shifts great(2-speed). I remember hearing about this model with an
automatic when I was in my teens, but this is the first one that 
I've seen. Does anyone out there know how many were built, is it
rare, and what is one worth? Left side brake lever actually has a
press-down button on top, when depressed acts like a parking brake. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 15 and need help with rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re15andneedhelpwithr_t632.html#641</link>
	<description><![CDATA[where can i find the oil filter for this bike also where can i get chrome covers]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: i need some info on cb cl 350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reineedsomeinfooncbc_t635.html#636</link>
	<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>i need some info</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/ineedsomeinfo_t635.html#635</link>
	<description><![CDATA[any info. on these bikes would be helpful]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>can I have my ball back?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/canihavemyballback_t634.html#634</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ive recently completed an engine rebuild on my 1970 CB350 , the engine was bought  stripped and packed in several boxes, to my frustration I have a Part left over , a plastic ball approx 8-10mm in diameter and I havent a clue where it should go!. It is not shown in my manual ,but I feel it has something to do with the oil supply system either as a pressure increasing restrictor or as a non return valve I would like to run the engine but fear that this very inexpensive part could have very expensive results if omitted. 
Can any one help indentify its purpose and location .

Thanks ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>15 and need help with rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/15andneedhelpwithreb_t632.html#632</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I got two honda 350s from my grandfather. One is a cl the other a cb the cl is totally stripped my cb runs but is not street legal. to add to all that the wiring is driving me crazy any hep would be appreciated
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ignition coil</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reignitioncoil_t620.html#627</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yuriy,

   The plug wires are molded into the coils. There is no effective way to completly replace the wire. You could splice the wire, but if it's melted there's a possibility that the coil is damaged internally and shoud be replaced. The coils aren't made by Honda any longer, but used ones can be picked up on ebay for not a lot of money, after market coils are also available but can be very expensive.

   Let us know what you decide to do.

Kurt
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Another project...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reanotherproject_t616.html#626</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Latest acquisition: 1970 CB350

Besides the cross-threaded spark plug hole, I just pulled the carburetors and they are oxidized solid. So I also will need a working set of carbs. 

Any ideas?


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>ignition coil</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/ignitioncoil_t620.html#620</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How do you go about changing the spark plug wires coming from the ignition coils? The ones on my cl350 have apparently melted. The wires are coming from inside the coil itself and in a misguided attempt to pull them off I seem to have broken one off of the connection. I still have one good one that I should be able to salvage if I go about changing the wire correctly. In a related question, what could cause the wires to melt?
Thanks,
Yuriy]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1982 Honda CB450A Automatic</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1982hondacb450aautom_t617.html#617</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ My buddy just aquired an 82 Honda CB450A with only 21000klms on it.
It's in very good shape, nothing damaged or broken. Drives easy and
shifts great(2-speed). I remember hearing about this model with an
automatic when I was in my teens, but this is the first one that 
I've seen. Does anyone out there know how many were built, is it
rare, and what is one worth? Left side brake lever actually has a
press-down button on top, when depressed acts like a parking brake. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Another project...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/anotherproject_t616.html#616</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Latest acquisition: 1970 CB350

It is mostly complete, but has been sitting outside since 1990. Accordingly, it has a truckload of issues. My main problem right now is a cross threaded spark plug hole. Is there any other way to fix this besides a Helicoil? I am not a big fan of Helicoil and would like something more substantial. Or would it be cheaper to buy another head?

Any ideas?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;69 CB350 recent purchase</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cb350recentpurch_t603.html#607</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Mike,

    The netural light ground conection is a copper spring & plate on a cam attached to the shift drum, just forward of the drive sprocket. It's subject to dirt and wear. If you pull the sprocket cover off you should be able to clean it and/or reposition it easily.

   Turn signals ... sounds like a bad relay, but you'll need to do some more trouble-shooting. 

   The starter motor is an easy fix as well but you'll need to remove the alternator side engine cover to see what's exactly is going on.

Congratulations on a fun purchase.

Kurt ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;69 CB350 recent purchase</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cb350recentpurch_t603.html#604</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I meant '68!
*****************************]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;69 CB350 recent purchase</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/69cb350recentpurchas_t603.html#603</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello fellow Hondaheads!
I recently picked up a beauty.  Its a green and white '68 CB350 with 5900 original miles.  It runs great and there's only a few things I need to fix.  The turn signals don't work at all and the starter motor just spins with no effect.  Also the neutral light is in and out.  Anyone out there have any advice on these issues and/or general advice for this purchase.
Thanx....... :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electrical problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricalproblem_t565.html#602</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This happened to me on my CB360 and it turned out to be the ground (-) wire.  Check for corrosion where it connects to the frame.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350 Engine Rebuild Problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350enginereb_t562.html#599</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The engine is in the frame the carbs synched nicely. It all made for a nice trip around the block. I still need to get a timing light and set the timing under dynamic conditions. I can the timing is off when I head up hill ... the engine really struggles. Everything appears to have worked out very well.

Thanks to everyone for helping me work thru this.

Kurt
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350 Engine Rebuild Problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350enginereb_t562.html#587</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well the obvious is usually the problem. The cam gear timing was off ... approximately 150 degrees. I have no idea how I goofed it up that bad. Once I corrected it, the ignition timing fell right into place. 

The engine is back in the frame. I'll try to get the carbs synched by tomorrow and let you know how it turns out.

Kurt
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electrical problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricalproblem_t565.html#586</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Andrew (Kylle),

   Well sounds like you have a stumper, but here are some thoughts:

1. It could very well be that you don't have a good ground. To check; perform a voltage check between the negative battery terminal and the engine case (make sure to penetrate all the surface coatings.) The reading should be zero volts (on the most sensitive meter scale.) If you get a zero reading, perform a resistance check between the negative battery lead and the engine case (for safety remove the lead from the battery prior to performing the check.) Again, you should get a zero ohm reading (anything indicates an improper ground.) 

2. It could be that your battery is dead (yes you can have voltage but insufficient current to drive any lights.) A drained battery could also prevent you from being able to kick-start if it drains the current you generate kicking it over. If you haven't tested the battery that needs to be done as well.

Let us know what you find out.

Kurt
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electrical problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricalproblem_t565.html#578</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i also put a new fuse in as well. a buddy of mine told me to it might have a bad ground. not sure how to check that.
p.s. i put kylle on the last post but i'm the same guy, i forgot i used andrew, my middle name, in this forum.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electrical problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricalproblem_t565.html#577</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hello, sorry it took so long to reply. Yes, i do not have any lights and the kick start does not work either. i'm new at useing a voltmeter but i started at the battery and followed that to the soleniod, and so on... i ended up at the inside the headlight bucket with 12 volts at all ends of the wires. spark plug and starter is also being delivered 12 volts. oh. my parking light works in the back when you turn the key all the way. checked all handlebar switches, there are fine.  any help would be great. 
thanks 
kylle]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: poor running engine</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repoorrunningengine_t403.html#576</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Gavin,

	Have you resolved this issue yet? 

        If not idling that is erratic, too high, or too low is most often caused by incorrect adjustment of the carburetor idle circuit. Also, a dirty air filter of an obstructed fuel tank vent can affect the idle speed. Incorrect ignition timing of worn or faulty ignition components are also good possibilities.

Kurt]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350 Engine Rebuild Problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350enginereb_t562.html#575</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The head is off again. The problem appears that the Left intake valve is contacting the piston just prior to TDC. I've spray tested the valve ... there are no leaks. I still need to remove it and check it with a dial indicator. 

So now the question is; why is the valve contacting the piston? The obvious answer is; I've set the clearance too tight. I set the clearance at:

.05 mm Intake
.10 mm Exhaust

Does anyone have additional thoughts on why the valve maybe contacting the piston?

Kurt]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electrical problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricalproblem_t565.html#572</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Andrew,

As you've noticed, ensuring that the affected connections are clean, dry, and tight can easily solve many electrical system problems. A neglected battery is often the source of a great number of difficulties that could be prevented by regular service to the battery.

You stated that you “had nothing.” Does that include lights? Or is the starter not engaging? Can you hear the starter relay engaging?

You’ve indicated that you’ve checked for voltage at various points.  What are the points that you’ve checked?

We might be able to talk this one through.
Kurt
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350 Engine Rebuild Problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350enginereb_t562.html#571</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ok,

   The problem is definitely on the crankshaft side. I've removed the clutch basket (i.e. disconnected the transmission from the primary drive gear.) The problem remains ... the engines freezes just prior to (LF). Although, it is considerably less frozen (I can pull the crankshaft through the rotation with a bit of effort.) The rotation certainly isn't as smooth has it should be with the plugs removed. 
 
    I'm still looking for ideas on isolating the problem.

Thanks 
Kurt
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>electrical problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/electricalproblem_t565.html#565</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a 72 cb350. bike ran great and all the sudden i have nothing electrical. drove to the store, and when i came back out and turned the key i had no lights no power, everything went dead. it will not kick start either. i replaced the fuse, made sure i had 12 volts at every point with a volt meter everything check fine. before when this happened i would just move the battery a bit and i would get power.
any ideas?
thanks
andrew ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 CL 350 Engine Rebuild Problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cl350enginerebui_t562.html#562</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I need to talk this one through with some one who has a clue as to what the issue may be. 

   I'm rebuilding a 1970 CL350 Engine. It's a complete rebuild including the transmission. The engine has been apart twice. The second reassembly was brought on after the engine abruptly stopped while sync'ing the carbs. Both cam gears bolts (incorrect bolts were used) had sheared, the crankshaft was locked in position and the kick start would not engage.

   I split the crankcase and found the kickstarter had been improperly assembled. Having corrected the obvious faults (kick starter now operates flawlessly) I ensured the crankshaft and transmission hadn't been damaged. Both spin smoothly. The crankshaft also spins smoothly with the pistons installed. So I put everything back together and proceded to perform valve alignments. 

   With everthing proceeding well ... the crankshaft suddenly begins to lock-up just prior to LF (Left Fire) (just off L-TDC) and at the same time the kick starter begins to fail to engage. If I back the crank shaft up a little bit it'll rotate fine through one cycle and lock-up at exactly the same point. 


Any ideas on where to start to look to resolve this problem? 
I'm thinking clutch basket (primary drive gear) or oil pump, but I don't think either would effect the kick-start?

Thanks 
Kurt]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Need a checklist.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reneedachecklist_t520.html#559</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks for the tips and please keep them coming.
Yuriy]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 67 cb350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re67cb350_t515.html#558</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Are you sure it is a 67 model?  K0 was roughly 1968, and k1 model was roughly 69.  Have you done any research to learn the K numbers and what year they correspond to?  Honda at first did not release 350s by year model and you have to go by the K number.
Depends on what shape the 72 model is in before I would accept in as "in lieu of cash" payment.  Be careful.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Need a checklist.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reneedachecklist_t520.html#557</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I recommend that you get a Honda owners manual.  I have a 1969 350cl and I did a search on the bike for the shop manual and there is a company out there that reproduces the Honda shop manuals.  In it you will find the recommended maintenance intervals and items to attend to.  I would select the maintenance interval that does it all and do them one by one.  My manual does not address the carbs.  My suggestion would be to search the internet for mikuni carbs and purchase a carb kit for each of your carbs.
Look on eBay for honda 350 and you will turn up a slew of people selling "stuff" for your bike.
Have fun.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Need help identifying CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reneedhelpidentifyin_t514.html#526</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Caig,

Here is the answer to your question:

http://www.sohc4.us/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=64&Itemid=67

Regards,
Ronny  8) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Need a checklist.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/needachecklist_t520.html#520</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am new to this forum and to Honda 350s. I just bought a '72 CL for $900. It runs good but seems to be having some problems. The sparks fouled after I rode it for a while. I have ordered new aircleaners but haven't messed with the carbs yet. Most of all I would like a checklist for a full tuneup. I have the Clymer manual but am not sure what services I should do in what order. In other words any advice would be appreciated.
peace,
Yuriy ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>67 cb350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/67cb350_t515.html#515</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have the opportunity to restore a 67cb350 for a guy, partial payment will be a 71 cb350. I have googled for pics, and info. on the 67, and find nothing! Is this a good deal? Can anyone here help me out with some pics. and or info?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Need help identifying CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/needhelpidentifyingc_t514.html#514</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi there,

I recently picked up a pretty beat up CB Twin and plan and plan to restore it. I need some assitance though nailing down the year. Anyone know wher I can find a list to decipher the model numbers?

Frame: CB3501018126
Engine: CB350E10507

Much thanks!!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Collapsed float - need help!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recollapsedfloat-nee_t380.html#443</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This was resolved.  Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Carburetor Question / Problem/</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarburetorquestion_t413.html#441</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'll assume you've cleaned your carbs and confirmed you have good fuel flow.  

Check your spark first off, make sure that's good.  Look at your spark plugs too--they can really help with diagnosis of problems.    

Next, I'd say double check your carb setup--idle fuel/air mix screws, idle speed screws (these should be set pretty evenly on both carbs), what's your exhaust pressure like on each pipe?  Should be even, if not, I'm guessing your carb setup is out of whack but if you have holes in either muffler, it's going to make it hard/impossible to get things set-up properly.  Idle should be set to 1,000 to 1,200 rpms.  Be sure your carbs are synchronized, etc.  

After you've done all that, you can pull an air box off and run the bike with the air box off for a minute, with it running, rev the engine with the throttle and watch the slide, if it rises up, you know that the slides are working.  You might check the needles to ensure that they haven't come disconnected from the slides, sometimes that can happen.

Another thing to look at is if your pipes are discolored at all, if so, that could indicate a too lean mix which would mean that perhaps you have clogged jets and/or need to adjust/rebuild the carbs (assuming the slides/needles are working properly).  Another area to consider would be to ask yourself if you've adjusted the valves and the cam chain recently.  All of this can affect how the bike runs.      ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl 350  clutch won&apos;t disengage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350clutchwon_t348.html#440</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Pull off the sidecover where the clutch cable connects to the actuator.  Clean up all your actuator parts, wiping away all the old gunk, being sure to note how they come apart (be careful).  Reassemble everything, put a little grease on the clutch push rod, and then put the sidecover back on and tighten all screws, being certain that you align the push rod with the recess in the clutch actuator when positioning sidecover (this is likely where the problem was before, when it was put on last time the pushrod probably wasn't sitting in the recess).  Put your grease gun on the nipple on the sidecover and give it 3 or 4 good pumps of grease to re-lubricate the actuator.  

After this, try out your clutch, it should be working properly, but it'd probably be a good time to double-check the adjustment for proper free play, etc.

Good luck! ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Collapsed float - need help!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recollapsedfloat-nee_t380.html#431</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi have you tried David Silver Spares at www.davidsilverspares.co.uk he has the float in stock and supplies all over the world.

REGARDS
STUART]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>new mmbr, rusty CL350 owner</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newmmbr rustycl350ow_t429.html#429</link>
	<description><![CDATA[New member here, glad to see a 350 twin specific forum.
I recently acquired a CL that had been neglected out in the weather for some time...so I'm sure I'll have my trials with it.
looking forward to getting/sharing info about these twins!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: hopes, dreams, and problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehopes dreams andpr_t407.html#426</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hang in there Evan. The 350 is a great old bike and it's actually fairly quick when it's running well and in good tune.  I'm actually starting the process of resurrecting my old 350. A guy pulled out in front of me about 16 years ago and there wasn't much left.  Just the motor and some various bits and pieces that were salvaged.  I've been riding other bikes since, but I recently touched base with an old friend and found out he still had a rolling chassis.  Between that and the bits I still had, I've got about 80% of what I need to put her back together.

J]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: hopes, dreams, and problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehopes dreams andpr_t407.html#420</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You may have 5 speeds and you just don't know it.  First gear is one down from neutral.  Clicking up from neutral will put you through the next four gears.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: hopes, dreams, and problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehopes dreams andpr_t407.html#419</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Bill Ferg:

Do you have a 350 luggage rack?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: hopes, dreams, and problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehopes dreams andpr_t407.html#416</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This may not be the right forum for this but....

I've got a ton of extra parts from my projects. 71 and 72 350 twin stuff. Mostly cosmetic stuff. Turn Signals, Tanks, etc.... I f you need anythig let me know.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Carburetor Question / Problem/</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarburetorquestion_t413.html#414</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Dear Kriss,

Are you shure it is a carb problem? Seems to me that this could also be an ignition problem. Best way is to check if you have a clean, strong, blue spark by unscrewing one spark and holding against the head while starting.
Carefull! it is 10.000V
It is possible the ignition advance is not good or the spark is to weak so that at more revs the system halts.

Good luck,
Ronny  8) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Carburetor Question / Problem/</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/carburetorquestionpr_t413.html#413</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ok, working on a 1970 Scrambler CL350. Got the thing running, changed out plugs, coil. Now the motorcycle idles to around 3000, then nothing. And I mean nothing more. I've read a lot of post pointing to Carburator problems. 

I think i've narrowed it down to the vacumn piston not working correctly.

Question: Can i just take apart the whole carbs and be able to tell if these are defective? Should I go ahead and order a kit for rebuilding the carburator?

And funny, another anomility, I spray carb cleaner in the right carb, and then the idle will advance, the left, and it dies. 

Man I love the bike, hate the fuel problems.

Thanks for any help.

Kriss.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: hopes, dreams, and problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehopes dreams andpr_t407.html#411</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Dear biker,

According to my book, the bike should have 5 speeds.

Here you can download the manual (free, after registration): 

http://www.manualclub.com/Motorcycle_Manuals/Download/Honda/Honda_CB_350_1971/

Regards,
Ronny  8) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: hopes, dreams, and problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehopes dreams andpr_t407.html#408</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Edit:  I dont know what the hell i was typing about "reverse" on a 350, but yes I checked it and its only got 4 gears :(   this could be a problem...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>hopes, dreams, and problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hopes dreams andprob_t407.html#407</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all, I just registered as I'm frustrated by looking for parts and diagnosing my 1972 Honda CB350 Twin.  I bought the bike about a year ago for 300 dollars (American).  It had been wrecked before, bent handlebars, cracked headlight cone, bent headlight mounts, fork covers dented, turn signals broken off etc.  It's been a slow journey, but me and my girl are moving along.  Anyway, I'm hoping you guys could give me some suggestions on how to improve her.  

First off:  It's slow.  I've had a lot of experience working on my dad's 75 550 four, so i've troubleshooted some basic things.  Carbs are clean, both cylinders running, spark is strong, etc.  One minor problem is the spring on the choke flap on the left side is broken, so the little flap door hangs down when the choke is open.  Could this be a problem? It's an easy fix, and I'm going to take care of it this weekend.  

The exhaust on the bike has what appears to be different pipes.  The right side, which seems to run stronger and sounds louder has one center hole in the end surrounded by smaller holes.  The left side, which is much quieter, has only the center hole.  Backpressure problems perhaps?  I haven't the slightest...   Any other ideas or suggestions for a boost in power would be greatly appreciated.  

Second:  Clutch/Transmission problems.  It likes to slip/jump out of gear.  I'm guessing this could be a loose clutch spring or worn dogs, perhaps between second and third gear where it seems to happen most.  

Also, is the 72 cb 350 a four speed   reverse or 5   reverse?  Mine seems to be four... I'll double check tonight.  

If anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. This is basically my first bike, and I'm awfully proud of it, no matter how ugly she is.  

I'm missing some parts also:  the retard who had it before me lost the airbox covers, and cut out the factory air filter built onto them, and installed his own foam cylinder air filters.  Perhaps this could be another reason that its not as quick as its supposed to be.  

Thanks again for any suggestions guys.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>67 Scrambler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/67scrambler_t405.html#405</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I posted this in the classified but it did not work. I hope you dont mind.
Hi all, new here 
I have a 1967 305 Scrambler CL77. Everything is there but a previous owner redone the seat and the chrome is gone from it. The fenders have a lot of the plating rusted and a few puts on the wheels and surface rust on other chrome parts. Runs great. If it does not sit one or two kicks will start it. 
I am asking $900 (US)or best offer. buyer responsible for shipping. 
This bike can be a daily rider or fixed up nice. I like it but due to recent health condition I am an unable to fix it up like I had planned. 
I can e-mail pics to anyone interested. 
Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>poor running engine</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/poorrunningengine_t403.html#403</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi guys i mew on here. i have a 73 cl 350' i lve in scotland uk.this bike hasnt run verry smoth since i bought it, it seems to draw back and generaly not pull to clean also it dosnt tickover very clean. but performance in general isnt to bad. i have had the carbs down and ballenced them as best as i can. im not to sure if the timing is spot on, my mate was following me the other day and he said it smells of fuel,maybe getting to much are the float levels critical on thiis bike. hope someone can help.cheers 8) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Collapsed float - need help!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/collapsedfloat-needh_t380.html#380</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I recently purchased a '71 Honda CL350 as a parts bike that I knew had potential to run again (and yes, it does run).  Anyhow, evidently the previous owner had tried getting the bike to run because it appeared that he had tried cleaning one of the carbs, the only problem is that he evidently blew some compressed air into the carburetor and collapsed the float.  Now the float won't float as high as it should in the bowl so the needle valve doesn't seat to stop the flow of gas and I have gas dumping out of the overflow constantly.  

Does anybody know of a way to uncollapse a float:?: 

I thought about seeing if tossing it in some boiling water would cause enough expansion of the air inside the floats to make them pop back out into shape, but I have my doubts that it will work.  I've never encountered a crushed/collapsed float before so I need help if anyone else has ever fixed this problem.  My other thought was that I could always bend the tab up that causes the valve to seat, but I'm hesitant about doing this because I don't know whether it will all work okay with the amount I'll have to bend it.  

If nobody has any ideas on repairing the damaged float, would anyone know where I'd be able to get a replacement at a reasonable price?  I don't really want to purchase a set of carbs off eBay since I only need a float.

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated!  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>350 vs 360</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/350vs360_t378.html#378</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Is the frame the same? My frame has some problems and I got a guy that has a 360 frame. Will the swap work? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>oil leak on left side</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/oilleakonleftside_t375.html#375</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Lookin for an oil Leak on the left side of 71 cb350...Tried sealing cover with rtv but no worky.....
Any help 
thanks
Tj]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71&apos; honda cl350 exhast</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71hondacl350exhast_t354.html#354</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i posted my question in the new users forum under the same subject.  i need some ideas.  thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl 350  clutch won&apos;t disengage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350clutchwon_t348.html#349</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My freind's cb350 did the same! haven't had time to deal with it since his kid burned down a shed in the back yard! At least there were no valuables lost!(including any neighbor's kids)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cl 350  clutch won&apos;t disengage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cl350clutchwontd_t348.html#348</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all.. Greg from Michigan, USA here.. I have a 1970 Cl350  22,000 miles

the other day I pulled in the clutch.. it made a funny metallic sound and then "stuck in".. and did'nt want to return.

the clutch is not disingageing... and the lever has a very strange feel to it.  no amount of adjusting will help

I had the side cover off.. greased the actuator.. it's working fine... I was told that perhaps the clutch end of the actuator rod is worn out and that I need a new one... that sounds a bit easy... looking for opinions

thanks

greg long
fairhaven, mich
1-586-725-3225
powershotman@comcast.net]]></description>
</item>

</channel>
</rss>