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<rss version="0.91">
<channel>
<title>Classic Honda Forum</title>
<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/</link>
<description>All posts in the classic honda forum</description>
<language>en-us</language>
<image>
	<url>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/img/classic-honda-forum.jpg</url>
	<title>Classic Honda Forum</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/</link>
	<width>144</width>
	<height>200</height>
	<description>Classic Honda Forum</description>
</image>
<lastBuildDate>Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:25:10 GMT</lastBuildDate>

<item>
	<title>looking for left hand headlight bracket 350g</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/lookingforlefthandhe_t5021.html#5021</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi.. wonder if anyone can help me locate a 1972 350g left headlight bracket..i am really struggling to find one..mine rusted beyond repair..its the only thing stopping my restoration.any help greatly appreciated... :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB250RS Deluxe</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb250rsdeluxe_t5011.html#5011</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Basically been restoring my bike for about 7 months. Finally got it on the road for it to fail on me 2 weeks later :( . Just before it not starting, it cut out on my twice when I was slowing down for junctions which is obviously fairly dangerous. Getting a spark but not very strong and not often enough. 
Spark plug is new, I've tried two ignition coils, two CDI units and still not getting enough of a spark to start the engine. 
Any ideas? Anyone come across this before? Even if its not on this bike that you've had the problem, just throw the suggestions out and i can work with them.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Beware of Ebay Seller Motomosh71</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/bewareofebaysellermo_t5001.html#5001</link>
	<description><![CDATA[After noticing a "2nd Chance Offer" in my message list. It had expired, and the seller voiced frustration over listing it again after several times. He had the Reserve too high on purpose. I Paypal'd the guy money to only hear more than a 1/2 dozen excuses as to why there's no parts sent. After I Googled "Josh Miller" of Nevada City CA, I found that he had scam'd another and he often sells vintage Honda parts.
You have been fairly warned.
Dean Kusluski]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 engine specialists in the L.A. area</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350enginespecialis_t4991.html#4991</link>
	<description><![CDATA[im looking for someone to take a look at my cb350 engine thats in or around los angeles area. its dosent turn over properly its almost like it gets stuck. if its not a quick fix im looking for a complete rebuild and bore the cylinders out. if anyone knows a good cheap reliable mechanic or shop that can do all that please let me know...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>68 cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/68cb350_t4981.html#4981</link>
	<description><![CDATA[bought myself an old 68 cb350 barn find, bike was in very good condition on being left in the barn, but i did find one carb had the diaphram missing. i fixed the carby cleaned up the fuel tank, new plugs and a petcock, fresh oil, cleaned and unstuck the clutch. several kicks and the old girl fired into life. once she warmed up she idled nicely.
dont know if to keep the bike as is or restore, but she will need mufflers, 15000 miles on the clock, hasnt ran since the 1980s, totally original everything.iam happy with this bike]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>ballistic battery in 72 cb350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/ballisticbatteryin72_t4971.html#4971</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello, I purchased a 72 honda cb350 that I am making into a cafe racer style bike. I have fabricated a fiberglass seat with the bubbled tail piece common in cafe style bikes. I am wanting a small battery that I can hide inside the bubble of the seat. I found some very small ballistic batteries with over the 120 cold cranking amps that I am needing. Will this type of battery work? I had a friend tell me I will need to update the stator and rectifier in order for the ballistic battery to provide consistant charge??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! :lol: ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Achtervering Honda XR250R 1990 BELGIUM/VB</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/achterveringhondaxr2_t4961.html#4961</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hallo,

Ik ben opzoek naar een goede tweedehands achtervering voor mijn Honda XR250R 1990 Belgium/VB.

Pro-link  mono shock.

Kan er iemand mij hierbij helpen?

Julien

Vriendelijke groeten :idea: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Achtervering Honda XR250R 1990 BELGIUM/VB</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondaslxlxrforum_f23/achterveringhondaxr2_t4951.html#4951</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hallo,

Ik ben op zoek naar een goede tweedehands achtervering voor mijn Honda XR250R 1990 Belgium/VB.   Pro-Link monoshock.

Google afgezocht en alleen nieuwe gevonden. 

Kan er iemand mij hierbij helpen.

Misschien zijn er veringen van andere motoren die compatibel zijn.

 
  :idea: 

Julien

Vriendelijke groeten]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hi, yet another Canadian on the site</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hi yetanothercanadia_t4941.html#4941</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I was curious why I haven't seen any 1968 Honda CB175 motorcycles posted anywhere on the Internet, cms seems to be the only place even listing that one exists... I have one sitting at home, it's in great shape considering it's 45 years old.  I've been digging up information from all over the Internet, there's not much, some say it was nicknamed the "sloper"...understandable due to the engine being sloped, one guy said there were only 9 made as demos for the 1968 Tokyo motor show... I can't see that being true, one stated that they were sold everywhere but the USA, from what I've read they are more or less a hodge podge bike made of CB160 parts.  Anyway what I was wondering was if anyone had any information on my bike, thank you very much for any reply.
P.S.- it hadn't ran for ever from what I was told... But you guessed it, it's a honda, once I got the carbs sorted out, it made three rolls and started... Ran rough but started, thanks again]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;72 SL350 won&apos;t start</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72sl350wontstart_t4931.html#4931</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Art,

Sorry I don't have an answer for you.  In fact, the reason I came to this forum is I have the same problem.  I bought this motorcycle non-running.  I have done everything that should make it run.  New plugs and points, timing adjusted.  Valves adjusted.  Carbs overhauled.  I have spark to the plugs when I ground them to the side of the engine.  I can squirt starting fluid into the carbs and even that doesn't pop.  My bike doesn't have a kill switch.  Does yours?  Hope we get an answer.

David]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>&apos;72 SL350 won&apos;t start</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72sl350wontstart_t4921.html#4921</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm trying to start my 1972 Honda SL350 after a complete teardown/rebuild.  I have checked the timing, compression, get a spark with plug outside of cylinder when cyl#1 is coming up to TDC yet motor won't start. I even poured some gas directly into cylinder #1 with the piston at bottom of stroke coming up to TDC - and don't even get a cough. Granted I could have things off a bit, but everything has been double-checked and I should at least get ignition of the gas poured into the cylinder. I have also eliminated the wiring harness as a factor by removing the " " battery cable and substituting a jumper directly to the coils from the ? ? battery terminal terminal.
Any ideas?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>decals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/decals_t4911.html#4911</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi all,
does anyone know how to apply the metal tank decals on a c50  1973 ? i thought they were sticky backed but they are not
thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Big trouble with gear shift</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/bigtroublewithgearsh_t4901.html#4901</link>
	<description><![CDATA[HI , I have a 1997 honda dominator NX650 , my gear shifter is stuck in third gear and its impossible to move the shift lever , do anyone have a solution ?

Rune / Norway ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: DR 125 se 1984 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/redr125se1984_t4891.html#4891</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check the wiring of the indicators for any loose or broken wires and connections, check the indicator control switch located on the handlebars. Hopefully it might just need a little bit of tlc and cleaning :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Looking for NEW {83611MR8920ZA - Side Cover*type2*] for 1996 RVF400</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/lookingfornew83611mr_t4881.html#4881</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Looking for a NEW Right Hand Side Seat Cowling for 1996 RVF400 RT.  

Part Number: 83611MR8920ZA - Side Cover*type2*



]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: piston rings, and carb questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repistonrings andcar_t4871.html#4871</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Where are you locaed?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb750 f2 1997 swing arm</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb750f21997swingarm_t4861.html#4861</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ hi there can anyone help please, what other swing arms fit a cb750 f2 1997 will a rc42 or a night hawk swing arm fit or one from a 94 cb750 or what was tyhe difference in them can some one shed any light on this ,thanks ron]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>piston rings, and carb questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/pistonrings andcarbq_t4851.html#4851</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey my name is Thad and i am new to this forum I have a few questions.I   recently pulled my fathers 71' cb350k3 (I believe) out of storage and it currently will not run. I took the jugs to an engine machinist and he ran some hones through them to get rid of some very light surface rust. the rings where junk however and I have looked around online and cant seem to find stock size rings. Also I have been told it was parked after one of the carb diaphragms went bad. All of the aftermarket ones I can find seem crazy expensive to me. any help would be appreciated. Oh and one more thing what brand gasket kits have people had the best luck with? thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>400 4 manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/4004manual_t4841.html#4841</link>
	<description><![CDATA[does anyone have a website to get a good factory manual for a 1975 cb400f?
i was also wondering if anyone knew of a relaible source of modern tires for a 1975 cb400f.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1981 Honda CB650 Cam Chain Guide </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/anyotherideas_f12/1981hondacb650camcha_t4831.html#4831</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm in the process of re-building my 1981 CB650 and when I stripped the top end I found that the front cam chain guide was broken clean in two.
Honda have stopped making this part and all my efforts so far have not turned up one for sale anywhere. Is there anyone in the community who could help me find one. Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1974 Honda SS 50 ZE Sports Moped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1974hondass50zesport_t4821.html#4821</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I know it's a crass question but I need the room!! I have all the bits of this motorcycle. The engine block is in fine fettle but the frame is well er 'weathered' shall we say. I need to sell this. I also have a pretty immaculate Haynes repair manual for it too. Anyone hazard a guess as to the 'private sale' value of these items?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>400 4 front brake</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/4004frontbrake_t4811.html#4811</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi, does anyone have a clue on the special way to un-seize the front calliper on a 75 400 4?, thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>honda cb400f</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/hondacb400f_t4801.html#4801</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone, i am new to this online forum! i recently aquired a 1975 honda cb400f. the previous owner told me that there was a special way to un-seize the front brake calliper? could anyone help me out? if so i would greatly appreciate it!
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>74 550 four</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/74550four_t4791.html#4791</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anybody know if any other year's gas tank is interchangeable am having a hard time finding a replacement in my price range]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>brake rotors</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/brakerotors_t4781.html#4781</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know if the ft/brake rotors from 500 interceptor(87) will fit hurricane 600 ft/wheel?,also 1987.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>modified 350s</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/modified350s_t4771.html#4771</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Just wondered if anyone has modified 350s,bobber,caferacer,dragracer,ect ect.
If so what mods to frame,engine,suspenion ?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Looking for a rear fender</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/relookingforarearfen_t4761.html#4761</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi saw some nice fenders on ebay,but no nos,a few looked very good.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re:  What is the biggest tire and rim on standard swing arm</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewhatisthebiggestti_t4751.html#4751</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Ive had the old 500/16 harley wheel on a cb350,at present i have a 140/90 15 on my sl and it fits fine]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>new member</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newmember_t4741.html#4741</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Im new here and have rode and raced 350s for over 30 years.
I currently have a 71 sl with a cb motor i built in 1979,and raced till 1985.
Parked it till 2006 then make a street bike out of it,still runs strong.
It has a old powroll 435 bore kit,megacycle cam and ported head with cb450 carbs.Has extensive frame mods,rebel 250 swingarm and shocks,cb350g ft/end,to many mods to list now
I also have a 72 sl,that im building to take to bub at bonneville this year,has factory honda racing piston that take it to 350cc at 12/1 compression,cl175 fuel tank,cbr600 rear wheel and brakes,vt550 ft end and brakes,duck monoshock swingarm
mated to cm250 swingarm,hand made header,megacycle cam larger stainless valves,kibbelwhite springs,balanced crank,electronic ing,dodge minivan coils,solidcore wires,and much more.
I look forward to talking with folks that love 350 twins.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Looking for a rear fender</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/lookingforarearfende_t4731.html#4731</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What are the chances there is still a NOS rear fender for a 1968 CB350 out there? If anyone knows or has links/contacts I would appreciate it. Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Box of Bits</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/reboxofbits_t4721.html#4721</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, I own a '77 400F and it runs fine.Do you know if the engine will turn over?? Is it also in a box? Now may be the time to have the cam chain checked;it is the bike's weak link. Of course at the same time the pistons ,valves, bearings  etc can be looked at.How is the frame? Rust free? In other words, before you put engine back in frame, have a competent mechanic look at all the bits and pieces and have them fixed beforehand. Adrian]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>DR 125 se 1984 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/dr125se1984_t4711.html#4711</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ :cry:

 Indicators sometimes work sometimes don't. Have checked battery output and changed relay.Please help!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb 350 k service manuals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350kservicemanua_t4701.html#4701</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Could you please send me a copy of the CB350 manual as I lost mine when I moved from South Africa.
Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title> What is the biggest tire and rim on standard swing arm</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/whatisthebiggesttire_t4691.html#4691</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi All
what is the biggest tire and rim you can fit on a standard swing arm on a CB 350 twin.
A little cutting on the swing arm is OK and off set sprocket.

Cheers 
 :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Mikes CB450 Black Bomber</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/mikescb450blackbombe_t4681.html#4681</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Mike, a gread bike from Soichiro Honda . Congratulation]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Cam Sprocket Setting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350camsprocketse_t4671.html#4671</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If you have just got it 180 degrees out of phase, all you need to do is switch the blue and yellow leads from the coils to the points and  bob's your uncle.  Of course, now your timing marks will be reversed but that beats pulling the engine, eh?

Cheers,
Chris Finlayson
Existential Motorcycles
Alexander, NC
Excited States]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch works intermittently</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchworks_t4661.html#4661</link>
	<description><![CDATA[no, it won't get better on it's own.  The screws that hold the cover that holds the one-way clutch rollers and their tiny springs in place may have backed out - and that may have let one or more of the rollers and springs loose to rattle around on their own.  It's not a hard fix - just pop off the stator and there you are.

Cheers,
Chris Finlayson
Existential Motorcycles
Alexander, NC]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>I&apos;m newbie! Need shipping to Vietnam</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/buyersguide_f9/imnewbieneedshipping_t4651.html#4651</link>
	<description><![CDATA[A big hug to everyone,

I come from Viet Nam. And I need to buy some honda parts from our website cmsnl.com .

So pls show me the way to ship these parts to my country.

These parts below:

1/Honda Grips set
http://www.cmsnl.com/products/grip-set_00000kit0023/

2/Honda Emblem R-L Tank 
 http://www.cmsnl.com/products/emblem-rtank_87121051693/
 http://www.cmsnl.com/products/emblem-ltank_87122051693/

Help me pls!

Thanks everyone.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>VAMOS TN360</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondan360microcar_f19/vamostn360_t4641.html#4641</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just got hold of a vamos originally brought into australia by HONDA AUSTRALIA back in the 70's.



]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: HONDA DREAM 350 MF 1957</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/rehondadream350mf195_t4631.html#4631</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Alan, I would like to correspond with you in view of gaining more photographs and information regarding your Honda MF350. Can you please respond to me ? tony.sculpher@nord.com


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;The very 1st.&apos; CL250 &amp; CL350 KO Export models ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/thevery1stcl250cl350_t4621.html#4621</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone,I'm a new member with a un-restored 1968 CL250 KO,which,came with a full 350cc boremodels.My CL250 KO was the 1st.one to be registered in Australia in July 68.Any Information on the very first ones would be appreciated,cheers,Craig]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CL250 KO Historic info wanted</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/cl250kohistoricinfow_t4611.html#4611</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone,I have just joined the forum and look forward to finding out more about my Australian CL250 KO.Ref to ; CL250 Owners page for more details,cheers,Craig ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB750FB -1981 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/recb750fb-1981_t4601.html#4601</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks Broeslie,
Trouble is they are all the CB900 version not the 750!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB750FB -1981 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/recb750fb-1981_t4591.html#4591</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Treforissa,

I found some bol D'or models right on 
.

Does this help  :?: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB750FB -1981 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/cb750fb-1981_t4581.html#4581</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all.
Just joined this forum as I have bought a CB750 Bol D'or to restore. I don't seem to be able to find this model on the CMS extensive list of models. Am I missing it??
I hope to restore the bike over the winter and look forward to sharing it here as well as asking a lot of questions I expect!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1979 cb550 engine swap...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/re1979cb550engineswa_t4571.html#4571</link>
	<description><![CDATA[that's right, it's a 78]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1979 cb550 engine swap...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/re1979cb550engineswa_t4561.html#4561</link>
	<description><![CDATA[correction: it's a 78]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1979 cb550 engine swap...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/1979cb550engineswap_t4551.html#4551</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,
I'm trying to bring back to life my first motorcycle, a 79 cb550. When I was young I let it slowly burn off the oil and the engine seized on me.
Now I want to put a new engine/trans in her. Will anything other than a 79 550 engine/trans work? or can I get away with a couple of years before/after or a 750 engine/trans?
I appreciate it, thanks!
-Current oil checker]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 Honda CL350 Speed issue</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73hondacl350speedi_t4541.html#4541</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I figured it out.  Turns out that the air filters that were purhased off ebay was chocking out the Carbs.  So going with a bigger jet was getting it way to much fuel.  I went smaller 100 to be exact and it work out great. she is doing 75 - 80mph in which that is all I was really looking for.  I love this bike.  Retro and Fun  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 honda ct90 for sale</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/minibikes_f17/1970hondact90forsale_t4531.html#4531</link>
	<description><![CDATA[For sale is a 1970 honda ct90. I was a one owner bike. 1,900 miles. It does run,but will need fine tuning. It is in excellent shape. Looks to be complete. Sorry no registration.In central NY $850 call 315 eight six three 4585 or email jmanny66@aol.com
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: K4 ignition coil - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rek4ignitioncoil-hel_t4521.html#4521</link>
	<description><![CDATA[According to the catalogs I have, Accel sells some that will work with your k4.  Non cdi coil set, 3 ohms, 2 coils, 4 boots, sparkplug wire hanger brackets, 9mm yellow silicon wire (not copper core), about $215.

Matt]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1977 Honda CT125</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1977hondact125_t4511.html#4511</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have 2 1977 Honda CT125 bikes. Both are in good running condition.One has only 1255 miles , the other 2475. I'm getting way too old and want to sell them. I would like to know what would be a "fair and reasonable" asking price ? Thanks, Lorne]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 400 Four Exhaust wanted</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb400fourexhaustwa_t4501.html#4501</link>
	<description><![CDATA[they only make aftermaket exhaust for this sort of bikes, for a honda 350 four its 800 euro's  :( ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350f remote oil filter?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb350fremoteoilfil_t4491.html#4491</link>
	<description><![CDATA[just keep it the original oil filter and you have no troubles at all ;-) 
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 k2 carb trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2carbtrouble_t4481.html#4481</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Good idea. Make sure when you order your kit that it has the right float valve set. I got a kit that had a float valve that was considerably longer than the stock valve and didn't match the standard float height for that carb causing the valve to close way too early. Here's a link to a post I put up showing a pic of the difference in valve length.

http://www.vjmog.com/ftopic-9134-days0-orderasc-15.html

Of course you can change the float height to accommodate a longer valve but it's a little tricky. I just bit the bullet and ordered the OEM valves from the Honda dealer. 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350f clutch issue- </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/cb350fclutchissue-_t4471.html#4471</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 

So i've been tinkering with my clutch for a little while. It's a 1983 Honda CB350f in fantastic shape, but when I bought it the bike had an almost un-usable clutch. So I took it apart and had new friction disks (back six) and some new springs, soaked the disks over night and did a bit of de-burring on the basket. Then, once it was put back together the clutch lever was phenomenally hard to pull, so I did all the adjusting to reset the pull and made sure it was catching at the right point. To no avail I've had it apart 4 more times to double check its reassembly, remove springs, try the original springs. Nothing seems to be working. Possibly an issue with the cover and the lever mechanism that pushes into the basket to remove pressure? Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

Sincerely, 
Jacob Mailman]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350f remote oil filter?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/cb350fremoteoilfilte_t4461.html#4461</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone offer a remote oil filter for cb350 fours? Can I adapt an automotive style remote filter? I haven't removed the stock one yet but I imagine the filter threads on, and that the return passage could possibly be threaded with an npt fitting, no? Any help would be greatly appreciated. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Grab bar for what bike?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/grabbarforwhatbike_t4451.html#4451</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey All - I have a grab bar in excellent condition that I think is a Honda part. It won't fit my '71 CB350. It's too small. I'm thinking it's from a smaller CB. Below are the dimensions. If you are in need of one, I can email pics.

Thanks.

Overall length 13-1/4"
Turn signal mount to shock mount end-to-end measurement 9 1/2"
Shock mount side-to-side inside measurement 9-5/16"
Frame mount side-to-side inside measurement 7-1/2"
Turn signal mount side-to-side inside measurement 6-3/4"]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Cam Sprocket Setting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350camsprocketse_t4441.html#4441</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check if the ignition is crossed, I have done that before.    :( ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 honda 350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72honda350_t4431.html#4431</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Max HP is around 50 you will ever get out of these babies and it will cost you a ton of cash.
Fram is weak to start with as well as the suspension, but hey, you have the cash, anything can be done.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CL350 Tachometer / Speedometer</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350tachometerspe_t4421.html#4421</link>
	<description><![CDATA[They are held with screws and rubber.  Shouldn't be a problem disassembling them.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Engine Swap CB for CL?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reengineswapcbforcl_t4411.html#4411</link>
	<description><![CDATA[CB and CL have the same motor.  The SL is different due to missing electric starter.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 k2 carb trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2carbtrouble_t4401.html#4401</link>
	<description><![CDATA[And if I may add,... it's never a bad idea to get a repair kit to replace the jets and seals.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb 350 k service manuals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350kservicemanua_t4391.html#4391</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Do you still have the manual available?  If so, could you send it to jcgonzal83@gmail.com?  Thanks!]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: 73 Honda CL350 Speed issue</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73hondacl350speedi_t4381.html#4381</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yeah... I was thinking it was compression as well.  I was told that I can place a little oil in the cylinder and see if the compression goes up.  If it does I was told that the rings are bad.  If not then it should be the Valves.  I have not checked the valves yet.  I did tighten up the timing chain tensioner, and that really wasn't all that loose.  
I replaced the points and used a Dwell Meter to make sure the points were as close to the right gap best as possible. If I have to pull the top end off that's not a big deal.  I was looking forward to a winter project anyway  :?  

Now do you think it might be the Jets???  I mean when I get to the 5000rpm in 5th it just pops at me like it isn't getting enough fuel.  I pulled the plugs after a ride I went on and they weren't wet, but they weren't exactly white either.  All well I will try the oil trick to see if the rings are bad or not.  By the way the bike only has about 9000 miles on it.  So for the age of the bike and what I paid ($200 bike   350 parts) guess putting some more time and money isn't too bad.  ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: 73 Honda CL350 Speed issue</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73hondacl350speedi_t4371.html#4371</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Gary - I'm not an expert by any means but the low compression is likely your problem. That compression is pretty marginal. A bike will run at that compression but not well, which seems to be what you're experiencing. Assuming the carbs are functioning properly and your timing is good, it's probably a matter of the low compression not handling the load on the engine at high speed. It's probably time for cylinder honing and new rings especially if it has a lot of mileage on it. Some might say the cone filters are the problem. I have no experience with that so I couln't say. Sounds like you have the skill to take the top end off and get new rings in there. You should probably replace the cam chain and rollers while you're at it. You'll be able to see the condition of the rollers once you get in there. In fact, if you remove the tensioner you can see the bottom roller. If it's badly chewed up then you'll know the top one is in the same condition. Of course you'll have to split the cases to replace the chain. It's a lot of work but doable. If you don't feel you can handle it, take the engine out, which is really easy to do, and take it to a shop that specializes in vintage bikes. Dealers won't even touch a bike that old.

You're probably looking at $500 with parts and labor. Check with the shop before you buy any parts. Some shops won't use customer parts.

I know this sounds like bad news, but you could easily spend far more than $500 if that chain jumps a roller or a piston ring breaks. Like the old saying, "the cheap man pays twice."

Just a thought. Good luck]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 k2 carb trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2carbtrouble_t4361.html#4361</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ooops. I meant the bottom of the carb not the bottom of the bowl for the fuel intake. The bottom of the bowl is for the overflow outlet. Sorry. ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Trouble Starting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/retroublestarting_t4351.html#4351</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Nate - You may have an electrical problem. Check your points wire to make sure it's not shorting out on the points case or cover. This is common on the CBs and CLs. The braided wire sheaths fatigue over time and cause shorting or arching against the case or cover. This will allow you to get intermittent spark to the plug but will not provide consistent spark for firing. I had that very problem. Make sure the end that connects to the bottom of the point is not touching anything that would cause shorting. Those connectors are small and flimsy. Also, check where the wire connects to the coil lead under the tank. The right wire is blue (left is yellow) It may be loose from vibration. If the wires or connectors look bad then replace them as they will only get worse over time.

Good luck.

Dmoore]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 k2 carb trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2carbtrouble_t4341.html#4341</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Warren - I had the very same problem recently. It could be many things but usually either your float valve needle is stuck or the float height is wrong causing the valve to close before enough fuel reaches the jets. Be sure to clean the float valve seat, valve body, and needle thoroughly and make sure the needle moves up and down freely. Then check the float height. It varies depending on the model of carb. That should have a Kei Hin carb. There is a model number on the side of the carb body that corresponds to your engine serial number, assuming you have the stock carbs. Check the info below. I have 3Ds on my 71 CB350 so my float height would be 26mm measured from the edge of the float chamber to the top of the float. Also, make sure your intake passage is clear. That's where the fuel line comes into the bottom of the bowl. Shoot compressed air up through the intake post and you should feel it come out into the bowl.

Dmoore

Carb model 350A
engine serial # 1000001- 1045164
Float level 19mm
Standard main jet #60 primary #115 secondary
Standard slow jet #38
Idle mixture screw initial setting 3/4 turns from closed
Idle speed 1200rpm.

Carb model 3B & 3C
engine serial # 1045165- 1065278
Float level 21mm
Standard main jet #70 primary #110 secondary
Standard slow jet #35
Idle mixture screw initial setting 1 turn from closed
Idle speed 1200rpm

Carb model 3D, 722A, 726A, 728A 
engine serial # 1065279 and subsequent
Float level 26mm
Standard main jet #68 primary (722A,726A# #70 primary #3D,728A#
Secondary #70 #3D,728A#, #105 #3D, 722A, 726A#
Standard slow jet #35
Idle mixture screw initial setting:
3/4 turn from closed #3D#
1 1/8 turns from closed #722A, 726A, 728A)
Idle speed 1200rpm.
  ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Won&apos;t shift up into second </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350wontshiftupin_t4331.html#4331</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Rusty - I sesee there were no replies to your shift problem. Have you figured it out? I have the same problem but have pretty much eliminated the clutch. I think I may have pinched the shift linkage when I put the cases back together after replacing the timing chain and rollers. What did youfind was the problem or have you?

Thanks.

DMoore]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: xl80s wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondaslxlxrforum_f23/rexl80swiring_t4321.html#4321</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Maybe this will help you a bit : http://www.motelek.net/schema/honda/cb50j_at_6V.png

Must be almost the same wiring. 

Good luck, Alex]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb350 k2 carb trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350k2carbtrouble_t4311.html#4311</link>
	<description><![CDATA[my dad acquired a cb350 k2 from his lil brother, we cleaned carbs, new battery, fixed points, new starter. the only thing is the bike feels like it wants to start but the left carb is not getting any gas but the fuel line has gas in it.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>honda 400/4     trouble selecting gears when cold</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/honda4004troublesele_t4301.html#4301</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,i have a honda 400/4   1976 uk model and I  hope someone can throw some light on the above problem,when the engine is cold the gearchange is a little stiff and is reluctant to select a lower gear from the one selected.   Occasionally if I select the next higher gear and then attempt a lower gear it will select.    This only lasts for a couple of miles or so until the engine starts to warm up then it works normally.    Iv'e changed the oil  (  semi synthetic )and checked the clutch adjustment.     Don't really want to start stripping down until I know what the problem is.        Thanks   John :?  ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>cbx 750 motor,i&apos;d like to run it in a different frame</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/cbx750motor idliketo_t4291.html#4291</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a 1984 honda cbx 750 which i bought recently and knew nothing about.i want to run the motor in a different frame and as the cbx has oil in the frame can i run it with an oil tank and how big does the oil tank need to be.would appreciate some advice please,regards steve.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Lindbergh Co. in Japan</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/lindberghcoinjapan_t4281.html#4281</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi All
beware of Lindbergh Co. in Japan  :twisted: ,they sell books and poster
A few months ago I paid for a poster of Honda race bikes from the 1960's and have been ripped off.
After many emails and even a phone call to them,( from Australia which was fun) nothing.

Be warned

Richard]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CL350 Tachometer / Speedometer</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cl350tachometerspeed_t4271.html#4271</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How do you dissamble a CL350 tach or speedometer?  It appears that you must remove the crimped ring around the outside.  If so, can that be done without destroying it?  Can it be re-used?  Or is there some other way to get it apart?  Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Trouble Starting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/troublestarting_t4261.html#4261</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1973 Honda CL350. Recently it was having trouble with the idle circuit on my right cylinder. Every now and then the bike would bump down to only the left cylinder. I thoroughly cleaned the carbs, checked my points, compression and timing. Put it all back together and it won't even start now.

I checked spark, poured gas into the cylinders (several times) but the gas poured out in the exhaust and didnt even burn up. If I have spark and it is getting fresh gas what remedies, advice or experience can you throw my way? I have the summer off and intend to keep working on it till I can ride it care free.

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb 350 k service manuals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350kservicemanua_t4251.html#4251</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hy, can you send me the manual for the 350 to moldousa@gmail.com
thanks appreciate that]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Countershaft Cover Stuck</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/countershaftcoverstu_t4241.html#4241</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This is my first bike and my first time working on a motorcycle. I have a 72 CB350K. I have been trying to remove the countershaft cover and it's not budging. I removed the shifter lever and the 4 screws holding the cover. The Clymer manual says that you don't have to force any of parts but it's not moving. Am I missing something?

Please help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73 Honda CL350 Speed issue</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73hondacl350speediss_t4231.html#4231</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am new to the site so this may have already been covered, but I couldn't find a post on it.  I have a 73 Honda CL350 that I have rebuilt the Carbs (not re-jetted), cut the mufflers off and placed baffles, and I have taken the stock air filters and replaced with Cones.  My compression in the pistons runs around 150 in the left and 135 in the right ( i know we should be around 180 in both). Other than that, I have given it new plugs, fuel line, fuel filters, battery ect...  

So the issue is the bike will not go over 60mph.  It will run perfect from 0 - 40 but in 4th gear it won't go over 6000rpm, and then in 5th it won't go over 5000rpm.  In 5th the bike just sputters and won't rev any higher nor go any faster. 

I was thinking it could be that the Secondary Jet needs to be replaced, but if that is the case would I go with a bigger or a smaller jet?  Or is that even something I should be considering?  I have not done any jetting to this bike, and the previous owner had no clue how to work on it, so I am sure he didn't do anything as well. Any help or even Ideas being thrown around would be great. 

Thanks in advance. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>K4 ignition coil - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/k4ignitioncoil-help_t4221.html#4221</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Guys- well in checking my compression I appear to have fried the coil- yes I know NOW I should have disconnected the LT feeds. However I didn't. New coils are unavailable for this bike but its a pretty low tech item and I have to believe that most of the honda twins would have a very similar spec even if they differ in physical form. Has anyone tried to replace the K4 coil say with the 250N unit? Any other ideas?

Cheers
Mike]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB250 K4 carburettor adjustment</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb250k4carburettorad_t4211.html#4211</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi nGuys- I see there's a lot of stuff about carbs here so I guess its a perennial topic! I am restoring 2 CVB250 K4s. Both start and run but both have the same feature- I don't call it a problem yet... the first thing is that for each the air screws seem to be very close to fully in (rich)- maybe 1/2 turn out but thats all and this seems quite close to me. The second thing is that when the engines are warm and I shut them down- both give me a hissing sound- not sure if this indicates a head gasket leak which maybe would account for needing a rich mix but I can't really localise this hiss so I can't say for certain its from the head/barrel join. Also when shut down presumably there isn't anything under pressure any more that might hiss anyway?

Ideas anyone?

Cheers
Mike]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Ss50 lifan wiring loom source</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/ss50lifanwiringlooms_t4181.html#4181</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know where to get a new wiring loom to suit a Lifan ignition to suit an SS50 or C50? I have the CDI and flasher, etc.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: xl80s wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondaslxlxrforum_f23/rexl80swiring_t4171.html#4171</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have just purchased the same bike myself and the bike came with the original manual wich actually contains a schematic. If you can get the schematic it will give you an overview of what this job entails. I will be doing some electrical work on my bike myself soon I will keep you posted on my progress.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electronic ignition</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/reelectronicignition_t4161.html#4161</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Phil you are the only person to answer my question.I did read your article from a member of your club who lent me the mag you made the fitting sound very simple but i am sorry not simple enough for me.i have not long finished a 7 year restoration on the bike I saw one in the 60s and one  came up at a bike shop near me and the rest is history.Where are you in the uk .I live in Cambridgeshire.
Thanks Richard]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electronic ignition</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/reelectronicignition_t4151.html#4151</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Richard

Did you ever get a reply on this ? If you are a VJMC member you should have seen an article I had published in Tansha last year (?). 
Basically very impressed with the results.

cheers

Phil]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>1973 Honda CL350k5</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1973hondacl350k5_t4141.html#4141</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What up?  I live in the US Indiana.  I picked up a 1973 Honda CL350 off Craigslist for $200, and have been spending money on it ever since.  I plan on doing a Cafe/Bobber style out of it.  Cafe handlebars and Bobber seat.  I am looking forward to seeing the final product. Anyway, joined the forum as I have never rode a motorcycle, nor have I ever worked on one, and will probably need help down the road.  I mostly work on Cars.  08 VW GTI.  Well that's it.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t4131.html#4131</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I picked up a 1973 Honda CL350 for $200.  The guy wasn't sure if it ran.  I took it home hooked up a battery and hot wired the iginition.   She started on the first crank. AMMAAAZZZZINGGGGG.  The guy told me he couldn't get it to run and lost the key years ago.  Re-gapped the plugs, and away she went.  Needs some tuning, but for $200.00 craigslist is the best place for used bikes. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Cable and fuel pipe routing CB250K4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cableandfuelpiperout_t4121.html#4121</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Y'all- I posted this on the new users but I guess its not too visible there- so aplogies for the re-post here in tach.

I am rebuilding a CB250 K4- well two actually from a very large pile of bits- I never had one before and always wanted one! Anyway most has gone back together OK and once I cleaned the carbs at least one of them is running OK - the second started, ran and then stopped- so far resisting efforts to restart! However, leaving that aside I have a couple of niggling questions... stuff so obvious that its not in the manuals! 
1. Does anyone know where I can get a diagram of the correct routes for the control cables around the frame and under the tank- mine seem untidy and stretched. For instance-Do the speedo and Fbr cables go inside or or outside the fr mudguard stay- either route seems to offer potential dangers of snagging on either the wheel or the scenery!
2. The fuel tap position leads the fuel pipes down, around and across the motor- but actually touching seems a bad idea- should they hang free and if so how do you position that? Similarly the wires to the flasher unit seem awfully close to the head?
3. Does the cross pipe under the fuel tank go under the frame (good for fuel flow) or above the frame tube (much better for tank removal!)
4. The honda manual talks about balancing the carbs by using exhaust pressure- how is this even possible without blocking the exhausts and screwing the engine breathing anyway- but if it is possible how do you do it and what do you use? Haynes just speaks of adjusting them individually and more conventionally.

Anyway cheers- all and best of luck with your own projects!
Mike]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>hi from Norfolk, UK</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hifromnorfolk uk_t4111.html#4111</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, I am Jim, living by the coast in Norfolk on the East coast. I am currently working on a VT500EF and have just collected a CB100N for my son Adam (13) who shares my enthusiasm! I am sure I will have a few technical questions for you guys as work progresses.
Since owning the VT I realised how little info there is around on the model so I have built a site  with a growing number of road tests for anyone interested. Many thanks, jim]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB250 K4 Cable routings</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/cb250k4cableroutings_t4101.html#4101</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all- continuing the cb250 K4 resto I am currently replacing cables and fuel pipes. Does anyone know a source for the recommended cable routings around the bike- Mine are stretched and seem untidy and my manual doesn't give the correct routes. Things like under tank but above mounting rubber- or through the handlebar bracket? Which one goes in front of which? Any help for a reference guys?
Thanks
Mike ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 Cam Sprocket Setting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350camsprocketsett_t4091.html#4091</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Greetings All-I recently replaced my cam chain, rollers and tensioner on my 71 CB350 and now I'm having all kinds of trouble setting the timing. Nothing is aligning right. I have great spark at plugs and points. The valves slackened as they should for adjustment at the LT and T marks so they are set right. I have brand new points and plugs in. All wiring connections are good. The iginition switch is ON. I'm getting fuel flow. What I'm not getting is the engine to fire up. It just pops and spits. 

I've tried the test light routine and moved the backing plate all over the place with no good results. I've read all kinds of ways this is supposed work. Some say the light should come on at LF other say is should go off at that point. 

Per the manual, the timing is correct if the left point begins to open at the LF mark on the compression stroke. I have just the opposite. The right point opens. What I dread is when I set the sprocket with the L mark straight up at LT on the rotor, I wasn't truly on the compression stroke. I'm assuming that puts the cam lobes in the wrong position for timing. Is this the case? 

I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who really has experience with this. I have a lot of time, and money, tied up in this so I'm not about to walk away from it. If I have to pull the engine and reset the cam sprocket I'll do that, or whatever it takes, to get this right. So any bad news is pretty much expected. 

Great thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB250 K4 1973 new resto</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/cb250k41973newresto_t4081.html#4081</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi- Y'all- I bought this bike on a whim- its been sitting reproachfully in my garage ever since and so, some 5 years later, I have got around to trying to get it sorted. A few problems immediately just a few of what I would guess are many more yet to come but having replaced the missing parts, inserted a new battery and stuck in a new fuse the bike remains resolutely dead electrically. Nothing works- lights/starter?/horn/indicators - anything. On tracing the wiring this bike seems to have been "modified" and much of the wiring is non-standard- not sure really what is connected to what- but currently I am mystified by a plunger type switch lashed under the seat with insulating tape. I can't find this on any parts diagrams- does anyone have any idea what it is?  Strangely- it doesn't seem to pop up in order for the the seat to press it down when closed so I'm guessing its not an interlock to stop you riding off with the seat raised (which would I suspect be impossible anyway!). I am wondering if its an aftermarket anti-theft device in which case I guess I can bypass it- depressing it doesn't change the operation anyway; But I'm sure someone will know better!!
Suggestions anyone?
Cheers
Mike]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1973 Honda CB250</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re1973hondacb250_t4071.html#4071</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well after a lot of reading and trying to find out what the bike is I found it. it is not a cb250 like i thought but a CL250S.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Engine Swap CB for CL?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reengineswapcbforcl_t4061.html#4061</link>
	<description><![CDATA[And...

I just realized someone just asked this question, and it sounds like they would fit. Can anyone else verify this is true?

Thanks again, and sorry for the redundancy. 

Braiden]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Engine Swap CB for CL?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/engineswapcbforcl_t4051.html#4051</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 

My '69 CB350 is currently out of commission, and with my current time restraints, I don't think I'll be able to finish the rebuild for some time. Someone is selling a '72 CL350 in good condition for a good price, but it doesn't have a title, so I couldn't get it registered. Does anyone know if these engines are interchangeable on the frames, or would I have to modify engine mount placement and such to make it work?

Thanks!

Braiden]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 honda 350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72honda350_t4041.html#4041</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have 2 1972 Honda CL350 bikes: one is totally stock, the other has a seized engine which I removed. I want to put in the most powerful engine I can fit into the frame. Will a 450 fit? How many horsies can i get out of the 350 if i have it rebuilt/modified? Any of you old Honda guru's have any ideas what route I can go. I'd like to NOT have to cut/modify the stock frame any more than necessary to make somethin fit.
Steve 612-382-3845
nixshaus@comcast.net]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t4031.html#4031</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 71 Yamaha CS3 twin 200cc 2stroke oil injection in great cosmetic and running condition if anyone is interested in buying.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>starter clutch works intermittently</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/starterclutchworksin_t4021.html#4021</link>
	<description><![CDATA[starter motor works perfectly, but the starter clutch only catches occasionally. it's got 9k miles on it and has been sitting for who knows how many years so that the question arises: Is this something that will come back to life with usage or do I really have to fix this? Really?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>hi all</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hiall_t4011.html#4011</link>
	<description><![CDATA[rode a '74 CB750 the last four years, currently on a heavily modded KZ 650 SR and just got done building a '71 CB 350 that came out looking and riding very sweet. it's for sale on craigslist (Colorado/Western Slope) if anyone is looking for a superclean bike. 
Next projects are a 360 CL cafe, a 350 SL "flat tracker" and then there's another KZ650 frame waiting to also be made into a cafe.
Built my first moped when I turned 14, crashed my DT175 when I was 18, rode XT500's in Australia and California and once I smoked a KZ1300 LTD police edition in traffic in Orange County, on a SL175!
Then there was the '76 XS 650 (what a dog) and a 2003 Drifter 800 that was too good to be true before someone turned left in front of me.

I am what you might call an "enthusiast", and living in Western Colorado by the Utah border.... it doesn't get much better than this; desert to the west, canyonlands to the south, rolling hills to the north and the most ungodly mountain passes to the east, and almost no traffic along with the most sunshine in Colorado!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t4001.html#4001</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i've got a '71 350 that has been completely gone through for $2200.-.
Check it out on craigslist.org under Colorado/Western Slope.
A lady friend of mine just bought a survivor, one family owned, always garaged for $1600.- and it still took me about a week and a bunch of parts to just get it to run right and for everything to work again.
I've found basket cases for under $500, but for a clean bike that's ready to go, well you'd have to get very lucky (and it does happen).
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1964 CA 150 Honda Benley</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/1964ca150hondabenley_t3991.html#3991</link>
	<description><![CDATA[  Could anyone tell me the correct procedure to adjust the clutch on this cycle and also the  settings for the mixture screw and which one is the mixture vs. the idle screw as when I turn either one there is no response so must be a problem some where in carb.  Is there an on line manual anywheres as I don't have a manual on this or the 1968 CD 175 Honda which look to be the same engine except for the 175 is bored out to 174 cc.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>spark plug </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/sparkplug_t3981.html#3981</link>
	<description><![CDATA[help anybody know the correct spark plug gap for my 1982 honda cm 400 t  ive been told the gap changed on the 1982 models]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 Honda CB250</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1973hondacb250_t3971.html#3971</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I all I have just getting a CB250e Hurricane, it is about 1973 but it came with no log books or reg plate. Is there away to find the reg out using the frame number or engine number. This bike is a lovely bike and I wish to restore it.
Many thanks
Dave ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 Won&apos;t shift up into second </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350wontshiftupinto_t3961.html#3961</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just ran the bike for the first time today since 1983. It shifts into first and neutral just fine but won't go any further up into second. I inherited it from my dad and tore it down to have everything repainted. He says it ran wonderfully when he put it in storage and it has 6300 miles on it. 

Could I have shift lever in the wrong position? Would that even prevent it from shifting any further? 

What about clutch adjustment? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB 400 Four Exhaust wanted</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/cb400fourexhaustwant_t3951.html#3951</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi I am chasing a new original full exhaust for my 400/4 supersport 1976. Are they still available? What can I expect to pay ?

Any assistance greatly appreciated
Richard :?: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacing  Insulator gasket - do I need sealant ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacinginsulator_t3941.html#3941</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It's never a bad idea so you get a nice tight seal.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;69 CB350 Rebuild Thread (questions)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cb350rebuildthre_t3931.html#3931</link>
	<description><![CDATA[That's great.  It sounds like you are having fun with your project already.
Keep up the good spirits because it will get a little frustrating now and then.
I'm sure you will get through it just fine.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3921.html#3921</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Parts are cheap and readily available.
Honda imported 326,000 units to the US alone.
As far as I know it still holds the record for most bikes ever produced and sold.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CL/CB ENGINE and compatibles</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reclcbengineandcompa_t3911.html#3911</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It would, but why would you do that?
The CB/CL 450 had a better frame configuration.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hello for Sunny Southampton</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/helloforsunnysoutham_t3901.html#3901</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey there fellow enthusiasts... How we diddling today.. Great weather we having down here on the South Coast at the moment.. But my CB750C is on the lift in the garage being rebuilt slowly so no riding for me for a while yet...Such is life.. Not much about myselfother than i am a Hydraulic service engineer but default, with my own small hydraulics business.. On the side line due to the fact that you can't get side covers for the CB750C any longer i decided after a long search to make my own.. With some clay and a original left side cover i made a mock up and produced a fibre glass copy, it was a bit larger that the original.. And then got lucky and managed to get an original right side cover.. So in case i broke the original i made a mould of the part.. and i could make me another as i needed... So i decided that there are a after  long search a few other models that have problems with these covers  and then found a Right side cover for a CB750SC 1982 that i have taken a mould from too.. And so i have started collecting these rare right side covers I now have a CB650 Custom Right, CB750 Custom Right,CB750 SC Right,  CB900 Custom Right, CB1000 Custom Right.. All originals.. I am busy repairing small fractures and then repraying them to go on my garage wall... Should be great when they are done.. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CL/CB ENGINE and compatibles</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/clcbengineandcompati_t3891.html#3891</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a cl 350 and im looking for a new engine. i know that the cl and the cb are the same thing so thats not the question at hand. i want to know if a larger cc(450) will fit on the bike if the engine is just replaced completely
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Kickstarter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/kickstarter_t3881.html#3881</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My kickstarter no longer catches where it should, but now either catches only very low in the swing or fails to catch totally.  This is a 1970 CB350K2, and is not ridden much.  This is a new problem within the last week.  I have not yet pulled the side cover off, but was wondering if anyone had any ideas. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3871.html#3871</link>
	<description><![CDATA[bike bandit has a good supply. Look at there site to get an idea. Ebay is also a good place too.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>quiet muffler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/quietmuffler_t3861.html#3861</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have some after market pipes on my cb350 and they're loud. does anybody know of a quiet pair out there?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3851.html#3851</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you for the replies, I have read some where someone paid $500 for a running CB350 but cannot find it any where near this price. It's mostly between $2000-4000. Are parts for these CB hard to find and expensive? This is what I'm afraid of.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 Honda CB 350 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969hondacb350_t3841.html#3841</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The best advise I can give you is get or download, a shop manual.
The CB/CL/SL 350's are pretty mush straight forward.
With the manual you can do everything yourself.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3831.html#3831</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The wise guys are right... it is worth what you are willing to pay.
However, if it doesn't break your bank, pay what you are comfortable with.
Pricing has gone up because of this "Cafe`Racer" craze.
Most I spent on one is 1,200.00 USD in good, running condition.
It's up to you.
It's not always easy to use emotional intelligence when it comes to toys.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350oiltype_t3821.html#3821</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have read that you need oil that is specialy made for "wet clutch" engines. It's siad that the oil will say O.K for wet clutch motorcycle engines. (No detergents or aditives!) Then what ever weight that fits your use.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethinkingofbuyinga7_t3811.html#3811</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just got a 72 cb350 in O.K shape. It runs but the carbs need rebuilt. I'll do it my self. I paid $1900 for it. i'm in florida and everything i've seen was between 2000 to 4000. Some say that 500 for something in o.k running shape. Like I say I never saw deals like that. Some wise guys will say it's worth what you are willing to pay for it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;69 CB350 Rebuild Thread (questions)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cb350rebuildthre_t3801.html#3801</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just wanted to let everyone know that the tool mentioned above fit perfectly, and with the help of a screw driver lodged between the filter housing and the clutch housing, I was able to remove the lock nut with ease. 

Onward!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Eletric Staters</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/eletricstaters_t3791.html#3791</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If you have prombles with your eletric stater and you can't find parts email me @ niemannbill13@yahoo.com 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;69 CB350 Rebuild Thread (questions)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cb350rebuildthre_t3781.html#3781</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks for the well wishes, and the lead on the tool. I found one over at motion pro (Part # 08-0015), and though not listed as a Honda tool, the description mentions that it should fit. If not, I'll check out the one at Bore-Tech.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Thinking of buying a 71 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/thinkingofbuyinga71c_t3771.html#3771</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all,

This guy is selling a 71 cb350 twin in decent condition, no rust and everything is still original. It's been sitting in his garage for a long period of time; it will start and idle but when giving gas it stumbles. The paint has faded on top of tank, he's selling it for $1500, this would be my first bike, is this a good price?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: mt 250 1973</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/remt2501973_t3761.html#3761</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Conversion is not a problem and the advantages are obvious really.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re:  1973cb250k4 coils problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/re1973cb250k4coilspr_t3751.html#3751</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Generic coils work actually well.
Seeing that whoever it was wired 6V with 12V, I would suggest to rewire the entire bike just to make sure.
I use a PAMCO instead of points and they work great.
You should have no trouble with this bike.
They were built quite sturdy.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;69 CB350 Rebuild Thread (questions)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cb350rebuildthre_t3741.html#3741</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,
Have fun and good luck with your rebuild first off.

There is a socket you can acquire at Bore-Tech for the oilfilter removal.

I never heard that you had to pay attention on TDC for disassembly.

Important is though, lots of ziplock baggies and mark them well.
Take your time and do it right.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;69 CB350 Rebuild Thread (questions)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/69cb350rebuildthread_t3731.html#3731</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all!

I'm rebuilding a '69 CB350 this winter with a few friends, and I was hoping to tap into some good advice. We've removed the engine (a little early, I think), pulled the side and valve covers, and now were stuck on two things. 

1. Do I need to put the engine in TDC before removing the cylinders and breaking the case. We're split on this one, and I don't want to find myself stuck during reassembly. 

2. I need a wrench to remove the locknut inside the oil filter housing. Does anyone have one they want to lend or get rid of? If not, do you know where I can score one. 

I'll also be posting some pics as we progress. 

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>intro and age of bike question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/introandageofbikeque_t3721.html#3721</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi everyone,
my name's Mike I live in south Devon and I have just got a honda cb250 k4 to add to my XL185 and Triumph Trophy.
The CB250 hasn't got a number plate and as I intend to register it with an age related plate I was wondering if it possible to tell the age from the frame no ( cb250-5017977 )
Mike]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Replacing  Insulator gasket - do I need sealant ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/replacinginsulatorga_t3711.html#3711</link>
	<description><![CDATA[New Honda CB 350 owner and I am replacing the carburetor insulator and gasket and I'm wondering if I need to use gasket sealant like you would on a car's head gasket.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Joe]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Non Starting CB 400/4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/renonstartingcb4004_t3701.html#3701</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You need new jets]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: My CB 350&apos;s</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/remycb350s_t3691.html#3691</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Get a workshop manual]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1973 CB350 not charging</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/re1973cb350notchargi_t3681.html#3681</link>
	<description><![CDATA[First I would see if the strator is still magnetic.
Then I would clean with mineral spirit and a brush.  Paint brush would due.
If you do not have any magnitism, you need a new rotor.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Sparking Plugs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/resparkingplugs_t3671.html#3671</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would invest in a workshop manual.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda ss50 Motor Oil</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondass50motoroil_t3661.html#3661</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You can use Synthetic, Semi or Conventional oils, doesn't matter.
10W40 is a good choice.
The low number is the cold scale and the high number is the heat scale.
20W50 is normally for turbo charged engines, so I would be a little careful with that grade.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 CB350 3d kei hin carbs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/re73cb3503dkeihincar_t3651.html#3651</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The slider carbs off of the SL models work well and will not cost you an arm and a leg.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1978 cb400a starting issue (stubborn problem)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/1978cb400astartingis_t3641.html#3641</link>
	<description><![CDATA[im currently ttempting to help a relative get his 1978 cb400a Hawk back up and running. we have replaced the battery and ran thru everything and theres no serious issues (that we can see). the bike was parked in 84 and has 2600 miles on it. we get all lights fully functioning. When we push the electronic start button...nothing. there are 3 wires in the starter housing. the red/yellow running to the starter agnetic switch is hot with key on, the black wire has constant power as well, the black/red wire has power, but when the starter button is pushed it drops the power. Now on the starter magnetic switch, theres a green/red wire that splits to the changing relay and neutral indicator light. and also the red/yellow from the starter switch. ive tested both and they are both hot with key on, then drop the power when the starter switch is pressed(this is while one or the other is disconnected. when both are connected, im reading 0 at the starter magnetic switch (?!?!) heres part of the confusion... if i disconnect the green/red, about 2 inches above the SMS and ground the wire going into the SMS, the bike will turn over..... it seems to me that there is an issue somewhere in either the yellow/red wire or green/red wire.... PLEASEEE help me because this has us both scratching our heads... i hope i provided enough info but if not please ask specifics... ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Four</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb350four_t3631.html#3631</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi be very careful taking these chrome shrouds off you will need them off in order to replace the fork seals if they need replacing try soaking them in oil for a few days then you will need to find a clamp of some sort like an oil filter removal tool or similar and hold complete fork in a vice use a cloth between clamp and shroud in order to protect the chrome and it should be clamped down at bottom of shroud where its solid move the clamp to and fro in order to free it be patient and it should ease off dont damage it as they are impossible to get hold of they can be rechromed if u want hope this helps regards berty]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350oiltype_t3611.html#3611</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Mineral based 15W-50 Motul or AGIP seemed to be the best choice that worked for me. Mineral 10W40 is hard to find.
Always keep the oil change periods(1000 miles or 1500 km) seems short but  there is no actual oil filter, just the centrifugal.
Otherwise Your cylinder head won't get enough lubrication and will get heavily worn and noisy.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Front End Upgrades?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refrontendupgrades_t3601.html#3601</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If you do this, you use the entire front-end.   :roll: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Parts Number Cross Reference Table</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/partsnumbercrossrefe_t3591.html#3591</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,

Is there a cross reference table to find the new equivalent of the old Honda part numbers? I am trying to find out what bike a C723963 exhaust seal/gasket is for.

Thank you]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Solenoid and Starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resolenoidandstarter_t3581.html#3581</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You have a short somewhere between ignition and starter.
Starters can be rebuild.  Kits are available.
I don't think yo fried anything.  The 350 twins are pretty simple and straight forward.  Just need to trace things.
My suggestion,... get a shop manual.  You can download one for free online.  That makes life so much easier.
If you need any more help, let me know.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cl350 Carbs Help -1970</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350carbshelp-197_t3571.html#3571</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If you have a salvage yard somewhere close, you can normally get carbs for $ 20 or # 30 USD.  If you find some carbs and the membrane is still intact, use some vasoline on them to keep them flexible and from drying up.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350oiltype_t3561.html#3561</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Oil is up to you.  Go with a brand you feel comfortable with (10W/40).
Personally, I use Castrol.  Oil change intervals are more important and that you clean out the oil filter.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>xl 250 s</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondaslxlxrforum_f23/xl250s_t3551.html#3551</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all. Just bought a 1981 xl 250 s. It's in pretty good condition but needs a little attention, mainly the brakes and choke cable. etc. Just wondering if someone can give me a quick education on the difference between the s, the r, the xr and any other models for the purpose of buying parts. i.e. are they interchangeable and to what extent. If this info is already laid out somewhere could you point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB500 info</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb500info_t3541.html#3541</link>
	<description><![CDATA[best idea would be to get copies of the parts lists for the 500's and 550's .. that tell you which parts are interchangeable ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>WTB: 1973 Honda CB350 four upper fork bridge</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/wtb1973hondacb350fou_t3531.html#3531</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anyone selling or know where I can find an upper fork bridge (p/n 53230-333-305) for a 1973 Honda CB350 four?

Thanks,

Mike
jenkinsm3@rogers.com]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Early 70&apos;s cb350 2cyl into a mid 70&apos;s cb750 frame???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reearly70scb3502cyli_t3521.html#3521</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Oh it will work, but why are you doing this?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: I need help with my kick start spring!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reineedhelpwithmykic_t3511.html#3511</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It's in the manual really.
Download it for free if you don't have it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 68 cb350 carb problems?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re68cb350carbproblem_t3501.html#3501</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The carb is set way too rich.
Check the jets and needle as well as adjuster screws.
Also check and recheck the diaphram rubber.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>date my CP77 from engine/frame number</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/datemycp77fromengine_t3491.html#3491</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Please tell me when I was made....Engine no: CP77E 1500718. Frame no: CP77 1500723.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: selling my 500Four</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/resellingmy500four_t3481.html#3481</link>
	<description><![CDATA[sold the bike yet ?, if not where are you ?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>68 cb350 carb problems?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/68cb350carbproblems_t3471.html#3471</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The bike will start up and run fine until it gets even a little bit warm, then it will choke itself out on gas.  When I restart it wont go above 1200 rpm, and that is with the throttle wound out all the way.  If I shut the petcock off and wait then the gas starts to run out and it revs up like normal.  the float valves are set at the correct height.  the carbs are clean and as far as I can inspect the rubbers on the carbs are in good shape.  Please help! and thank you]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>xl80s wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondaslxlxrforum_f23/xl80swiring_t3461.html#3461</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1983 xl80s that I am fixing for my son to ride.The bike is stripped of all lights and switches.I have no wiring harness.There are 4 wires exiting magneto cover.Does anyone know how I can wire this bike up to get it running ?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Carburetor Issue on 75&apos; cb 200</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recarburetorissueon7_t3451.html#3451</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Double check your throttle cables. It's easy to mix them up and put the right side into the left carb and vice versa. Getting them twisted can take up all the slack in the line and cause the high rev you described. I can't find it offhand, but there's another post on here that addresses the issue in more detail. Good luck. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cl350 Carbs Help -1970</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350carbshelp-197_t3441.html#3441</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have patched the diaphragms with silicon, (available at any parts store). They will last a while, but it's better than buying new ones. The brass nipple can be reinstalled successfully. I clean the nipple with carb cleaner, brake cleaner, acetone, etc., and use loctite retaining compound (green). It holds really well. On both repairs, use the silicone and loctite sparingly. some other things to check; make sure the slides are clean, I polish them with a good metal polish, make sure the needles aren't bent or worn. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hello everyone</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/helloeveryone_t3431.html#3431</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, my name is Wilson and Im new to the forum. I currently own (2) 1971 CB350's
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Cl350 Carbs Help -1970</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cl350carbshelp-1970_t3421.html#3421</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey you guys, new to this forum, and I just got ahold of a 1970 Cl350.

I've started off by taking off both carbs, and giving them a rundown, because the bike has not been on the road in 30 years.  Both diaphragms have 1 very small slit in both of them, about 1/4 of an inch long. How successful can I be with patching the slit up? Because 100$ hurts for a set of new ones.

And also, upon removing one of the fuel lines, It pulled out the brass nipple with it.  Did I just majorly screw something up? Or can I just shove the piece back in upon installation of the carbs?

Any tips on cleaning these carbs besides the obvious? 

I am in high-school, so I'm definitely not Mr. Moneybags haha.

Thanks Guys. I hope I can be of some help here.

-Nick]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350oiltype_t3411.html#3411</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey, if you look on your oil fill cap, it says 10w-40 right on her.

So just any 10w-40 oil that your comfortable with.


Have a good day.

-Nick]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 19 inch wheel on 1970 CB350???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re19inchwheelon1970c_t3401.html#3401</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would have liked to do this as I do a fair bit of gravel road riding and I liked the idea of getting an aventure tyre as there are plenty in 19". Here in New Zealand there are nil choices in 18" adventure tyres to fit the Honda.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 19 inch wheel on 1970 CB350???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re19inchwheelon1970c_t3391.html#3391</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would have liked to do this as I do a fair bit of gravel road riding and I liked the idea of getting an aventure tyre as there are plenty in 19". Here in New Zealand there are nil choices in 18" adventure tyres to fit the Honda.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Best manual for rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebestmanualforrebui_t3381.html#3381</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I found the honda shop manual best. Sometimes the manuals say assembly is the reversal of dissasembly which doesnt help if you start with a pile of bits. This is where a parts book comes in handy or the parts fiches online as they have exploded veiws of how the parts go together. These are fun bikes to work on.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1972 Honda CB 350 Exhaust Question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1972hondacb350exha_t3371.html#3371</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I used Dunstal replicas on my CB350. Works for me.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Mid RPM surge/stumble. Any ideas?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remidrpmsurgestumble_t3361.html#3361</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I found timing with a timing light more accurate than static timing. I had what I thought was carb problems turned out one of the coils was malfunctioning when the engine warmed up. Also make sure the valves are set correctly.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 generator rotor removal tool</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350generatorroto_t3351.html#3351</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi I use a spare rear axel.
Screw it in a few taps and its off.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CL350 K4 riding problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350k4ridingprobl_t3341.html#3341</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Man, I would sure like to get an answer to your question. Please get back to me if you figured it out. I had a problem with mine at freeway speeds veering one way then the other. I tried jiggling the handlebars once at 60 and the damn thing nearly went berserk. I put the bike up on its stand in the driveway and pushed the rear of the back tire back and forth and it MOVED, Not a good thing. I had to replace worn rear pivot bushings. they were barely worn but I doesn't take much. Very dangerous - I don't know if that is your problem but I would certainly check it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350oiltype_t3331.html#3331</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I can't believe 29 motorcyclists read your post and none of them bothered to answer. That is what forums are for. I bet those same folks gripe about their posts not being answered. I once posted this question on another forum and got several immediate replies. All of them advise me to use good quality motorcycle oil - especially if the bike has a wet clutch, which yours does. I am no expert but my CL350 is my 7th Honda. As I read through the posts I see a lot of questions that I could have asked but they have 0 responses as well. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New Honda CB350 Owner </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewhondacb350owner_t3321.html#3321</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I found my manual online last year. It was easy. A printed manual can be found sometimes on ebay but pricey. Mine is a CL350 but nearly identical. email me at nirdlobkin@yahoo.com and I will send you the file if you cna't locate one..]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Box of Bits</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/boxofbits_t3311.html#3311</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've bought a complete CB400F 1977 for 100 quid as a project for over the winter months, its all there just in lots of boxes. Could someone advise where they would start rebuilding the bike, i'm not a bike person but i've messed about with cars, got the workshop manual and a box full of spanners .
I look forward to reading your replys]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Lights dim over 3000 RPM</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350lightsdimover_t3301.html#3301</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I disconnected the original Honda voltage regulator (under the battery) and the problem is resolved! I had installed the recommended Radio Shack bridge rectifier last year which apparently also regulates the voltage. I wish someone had mentioned to remove the present voltage regulator for this modification. Lesson learned.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB 350 Lights dim over 3000 RPM</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350lightsdimover30_t3291.html#3291</link>
	<description><![CDATA[CB350 has new fully charged battery. Runs great and lights get brighter when revving so I know the gen is working. Gen voltage goes from 32 to 40 something when increasing RPM to over 5ooo RPM. I have checked the regulator with an ohmmeter and it checks good. However, when I rev engine over 3000 RPM all the lights dim and there is no charge from the generator. It seems as thought something is shunting the excess current to ground. I have spent hours online but can find nothing about this exact problem. Please advise. Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb350 generator rotor removal tool</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350generatorrotorr_t3281.html#3281</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I bought a 2 inch 16mm bolt with 1.5 threads. Bottom it out with vigor and rap the head a few times with a hammer. Mine took over 20 firm hits but it came off with no further probs.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cl350 oil type?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cl350oiltype_t3271.html#3271</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks for the help guys! i rewired the bike and only the rectifier was fried but probably didn't hurt to get a new one.

does anyone have any recommendations what brand and how often i should change the oil?

Also, how many miles on average do these engines go for if properly maintained? My bike is a 1970 cl350 and it has 16000 miles on it. i ride it about 10 miles every day.

thanks

eric  

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>New Honda CB350 Owner </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newhondacb350owner_t3261.html#3261</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Guy's,

I just purchased a 1968 CB350 and would like some help restoring it. If anyone could provide me the follow information it would be greatly appreciated.

1) Owners manual
2) Repair manual
3) Suggestions or ideas for restoring the bike

Thanks  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Oil Pump Screen Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350oilpumpscreen_t3251.html#3251</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It does take some disassembly.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: high revving in neutral and when stopped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehighrevvinginneutr_t3241.html#3241</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would also go through the carbs.
Never hurts.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1973 cb350 replacement master cylinder???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1973cb350replaceme_t3231.html#3231</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Replacing is NOT a bad idea.
Really depends if you want to keep it original or make it individual.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Mid RPM surge/stumble. Any ideas?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remidrpmsurgestumble_t3221.html#3221</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Also check, membrane and timing again.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Mods??</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remods_t3211.html#3211</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How late are you thinking?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 honda cl350 fried wires question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970hondacl350frie_t3201.html#3201</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Wires are easy and cheap to run and replace.
Like said previously,... the other components are not so cheap.
But first things first, run new wires.
If you have a service manual, the diagram is in there.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1972 Honda CB 350 Exhaust Question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1972hondacb350exha_t3191.html#3191</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It's not that difficult to make your own.
Sheds some weight as well.
Hi-Pipe/Scrambler type gives you a better torque curve.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Coil wire</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recoilwire_t3181.html#3181</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It is definitely time for a new one.
Even the cheap/low cost ones have better reliability.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>selling my 500Four</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/sellingmy500four_t3171.html#3171</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have had it for over 20 years, but its time to find it a new home.
Any suggestions what a running nice 500/4 is worth in the UK?
See pics at http://www.go-faster.com/Honda500Four.html

thanks
paulg@go-faster.com]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Mid RPM surge/stumble. Any ideas?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remidrpmsurgestumble_t3161.html#3161</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I had this same problem with my 1973 cl350, that range is controled by the primary main jet. I had a number 70 and went to a 72 that has solved the problem and it has good acceleration through the rpm range with no hesitation. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 honda cl350 fried wires question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970hondacl350frie_t3151.html#3151</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, 

Well the true answer to your question is that you really wont know until you replace the melted and fused wires. If funding isn't an issue and since you are tearing the electrical system apart it might be beneficial to replace them anyway. However, from a purely electrical stand point, the things I would probably worry about the most would be the rectifier and the condenser. But if the wires melted together chances are they found a ground some where and that may have saved it all. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Coil wire</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recoilwire_t3141.html#3141</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I had the same problem, I attempted to fix the my coil wire on the original ignition coils and found that while I was able to do it with some success I didnt fully trust the repair. I found a replacement coil from a guy parting out his 350 for a low cost and just went with that option. I would suggest a new coil, plus if you have the originals it might be a good thing to replace them anyway. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 cb350 replacement master cylinder???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1973cb350replacement_t3131.html#3131</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 

I am working on building a cb350 cafe racer and the original master cylinder is rather in pieces of rusty mess and I was wondering if anyone knew of a good replacement. I have considered getting a rebuild kit but I think it might just be easier to replace the entire thing.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Coil wire</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/coilwire_t3121.html#3121</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Can you repair or replace a broken coil wire, or is it new coil time?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Mid RPM surge/stumble. Any ideas?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/midrpmsurgestumblean_t3111.html#3111</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey guys. I have a little problem with a mid range surge/stumble, and hope you all might be of some help. 
I have re-done the carbs, installed the proper jets, new points, plugs, filters, fuel line and rebuilt the petcock. It idles like a dream, has plenty of power up to about 5000 rpm's and then starts to stumble and doesn't seem to want to go. Back it back down to around 4000 rpm's and it runs perfect. It seems to do it when it's warm. 
I have not changed the condensers, checked the timing, adjusted the cam chain or adjusted the valves. 
I do have a touchy key switch that has a connection problem. It died on me on the way to church, losing all electrical power. I fiddled with the wires behind the switch and it started back up. It's done that one other time to me. So I also wonder if the stumble isn't caused by the poor electrical connection at that RPM where maybe it has just the right vibration? 
I read a saying years ago that went like this; "90% of all carb problems are electrical." And it sure appears to be carburation, on the surface. But the carbs were meticulously cleaned and rebuilt, everything works as it should. 
So what do you guys think? 
Oh and one other thing, what do you do about a throttle hand that goes to sleep after only 15 minutes of riding. I do not have this problem with my HD Road King]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1972 Honda CB 350 Exhaust Question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1972hondacb350exhaus_t3101.html#3101</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey all, I have a 1972 Honda CB350 twin scrambler type with the high pipes. I would like to switch to the normal low pipe. Original or aftermarket does not matter. I am just looking for something inexpensive. Any ideas or suggestions for a good fit for a good price? Or anyone want to trade low pipes for high ones?

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title> 1973cb250k4 coils problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/1973cb250k4coilsprob_t3091.html#3091</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a 1973 honda cb 250 k4. the bike has been wired up using one 12v coil and one 6v coil which seems wrong to me. here is how it's wired : wire from kill switch to one terminal on each coil plus a bridge wire from same terminal. one wire from each coil to either side of the condenser and to each side of the points. the bike runs like this but ideally i would like to set it up how it would have been originally. my main question is: can i use generic coils? the ones for this bike seem immpossible to find, does anyone know the specs for these coils, do i need to add another condenser (original diagram shows two condensers but not sure if the one on the bike is correct), is it possible to convert it to electronic ignition without selling my first born? can i use coils that aren't hard wired? why did they do that! makes no sense. if ht lead breaks down coil is useless. if anyone has a circuit diagram that explains how to put this together please contact me. wyattnoel@yahoo.co.uk. HELP, I'M DROWNING.. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1978 Honda C 70 ReWiring Job?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/re1978hondac70rewiri_t3081.html#3081</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Tom,

There are some  on this site. Perhaps your machine is enlisted as well.

Good luck rewiring!
 :lol: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1978 Honda C 70 ReWiring Job?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/1978hondac70rewiring_t3071.html#3071</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all,
I've got a lovely old Honda C 70, it runs perfectly but the electrics in it are totally wrecked. I took it to a mechanic because I don't know anything about electric stuff and he told me I'd have to basically replace the whole wiring system, because the previous owner had done a bit of a cowboy job on it, and I'd be better off doing it myself as it would be a quite expensive job. I was just wondering if anyone could give me some advice as to how to do this. No tip too basic! I have a wiring diagram but  I don't know where to start really, where would I even get a wiring loom? Any information at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Tom.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 honda cl350 fried wires question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970hondacl350friedw_t3061.html#3061</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello
I have a 1970 Honda cl350 that ran perfect! i left it over at a friends and apparently the battery died because he left the key on. He then, not knowing anything, tried to jump it with an industrial sized car battery jumper that im sure was way to many amps and whatnot! because he said as soon as he gave it power, smoke started pouring from around the battery!

now that i have trailered it back to my house, i have taken off the: seat,air filters, gas tank,and battery box. So now that all the wires are exposed, i can see that most of the close wires were melted together completly!

My main question is, once i have all the wires replaced (i can do that myself), what is the probability that something else is fried from the power serge? ie. rectifier? starter? or really anything else? 

Thanks in advance for your answers, and i apologize for the beginner question!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Wow.....</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/rewow_t3051.html#3051</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well, you just wrote a message, so it isn't dead afterall :lol: 

Anyway, I think the best way to keep things going, is just to post relevant questions...

Other suggestions are welcome too!

c ya]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Wow.....</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/wow_t3041.html#3041</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Forum is pretty much dead huh?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1975 Honda Cb200t battery</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1975hondacb200tbatte_t3031.html#3031</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey all, first time poster on this forum. I'm not totally sure whats going on with my bike, and there is so much information on the internet that its kind of hard to wade through it all. I just got this motorcycle two weeks ago, and within a week the battery was completely dead. I came to realize that there is a way to get the key out of the ignition that leaves the tail light on. I replaced the battery and have been diligent about making sure I was turning the key the right direction and it ran like a charm for two days, even had enough juice to use the electric start! But today when I went to start it, I couldn't even push start it, it was just totally dead. I plugged it into the trickle charger for about three hours and it seemed fine when I first turned the key and then went totally dead again after trying to kick start it a few times. Have you all ever had a wiring problem that drained your battery? I don't know whats going on with it but I'm pretty frustrated and not good with electrical stuff at all. I'm supposed to ride out to my friends wedding in a week, but at this rate I'm kind of scared to...any suggestions?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Carburetor Issue on 75&apos; cb 200</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/carburetorissueon75c_t3021.html#3021</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi everyone. I have been trying to deal with this problem for quite some time, but can't seem to figure out how to solve it. I have a 1975 Honda CB200 in my garage that my friend left and neglected to ride it since May of last year. I haven't been able to attend to it regularly since my primary bike is a 1977 suzuki GS550. Ever since it fell into my hands, I have been having trouble with its carburetor performance. At first, it died whenever it idled with the choke closed. After trying different settings with the air screw, as well as the idle screw, I decided to investigate further and take the carbs off. After taking them off and opening up the float bowls, I checked the floats and their respective heights, which appeared to be normal. I unscrewed the Main Jets, inspected them for damage, blew every ventricle in the carb with a high-pressured carb-cleaning spray, and screwed them back on. Afterwards, I reinstalled everything properly and started it up again. The first thing I noticed is smoke coming out of the exhaust, which led me to believe that it's running too rich. The RPM on idle goes ballistic when I try to run it, revving up to 8000. I tried it on different air screw settings and idle scew settings once more, but with no avail. The bike would run for a minute or two and simply die. Also, whenever I tried to twist the throttle, the bike revved erratically and died shortly after. I would like to know if, according to the symptoms, you think the problem is that the mixture of the carbs is too rich, and if so, how do I lean it out?  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Sissy Bar for 1972 Honda CB750 K2</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/sissybarfor1972honda_t3011.html#3011</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Been looking for a sissy bar/back rest for my 1972 Honda CB750 K2 everywhere and I am not able to find one. I know these were not stock on the bike when they were built, but I have a little one that wants to go for short rides with dad, and I would feel better having something to keep him from possibly tipping off the back. If anyone has any ideas where I could purchase something that would mount up correctly  out of the box I would greatly appreciate it. I have already been to Ebay and have found one new that I am not sure will mount to my back bar and the others listed need a bit of work due to rust. Thanks again everyone.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t3001.html#3001</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've had a 71 cl350 for a year now and agree with John that most hiccups are due to carb issues. Are the carbs clean? Like really f'ing clean? Also run it up the line, literally. Fuel lines clean and clear? Petcock in good shape? Tank clean? 
I bought mine from a guy who had the good sense to repaint the tank without covering the gaping hole on top. So I can tell you for sure that metallic orange paint flakes are bad food for honda engines. I've heard regular old dirt isn't great for them either. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Bouncing Tach</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/bouncingtach_t2991.html#2991</link>
	<description><![CDATA[72 CB350K..  Tach bounces but motor sounds good... Prob the tach?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Mods??</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/mods_t2981.html#2981</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anyone tried to use a later model seat/tank on there CB's...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>electronic ignition</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/electronicignition_t2971.html#2971</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Has any one fitted a sachse ignition to a cb72   :roll:  :roll:  :roll: 
Thanks Richard uk
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Hello. Newbie trying identify three Dreams...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehellonewbietryingi_t2961.html#2961</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Upon further research, I think at least two are not Dreams, but Benlys. The third (the bluish one) isn't labeled as 160 or 150 on tank, so it may still be a Dream. Not sure... Anyone have any ideas?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>mt 250 1973</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/mt2501973_t2951.html#2951</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Has anyone converted an Elsinore to 12v.What's involved and are there any advantages?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Hello. Newbie trying identify three Dreams...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehellonewbietryingi_t2941.html#2941</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you, Broeslie.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Hello. Newbie trying identify three Dreams...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehellonewbietryingi_t2931.html#2931</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Rick, 

I think these are the correct urls:







Let's hope someone can help you with identifying these bikes.

Cheers!

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Hello. Newbie trying identify three Dreams...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehellonewbietryingi_t2921.html#2921</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Got Pics...
http://www.cmsnl.com/my_account/my_vehicles.php?id=23391
http://www.cmsnl.com/my_account/my_vehicles.php?id=23371
http://www.cmsnl.com/my_account/my_vehicles.php?id=23381]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Hello. Newbie trying identify three Dreams...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehellonewbietryingi_t2911.html#2911</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Have a few pics available of the three, just can't post on here...
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hello. Newbie trying identify three Dreams...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hellonewbietryingide_t2901.html#2901</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ Just came across an offer where I would acquire one of three Honda Dreams. A 65, or one of two different 67's. The man has two Cushman scooters (59 and 64) and a Fuji Rabbit scooter from mid sixties. He said that if I get them running for him to sell, he'd give me one of the Dreams as payment. ALL were running twenty years ago when his father passed away. Should be a breeze to clean carbs, tanks, etc. All I have been find is that the Dreams were 250cc early on, and 305cc for later models. I am confused because the emblem on the tank says 160 on one, 150 on one, and the third has just the Honda insignia on the tank. Anyone able to help me decipher what these are? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New 4 stroke engine</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renew4strokeengine_t2891.html#2891</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Another animation:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tz2rQvCxp44 



Having digested the content of the thread i conclude that the answer could be one of these !!

However weight may be an issue and mostly certainly there would need to to be some boot modifications!




 
 







double bottom fo foam 



large swimmer:


Regards Andrew :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Stop light doesn&apos;t work</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restoplightdoesntwor_t2881.html#2881</link>
	<description><![CDATA[A coincidence indeed. I'm glad you worked it out in the end  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Stop light doesn&apos;t work</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restoplightdoesntwor_t2871.html#2871</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It was the stop switch. I replaced it and the break light works fine. The old one must have been on it's last leg by coincidence.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 68/69 CB 350 carb specs?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re6869cb350carbspecs_t2861.html#2861</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Got it to work. I replaced the stop switch and it's working fine. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 68/69 CB 350 carb specs?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re6869cb350carbspecs_t2851.html#2851</link>
	<description><![CDATA[@shadow: thanks for sharing that PDF  :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How much should i pay for a 1973 CB350G</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowmuchshouldipayf_t2841.html#2841</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Depending on condition, I pick them up for $ 150 - 500 USD.
It's not like it's a rare bike.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73&apos; cb350G timing problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73cb350gtimingprob_t2831.html#2831</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If it came off the bike it should fit back in.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: What size Mikuni s?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewhatsizemikunis_t2821.html#2821</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The 32mm work the best.
Jetting is something you have to work on to fit your application that you want it to do.  (street/race)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1971 CB 350 Starter clutch bad?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1971cb350startercl_t2811.html#2811</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If your motor doesn't turn over by kick-start, you might have to tear it down.  (seizure)
If it turns over with kick-starter, then take the starter off and left-side cover.  Might be missing engagement gears.
Do you have a manual?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CL350 K4 riding problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350k4ridingprobl_t2801.html#2801</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check your chain alignment and your motor mounts.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 68/69 CB 350 carb specs?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re6869cb350carbspecs_t2791.html#2791</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Here is a link for you that will help you.
Enjoy the freebe.   :wink: 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>color codes?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/colorcodes_t2781.html#2781</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I did a search and did not find any of the color codes? does anyone have the correct code for a 1968 CB350 blue? in PPG or ? thanks Biz]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>68/69 CB 350 carb specs?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/6869cb350carbspecs_t2771.html#2771</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm finally working on my wife's CB 350. The guy that "tuned" it before did an Ok job but it still ran bad. The first thing I did was replace the diaphragms. When i did this I noticed that there were two different needles in the slides. I had another slide lying around so i put in the needle that slide. now both slides have a #24330 needle in them. the slide that the needle came out of was 2mm shorter than the other two. I'm going to try and run the #24330 needle and a slide that looks like it is 46mm long. How does this sound? i could also use some help on the screw turn setting on all the carb adjustments. The original set-up with the shorter needle was just letting in way too much fuel and I want to cure that. Thanks for any help you can give in advance.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB92, Benly Super Sport</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/recb92 benlysuperspo_t2761.html#2761</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
 Some unscrupulous restorers 'chop' the old C92 frame into the shape of a CB92 and then make much more money for their efforts. C92 restored worth maybe �2000.00, CB92 restored worth maybe �6000.00.
                 It is possible you have such a chassis? If this is the case, and you wish to achieve the top value then buying a bare CB92 chassis might be the answer, a lot of work though!

                             James]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: painting of chassis for honda cb 750 k7</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/repaintingofchassisf_t2751.html#2751</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Frame was originally painted, but most people including me, powder coat for durability, especially avoiding chips when replacing the engine into the chassis!.

                      James











]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New/old rider CB350 K3</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renewoldridercb350k3_t2741.html#2741</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,
 Nice bike and the problems are relatively easy to address. New bushes for the swing arm pivot, and the carburettors require stripping and cleaning, and if possible fit a keyster overhaul kit to replace all the worn jets. You can probabaly find all these parts on the CMS web site.

                        best of luck

                          James

                         ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 76 CB500T carbs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re76cb500tcarbs_t2731.html#2731</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
If you have the old carburettors you can have them refurbished to as new condition by JRS Carbs
51 Lundy Drive
West Cross
Swansea
SA3 5QL
UK]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hello all.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/helloall_t2721.html#2721</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey all,
     
     In two days my fiance's bike and mine will be picked up for shipment to California  where we will meet them the beginning of july.  This is our honeymoon.  We plan to ride them back to Chicago,  I on my 1973 CB350G.
     I took up riding again the last couple years after a 10 year hiatus after owning a 1979 Yamaha XS750 triple.  I now have the 350 and I am working on restoring a KZ650.
     This will be my first long trip like this so any advice, suggestions, wtf are you doings? would be well received.

     Who has done this already?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Stop light doesn&apos;t work</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/stoplightdoesntwork_t2711.html#2711</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Everyone - I have a 1971 CB 350 K3. I had the stop light working recently and don't know why it's now inoperable. I checked the bulb and the filaments are not broken. The turn signals work and the taillight illuninates but the stop light won't light up when I push the brake pedal down. I checked the green/yellow wire connections both at the taillight assembly and from the rear brake stop switch to the wire harness and they seem fine.  I even ran a test wire from the taillight to the harness just to make sure the original green/yellow wire wasn't shorting out. The black wire from the stop switch to the harness also looks good and has a tight connection.

It seems that the taillight is too bright. It looks more like the brightness of the stop light. Could it be that the stop light switch went bad and is hanging up causing the taillight to illuminate so brightly? It looks to be the original stop switch. These obviously get a lot of use. The bike has 26K on it.

Also,under the gas tank on the left side, there is unmated green wire with female connector coming out the same subharness as the black/white(coil), light green (horn), grey (flasher relay) and black (flasher relay/horn) all of which are properly mated. There is no other wire in that area that would seem to connect to that green one. Does anyone know what this is for? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350F1 Cam tensioner</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/recb350f1camtensione_t2701.html#2701</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
 If the cam cahin tensioner is worn or damaged then adjustment is difficult to impossible. Phil Denton Engineering Ltd have re-manufactured new assemblies out of billet aluminium and they work superbly. Check out their web site?

                                James]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1971 Honda CB500</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re1971hondacb500_t2691.html#2691</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
  You have the early CB500 and it would be much better if you restored the machine to original condition, both for its future value as well as the fact that the standard machine looked superb. Most parts are available at CMS.

                                James
PS post an image so we can see it?
        

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New member with CD 175A incline twin</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renewmemberwithcd175_t2681.html#2681</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi 
  I recently restored a CB125SS in the exact colour you describe. Ask Phil Denton Engineering Ltd, they had the paintwork done. They have a web site for contact details and with an image of the CB 125 as well.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1967 CL125 Japanese domestic model</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re1967cl125japanesed_t2671.html#2671</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
 You have the very rare and desirable CL125, the first of its type sharing many of its parts with the Cl60. If you post an image I will tell you exactly where you need to look to get parts etc.
 The tubular framed version is really very unusual and if restored correctly would be worth a tidy sum.

                                James]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: No power</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renopower_t2661.html#2661</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
 Check out the regulator /rectifier, sounds like it has failed.

                         James]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: My 1974 Honda 400 Four</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/remy1974honda400four_t2651.html#2651</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi 
 You could always try Ebay, I have achieved very high prices for the classic Honda machines I have sold through Ebay.

                                James]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1975 Honda CB 400 F   no spark issue</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re1975hondacb400fnos_t2641.html#2641</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
 Coils are the prime reason for a lack of spark, assuming everything else is in order. They are the first items I would renew on any classic Honda when overhauling the ignition system. 
                           best of luck
                                James]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New Here 68 CL 350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renewhere68cl350_t2631.html#2631</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
 Where the parts are no longer available from CMS, try joining the VJMC both in the USA and in the UK. There are a wealth of used parts advertised in the club magazines.

                        James]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;71 CB250 &amp; &apos;72 CL450</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re71cb25072cl450_t2621.html#2621</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
 This is a difficult job and requires patience - First of all you need to warm the chrome shrouds, then when warm(Hot actually!) drip down penetrating oil, and walk away for a couple of days. Leave the legs up right to allow the oil to penetrate. You may need to repeat this twisting in the correct direction at the same time.
  I used a modified die wrench to remove the ones on mine as well.
Hope that helps!........James]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: hello friends!/75 cb500t</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehellofriends75cb50_t2611.html#2611</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
 The CB500T is a great entry level classic Honda. It can never be worth the same as an early CB450 KO or K1, but it goes and handles generally better than the 450 and has a  'Seventies' classic appeal, and with a disc brake is safer to ride in modern traffic. Investment would drive you to a CB450, if you wish to ride then a CB500T would be better.

                            James]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cd175 engine covers</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/recd175enginecovers_t2601.html#2601</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
 Vapour blasting and high quality professional painting. Try Phil Denton Engineering they can carry out the complete job, and they look better than new when finished.
   james]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Hello There</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehellothere_t2591.html#2591</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi James!

Welcome aboard  :lol: 
You can introduce yourself by telling about your machine(s).

Cheers]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: leaky carbs on a 1977 Honda 400 4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/releakycarbsona1977h_t2581.html#2581</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Have you tried Dave Silver Spares?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Non Starting CB 400/4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/nonstartingcb4004_t2571.html#2571</link>
	<description><![CDATA[CB 400/4 won't start. Hasn't been used for 6 years. I've had a go at restoring it. Carbs ultrasonically cleaned, new plugs. Have spark and fuel seems to be getting through but bike wont even run rough...help please!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hello There</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hellothere_t2561.html#2561</link>
	<description><![CDATA[New to the forum, name is James just wanted to say hello !]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>leaky carbs on a 1977 Honda 400 4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/leakycarbsona1977hon_t2551.html#2551</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello All

I've a 1977 Honda 400 4.  It's been garaged for years.  I managed to start it leaked petrol out the carb overflow.  Checked everything and it seems to be the carb float valve o ring seals are the culprit.
The whole kit is available but I just need the o ring seals.
I've wandered about into shops and workshops in my local area but no luck.
Antone know where I can get o seals from?

Many Thanks

vivvov
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda 400 Four For Sale</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/honda400fourforsale_t2541.html#2541</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Selling my beloved 400 Four. Please check out the advert starting on ?1 (No Reserve
Good Luck
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Solenoid and Starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/solenoidandstarter_t2531.html#2531</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ubject: Solenoid and Starter Stuck - 1972 Honda CL350

im 22 from boston. new to the forum. new to bikes.

Been fixated on vintage bikes and old cafe racers for the last few years. finally had a little extra cash and bought a 1972 honda cl350 k4 scrambler for $500 at the end of last summer. Thought it was beautiful. Ran for a month and then died. thought the engine was siezed. pulled it out last week and the engine kicked over so I regained hope and decided it might be worth my time to start working on it.

I'm not only new to bikes, im completely new to engines in general. I look forward to working through the whole thing, step by step, to get a grasp on the invaluable knowledge of understanding an engine system.


put in a new battery- had a good spark so i filled it up and thought id give it a whirl.


i hit my starter it would stop cranking. javascript:emoticon('');

i had previously read that if such a thing happens the starter will wear itself out and the battery will boil which would lead to two expensive replacements. i quickly unscrewed the battery in hopes to save it as well as the starter. i dont know if i saved it or potentially caused more damage. 


please let me know if any of you guys have any feedback on this problem. In addition, I'm hoping to find someone who might be willing to help me as more problems arise.
   ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replace the air cleaner bar</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacetheairclean_t2521.html#2521</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My email is dmoore2222@ymail.com. Email me and I'll send the pics.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New forum user</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renewforumuser_t2511.html#2511</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Ronald,

That's one impressive list  :wink:   :!: 

Hopefully you'll find a buyer for the bikes you want to sell and get the requested ones as well !

Good luck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>New forum user</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newforumuser_t2501.html#2501</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone!

I'm Ronald van Vlierberghe and live in the Netherlands and I'm a very big Honda fan!!

My Honda career started in 1996, Than I got 16 and I drived a 1974 Honda Amigo That I restored by my self and it was my first restauration..

At the moment I have several Honda's:

- 1999 Honda Civic Aerodeck 1.8VTI MC2
- 1981 Honda CB900FB Bol D'or
- 1977 Honda XL50
- 1974 Honda PF50 Amigo (still the same!)
- 1969 Honda PC50L (original Dutch model)
- 1967 Honda P50 General Export
- 1966 Honda C310S 

In the past I had more Honda's and these are sold (not enough space at home)

- 2000 Honda VTR1000F
- 1999 Honda Accord 2.0IS VTEC
- 1996 Honda Civic 1.5DXI Coupe (still in the family,my sister drives it) 
- 1976 Honda CB500T
- 1975 Honda novio (and about 12 donor PF50's in total)
- 1972 Honda PC50K (for parts)
- 1970 Honda PC50K 
- 1962 Honda C77 

That would be it but, also my sister is a Honda fan! 
She have's 2 Honda CBX550F's, Honda CBX550F2, Honda XL50, Honda C310A and the Civic Coupe

U see I need a little bit of space at home!

And there is a wishlist to!

-Honda N600 or fist Civic ( for my wife
-Honda VF1000R (of the first sery)

But that for the future!

Best Regards to anyone!

Ronald

ps: Please look at my topic  installation leaflet for winkerset Honda P50 General export, thanks.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda p50 winkers instalation leaflet</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newforumrequests_f11/hondap50winkersinsta_t2491.html#2491</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone!

I'm looking for an installation leaflet to instal winkers on a Honda P50 General export.
This leaflet was included in the original optional winkerset that you could buy in the late 60ties early 70ties for this moped.

Who can tell me where I can find it or is there anyone who have's such a leaflet for sale?

I'm also happy with a colour copy or scan!

Thank's in advance!

Best regards, Ronald]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replace the air cleaner bar</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacetheairclean_t2481.html#2481</link>
	<description><![CDATA[would love to see the pics.... I have to replace that soon..]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rear Brake Adjustment Problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerearbrakeadjustmen_t2471.html#2471</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Augusto -  It was indeed the shoes. They worn down to practically nothing. I replaced them and they work fine. Thanks for your response.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rear Brake Adjustment Problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerearbrakeadjustmen_t2461.html#2461</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, did you verify the status of the brake shoes??  I believe they are gone and you cant use the brake with pedal anymore.  Otherwise check the status of the brake arm that may slip on the main rod under use.  Let me know. Augusto. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CL350 K4 riding problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cl350k4ridingproblem_t2451.html#2451</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello , I need help to understand if mine is a common problem to all 350 and mainly the scrambler version or if I have a serious problem with the frame\front suspension.  My bike , purchesed in November, doesen't go straight, The problem is quite evident at low speed.  If I seat 5 cm on the right side of the seat and not just in the middle , the bike goes straight with no hands on the handlebar.  The bike has only 5500 miles and runs greatly.  No signs of an accident or fall.  Thanks to whoever can help me understand.  :( ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: brake discs for honda cb1100r 1982?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/buyersguide_f9/rebrakediscsforhonda_t2441.html#2441</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have some...

Jan]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Rear Brake Adjustment Problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rearbrakeadjustmentp_t2431.html#2431</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I can?t get the adjustment right for the rear brake.  The brake bites when I push the brake arm forward with the rod and spring off. So I know it bites.But it has to be pushed really far forward before it bites, certainly a lot farther than the normal assembly would take it. When I hook the rod and spring up, no matter how I position the brake arm or tighten the adjuster nut, I can?t get the brake to bite. What am I missing? Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replace the air cleaner bar</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacetheairclean_t2421.html#2421</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Number 2 in the procedure should say 1 and a half inch long. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Replace the air cleaner bar</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/replacetheaircleaner_t2411.html#2411</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Honda CB 350 -  Replacement of the Air Cleaner Bar

Some of you may have already figured this out but for those that haven't, here's what I've come up with after knocking myself trying to install the side covers on my CB 350.

Instead of trying to slip the stock bar through two air filter elements, cases and side covers, try attaching side cover mounting bolts to the air filter elements. 
 
Procedure:
1.At the work bench, fit the air filter case to the air filter element. The case should snap-fit tightly to the element if aligned properly.
2.Run a 1 �? long 6mm 1.00 bolt through the large hole at the back of the filter element and through the attached case. You?ll need a needle nose pliers to guide the bolt through the holes. 
3.Fasten a nut to the bolt to keep the case tight against the filter element.  You now have a mounting bolt for side cover attachment.
4.Bolt the filter element (now with attached case) to the frame as you normally do. 
5.Fit the side cover over the case and the bolt will slip through the side cover grommet.
6.Thread the finish nut onto the new mounting bolt.
See parts drawing below

I have a PDF with pics that I'd be glad to send if you reply with you e-mail address.

 




]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 CB350 not charging</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1973cb350notcharging_t2401.html#2401</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am bringing a 1973 CB350K4 out of the cobbwebs. It's not charging and the stator and rotor are rusty. What should I clean them with? I'm thinking not wire brush, but not sure. Is this a possible problem or am I barking up the wrong tree? I have owned the bike since 1973 and it was charging when I stopped riding in 1991. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Kevin ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 FOUR tank to CB400 FOUR will it fit?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/cb350fourtanktocb400_t2391.html#2391</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all, 

I have question for more experienced users. 
I am owner of CB 400 four from 1977 and my tank is in bad shape. I have possibility to get tank and side panels from cb 350 four 1974. 
Question is will it fit?
I know that the best would be to get tank from cb400 but currently I cannot afford it and I would like to use CB 350.
What do You think.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/wiring_t2381.html#2381</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi ,

I have just opened the headlight cover of my 78 cb250t to find a real mess of wires and connectors. 
Do I need all this ? Is there a way of simplifying the wiring?
If anyone has done this and can offer some advice would be great
Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 Honda CB 350 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969hondacb350_t2371.html#2371</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Not sure how far you have got, can you start the bike?

Regarding the coils, first thing to check is do you get a spark at the plugs - with them removed from the cylinder head but held against the engine to earth? May be difficulty if you can use the kick or electric starter, so you need to get one or other sorted first.

I had a coil problem for a very long time. I eventually decided to swap the HT leads between cylinders (you also need to swap the leads that control when each coil fires). In doing so the lead on one side cracked. If it was not the problem before it was now. So I replaced both coils (hard to find, but CB500 twin ones worked). 

I now ride the bike most days :)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Oil Pump Screen Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350oilpumpscreen_t2361.html#2361</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Sorry to respond so late. I got away from the build for a while. Yes. It is a twin.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB750 Electronic Ignition available</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/cb750electronicignit_t2351.html#2351</link>
	<description><![CDATA[PAMCO has recently introduced a new ignition system for the SOHC CB750, 500 and 550.

www.cb750ignition.com]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB450 ignition</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/buyersguide_f9/recb450ignition_t2341.html#2341</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This is an old post, but if the question were asked today, the answer would be:


www.cb450ignition.com
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;71 CB250 &amp; &apos;72 CL450</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/71cb25072cl450_t2331.html#2331</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Good morning, have just found this site.

I have a '71 CB250 & '72 CL450 that both need restoring.

I have started first on the 250 and mostly going well. A few hiccups but nothing too much.

Only thing I find really frustrating is trying to work out how to remove the (metal?)dust covers on top of the lower fork legs (so I can get to and remove the fork seals.

Any help would be appreciated on this. (should have taken photos).]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>65 ct200 leaking carb</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/65ct200leakingcarb_t2321.html#2321</link>
	<description><![CDATA[any ideas how to get the carb fuel inlet valve to stop leaking? i have taken apart many times with no success. can't find new gaskets either.rubber looks good.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 Honda CB 350 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1969hondacb350_t2311.html#2311</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just had one given to me. It's my first bike and I know balls about motorcycles.

I'm learning as much as I can from the friends I can beg to help me out on weekends.

Anyone have any advice?

I know that it has a bad oil leak.

How can I test the coils to see if they work?

The kick start rarely catches, so I'm gonna focus on getting the elect start going first.

Where is a good place to get hooked up with parts? Its definitely missing the back blinkers, and will need new mufflers eventually.

Also need mirrors

I wanna get it running beautifully then worry about aesthetics.

Thanks for any help or advice you can give on getting my Murdercycle running! :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>New Here 68 CL 350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newhere68cl350_t2301.html#2301</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Love the site. I'm helping an uncle out with his 68 CL. He hasnt been on a bike in years and found the old beast and had some work done to it to get it running. The thing is rough though, needs new levers. Cables are a hard pull, not sure if they just need a lube or new stuff. Needs a new headlight bezel I guess is what you call it. 

Is there any good resources for used but nice stuff for these bikes? Once again, thanks for any help. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>9th-10th of october. &quot;Historic Gran Prix&quot; </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/events_f6/9th-10thofoctoberhis_t2291.html#2291</link>
	<description><![CDATA[On october 8th-9th Boldorbikers will be presente at "Historic Gran Prix Luigi Musso" that will take place at Imola's circuit (BO-Italy).
All Bol d'Or owners are invited .

For information contact info@boldorbikers.it
or visit www.historicgranprix.it
and www.boldorbikers.it]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>24th-26th of June. II National Meeting of Honda Bol d&apos;Or</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/events_f6/24th-26thofjuneiinat_t2281.html#2281</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The "II National Meeting Honda Bol d'Or" will take place in Viareggio (Lu-Italy) from 24th to 26th of June.
All Bol d'Or owners are invited.

For information contact info@boldorbikers.it
or visit www.boldorbikers.it]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;78 CB750K Starting Issues</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/re78cb750kstartingis_t2271.html#2271</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Peter-
I have not checked this forum in a couple of months, so just found your post.
I have recently sussed out starting problem on my CB400F, but first need some direction on your bike:

Have you replaced the battery?
Measured voltage drop in wiring harness?
Are the timing and electrics up to par?
Have you synchronized the carbs? 
Are the valves set at proper adjustment?
What is the condition of the cam chain?
How well does it start once warmed up?

Each issue leads you down a different path. My bike had 3 of these plus old gas deposits in the needle jet, float levels way off and choke linkage not synched.

The cam chain may not really apply IF the motor runs strong once warmed up. These motors even when new are very "cold-blooded" meaning they need a long time to get to optimum temp.

Hope this helps.

John M.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>84 VT250 advice please</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/84vt250adviceplease_t2261.html#2261</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I need advice on where I could purchase parts, namely an exhaust system for an 84 VT250.  Do you have any suggestions for me?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Ignitoin problems with martek 440 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/reignitoinproblemswi_t2251.html#2251</link>
	<description><![CDATA[problem is fixed, Found the original ignition system in a box]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>parts interchange</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/partsinterchange_t2241.html#2241</link>
	<description><![CDATA[will body parts from a 80 cb900 or cb900f work on a 80 cb900c?
I want to put the rear fender and side panels maybe seat if needed from the cb900 or cb900f on my cb900c. :?: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda Dream 305</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/hondadream305_t2231.html#2231</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm new to riding and am looking for my first bike. I am a fan of classic hondas.  I have found a 1963 305 Dream that I am interested in but am worried about one thing. I have read many different discussion boards on rider weight vs. engine size but all seem to just be opinion based.  The simple question is, I am a 5'7 300 pound dude looking to get a small enough bike to learn on but big enough to pull me around.  I will be doing only city street riding, around town.  Will the 305 do the trick for me? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Ignitoin problems with martek 440 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ignitoinproblemswith_t2221.html#2221</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello guys! I have a Honda cb 750 frome america 1971 modell. On it the old owner installed a martek 440 starter system. I also have the original parts in a box. My problem is that I have no sparks in any of my plugs. I am not an elctric wonder guy so the onley thing I know is that I have pluss and minus 12,8 volts to the ignition coile but no power to the spark plugs. So I have to decide if I totaly go back to the original kick starter syteme or if I go with a mix having martek 440 starter motor and honda ignition coile. I read that the martek has more power to the spark plugs so does this mean I have more power to the coils??? If I have maybe I kill the honda ignition coils and also I guess they have to be adjusted some how maybe the martek starter will not do????? Can someone see my problem and tell me wath they would do with the parts I have??  I don`t have the money at the moment to buy a new systeme and I have to go with what I have. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>xbr 500 wheels </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newforumrequests_f11/xbr500wheels_t2211.html#2211</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi there every one i have a xbr 500 honda and want to change the standard comstar wheels for spoked items  just wondered if any would fit from another model. a cb 250 rs for example any help would be verry helpfull thanks  stuart :roll: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1975 Honda CB 400 F   no spark issue</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1975hondacb400fnospa_t2201.html#2201</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi
just joined the forum.
just bought a CB400F  from an estate sale.
no spark
points are ok and opening and closing.
2 questions...........


1.  what is the point gap

2.  are the coils the usual problem for a * no start*  condition.

thanks
leo]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>hey there!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/heythere_t2191.html#2191</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just stopping by to say hi! Little info on my bike. Last spring my boyfriend bought me a 72 cl350 for $100 we weren't sure if it would even run but after a summer of blood sweat and tears we had her ready to go. We completely tore down the engine, not that it was difficult seemed to be missing half the nuts and bolts. Got the 3/4 inch layer of paint off the tank and side covers, no joke looked like some one upended a can of horrid greenish blue paint and smeared it around a bit. Now after a whole winter of waiting  she's all pretty purple and ready for the road. I'm hoping to get my license by summer time and hit the road. But until then I'm stuck cruising around my driveway and 3mph. I'm not very good and the techie stuff but I was there through the whole rebuild and know my bike literally inside out.
Well hoping to get to know everyone and see u around the forum.
Betty ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: New to the Forum</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renewtotheforum_t2181.html#2181</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Here is a pic of it.
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>New to the Forum</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newtotheforum_t2171.html#2171</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey everybody. So I just got my first old Honda this past weekend. It is a 1972 CB350 that is all original and in awesome condition. I totally got it for a steal. Can't wait to start working on it and making it perfect. Talk to y'all soon.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>&apos;78 CB750K Starting Issues</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/78cb750kstartingissu_t2161.html#2161</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I purchased a 78 CB750, and it runs nearly perfectly, but I have tons of trouble starting.g it when its cold. I can take up to 30 mins, and a set of jumper cables. I'm pretty sure I've finally got the idle at a good point, but I could really use some advice.  :roll:  :roll: ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Honda cb 350 starting problem. Help pls!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondacb350starting_t2152.html#2152</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You need to adjust the timing.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Specifications</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/respecifications_t2151.html#2151</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It would depend on your fueltank.
There were 3 different shapes and range from 3.5 to 4.2 gallons.
Octane requirement is 87.
The 350 twin is a sipper, if the carbs are adjusted right, you should get a minimum of 40-50 mpg.
Another tip,... change oil every 3000 mi because she doesn't have a filter, just a screen.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: 69&apos; CL350 shifting problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re69cl350shiftingpro_t2150.html#2150</link>
	<description><![CDATA[First,... you don't have to be a mechanic to work on this bike.
You do need the works service manual.
The shiftforks are probably bent.
Seeing that you have to crack the case open, you might as well do a complete rebuild.
You will know the bike inside out after that and can diagnose anything that could go wrong.
These bikes are very rugged if taken care of properly.
As of parts,... you're good with CL/CB 350 '68 thru '74.
SL has some differences, but is very similar as well.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: The bike pops out of first gear. I got to take out the motor and split the case to fix?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethebikepopsoutoffi_t2149.html#2149</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This is a full transmission rebuild.
So be prepared to invest some time into this project.
Bearings, Shiftdrum, shiftforks, seals, clean, inspect and measure everything, I mean everything.
It's not a job to be afraid of, just need to be patient.
And honestly,... seeing that you have to break it down, might as well do a complete rebuild from the ground up.
It will save you from future problems.
So invest in some good micrometers, venier calipers etc.
And don't forget to get a works service manual.
After you're done, you'll know that bike inside out.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Best manual for rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebestmanualforrebui_t2148.html#2148</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Nothing beats the works service manual]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Honda cl350 starting problems.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondacl350starting_t2147.html#2147</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check your wiring.  There has to be a loose wire.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: 1973 CL 350 Scrambler Questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1973cl350scrambler_t2146.html#2146</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Rule #1 for any Motorcycle owner.
Service Manual.
Makes life so much easier.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Mods... New jet size?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350modsnewjetsiz_t2145.html#2145</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What is your Carb size?]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Melted wire</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remeltedwire_t2144.html#2144</link>
	<description><![CDATA[That thick black wire is for the starter.  You should replace it.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Dies with while after shifting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/redieswithwhileafter_t2143.html#2143</link>
	<description><![CDATA[NO, that is not normal.  Almost sounds like a clutch problem.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: The bike pops out of first gear. I got to take out the motor and split the case to fix?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethebikepopsoutoffi_t2142.html#2142</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi!
I am dealing with the same problem with a CB 360 that a friend of mine brought to me as it's popping out from first gear. I removed the lower crankcase and I saw immediately that at both shafts the pins are not standing out at all  from the case. First I thought that they are probably not the correct size but after I was unable to remove them,I soon came to the figure that they were the right size but the bearings were not installed correctly as they pushed them in by force so are probably stuck tight.( If it's possible) So that comes to the question: How did You get them out?
- They are too hard to drill.
- Welding something to it is too risky and dangerous.
- Put another pin somewhere else?

thanks
Janos 
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Dies with while after shifting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/dieswithwhileaftersh_t2141.html#2141</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey!

This is my first motorcycle, a 72 CB350. 
It starts, runs and idles fine on the center stand, but it feels like its not working properly when i actually ride it.  
As soon as i shift into first, the bike will die unless i give it some gas or hold in the clutch.  
The bike will also die if i use the rear brake.  I can only use the rear brake if i hold in the clutch.

Is this how the bike should work?
What should i do?

Thanks in advance!]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>honda 1983 cb125rs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/honda1983cb125rs_t2140.html#2140</link>
	<description><![CDATA[looking for a center stand as the one on the bike i have bought has been cut of can any one help]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>CB125j (UK) Technical Advice</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/cb125juktechnicaladv_t2139.html#2139</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, I've recently purchased a 1976 CB125.  It was running fine but I've now hit problems.  It started cutting out and misfiring and then wouldn't start at all.  There is a spark but the spark plug looks wet and oily, or sometimes black and sooty. When I changed the spark plug it started first time and ran for a few hundred yards before repeating the same problem.  According to the manual, the state of the spark plug suggests that it's an ignition problem.  I don't think its a blockage in the fuel pipe or carb because it starts first time with a new spark plug.  Can anyone offer some advice on what I can try to sort this out?  Many thanks.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: high revving in neutral and when stopped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehighrevvinginneutr_t2138.html#2138</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check your throttle cable. Sometimes the two cables coming out of the splitter section get pulled out of the black plastic case that houses the one into two cable section. They get stuck and hold the throttle open. If that's ok, make sure there is slack at the adjustments on the handlebar section of the throttle, and the two adjusters on the carbs. If they are too tight, the engine will rev. It is not common on these bikes, if you know what you're doing. Watch the throttle shafts on the carbs as you open then close the throttle to see if the shafts close all the way. Also, make sure they open simultaneously. Hope this helps. Bad diaphragms won't cause this problem.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>1978 Honda CB750 SS 9K miles</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1978hondacb750ss9kmi_t2137.html#2137</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1978 Black Honda CB750 Super Sport with only 9K original miles.  The bike is all original.  I bought this years ago, but have only rode it about 3 times.  It sits in my dusty garage.  I put a new battery in it about 3 months ago and it fired right up.  I know it is a great old bike, but have no idea what to ask for it.  It has the blacked out motor (stock), and I would say it is in about 85% of original condition.  No damage, just some fading on the paint.  I am located in Central Illinois if anyone is interested in making an offer.  Pictures available.  email dckinsella@yahoo.com

Thanks.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: leaf springs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/releafsprings_t2136.html#2136</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Gerald,

I see that you also tried 
Any luck there ?]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>leaf springs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/leafsprings_t2135.html#2135</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Can anyone help me in locating 4 leaf springs for a 1972 CB500/Four, Honda do not make the part anymore and all the main places do not have any stock left.

Only one is broken but better to have some spares.

The offical part number is 16061-323-004.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>CB450P black bomber Police Bike Siren for sale, CB450 K0</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/cb450pblackbomberpol_t2134.html#2134</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just posting to let enthusiasts know I have a CP-450 (K0 CB450 BlackBomber) Tokyo Siren Co. Ltd. Police Bike Siren and related hardware that needs to go to another enthusiast.  I'll list it on egay Feb. 25th so you'll find it there if interested.  Jim 206 725-2355 jamesweyand()h0tmail]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t2133.html#2133</link>
	<description><![CDATA[try cyclepartsnation.com they have alot of NOS parts, their parts prices aren't bad but the shipping costs are very high. but when you gotta have ya gotta have it!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: high revving in neutral and when stopped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehighrevvinginneutr_t2132.html#2132</link>
	<description><![CDATA[also to mention I have a 72 also. cant seem to remember if i had the high reving problem with that one but i had problems! pulled and cleaned jets replaced those old O-rings on them still had problems I simply didn't get them clean enough one very small orafice on them stayed plugged, just missed it.. go fugure, made all the differenc once remedied, she runs perfectly now ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: high revving in neutral and when stopped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehighrevvinginneutr_t2131.html#2131</link>
	<description><![CDATA[5000rpm is excessive. your answer from mechanic didn't help, get a new mechanic. or find a service manual for your model. there adjustments that can be made by the turn of a screw. you just need to know which one and how much and when. a service manual will take you through this procedure. if that doesn't help then yes maybe your carbs need rebuilding. there are rubber diaphrams top side of carb, and O rings on the jets that degrade over time. again get a service manual theres much valuable info to be had, and gives a bit more confidence to work on your own bike when you can read and study your task before "goin' in" good luck!]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Oil filter gasket</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350oilfiltergask_t2130.html#2130</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well after some searching, I found some Cb350 oil filter gaskets at:  

http://www.westernhillshondayamaha.com/   

They have a lot of old vintage Honda, and other bikes, hard to find parts.  Hope this helps someone else.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Honda c110 ignition</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondac110ignition_t2129.html#2129</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The early C110's had in fact a different ignition system, from what I understand.  They were also 3-speed transmission instead of 4-speed.  I've got one early and four later model C110's in various status of condition.  Here is what I know.  The early versions did not have the added chrome side tank panel.  Tanks were painted Ivory with matching side covers (filter and battery; plastic badge screwed directly to the tank, not the tank cover.   Ignitions were different, I know little to date.  Early frames were 218191 or lower; later frames were 218192 or higher.  Motor ID's did not match or come even close.  I bought my Early out of California.  Frame 197,192  Engine 14676.  Yes, that far off.  I know of another Calf. bike Frame 200815 - Motor 18790.   A Utah bike I'm looking at is Frame 171,455 with a 12607 motor.  Now really uncanny - the back bone of the frame is in two pieces on the early bikes.  Take the tank off and look.  Strangest thing I've ever seen.  

I would appreciate if you would send me as many pictures as possible and your frame and motor numbers and any history you have.  Robert in Atlanta  CB92ROB@gmail.com]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>high revving in neutral and when stopped</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/highrevvinginneutral_t2128.html#2128</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Howdy.
Have a 72 cb350.
Just got back from my mechanic.
Am noticing now, that after about three minutes of riding, once I and up at a red light or somewhere Im stopped and in first, the engine revvs to about 5000 rpms uncontrollably. As well as in neutral. But not while riding. Only when stopped.
Asked my mechanic about it, said was common with old 350s. Something about old boots, creating a vacuum, sucking in a lot of air.

Please advise.
Would like to fix this asap.
Thanks!
-Brian]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>CB350 Oil filter gasket</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350oilfiltergasket_t2127.html#2127</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The small and thin little oil filter gasket is hard to find.  They don't come as part of a gasket kit.  Haven't seen any on ebay. I'm at the stage of my rebuild that I need one.  Does anyone know where I can get one?  Or has anyone been sucessful at making their own?  If so, what matial did you use?  Any help here would be greatly appreciated.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>CB 350 FOUR CARBS for Sale</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/cb350fourcarbsforsal_t2126.html#2126</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi @ all, I have a complete Set of 4 carbs for the CB 350 Four. If you need some pictures, give me your e-mail, I'll send some.

Greatings

George (Belgium)

E-Mail: fa112478@skynet.be]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: CB350F help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb350fhelp_t2125.html#2125</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, I have a complete set of 4 carbs (Keihin) for the CB 350 four. If you give me you'r E-Mail-Adress, I'll send you some pictures.

Greatings

George

fa112478@skynet.be]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Melted wire</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/meltedwire_t2124.html#2124</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey, i just bought a 1972 CB350 yesterday.  I started it up this morning and noticed black tar underneath the engine.  It turns out that a thick black wire has partially melted and there seems to be some metal exposed.
Is this a big deal?  what should i do?
Thanks!
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2123.html#2123</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Still waiting on my springs to arrive.......

Had to order 2 more.

Thanks to Royal Mail & An Post for losing the first ones.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Honda c110 ignition</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondac110ignition_t2122.html#2122</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a very early 1960 Honda c110 and the ignition is very different than the other c110 ignitions. The spark plug wire comes out of the coil in the magneto and not from a coil in the frame like other bikes, any help identifying what I have will be a help... Also the gas tank is all paint and no chrome like the other bikes. I can send pics if needed.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: soon to be new honda owner - have some questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resoontobenewhondaow_t2121.html#2121</link>
	<description><![CDATA[    Totally agree with Chuck, and if this is going to be your main rider, try to find the most original, lowest miles one that you can find.
The least amount of hands it's been through, the better. My last one was a '72 CB350 in this kind of condition-----after freshing up the usual goodies---cables, hoses & such----ran like a watch. Good luck.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2120.html#2120</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Janos,

In response to your query on jets. I am working on my right carb in preparation for the springs to arrive so I have had a chance to inspect.

The Main Primary Jet (MPJ) is #72
The Main Secondary jest (MSJ) is #105
The Idle Jet is #35

I was surprised at the size of the Main Primary Jet as the Honda Shop manual from Sep 1969 specifies (for the 250A carb) MPJ #55 & MSJ #110.
The 350A from the same manual is #60 & #115. However these are for the K0 and things would seem to have changed for the later carbs / K #. 

I have another "Shop Manual" presumably by Honda as it has Honda on the back. It’s undated but appears to be from the end of the series covering the CB250-350, CL250 350 and the SL350 as it mentions specs from K0 to K4 / K5 for the 350. What is bizarre though is it fails to specify the jet sizes for the 250 but does give some of the 350s!! Strange. 

The Haynes Manual from 1974 specifies 55/110/35 for the 250 and 60/115/38 for the 350 but fails to specify for which K or carb although I suspect it’s the 250A as they quote a float height of 21mm and they also match the 1969 manual figures.

This isn’t concrete proof that my jets are wrong or anything but I was initially surprised it was as big as #72. All my jets are marked with the distinctive Keihin fat K so I am happy they are genuine in so far as that goes.

Another manual extract I have but I don’t know from what goes into a lot of detail on 350 jetting but not much for the 250. It gives 68/95/35 for the 250 and 60/115/38 for the 350 but in a general non K or carb specific format.

Later in that manual it does specify 70/110/35 for the 3-B and 3-C carbs
70/105/35 for 3-D, 68/105/35 for the 722A and 726A. Not that tells me much in regard to the 250 but it does show an increased size in the MPJ over the earlier manuals.

Interestingly on this site (CMS) the Main Primary Jet available for my 725A (K4) carb range from a choice of 60,68,70&72 and for the Main Secondary Jet 98,100,105&110. 

For the 2-D (the correct carbs for my K2) its a similar story with MPJ options for 68,70 & 72 plus a 75 for Germany France and Spain. The MSJ options are 98,100,105&110

I suppose technically this does not absolutely prove anything beyond showing a range of jets but does tend to indicate more of flexibility and increase on the MPJ especially compared against the 55 & 110 specified as the default size for the K0 / 250A carb. It does strongly indicate the primary main size was increased for the K2 and K4 at least.

So having studied all this I'm not too perturbed by having #72 #105 on my carb. When and if the spring cures my main issue I will be bringing the bike to friend with an exhaust analyser just for kick to see what the content of the exhaust stream is to indicate good burning or not.

Regards,

Brendan.
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2119.html#2119</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos, I missed your previous post about your trial run on the bike. 
Fantastic!!! you must be over the moon to have a result.

I am looking forward to trying out when my springs arrive.

As for the 350.. I have a pair of 350 carbs somewhere and I was looking for them to day tocheck exactly what you mentioned as I am also curious about the 250 Vs 350 spring length. I could not find then as I moved house and everything is packed in boxes. I will look again over the week and if I find them I will check and get back.

I reckon if they were longer it would be maybe about ~14 mm. This is only a guess and is based on assuming the carb bodies and slides / diaphrams are the same (they sure look the same!) and if so the slide travel would be the same and also the same span of 20 Gr. i.e 250 is 30-50 350 40-60 (both 20 gr span) so that means the spring is the same spring rate so the only difference might be ~14 mm longer adding another 10gr to the preload but giving the same span i.e 20 gr (40-60). Just a guess. Lets see when we measure.



Brendan.


 ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2118.html#2118</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos, Great news. This must be very encourageing for you.

My springs have not arrived yet. I have not looked at the jet sizes in a long time time but I think they are 55/110.

Yes I agree about the O rings in so far as it is mentioned a lot on the web as being a typical problem.

Brendan. 
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2117.html#2117</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I had a few misfires during acceleretion,but the bike didn't run a several months ago maybe that's causing this.
But overall it is great!
Maybe I just need other jetting size.I am runinng on 105/68 now.
And You?
But remember: sealing the jets properly is still very important!
  
regards 
Janos]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2116.html#2116</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brendan!
You are right the spring force should be linear increasing.
We shared alot of ideas about jets,camshafts,different carb types,air filters,float levels,and many more other things that You and myself tried to set,change, modify or replace parts, struggling to find the cause of why our(and maybe alot of others)  Honda CB250K is suffering from engine stalling and power loss at 5000-6000 midrange revs which drives us crazy. 
We finally came to discussing carb slide springs.
Well Brendan I think it worked for me!!!!!! :D 
Today I had some time to run over the carbs again and changed the springs from my streched ones(about 110 mm!!!) to the shorter 85mm.
I was more motivated by the weather getting pretty warm compared to  January.(12 Celsius!!!) It should be -12 now!!!!!
Took on a test ride......
It warmed up a bit,then twisted the throttle at 2nd....
YES! THAT'S IT! It is running like it should be! :shock: 
The bike ran like crazy man!
I can't even believe it!
What a great bike!
I was never thought that the springs are not the right ones.
Since they were about the same size as the 350,I thought that the short 85mm ones are for some other bike.
Now I'am curious if the 350 springsize is correct or not.
Do you have info of the 350 carb spring length?

I 'm exited to hear if You are having results also.

Janos]]></description>
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	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2115.html#2115</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Janos,

I used an online Spring Rate calculator that gives spring rate in N/M and you just covert that to gramms force /mm. The calculator had the spring steel type figure inbuilt and I don't know what that was so may not be an exact figure but should be close

The other main I/Ps are Wire Diameter, Coil Diameter & No of active coils (normally total -2). While length is in the calculation it makes no difference in theory but obviously between practical limits between the closed compression height ~ 17mm and the length of the wire.
When I fed in 85mm and 170mm I got the same figure for rate. Spring rate is not affected. However the pre-load is affected as I mentioned.

I could not say without proper equipment but in theory the spring rate is linear so no it should not mean more force per unit length but yes the force does increase as you compress but it should be linear @ 1.37 g/mm.

My springs are not here yet I was hoping this week. Its looking more like next week. I'll keep you posted.

Hope all the viewers are enjoying this. Don't be afraid to contribute your little bit now!

Regards Brendan.
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2114.html#2114</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How did You get to the 1.37g/mm spring rate?
Simply dividing the spring force with the length?
Average?
When are You getting Your new springs?
My 250 has streched springs as your bike has but not as long.
 The springs in my 350 are 100mm long so this whole thing makes sense.
This weekend I wil checkout and examine or change the springs on the 250 also.
I can't wait!

Greets
Janos]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2113.html#2113</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brendan!
Sorry, I am posting my reply on the forum instead of in email, but I want to share any ideas so anyone else could get as much info as possible. Especially carbs as a topic thats never inexhaustible.

Brendan YOU are RIGHT!
I am sure that the 30-50 gr is the force of the preloaded and loaded spring.It works!
I've tried a little experimenting with the spring that is abot 85mm long and has 25 coils.
I took the top cap off and the spring out. Then put the  carburetor on the scale. After resetting the scale I then pushed the spring in as much as the preload should be.(I measured about 11mm before)Yes only 11 mm because in case of a 85mm spring,it stands out about 30mm when the cap is off. The cap is 19mm high (inside.This is how I got the 11mm.
It wassn't really exact test but the scale showd about 25g.
This includes the weight of the spring(4-5g)
Then took out the spring a put it on the scale and pushed it to 22mm more,thats 31mm with preload. The result was about 54g.
I repeat this was not an exact test but might have proof on the spring rate that Honda uses, and that You have realized.
This could mean that the spring force is not directly proportional with the spring length,so the more the spring gets pressed together the more force is needed.
]]></description>
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	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2112.html#2112</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Janos, After some deliberation I think I have worked out what the 30-50 Gr signifies. I think is the grammes force the spring exerts between the bottom and top of slide movement. It makes sense.

So when fitting the correct spring the preload on the slide is 30 grammes (I don't know if this includes the natural weight of the spring or not) and when the slide is fully up at full throttle the spring exertion is 50gr. The slide can physically move about 20-22 mm when the top cap is on but I doubt it goes all that way up into the top of the carb. The spring rate is roughly 1.37 g/mm so a 30gr preload equates to about 22mm compression of the spring when fitting. I can check this when I get a correct 85 mm spring.
Using the same figures to get to a 50 Gr load would equate to a 14.6 mm slide travel. Of cousre there is nothing stopping the slide going a little beyind the 50Gr. To get more exacting figures I would need to know exactly what steel and thus modulus of elasticity the spring material has but I bet thats it. Its the best home for the 30-50 gr figure for me.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2111.html#2111</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos I'm not exactly sure what you asked me there but let me reply.

I use the term "rating" loosely when referring to the gr figures I gave for 2 reasons. 

One is that the gr rating still seems to be used on other modern carbs Carb springs if you look up the www. However they are usually given as a single figure e.g. 115 or 95 not as a range like 30-50 (30 "dash" 50) as given in the Haynes manual or 30~50 (30 "Tilde" 50) as given in the Honda manual. This would seem odd to allow a variance of 20 on something only 30 in magnitude. Makes no sense at all!!?? That's assuming of course the 30-50 does indeed signify an allowable range from 30 to 50 whatsits..

Secondly gr, even if it was grammes is meaningless in formal SI units which ought to be in Neuton meters N/M, N/mm or a derivation of same but not just grammes.

I assume in the carburretor world its a well used and understood shorthand unit of measurement relating to carb springs but for the life of me I cant find any solid reference on the web as to what engineering units it can be translated into and what it really means. As you said is it just the weight of the whole assembly or what? 

I doubt that though. I think its some kind of spring rate (strength) related figure. I can't bet the house on this of course and to be honest I'm not going to get too excited about it. I am going to stick in the new springs when they arrive and see how it goes. 

Its like those guys who go fiddling with jets and drilling them out and pissing about with the springs cutting bits off etc. You might as well go whipping youself around the garden if your into that sort of torture]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2110.html#2110</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brendan!
Interesting infos and all about carb springs! Congrats, You really got in to this seriously!
 :D 
You mean weight by rated?
It should be grams but 30-50 is too much for only spring it might be the whole slidewith rubber, needle and spring, but still too big difference between 30 and 50.
I did not look at the 725A carbs on my 250 but on my spare carbs(Y2C)
they weigh 36g each. The 85mm spring is about 4-5 g alone.
I measured it with a digital kitchen scale.
I will keep You (and everyone else on the forum)updated as I have something.
Did You notice that this forum thread has the most replies and it's nearly the most viewed one?
Ill send You my email address.
greets
Janos

 ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>cb 350 k service manuals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350kservicemanuals_t2109.html#2109</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ if anyone needs a service manual in pdf form please contact me here with your e-mail address     micahhulett@yahoo.com


]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2108.html#2108</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos,
I don't know if there is a length difference between the 250 and 350 springs as I don't have any 350 springs. However I am pretty confident there is some difference possibly in spring rate. According to the Honda and the Haynes manual the 250 spring is rated at 30-50g and the 40-60 g (Gr in the Honda manual).

I have not got the bottom of what the "g" / "gr" is (possibly gram) but in any case assuming a greater number means a greater spring rate it would suggest that the 350 had a different / possibly stronger spring. Can anyone advise (please be sure) what gr means exactly.

I got the spring length of 82mm from a CB250 owner with 725-A carbs and 85 mm one from a supplier with a new one on the shelf against the part number for the CB250 K4 carb which is a Keihin 725-A. Hence my figure of 85mm.

For reference my springs are 0.7mmm exactly (micrometer) in wire diameter, about 19-20mm in spring diameter and 25 coils (counting all coils even the non acting ones). While my bike is a K2 it has 725-A carbs (K4). Reminder.. CB250 > 250A, CB250 K2+3 > 2D, CB250 K4 > 725A. 

The part number for the spring which includes the slide and diaphragm is more or less the same across the whole K series with exceptions for the early K0 and some continental K2 (see below)

The part number the K0 appears to have 3 different part numbers over a range of serial numbers so I'm guessing some change took place during this time. 16022286004 up to Serial#: 1004622, 16022286014 From Serial#: 1004623 up to Serial#: 1030170 & 16022286024 From Serial#: 1030171

For the K2, K3, K4 the part # is 16022286024 with a variant part no # 16022287014 for France and Germany. (Source for above is from microfiche online)

I will be interested to hear if you have more information. Regards, Brendan. 

P.S. Please email me at count1@eircom.net with your email address.
 

]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2107.html#2107</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brendan!
You got me interested about spring lengths and effect on performance.
My gosh I never cared about the springs I only checked if they were the same length.
170mm!!! is way too long.
I didn't have time yet to check what does the bike have inside, but I am sure they are all much longer then 85mm. I think they were between 100-110mm.But!
I have a few spare springs in a box and one of these is shorter then the others(some of them are WAY streched). 
Exatly 85mm.....
Then I took the carbs marked as Y2C and measured their springs. Yes 85 also.!
I forgot to mension that I've tried these carbs on but they didn't work out either and were missing choke flaps.
As You mentioned, at high speed it's great but not pleasent.
So You are on a good lead so keep going!
The next thing is for me to check the carbs  springs on the bike.
Altough That they are surely longer then 85mm I don't think they were streched. The 350 has longer springs but I have to checked that also.
Is it possible that 250 and 350 has different carb spring ?
Where did You get the info about the springs?

Sadly, it is impossible for me to test the bike because of the weather around here, but You never can tell what Global Warming brings to winter.
regards

]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Owners Hand Book 77CB400F PDF format where </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/ownershandbook77cb40_t2106.html#2106</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Where can I down load a copie of a owners hand book for a 1977 CB400F Honda? George Colgett Thanks for your time should you answer !]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>My CB 350&apos;s</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/mycb350s_t2105.html#2105</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,
I recently purchased two Honda CB 350's and am trying to figure out the year they were manufactured. (cb350-5049756 and cb350-5046786). The guy I got them from said they were twin Basket Cases? I am just starting to get into Honda's and am not exactly sure what that means. Any suggestions? Will I have a hard time at the DMV?  ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2104.html#2104</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos, I think I am on to something. I finally got about to concentrating on the carb slide springs. They look OK but sometime in their life somebody took them out and stretched them to twice their proper length. They are 170mm but should be 85mm. As I never touched the springs I had no reason to suspect and the manual or WWW does not mention spring length anywhere. I now know they are ~85 mm.
They are the correct springs in terms of no of coils and wire size (0.7mm) and so on but the stetching would do two things. It increases the spring rate slightly but not as much as you would imagine (i've worked out the figures ~17N/M Vs ~15N/M) due to the coil diameter shrinking slightly. Its difficult to measure or work out the exact dia shrinkage!!
Number two and of more concern is that it would make the spring prone to bellying out on one side and jamming against the inside of the slide. I don't think that would help. While this must be a signifiacnt find I won't know for sure until I get the replacement springs but I am very optimistic this will have a big impact. I have the springs sourced and they are on the way. I will keep you posted as to how it works out.
Brendan :D ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2103.html#2103</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Janos, I will reply in more detail later but quickly yes the choke linkage is OK. The bike will run fine if you really accelerate fast and stay at top RPMs (9K )  but this is not a pleasant way to drive an old bike. 

However it got me thinking on the slide springs as they might be too strong or sticking unless you open up the throttle quickly. It might explain if the right side was sticking or too strong as it ought to cause it to run rich as it would not be truly CV then as the diaphram and spring rate would not be matched properly.

Since I posted I have had 2 good sources that advise me the 725A springs should be 82mm in one case and 85mm the other person. OK so 82 to 85 should be OK (in the relaxed state). 

I need to take off my carbs and check my ones. Also I need to make sure they are not heavier or adjusted springs off a 350 or anything as I understand a lot of people fooled about with springs to try and get the bikes to run faster / better.

It still does not really explain the right side issue on its own as I was sure both springs were the same length when I put the carbs together but I just want to rule this out anyway. There is also a lot of mentions of O rings leaking on forums so just for extra insurance I'm going to replace the O rings (again!) Keep you posted.

Brendan.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2102.html#2102</link>
	<description><![CDATA[
You wrote before that some camshaft changes were made from Serial#: CB250E-3015230 
I am sure that they had one before also  after the k0 model.
And one more: In Europe especially in Germany they used a camshaft to tame down the power from 30 to 27 horsepower because of tax laws but don't know exactly. I have one of these camshafts that came with a spare engine I got. I also have the official document regarding the change. This camshaft is recognizable from having the mark .051 number
at the ignition side of the shaft facing outside below the advancer.
wich carb belongs to this camshaft I don't know.
I saw You starting a new topic about spring length.
Thats an important question also.
That it for now, I will post my any new ideas if I have any.
I thought I should get an email if I get a reply but I was Wrong
regards
Janos
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2101.html#2101</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Brendan!
So if you've checked and went through everything don't forget to adjust the valve clearence also but it should not make the right side run rich, and I surely know that after these long year struggles You will not make mistakes as like not connecting the two carb choke linkage together so the left carb runs well without choke and the right one is on.
Swapping the carbs is a great idea but hard to test, because the best test is when you ride. :D 
Are you having the problem with stock air filters on?
Are you testing it when its on?
Because I only have problems with the air filters on.Without it runs great.My friend told me to use it without filters but NO WAY!
I hope You are having success this time.
I haven't been riding the 250 since last fall but last time I cleaned those y2c type carbs and put them on for a try but stil not working perfect. It only ran well a high rpms.
As I wrote before when my cb250 was running the best, it still was not perfect and a bit weak at 5000-6000,and has a loud sharp intake noise which is unusual comparing to the cb350.
Reading your post about carbs and camshafts got me interested.
Maybe our bikes carbs are  tuned for a different camshaft type?
Which carb for which shaft?
I got a book for Xmas called  Classic Honda Motorcycles and this mentions the following for CB250-350:"The camshafts had alot of overlap on the first models and Honda tamed them down a little by trimming 10 degrees off the overlap. This change required some carburetion changes, which cover most of the midrange and high speed settings, so one must be selective if changing carburetors from one series to another"

to be continued..

]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2100.html#2100</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Janos,

Sorry I only came across your last few messages today. I only came on the post again by accident as I was searching the net for more information. I haven?t been at the bike since the Summer. I thought the forum emails members when replies are posted? Anyhow getting back to the issue... Over the summer I set the float height to what I believe to be the correct height and checked everything again. Using the service kits I bought I replaced some of the jet components (as the old ones in some cases looked better machined). I also replaced all rubber O rings by taking the ones off the new jets. The left cylinder is perfect now with plug colour really as you would expect. The right cylinder is still running poorly and on the face of it seems to be running very rich. It?s still a mystery. Just in case I have totally gone over the ignition system and have checked and double checked everything as per the service manual. I fitted new Honda genuine points and a new condenser and also strobed against the flywheel. 

The next thing I want to try is to run it with the carbs swapped over. I know they won't fit exactly regarding the linkages but I can throttle by hand just to do a quick check to make absolutely sure the problem switches to the left cylinder before spending any more time on the carbs. 

You can tell immediately as the right side runs like the choke is stuck on. It misses a lot at mid range revs and smells of unburnt fuel. You can feel the cylinder missing with your hand at the end of the muffler.  I have also since got a very good pair of 3D carbs which I might try on the right side only just to see if it has any effect.

I hope you have had some success yourself?

Regards,

Brendan.
]]></description>
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	<title>Re: The bike pops out of first gear. I got to take out the motor and split the case to fix?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethebikepopsoutoffi_t2099.html#2099</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You won't have to pull the head and cylinder to split the case, you'll have to take off the side covers and some of the parts, ( stator, clutch, oil pump, etc). The jumping out of first gear could possibly be, and most likely is, that the engine has been apart before, and the transmission end bearing that has the locating pin was incorrectly installed. This pushes the pin through the case, and the bearing slips to the outside, allowing the engagement dogs on first gear to slip also. I have found this on 2 engines, and have seen one with a broken tooth on first gear. I have worked on these bikes for about 25 years, and have done just about everything that can be done to them. Hope this helps.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 runs hot!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350runshot_t2098.html#2098</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check the slides in your carburetors. They sometimes get gummed up and stick. I clean mine with fine grade steel wool. I also stretch the return spring to about 4.125 in. in length. ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>My 1974 Honda 400 Four</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/my1974honda400four_t2097.html#2097</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello!  I just joined this forum so I can find out more about the Honda I have.  it's a 1974 Honda 400 four with a rare Don Vesco faring.  It's been garaged for the last 30 years.  It ran before it was stored.  It is very restorable.  I am thinking about selling it, but I have no idea what it's worth.  I have searched the internet and cannot find any 1974 models out there, let alone with the faring.  Can anyone out there help me out?  I have some pics that I could email if anyone is interested.  Thanks!!]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Z50 A mini 1977</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/z50amini1977_t2096.html#2096</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Help!!! is there anyone out there that can help me? I recently discovered that I still had my old Mini bike in my mothers garage its the Honda Z50A 1977.  Looks like it is in rough shape and would like to get something for it?? anybody know a good way to sell this bike.  United stated, Massachusetts.   thanks Tom]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: workshop manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reworkshopmanual_t2095.html#2095</link>
	<description><![CDATA[we la ciao, thank you. hondaitalia gave me the workshop manual.
 :P ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/manual_t2094.html#2094</link>
	<description><![CDATA[buenas noches para todos soy de puerto madryn chubut argentina tengo una motoneta o scuter NSU PRIMA MODELO 1964 CILINDRADA 150 CENTIMETROS CUBICOS Y NECESITO CONSEGUIR EL MANUAL INSTRUCTIVO SOBRE LA MOTO si alguien puede ayudarme sobre el tema estare muy agradecido.un abrazo anibal]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: workshop manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reworkshopmanual_t2093.html#2093</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Paolo,

Well, these aren't exactly workshop manuals, but perhaps these  partsfiches can help you out ?
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Oil Leak Between head and Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilleakbetweenhead_t2092.html#2092</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hope you guys were successfull with your head gaskets.  I'm getting ready to replace the head gasket on my 72 cb350.  Any advice?

I blew the head gasket when I wasn't keeping up with an oil leak that I was monitoring and ran it out of oil. :oops: Obviously it was leaking faster than I thought.  Darn thing froze for about 20 minutes.  After standing on the kick starter and jumping up and down it finally freed up.  I put some oil in it and drove it home.  On every revolution oil would spurt out the side of the engine between the head and cylinder.  Oil was also running down the side from behind the points housing.  

What kind of trouble have I gotten myself into?  I've messed with all of the stuff on the outside, but have never been inside the engine.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>workshop manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/workshopmanual_t2091.html#2091</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi, tell me where to download the workshop manual cb 350k4?
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 Oil Pump Screen Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350oilpumpscreen_t2090.html#2090</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi, is a cb 350 twin??
paolo]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: SS50 clutch - how does it work ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/ress50clutch-howdoes_t2089.html#2089</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Ian, what part of the world are you in? I am in New Zealand.
If you have all the parts as per the parts list then the clutch should operate. The oil guide, oil through guide and clutch push rod, which all sit in the bearing, push the whole outer clutch assemby against the springs which disenguages the clutch.  It does not move very far.  Do you have the cable and arm adjusted properly. My email address is -  therumps@xtra.co.nz - you can contact me me on that if you need any further help.  I have just finished a S90Z and have a CL50, SS50, C320s and many more to restore.  I have stripped these small engines down to bare bone a few times and through making plenty of mistakes I am quite familiar with how they work.
Cheers
Nick]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Newbie in New Zealand</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newbieinnewzealand_t2088.html#2088</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all, I am about to begin a full restoration on a Honda C320S and would appreciate any information, help or advice anyone can give me.  I have just finished a S90Z, and waiting in thw wings are C72, C110, C115, CT200 trail, C200, CL50, SS50 and MOTOCOMPO.
Cheers
Nick - Down Under]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Honda ss50 4 speed restrictor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondass504speedres_t2087.html#2087</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yea the carb slide has been already modified. Someone mentioned that certain models of the ss50 had a smaller venturi than other models. On the flat mine will push 40 but it takes quite a while to get there.

Robert]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Honda ss50 4 speed restrictor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondass504speedres_t2086.html#2086</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, the 10mm carb for the ss50 is restricted by the throttle slide in the carb. Can be cut approx 10mm to increase its leeway (on the uncut slide there is a small notch where it should be cut). As far as I know there are no further restrictions that can removed from the carb.

If you want more info on the ss50 and increasing its speed join the Brittish moped forum (http://www.sixteenerspecial.co.uk/). Many ss50 enthousiast on there.

Cheers,

Bas]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Honda ss50 4 speed restrictor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondass504speedrestr_t2085.html#2085</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello is anyone sure of where the restriction is, in a honda ss50 engine? My dad had one when he was 16 and claims it could do 40mph to 50mph? I am aware there is a restriction but not aware how it can be modified.

Robert]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 engine power</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/ress50enginepower_t2084.html#2084</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello my 1975 ss50 has had the carb slide reduced in length before i got it i am unsure about the 10mm restrictor, where would this be found?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2083.html#2083</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I wrote a post a few days ago and it never appear.

So it's been a long time since the last reply but in April I didn't see Your last  post just the first two lines,still don't know why and I thought that this thread is over.
What happened???????????
Anyways I still want to continue discussing this subject because I still didn't solve the carb problem completely.
The carb info last posted is great, but I have some more thoughs to add.
There should be two more carburetor types for 250.
My 250 had 725A type on.
Later got a pair of 725B on ebay that was also sold as for the cb250.
It didn't solve the problem no matter which one was put on it.
I also bought a box of stripped and dirty carbs and carb parts(about 5)
containing 725A and 725B-s. But there were a pair of carbs marked as Y2C type which are identical (seem to be from outside)to the others I have seen before but they have smaller air screws.
Interesting, considering that the carb kits that I bought and are for CB250k4 came with that smaller type of air screw.
I didn't try these carbs yet since they need cleaning and are missing choke flaps.
One more:
All of the carbs I have and had before for 250 or 350 were completely looked the same an were same sizes, I know that does not mean that they work the same way.
They have differences in air holes though that are located at the throttle air valve. Some of them have 2 holes and some types have 3.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB 350 Oil Pump Screen Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350oilpumpscreenre_t2082.html#2082</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Everyone - On a CB350 how do you get the oil pump screen out for cleaning? Do you just loosen the bolts or does the pump actually have to come out? Thanks.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Oil Pump Screen Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/oilpumpscreenremoval_t2081.html#2081</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Everyone - How do you get the oil pump screen out for cleaning? Do you just loosen the bolts or does the pump actually have to come out? Thanks.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB 350 Mods... New jet size?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350modsnewjetsize_t2080.html#2080</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I gave a 72 Cb 350, fresh top end .30 over new pistons and rings. I have the uni air filters and 12 in. shorty glasspack mufflers. I know it needs to be jetted. 

What size for the Main? 
What size for the secondary? 

Also any tips on removing the idle jet for cleaning?

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB 350 Oil pump screen removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb350oilpumpscreenre_t2079.html#2079</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Everyone - How do you get the oil pump screen out for cleaning? Do you just loosen the bolts or does the pump actually have to come out? Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2078.html#2078</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am SO mad because when the last time I looked at this thread,the last post seemed like it was just the first two lines appearing on my computer, and after checking it for about 4 weeks (until May) I thought this thread has ended and I forgot about it until now.
I am so surprised that You posted so much info and I didn't see it!!!!!!
So it was not on purpose,and I am willing to continue this discussion about our carb problems.
Since I have other bikes besides the CB250 I haven't rode it a while ago but one thing I got to is for sure:
Sealing the jets properly is very important as well as the float height.
It is intertesting info that You found about carb types,some of them I heard of some of them I had my own and some I had no idea that there was any.
I will continue this post tomorrow as I check out the bike and know where I was exactly with the carb settings and jet sizes.
I want to share my infos about camshafts also.
Hope You guys still there...... 


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>HONDA model 1063 spark arrestor muffler???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/hondamodel1063sparka_t2077.html#2077</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a Honda exhaust system.  The muffler says Honda model 1063 spark arrestor...The muffler itself is 23" long.  the heat shield is 14 3/8" long.  There is 13" distance from the centerline of one mount point to the other.  The header pipe is 1.007" OD, and the pipe flange at the end is 1.275" OD.  It is a two piece unit.  Looks like CA105?? Anyone help me with this?
Regards, Jim]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: HONDA DREAM 350 MF 1957</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/rehondadream350mf195_t2076.html#2076</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Alan,

You forgot to include the pic!  :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>HONDA DREAM 350 MF 1957</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/hondadream350mf1957_t2075.html#2075</link>
	<description><![CDATA[HI,here's a pic of my honda dream 1957 350, it needs a complete restoreation, would love here from anyone who has the same bike. alan]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: OK, I&apos;m the new guy</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reok imthenewguy_t2074.html#2074</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi AD,

Good luck with your new project ( and the free cottage cheese ) :wink: 
For used parts, follow the advise from the previous poster. If you want the OEM stuff, then I'd recommend CMS, they have plenty for the scrambler:  

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: OK, I&apos;m the new guy</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reok imthenewguy_t2073.html#2073</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Enjoy the project, then enjoy the ride...  Lots of parts on EBAY.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: soon to be new honda owner - have some questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resoontobenewhondaow_t2072.html#2072</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The CB350 is an outstanding motorcycle and parts are readilly available.  If you think you can buy one and just start riding is probably not logical.  These bikes are 40 years old, and even if well maintained, probably have some issues.  Would not suggest you purchase and start out on a coast to coast trip.  Not trying to discourage you - quite the opposite.  I am having a ball with mine, but have not gone much more than 25 miles from home in the 3 weeks I have had it back on the road.

Regarding the paint job, that is another thing.  If you are buying to ride, and don't care about the resale value, do what you want with it.  Any repaint will destroy the resale value, but if you are buying for personal enjoyment, do your thing and make it truly your bike.

If you like black, you might want to look for a 1967 Honda 450 Black Bomber...  Really great bikes, but never got real popular for whatever reason...

In any event, enjoy the ride...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1967 CL125 Japanese domestic model</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1967cl125japanesedom_t2071.html#2071</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I picked up this bike on craigslist in San Diego California.  I have found NOTHING on this bike at all.  In the us, this bike was sold one year later with a pressed steel frame.  The frame on my bike is tubular. The US model has a 6 volt electric system and mine is 12 volt.  It does run, but needs a few little things that I'm not sure where to get.  Would the fork seals from a 68' US model work? Anyone have a 12 volt wiring diagram in English?  Was there a european model with a tube frame?  It reminds me of a CL175 frame, but a bit smaller.  The swingarm has he original sticker with Japanese writing and "CL125" on it.  Speedo is in KPH.  Any help would be appreceiated.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Connecting headlamp CB500 H4 instead of bulb</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/reconnectingheadlamp_t2070.html#2070</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It's up and running (burning)
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1972 cb350 k4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/re1972cb350k4_t2069.html#2069</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Nirab,

Are you going to restore both bikes?
If the  are unobtanium, I'd start restoring the better one, and perhaps use the other for spares ?


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Blinker - stupid question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/reblinker-stupidques_t2068.html#2068</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Maybe a bit late: bit perhaps this  can give you a clue ?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>OK, I&apos;m the new guy</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/ok imthenewguy_t2067.html#2067</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all,

  After many years of badgering a local old timer about his 1970 CL-350 Scrambler that was just sitting in his airport hangar gathering rust and turning what remaining fuel in the tank to a jell the consistency of cottage cheese, I finally convinced him to sell me the bike.

  He had said it was run a few times a year, but after looking at the overall condition, now that it's in my garage, I'd have to say this bike has not run in about 8 years.

  So, electrically it's in pretty good condition.  It's just the entire fuel system that I'm currently working on so that's the current plan of attack.

  Cosmetically it's in reasonably good shape and with any luck and picking up some parts I should have it running under its own power in a month, I hope.

  Anyway, I'm the new guy and it's good to find a place for us people who are trying to keep "our" history riding along.

  My daily rider is a BMW R1200RT.  My dirt bike is a Suzuki 350DR.  And now my "project" is this CL-350.

  AD]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Blinker - stupid question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/blinker-stupidquesti_t2066.html#2066</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Didn't take a rocket scientist to determine that I needed to replace the blinker relay on my 1970 CB350K2, so I order one.  When I received the new one, I went to the bike to do a simple replacement, but couldn't find where Honda hid the original.  I had presumed under the seat in the battery area, but was unable to locate.  Would appreciate any hints - please be gentle...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1971 CB 350 K3 Tank Badges</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/re1971cb350k3tankbad_t2065.html#2065</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks, Ian. I discovered that a few days ago. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1972 cb350 k4</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1972cb350k4_t2064.html#2064</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just bought 2 cb350 k4's. no bike experience whatsoever. both have fuel tank missing. one's engine turns over and the other doesnt.
where do i begin?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 clutch.how does it work ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ress50clutchhowdoesi_t2063.html#2063</link>
	<description><![CDATA[thanks.have posted similar on that forum.cheers]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cam chain replacment</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/camchainreplacment_t2062.html#2062</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi there a mate of mine as a 400-4 and wants to know if you can change the cam chain without splitting the engine,if so what tools are needed,cheers.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 clutch.how does it work ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ress50clutchhowdoesi_t2061.html#2061</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, not exactly sure how it works, but I'm sure you'ill find the answer at the Brittish moped forum (http://www.sixteenerspecial.co.uk/). Many ss50 enthousiast on there.  :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1971 CB 350 K3 Tank Badges</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/re1971cb350k3tankbad_t2060.html#2060</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi , well if they are the same as most early hondas - they just prise off.on little spigots.Do it gently - just getting behind badge and lever evenly....]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>ss50 clutch.how does it work ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ss50clutchhowdoesitw_t2059.html#2059</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi , can anyone help - I'm flummoxed if I can understand how the clutch works on an SS50.....I've stripped it down and everything looks fine ( but it dont work ! )....but I cant see how it even operates - there is nothing to disengage clutch plate - just a button in centre which presses on a little spring which appears to do nothing , certainly not strong enough to move clutch plates when clutch lever pulled.....and these 2 or 3 parts are called oilways/guides ( as per parts list )....is it something to do with centrifugal force ??........would welcome some advice
thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>SS50 clutch - how does it work ?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/ss50clutch-howdoesit_t2058.html#2058</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi ,  can anyone help - I'm flummoxed if I can understand how the clutch works on an SS50.....I've stripped it down and everything looks fine ( but it dont work ! )....but I cant see how it even operates - there is nothing to disengage clutch plate - just a button in centre which presses on a little spring which appears to do nothing , certainly not strong enough to move clutch plates when clutch lever pulled.....and these 2 or 3 parts are called oilways/guides ( as per parts list )....is it something to do with centrifugal force ??........would welcome some advice]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1971 CB 350 K3 Tank Badges</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1971cb350k3tankbadge_t2057.html#2057</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Everyone,

How do you get the tank badges off. I don't see any screw heads. Are these pressed on or glued on?

Thanks.

DM]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda cb 350 starting problem. Help pls!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondacb350startingpr_t2056.html#2056</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My friends honda cb 350 hadnt been used for 30 years. Now I dicided to take it out and fix it. I checked the carbs. The point is giving current. the spark plug is giving sparks. But its not starting.
Advice me on a solution with my problem please. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Yet another Canuck...(honda C201)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/reyetanothercanuckho_t2055.html#2055</link>
	<description><![CDATA[@kerver:

Perhaps if you post your serial here, ppl can respond.

Alternatively, the ppl. of CMS might also be able to help you, if you file a 

Cheers!  :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 CL 350 Scrambler Questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1973cl350scramblerqu_t2054.html#2054</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone. Upfront appreciation and thanks for anyone that can help me out with a couple of questions that have come along since I started maintenance and upgrades to the scrambler. I may not have all the correct technical terms to describe the parts, but I am going to try hard to describe it... Here they are:

1) @ idle, what position (angle) should the moving timing indicator be at?

2) Also, I know there are 2 fixed indicators that the moving timing indicator should eventually reach at a certain RPM.. at what RPM should it be in-between these 2 fixed indicators?

3) I understand that one should use ATF for fork oil.. do most people still use ATF? Any specific type I should use? Are there other fork oils at a certain weight that can be used?

4) I am having problems using fuel filters in that their will be a bubble caught between the fuel filter and carb which causes gas NOT to flow to the carb.... bypass the filter and the gas flows just fine... any idea why?

5) What are the stock sizes of the front and rear sprockets?

6) Are there aftermarket front shocks that anyone recommends?

7) I recently installed rear 13" NOS Red Wing shocks. Except now i cant put on the chain guard.. has anyone else had this problem? any solutions?

Cool Are there any aftermarket bash plates for the scrambler? or has anyone every fabricated one? I like the look...

I am sure i missed a question there, but its a good start.. i appreciate any help.. winter is arriving so I plan to do some work while its in the garage.

Thanks!
Mark
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1968? Honda CD90 C201</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/1968hondacd90c201_t2053.html#2053</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey all, 

I just picked up a Honda C201.  I just located the serial(painted over) and am wondering what the serial on this bikes should look like.  Mine is 10 possibly 11 digits in total.  C201Y followed by 5 maybe 6 numbers. 

Does anyone know anything about these serial numbers?  

I had the bike running but the clutch plates needed replaced so I did that, started it up it worked good.  Turned it off and it wouldn't start again.  Seems to be some wiring problems or something......

Cheers!
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Yet another Canuck...(honda C201)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/reyetanothercanuckho_t2052.html#2052</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well I found my serial number.  It had been painted over and most if not all of it was legible.  Its a 10 digit number possibly 11 I can't tell for sure.  Does anyone out there know how long these serials should be???  There is also a random Y in it.  Not sure what that means.

Anybody out there???]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>I need to know</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ineedtoknow_t2051.html#2051</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm still working on my CL450. Now I'm trying to put some saddlebags on it. Has anyone put saddlebags on a 1972 honda 450? Is the shock going to get in the way? Do I need brackets? or can I just put the leather bags on and strap them down to the frame? If anyone knows, please respond to this. Thanks,     Tammy]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Yet another Canuck...(honda C201)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/reyetanothercanuckho_t2050.html#2050</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey, i've also got one of these.  i can't find the serial number.  Seems to be painted over or something.  Found a number on the engine...not sure if it would be the same as the serial.

Anyone know where the serial number is located on these bikes and what the format might be?

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>soon to be new honda owner - have some questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/soontobenewhondaowne_t2049.html#2049</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey guys,

i'm getting ready to buy an early 70's honda but still doing some research.  would really appreciate any help you can give me..


my first (possibly lame) question is:  how bad would it be to paint a 350 all black?  i know they don't really come in black in early 70's.  is it considered uncool to do so?  i just really like black


also, do you think a cb350 is a good "starter bike" ?  i drove a vespa in college so i'm familiar with 2 wheel transpo, but never had a motorcycle.


what i'd really like is an early 70's 350, possibly with cafe bars...   i'm thinking of buying whatever i find that's a good bike and painting..

any thoughts or suggestions appreciated. 
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda CL72 Triple Tree</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondacl72tripletree_t2048.html#2048</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Trying to restore a 1963 CL72 Scrambler. Hitch right now is Triple Tree bearings. Does anyone know specs on the bearings, upper and lower, or where i can find the info or bearings for sale  OR if there is another model that will work
Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda cl350 starting problems.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hondacl350startingpr_t2047.html#2047</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So i have a honda cl350 that was running fine until i decided to remove the battery.

When i reconnected everything....it idles kind of low at first and then it gives me brief power for about 100 feet before it dies. I have hooked it up to a trickle charger and it will run a little better but still cant be taken anywhere.

A couple things I noticed:

1) There are three connections to the positive terminal. Is there a specific order these should be in?

2)The breather tube is pretty loosly on....how does this affect how it runs?

I have literally been sitting outside trying to figure this out forever.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;73 CL350 K5 Passenger Grab Rail</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73cl350k5passengergr_t2046.html#2046</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a (U.S) '73 CL35, has all the identifiers of a K5 (Hawaiian Blue, tilted instruments, sidecover emblems black on white, 500XXXXXX serial) but no chrome passenger grip pipe.  (Interestingly, the original title showed it listed as a K4)

I know the history of this bike since nearly new and the 37 year owner confirms no chrome passenger grip pipe.  It has the '72 and earlier black rear turn signal mount ears that bolt to the frame.  This makes it impossible to mount the chrome passenger grip pipe since it will rub on the turn signal.  I believe these mounts to be the original.  The rear turn signal mounts were moved to the chrome passenger grab rail on the '73's with this change.

Questions:  Did all K5's get the chrome passenger grip pipe(I've seen a few that didn't)? Could this bike have been a 'transition' K4, or a K5 that missed a phase-in of this addition?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350- No compression Left Side</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350-nocompre_t2045.html#2045</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Oh my god!  Dont plan a major engine rebuild!  Its in thop end as the first reply specifies.  Its no doubt a piston or burnt/stuck valve. easy fix - learn to do it your self!  Get a Chiltons manual and take it apart and learn here at the forum.  :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t2044.html#2044</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ryan, Ive worked with these bikes for 35 years. When you say new carbs, what do you mean? different used carbs, or really clean good new carbs?  You problem does sound like a carb problem to me. These bikes are very sensitive to that, and you can do everything new except carbs, and still have a problem. If you changed carbs, and now the problem has moved to the opposite side, I m betting on carb problems. tell me what condition these carbs are in and we will go from there. And I do agree, 12 volts to the coil is all you need.  Think about it for a minute, the engine needs nothing but good fuel and spark to run. Now they must be supplied correctly and at the right time, but the spark comes from the coil. It will run all day with 12 volts positive to the coil and the negative side to the motor. So if timing is right, and 12 volts is supplied, your problem is fuel. A cold cylinder does not always mean no spark, no explosion. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: bike races at idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebikeracesatidle_t2043.html#2043</link>
	<description><![CDATA[When the condition happens, what position are the carb slides in?  The diaphram lifts the slide valves. are they closed or open - opening them increases idle.  Check their position out when the engine is idleing high first. That will tell you something. If they are not bottomed out at idle, thats the problem. Check the cables for binding, and check the slide function. Do they seat at all? Dirty carbs, and dirty jets dont cause a bike to rev high. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Electrical</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectrical_t2042.html#2042</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The kill switch is a single wire control that grounds out the coil function. Are you getting spark at the plugs?  If so it is not the kill switch. If you are not getting spark at the plugs and the kill switch is suspected, remove the handlebar control casing from the handlebar momentarily. This eliminates the possibility of the kill switch grounding. If the switch is bad you can just disconnect that wire from the kill switch button.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1972 cl350 scrambler jetting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1972cl350scrambler_t2041.html#2041</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yes, you may find a lean condition, I suspect that you will need slightly larger mains. Are you changing the exhaust, are you porting the heads?  If so definetly if you eliminate some back pressure in the exhaust you will need a rejet. Generally they will run ok, but upon deceleration the machine will backfire. That can be cured with a slight opening of the main jets.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Won&apos;t idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewontidle_t2040.html#2040</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What condition are you carbs in?  Bikes that sit alot get a bad condition in the carbs that cause this problem due to a fungus. Does the bike idle ok with the choke on?  Will it keep running with the choke on?  If so - you need a carb cleaning and rebuild. And oh yes, if thats it, after cleaning use a good fuel conditioner to help keep this from happening again.  Also - the point gap as mentioned will cause this.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl350 runs hot!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350runshot_t2039.html#2039</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Alex, remember also, a lean condition causes heat!  Hesitation at high rpm can mean too lean.  Is the float setting ok?  Warm weather can cause problems like this. Are your plugs really clean?  if so, the bike may be too lean. Pull on the choke a bit at the moment of sputter. Just a bit.  Does that improve the condition?  If so - Look at float levels and main jet cleanliness.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CB350 stops running</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cb350stopsrunn_t2038.html#2038</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Mike, are you sure it is loading up?  if the plugs are clean, I tend to think the problem is the opposite, too lean for high speed.  Are the carbs original?  Did you change anything on the exhaust?  When it starts to struggle, pull the choke on just ever so slightly, and then a bit more. Does that make it worse or better?  Better means fuel starvation, that means checking your main jets, and float setting. The float may be a bit too low, making the machine use a bit more fuel than the float valves are giving you at high speed. If the jets are clean and are original, I bet the floats need to be changed just a tad to allow more fuel at high speed. That choke test will give you the answer.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Need a few pointers</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reneedafewpointers_t2037.html#2037</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Mike, engines are the same - the gasket kits are interchangable. The cl simply has no starter and the sprokets are different. The Cb has a starter ( which can be added to a cl)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 SL350 Clutch adjustment</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970sl350clutchadj_t2036.html#2036</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Steve, I mentioned this in another post - is the ball still in the seat of the sidecover lever?  there is a ball bearing (one ball) in the seat of the lever where the end of the clutch pushrod goes. Many times in cable replacements, the ball falls out unknowingly, making it impossible to adjust the clutch. Also, did you make certain that the disks went back in the clutch pack properly? and was everything good and clean?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: clutch wont engage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reclutchwontengage_t2035.html#2035</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Josh, did the ball fall out of the clutch engage lever when you installed the new cable?  there is a ball on the lever between the lever seat and the clutch pushrod. Without it you cant get the clutch to engage. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda cl350 with stuck motor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondacl350withstuc_t2034.html#2034</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Jose, there are many ways to unstick pistons, depends on the amount of rust or corrosion. How long the motor sat etc. Many times, unfortunately, the pistons must be sacrificed. This method is to use a 5 lb hammer and beat the pistons out of the cylinders. 
To soak them, pb blaster and heat is good, also automatic transmission fluid poured in the cylinders, heated and left for several days helps. There are many combinations, but generally most dont work. I have taken off the head and camcase, and used a dremel tool to cut the pistons away from the wrist pins. This does allow shavings to go in the case, meaning a complete teardown, but at this point, Im sure thats what you will do. you can then pull the cylinders and get the rest of the mess out of them. This method ruins the pistons but causes no damage to the  rods - good luck and alot of elbow grease! ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>clutch ball</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/clutchball_t2033.html#2033</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Josh is the ball bearing in the end of the clutch engage lever in the side cover?  The ball goes in the lever hole that the engage shaft fits in.  without it,  the clutch does not engage. Sometimes in the cable change the ball falls out.  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB350 twin cylinder rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350twincylinde_t2032.html#2032</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I can tell you this much - I rebuilt a 1972 cb350 engine. The cam chain is not broken and does not have a master link. The cam is removed from the cam case. Both ends are removed (breaker point housing and Speedometer gear housing). Then be very careful and remove the cam gear, two 10 mm bolts do the job, but one is marked differently than the other, (9) and they are not interchangable.  The gear must go back on the cam exactly in the position that it was removed to assure proper timing.  The cam is withdrawn out the speedo gear side. As for the gasket set, see Z1 enterprises at www.z1enterprises.com - their sets are fabulous - about $30.00  How are your carbs?  You can get new Mikunis for it for about 450.00 for the full set - ready to go. Your old carbs no doubt have a diaphram, and they are generally bad, and can be replaced, but the cost is horrible. New diaohrams are no longer available.   Your book will be very helpful with the cam chain problem, but again, dont break a link, the idea is to remove the cam.   :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Won&apos;t idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewontidle_t2031.html#2031</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Is your battery at full charge?  my cb350 runs beautifully if the battery is fully charged but when the battery gets low i start having the same problems.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Won&apos;t idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewontidle_t2030.html#2030</link>
	<description><![CDATA[oh yeah, new points and condenser too]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Won&apos;t idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/wontidle_t2029.html#2029</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My wife has a 71 CB350.  She was just running last week.  We went out today for a ride and it'll start up.  But whenever we try to give her gas she dies, she won't  idle for more than 5 seconds and when I put her into gear she dies.  I check the plugs and they seem fine.  Any idea's or suggestions?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t2028.html#2028</link>
	<description><![CDATA[On the topic of the carb nomenclature, perhaps the 722 & 725 refer to cubic liters of flow per minute, as many brand of auto carbs are listed.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t2027.html#2027</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I found some NOS ones that cost me $370 american so if you can find used carbs try that.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 CB350 twin cylinder rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cb350twincylinderr_t2026.html#2026</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1971 CB350 twin cylinder, I got it two years ago and have been just riding it around town sine at or below 60mph. The other day I got excited and went down the interstateat 70 mph for about 15 minutes and the left cylinder lost power and the bike started smoking really bad from the valve cover. The left cylinder altready smoked a little before so I tink Ijust need to hone it and replace the rings and since Iam in there then lap the valves and replace the valve guides.
 I pulled the moor yersterday and got the valve cover off and could not figure out how to get the cam chain off to remove the head, I dont have a manual by the way. I just ordred a shop manal but may not be here for a couple weeks. So until then I would like to get the engine apart and get my parts on order to be ready when the manual arrives. What I need to know is:
 1) How to remove the cam chain
 2) What type of rings to use
 3) What brand of gaskets to buy, I want it done right the first time
 4)I have heard conflicting tales on what type of cam chain tensioner to use, so what type should i get
 5)any tips for better performance while i have it apart

Thanx,
Spencer]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1974 CB 750 Chains</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re1974cb750chains_t2025.html#2025</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Tsubaki does make a good chain. We have used them in the shop for some time with no problems. Keep them lubricated. I do suggest an RK XSZ1 X Ring chain for your bike. I have one of these on my CB450 Cafe and love it, (very close to max clearance on mine). Keep it lubricated to prvent rust and sprockets from wearing. Keep it clean and NOT WITH A PRESSURE WASHER! Use WD40 and a rag to wipe clean.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Cb900 custom questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/cb900customquestions_t2024.html#2024</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am looking for a sissy bar/back rest as well as some floor boards for my 1984 cb900c

Any suggestions?


Cheers,
Todd ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda XBR 500 Owners manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehondaxbr500ownersm_t2023.html#2023</link>
	<description><![CDATA[A bit of googling gave me  which actually works after you wait the mandatory 60 seconds or so.

Enjoy!  :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda XBR 500 Owners manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehondaxbr500ownersm_t2022.html#2022</link>
	<description><![CDATA[FYI: the manual that Martin linked to, is NOT free.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda XR 600 age?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hondaxr600age_t2021.html#2021</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,Newbie here with a problem.
I need to know what year is frame number  jhzpe0406fk008144 on a Honda XR 600.
I can't order parts till I know,please help?
Thanks, Geoff]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda XBR 500 Owners manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehondaxbr500ownersm_t2020.html#2020</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i found this Link to a Digital Workshop Manual for Honda XBR 500:



maybe this can help you.

Greetings from Spain

Martin]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Paint colours</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/paintcolours_t2019.html#2019</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I  have a honda CB$00f2 1978. It had been been resprayed by the previous owner. I woould like to get it professionally resprayed, and would like to know the correct paint, and where to get it. it is described in the log book as being red. also where would I be able to get the dacals for it in the UK?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Left side cover will not go back on bike - &apos;72 CL 350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/leftsidecoverwillnot_t2018.html#2018</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,

I recently had an oil leak coming from my points cap.  I took the points cap off and saw the oil seal behind the points plate and spark advancer plug had burned out and oil was coming through.

I am not sure why the oil seal burned out in the first place, perhaps the engine was running too hot.

as I was replacing this, I noticed a collection of oil beneath the gasket between the side cover and cam case.  I decided to take the side cover off to get a look at the gasket.  It came off with some wiggling, but now it will not go back on.  I practically dipped it in lube to try and slide it back on, but it seems like it only wants to go half way.  I tried lightly tapping it with a hammer to move, but it still stops at a certain point (in doing this I managed to slightly damage the side cove face).  

is this part installed with a press fit?  does any one know how to help with this?  I know it was my mistake for taking it off in the first place without knowing how to get it back on. If anyone could offer advice, it would be much appreciated.  here is a diagram of the parts in question

http://www.hondarestoration.com/fiche_fr.htm?http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cl350_model194/

thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda CB900FB Bol D&apos;or Rev counter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondacb900fbboldorre_t2017.html#2017</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Help! The tiny screw inside the rev counter has come loose and is now rattling around inside the glass.
Is there any way to open the rev counter as it seems to be impossible to open without bending the metal surround.
Any ideas??????? Thanks... :shock: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CA95 petcock screws</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/reca95petcockscrews_t2016.html#2016</link>
	<description><![CDATA[u might have better luck in the www.honda305.com forums.   There are alot more people on there with "Dreams"

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 Honda 305 Dream</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/1969honda305dream_t2015.html#2015</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just bought this from a guy that had it in the sloan museum in flint michigan, usa.



]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda Dream 305 1963-69 What are the differences?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/rehondadream3051963-_t2014.html#2014</link>
	<description><![CDATA[the year should be at the end of your VIN number on the frame.  Left side, slightly lower than the brake lever on the frame.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cl350 runs hot!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cl350runshot_t2013.html#2013</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My cl350 has been running fine until recently. It has hesitation at about 5000-5500 rpm. I can feather thru this sputter, but it seems to get worse as the bike gets hotter. And is it getting hot! My main suspect right now is the timing, but would love some other suggestions. Maybe it is too hot outside and I need to run hot plugs (running br8es). anyone?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1975 honda xl 125 parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/re1975hondaxl125part_t2012.html#2012</link>
	<description><![CDATA[@ trezza:

How is the restoration coming along ?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Present ideas for the BF</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/representideasforthe_t2011.html#2011</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Bridgette,

If you're looking for Honda Helmets, then you might want to check out these pages:





For another idea: why don't you print an image of the CA200 on canvas for a present?
There are plenty of  :)
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Present ideas for the BF</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/presentideasforthebf_t2010.html#2010</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey there,

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas for me, my boyfriends birthday is coming up in a little while and I want to get him something special thats motorbike related.

He has just bought a 1966 HONDA CA 200 90 that he is getting up and running and rechromed etc and I would love to get him something for it or something associated with it. I dont really know too much about parts or anything, and he has already been doing lots of online purchasing to get new bits and bobs for it so he probably has everything he needs in that respect. 

Is there any other things or ideas that people can think of that would surprise him as a good gift?

I know he would like a new vintagey open faced helmet as his old helmet is pretty sporty and modern looking but it cost him so much he cant justify buying another one just yet, but then i dont really know for sure what type he would want without asking him and I want to surprise him.

Any ideas or thoughts would be very much appreciated!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb350k4  carbs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb350k4carbs_t2009.html#2009</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ i have keihin 2d carbs is this ok for a cb350k4 :?: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 SL350 KICKSTART JAMMED PLEASE HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72sl350kickstartja_t2008.html#2008</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My kickstarter wont disengage all the way and it sounds like when you push down on it slightly whie the engine is running , ant ideas? :?: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil Leak I cant figure out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilleakicantfigure_t2007.html#2007</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Could it be your cam seal?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t2006.html#2006</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Bad ground. Run a jumper wire from the battery - to a screw on the  coil bracket. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB400F Exhaust header...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb400fexhaustheade_t2005.html#2005</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ :D 
Thanks Rene - I just realized it is your site I was directed to! I have left a message for you on your site and added you to my Honda bookmarks.

Let me know how to proceed w/ ship to USA.

Thanks again.

John M]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t2004.html#2004</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,thanks for all your imput....but the bike still wont run. Tom, we thought to that it was a carb problem to. So i went and bought to different carbs and swapped carbs. Now the right side is firing but the left side(was the side that fired befor the carb swap) is dead and firing cold. ???? Im completey baffeled. This is what ive done to the bike: new plugs,new carbs,new points,adjusted the cam chain ten.,new condenser,its got good spark witch tells me that the coils are good. I can only get one side to fire at once. Help!!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB400F Exhaust header...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb400fexhaustheade_t2003.html#2003</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check here:

http://shop.honda4.nl/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=38_36_154_437&products_id=1065&language=en]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>sl175 triple clamp</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/sl175tripleclamp_t2002.html#2002</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have an SL175 and needed a new triple clamp. Can any one tell me what other model clamps will fit my frame newer, older models or even different manufactures .  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hello, 71 Honda CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hello 71hondacl350_t2001.html#2001</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,  

My name is Ursulina. I'm from Virginia USA.  I just joined the forum.  I would like to ask if anyone is familar with which electronic ignition will work on a 1971 Honda CL350.  If you know & would like to share the details, I would appreciate the info.  :D 

~ Ursulina]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1971 CB 350 Starter clutch bad?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1971cb350starterclut_t2000.html#2000</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all, newbe here. I have a 71 CB 350, kicks free then binks up, CAN NOT kick, so put in 2nd gear rock engine then will kick again ALSO strter spins free and does NOT engage engine!

Please any help here?
Thanks!
john]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda cl350 with stuck motor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hondacl350withstuckm_t1999.html#1999</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Greetings to all, This is my first time posting. I own several italian bikes and one honda motorcycle/ I purchased this bike as is with stuck motor. The motor does not turn over, what kind of suggestions can I get from you guys in regards to loosening up the engine? Any advice would be welcomed. Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB400F Exhaust header...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb400fexhaustheade_t1998.html#1998</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks for lead - will check out; just really need the one #3 pipe, so if anyone knows of one ...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB400F Exhaust header...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb400fexhaustheade_t1997.html#1997</link>
	<description><![CDATA[CMS do a complete replacement exhaust which is an absolute facsimile of the original, you can buy from them, or if you do not have an account the same items can be purchased from Phil Denton Engineering in the U.K]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Converting &apos;69 CB350 to disk brakes</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reconverting69cb350t_t1996.html#1996</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Fitting old period Honda disc brake is a backward step. Have the drums refurbished and relined with modern linings and they will work better than period discs. SRM Engineering in the U.K can do this work, but I guess there may be American companies also.
  The originality and classic value is also destroyed with such a conversion.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: jet size </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rejetsize_t1995.html#1995</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How does it run with the 105 jets? If O.K why change? If not then you can get the jets from CMSNL I believe]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: bike races at idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebikeracesatidle_t1994.html#1994</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If loosening the idle screws does not work, then have the carbs sonically cleaned and refurbished. It is expensive but you get back affectively brand new carbs, both in function and appearance. Phil Denton Engineering can do this for you]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 SL 350 ko   exhaust assembly question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970sl350koexhaust_t1993.html#1993</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The collar goes between header and muffler over header, inside muffler. The clamp goes on the outside of the muffler........]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 19 inch wheel on 1970 CB350???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re19inchwheelon1970c_t1992.html#1992</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It will probably catch on the front fender and will look a little odd as the radius of the fender is matched to an 18" wheel. Also the speedo will be incorrect]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Gas cap troubles HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/regascaptroubleshelp_t1991.html#1991</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Drill a very small hole in the cap, all the way through, about 1 or 2mm. This will cure the problem........it is cheaper than buying a new cap which is your only alternative]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CB350 Swingarm Collars Needed</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cb350swingarmc_t1990.html#1990</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Phil Denton Engineering in the U.K cam make these collars for you in stainless steel]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Best manual for rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebestmanualforrebui_t1989.html#1989</link>
	<description><![CDATA[In the U.K we have Haines manuals, but the Clymer are pretty good to]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t1988.html#1988</link>
	<description><![CDATA[One sure fire cure to ignition problems is to fit a www.electrexworld.co.uk ignition system. they do racing and road and work perfectly]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Best manual for rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebestmanualforrebui_t1987.html#1987</link>
	<description><![CDATA[In the U.K we have Haines manuals, but the Clymer are pretty good to]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fuel lines</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refuellines_t1986.html#1986</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi You should have the carbs sonically cleaned. 
In the U.K a company called Phil Denton Engineering can do this for you and at the same time return the carbs to brand new appearance and operation. If you still have a problem after that then the tank is not venting correctly.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350- No compression Left Side</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350-nocompre_t1985.html#1985</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi 
  First of all never scrap a CL350 1970 model. These change hands in good condition for well over �3000.00 in the U.K! They are very desirable classic Honda's. You do need however a total engine re-build as you have suffered a major failure. In the U.K Phil Denton Engineering is the specialist that can do this, and in the USA you may like to talk to Terry Naughtin on 630 655 5518 he is in Ilinois. If he will not rebuild the engine he may know somebody who will? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 CL 350- No compression Left Side</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350-nocompre_t1984.html#1984</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Wes,
A couple of quick checks are easy to perform. First, take the valve cover adjusting covers off the offending side, and make sure the valves are closing.  Possibly a valve is stuck open.  If so, you may be able to tap it to see if it will close.

Another check is to buy a small laser light with a small head on a flexible shaft.  I bought mine up here (Canada) from Canadian Tire, but Harbor Freight or an Auto supply store should have one.  You can actually insert this into the spark plug hole and look in to the cylinder. Rotate the motor with either the kicker or the rear wheel with bike on stand and in 4th gear.  If there is a hole in the piston, there's your problem.

You can rebuild these engines fairly easily, if you have the tools (10, 12, 14, 17. and 19mm sockets and wrenches are all you really need), a couple of friends to help lift the motor out (comes out the right side), and a sturdy bench. You should buy an impact screwdriver before you start, as some of the screws will be too tight for and ordinary phillips screwdriver.  You probably only need to rebuild the top end, as the bottom ends, transmissions, etc. are usually good.  You may need to get it bored out, buy new pistons and rings, and get a valve job, and be sure to get new timing chain tensioner.  I think they are still available from Honda.  Naturally, you will need gasket set.

Another option is to check with bike junkyards.  If you find a motor that still turns over with compression, it will probably run.
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 350 non start + Alternator cover + kickstart</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re350nonstartalterna_t1983.html#1983</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Dave,
I just joined so maybe your problem is solved.  Anyway, for the benefit of others, here's my best guess.

First, make sure you don't have too much oil in the motor. Check it with bike on the centerstand, or hold it vertical.  Only a small amount of oil is normally in the timing  cover. If you have accidently added an extra quart, the extra oil can be a problem.  In fact, you can even run a CB350 with this cover off if you lean it over slightly to the right (use a jackstand on the right foot peg mount, not the folding peg, obviously!)and no oil should leak out.
 
Has anyone had the point cam advance mechanism apart?  You can actually pull the points cam out of the advance mechanism, and put it back in 180 degrees out of time. The motor will then do exactly as you described.  Make sure you're actually getting gas to the carbs.  The tank valve can get filled up with rust or dirt, and not let any gas thru.

The kick start issue is not clear. Are you sure the clutch is not slipping when kicking it over?  Otherwise, you will have to remove the right side cover to check out the kick start spring and engagement.

Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t1982.html#1982</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ryan,
I've been working on CB350's for about 5 years, mostly racing.  I read your question because I'm having an ignition problem myself, and it started missing on the right cylinder.  First, you don't need a charging system to run your bike.  As long as the charging system is not shorting out or draining your battery (voltage has not dropped below 11 volts or so), your bike should run.  You can disconnect everything, and just run a wire from your battery (plus) terminal to the small connector beneath the tank that connects to your coils ( I believe the wires, one to each coil, are black with a white stripe). As long as you have good voltage, the bike should run. To determine if the problem is with one of the coils or condensers, you can actually reverse the yellow and blue wires that come from your points at their terminal at the coils, and reverse the high tension wires by switching them from one side to the other.  If the problem reverses sides, then suspect your coil or condenser. If the problem does not reverse, then suspect your right spark plug, or the right carburetor. Let us know how you make out.
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>I need help with my kick start spring!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/ineedhelpwithmykicks_t1981.html#1981</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I need some help.  Can anyone please post some pics of the correct way that the kick start spring is configured.  There is a small ear that is part of the case that has been broken off on my 73 cl350 and I'm not sure if this is where the spring is supposed to be contacting.

thanks, Jeff]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB400F Exhaust header...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/cb400fexhaustheader_t1980.html#1980</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Need ONE!!

I need a #3 cylinder header/downpipe for my 1975 CB400F. This is one of the pipes that are clamp connected to the collector at the bottom of the bike (the #2 and#4 pipes are welded to the collector) I have found a #1 pipe but #3 is discontinued- Any good used ones out there?

I can be reached during work hours (EST- USA East coast) at 305 663 2141 - leave message if necessary.

John M. CB400F]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB400f (400 four) electrics - lighting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb400f400fourelect_t1979.html#1979</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello - new to this site and I see this is an old post, but I am having a problem with 400F headlight as well. Did you get any help in solving your Hi/Lo swap?

My issue is different - headlight is stronger when key is switched to 'P' position than when 'On'. Measures right at 1 volt more in 'P'. I am planning to switch to H-4 lamp but would like to sort out wiring first.
ANy Thoughts?

BTW am also Brit Bike owner (3 BSAs) - have always loved the CB400F tho since I sold Hondas back in '70s.

J&J CB400F]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Connecting headlamp CB500 H4 instead of bulb</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/reconnectingheadlamp_t1978.html#1978</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello - new to this site....
My H4 lamp socket only has 3 wires, and with differing colors, but Red is ground, Yellow is high beam and Blue is low. Perhaps you have 2 brown wires because one is for a pilot/parking light? I would start with the ground and swap wires around until it works correctly.
Good Luck ...
J&J CB400F
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1972 cl350 scrambler jetting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1972cl350scramblerje_t1977.html#1977</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I got myself a Honda 1972 cl350 scrambler im getting my cylinder bored to .25 over bore. The question that i have is, do i have to rejet the carbs?and if yes how do i do that? im also going to put on airfilter pods on which also probably requires jetting.So can anyone help me? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>No power</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/nopower_t1976.html#1976</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone. I just bought a 1980 Honda Twinstar CM200T on Saturday. I was riding it yesterday and lost all electric. Couldn't even kick start. I checked the battery and it's got just under 5 volts. The fuse off the battery is ok, and the terminals are tight and not corroded. The previous owner said she had the rectifier replaced last year as well as the battery. This is my first bike and am not very familiar with troubleshooting, so any help is greatly appreciated. Where should I start looking? Thanks in advance.

Dave]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Connecting headlamp CB500 H4 instead of bulb</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/connectingheadlampcb_t1975.html#1975</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi ya all,

Crashed my CB500 several years ago, and in the process of patching it up :).

Bought a headlamp to replace the old one. The new head lamp however is a halogen H4, wheras the old one had an oldfashioned bulb.

My problem is the wiring. The old bulb had a white and blue wire, plus green for earth. The H4 had 4 wires, 2 brown, 1 yellow and forgot the 4th color.

Is it possible to connect the Halogen lamp to the old wiring? Any suggestions how to connect this? 

Tnx in advance for your help!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>speedometer fix</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/speedometerfix_t1974.html#1974</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all,

  i just bought a 1981 Honda CB650 with 13k miles on it and everything is great other then the previous owner changed the front sprocket on it...then when he couldnt fix the speedometer being off...he bought another off ebay and replaced the old with this "new" one but the speedometer runs at a 2:1 ratio so if im doing 30mph *gauged by gps unit* then the speedometer says im doing 60mph....how can i fix this?


                                              - Jon A. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350four Leaky Carb Fix</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb350fourleakycarbfi_t1973.html#1973</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am a trained motorcycle tech near Harrisburg, Pa. who rebuilds carburetors.
A customer brought me a rack of cb350four carbs that would not stop leaking on the garage floor "no matter what he did". He even had them at a reputable shop in the area whose "fix" was to put "plugs" in the overflow tubes..???.. even after that they still leaked when sitting. They told him all the cb350's had this issue.
He brought the carbs to me, and after extensive trial & error,I was able to mod the carbs and make them leak-free. The problem is actually a design flaw on these carbs which allows the floats to come down too far,(most carbs have a stop built in to the float or post),allowing the float needle valve to actually get "caught" and stick. My guaranteed fix costs $80.00 & includes return shipping for the rack of 4 carbs and does not require mods to the floats or posts. The mod doesn't change any settings, it just stops the leaking problem. If you have leaking cb350f carbs and want them fixed right the first time, contact me at fixmybike@embarqmail.com or call 717-609-6121. I can clean & rebuild most any carbs out there! You can find my ads on Harrisburg, Pa. Craigslist-search>Motorcycle Carburetor Cleaning & Rebuild Service or on eBay-fulltilt06
Thanks! Ken Zeigler]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: HELP!!!! 87 HONDA TRX 250R</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehelp87hondatrx250r_t1972.html#1972</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ryan.

I have the exact same machine. When I bought it 16 years ago, it ran like crap and went through plugs (fouled) like candy. I had problem after problem with it until I finally had enough, I redid the engine to a 295cc and bought a brand spankin' new Keihen 38mm carb. That has been the best investment ever because I had no more carb issues after that. Of course, you still have to get the jetting right no matter what carb you have on it. I would say the carb you put on it is no better than the one you took off. It's funny...about a year ago, one of my sleeve skirts broke off and messed things up a little. But I had been racing that 295 kit for about 8 years with only 1 new piston and 1 re-ring in that whole time. I hope this helped you out. 
By the way, I'm a trained motorsports technician who rebuilds carbs every day. Dirt bikes, atv's, street bikes, scooters, etc. You can find me on the Harrisburg, Pa. Craigslist site under Motorcycle Carburetor Cleaning & Rebuild Service or "google" search Motorcycle Carburetor Rebuild and my listing will come up. Ken Zeigler]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Running tail light not working??? HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/runningtaillightnotw_t1971.html#1971</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So i realized last night when i went on a night ride that the running light on my 1970 cb350 twin was not working.  I don't think it ever worked.  It lights up bright when i hit my brakes, and also when i turn the key to the "park" position.  Is this a wiring problem? light bulb problem? or do these models just don't have a running light? :? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Best manual for rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/bestmanualforrebuild_t1970.html#1970</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, Im new to the forum. I plan on rebuilding a sl350 and a cb350 engine and would like opinions on the best manual to buy for this purpose. If anyone knows of a good on line site to take you through the rebuild I would also appreciate it. Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fuel lines</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refuellines_t1969.html#1969</link>
	<description><![CDATA[There may be a possibility that the gas cap is not venting properly.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda ST70 &quot;White Dax&quot;</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/minibikes_f17/rehondast70whitedax_t1968.html#1968</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi there,

I believe these seats are available replica from vietnam on ebay. All other parts can be found on the www.cmsnl.com I think :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>HELP!!!! 87 HONDA TRX 250R</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/help87hondatrx250r_t1967.html#1967</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I need some help. I recently acquired a bit of a frankenstein machine. this machine has a 87 trx 250r motor in it. when i got the machine I had to have a new sleeve and piston installed because the bottom ear of the sleeve broke and the cylinder wall was scorched. We did all that and then it was trying to figure out the carburator issue I ended up getting a used 250r carb and put it in the machine but it still will not run right. it idles fine but as soon aS you hit half throttle it bogs out it will come right back to idle and be fine just can't get any power out of the machine. it has a fmf pipe and an aftermarket airbox. We have put different main jets in it from 130-180, (it calls for a 158 in the FMF site). and suprisingly those made absolutely no change at all. One would think you would have to see some kind of change from those extreme jet changes but we can't find one. I am asking this forum because I have run out of thoughts of my own and can't figure out what is wrong. HELP PLEASE. :( ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1973 Honda CB 350 carb re-build kits</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1973hondacb350carb_t1966.html#1966</link>
	<description><![CDATA[For anyone interested, I finally got the correct carb re-build kit for a 1973 Honda CB350G. It is a Keyster
 KH-1200.
I had the carbs sonic cleaned, and with the re-build (with the correct parts) the bike now runs great!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 CL 350- No compression Left Side</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cl350-nocompress_t1965.html#1965</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I was riding in march to my sister's house on a highway. About a half-mile before my exit, i noticed i was losing power. I tried to give it gas and i kept losing power. I downshifted and continued to lose power. Downshifting down to 2nd gear on the ramp, I cut the engine. 
 
I walked the bike to the nearest parking lot (thankfully, not far). When i got there, I noticed oil all over the back of the bike, on the wheel, the engine, the chain, etc. I decided to load it up and take it to a family friend who works oncars/bikes. He looked at it and said there is no compression on the left side. He reccomended to take it to a shop b/c he doesn't have time to rebuild the engine. I called a honda bike dealership and they seemed uninterested in working on it.
 
I want to call up other shops but I am also toying with the idea of rebuilding it myself. Do you think that would be biting off more than I can chew? 

I am not a mechenic by profession. I have the Clymer manual which has helped thus far. Many friends have told me to scrap it and buy another bike, but I really have grown fond of this one. Any advice????
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 SL350 Clutch adjustment</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970sl350clutchadjus_t1964.html#1964</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1970 SL350 and I am having a hard time getting the clutch adjusted properly. I cannot seem to get the clutch to completely disengage when pulling in the clutch lever. I get either a slight creep or the engine bogs down and kills. I have followed the instructions in the manuels but they are somewhat vague especially about the clutch adjustment screw and how to do that properly. I have replaced the cable, which seemed to match the old one just fine. I did disassemble the the clutch mechanism when I replaced the cable so maybe I put something back together improperly but the creep is very slight and I'm not seeing the problem and it is driving me crazy. Help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CJ360T parts list</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cj360tpartslist_t1963.html#1963</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi there! I'm owning an old CJ360T that needs some restauration but I don't have the parts lists. This bike was sold originally in Belgium, now I live in Spain and this model was never sold in Spain, so at the garage they don't have any reference of it. Does anybody know where to find a parts list of my motorbike?

Thanks a lot

Joan]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: SL, XL, XR forum</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newforumrequests_f11/resl xl xrforum_t1962.html#1962</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Dean,

I've created the SL, XL, XR forum for you  :lol: 

You can start a topic on the  right now!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73 CB350 3d kei hin carbs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/73cb3503dkeihincarbs_t1961.html#1961</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I want to use new 28 mm carbs, maybe mikuni's can anyone recomment a new carburetor that will fit and work well, and where can I get them. 8) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>SL, XL, XR forum</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newforumrequests_f11/sl xl xrforum_t1960.html#1960</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How about a SL - XL - XR forum for the collectors of these bikes.
Dean]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1975 honda xl 125 parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/re1975hondaxl125part_t1959.html#1959</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hate to say but watch Ebay there are a bunch of NOS parts on there.
Dean]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: US designators for Honda XL 250 Motosport</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/reusdesignatorsforho_t1958.html#1958</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Order for the K1 or K2 they are the same 
Dean]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: clutch wont engage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reclutchwontengage_t1957.html#1957</link>
	<description><![CDATA[take it back apart and make sure the shifter arm is mated to the piece in the cover. I just did mine the other day and had the same problem. I had to place it two times to get it in the correct spot.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 350 non start + Alternator cover + kickstart</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re350nonstartalterna_t1956.html#1956</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Dave, the alternator is a wet type on these models, its fine. I'd say you need to clean or replace your points and check you timing. Fairly easy to do. Let me know if you need references.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: how to set float height?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowtosetfloatheigh_t1955.html#1955</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This site has some great info for setuping up a carb and float. Goodluck.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/15050635/Honda-CB-CL-SL350-Carb-Data-and-General-Info

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350firingpro_t1954.html#1954</link>
	<description><![CDATA[sounds like you may a timing issue.Have you checked it? Its pretty easy. I've never touched a bike until a few weeks ago and I got mine timed up just by reading a some instructions online.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>colores</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/colores_t1953.html#1953</link>
	<description><![CDATA[me gustara sable Los codigos de colores de la CB 650, en especial el negro Que Se venda en EEUU]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cb 350 firing problems????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cb350firingprobl_t1952.html#1952</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi one and all,

I bought a 70 cb350 and cant get it running on both cylinders, and on top of that the bike isnt charging the battery. Ive check the stator and it checks out fine.Ive never been able to get 14 volts out of it, even with a new fire power battery in it.

Now rebuilt the carbs, put new points on, and new condenser. I have good spark on both cylinders. but its always the right cylinder that stops working but if I pull the left carb off and start it it will run on the right cylinder.  I'm wondering if the charging system problem is part of the problem and should be addressed first or?  just really looking for some help as I'm really stumped on this thing.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 Honda CB 350 carb re-build kits</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1973hondacb350carbre_t1951.html#1951</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I bought the bike new (in Canada) and have maintained it myself. The carbs are Keihin 722A - LB4 (left) and KKY (right). The Clymer service/repair handbook is not bad but the exploded view is not of the correct Carb. Also the carb float height height spec is wrong - should be 26 mm not 19. My main problem is getting a rebuild kit. Can anyone confirm the correct Keyster number is KH-1120? And, does anyone have experience with this carb?  This or any Keyster product?  Re-jetting (mine have 70 and 115 installed) ?  Common problems? Suggestions? Is that little black nylon plug in the pilot jet hole really supposed to be there - blocking the fuel???
It runs well and has low mileage.  Also has a new ignition system, cam chain, timing OK, etc... The only thing wrong with the performance is it has no power above 4000 to 6000 RPM (depending on the gear it's in)
I think it has to be carb trouble.
Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CB350 Swingarm Collars Needed</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cb350swingarmc_t1950.html#1950</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Scott,
I am not sure which part you are looking for, but I would like to try to help. What exactly is the swingarm collar. Is that what the part is called?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73 cb500-4 tire size</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/73cb500-4tiresize_t1949.html#1949</link>
	<description><![CDATA[  whats the biggest tire I can put on the back without modifing the bike 
except for removing the chain guard?????]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 CB350 Swingarm Collars Needed</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1969cb350swingarmcol_t1948.html#1948</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am working on a 1969 Honda CB 350 restoration project and can not find any replacement collars for the swingarm.  I have new bushings but also need the collars.  I have tried all of the typical sources, such as David Silver Spares, Ohio Cafe Racers, etc. but can't find anything.  Does anybody have a source they can direct me to?

Thanks,
 ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1975 CB750 F or K?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/1975cb750fork_t1947.html#1947</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How can I tell whether my just-purchased bike is an F or K model? Nothing in the VIN tells me.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 CB350 Swingarm Collars Needed</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1969cb350swingarmcol_t1946.html#1946</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey all, I am in the early stages of a 1969 CB350 resto project, but can't find any replacement swingarm collars.  I have tried all of the typical places like David Silver Spares, Bike Bandit, etc...  Can anyone tell me where I might find these parts or do I need to have them custom machined.

Thanks,

Scott]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: how to set float height?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowtosetfloatheigh_t1945.html#1945</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am assuming that you don't have a shop manual. It's hard to describe the float setting procedure without pictures. Try looking at this site. There is some info on overflowing carbs and setting float height. This site also has a ton of other great info. Good luck.
http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view?back=http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&va=motorcycle+fuel+petcock&fr=yfp-t-701-s&w=680&h=1027&imgurl=www.dansmc.com/cvcarb2.jpg&rurl=http://www.dansmc.com/carbs.htm&size=39k&name=cvcarb2 jpg&p=motorcycle fuel petcock&oid=beabad18c6e6bc5e&fr2=&no=11&tt=609&sigr=10veage0i&sigi=10qfm1n8i&sigb=136gr3l35]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 350 Twin Choke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71350twinchoke_t1944.html#1944</link>
	<description><![CDATA[open is the opposite of closed/choke. so it should run good open, just like it is. Choke it when it's cold, if the weather is warm you may find you won't need it]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 350 Twin Choke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71350twinchoke_t1943.html#1943</link>
	<description><![CDATA[open is the opposite of closed/choke. so it should run good open, just like it is. Choke it when it's cold, if the weather is warm you may find you won't need it]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>how to set float height?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/howtosetfloatheight_t1942.html#1942</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone, got my first CB350 '72 and first thing i did was buy carb rebuild kits. had bad gas, ran good and then i tried syncing the carbs. figured I use 'doing it by ear' method since they're only 2 carbs and cylinders. (by the way, i never heard of this, i guess i invented that method just from working on other engines). so when i bench synced them the bike ran almost perfect, it wasn't hitting all the way under 3 grand. can't get it to accelerate ever since i tried tweaking it. Next problem is my carbs are overflowing w/ the petcock set to ON.

Please let me know your advice, thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: bike races at idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebikeracesatidle_t1941.html#1941</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Loosen up those idle screws, if that doesnt help, im not too sure.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Gas cap troubles HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/gascaptroubleshelp_t1940.html#1940</link>
	<description><![CDATA[MY gas cap doesnt want to breathe correctly.  MY bike stalls due to lack of gas to the carbs from the gas tank not being able to vent through the gas cap.  Is there any good way to fix this without buying a new cap?  Like something i can do to the cap i have to fix it.  I'm not sure how these things work.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>19 inch wheel on 1970 CB350???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/19inchwheelon1970cb3_t1939.html#1939</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Wondering if this is a bad idea or not....

I need a new wheel for my 1970 CB350, and I can potentially get a good deal on a nice condition 19" wheel from a cl350.  I was wondering if it will it and if anyone has even done this.  Also, would it make the bike look weird??

Thanks!!  :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 SL 350 ko   exhaust assembly question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970sl350koexhaustas_t1938.html#1938</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hey guys...  newbie here

I picked up a basket case SL350 and Im in the process of re-assembling it.  Im trying to figure where the sheet metal collar in this photo.  anyone know?  I don't see it in any of the parts break downs but it had the same soot all over it as the muffler and clamp...  it also has writing on one end saying "to pipe"

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>bike races at idle</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/bikeracesatidle_t1937.html#1937</link>
	<description><![CDATA[1971 CB350 Keihin CV carbs. Start the bike, choke closed, bike starts and idles fine. Once warm, open the choke, the RPMs go up to about 5000. If I close the choke, the RPMs go down slowly and the bike soon stalls. The carbs have been taken apart, inspected and cleaned. All jets and the diaphram look great. Anybody got any ideas for me? Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>jet size </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/jetsize_t1936.html#1936</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ok , I have a 1972 cb350k4 and I am wondering what jet sizes it should have. I have downloaded the manual for the bike and it tells me the jets should be #60 primary and 115 secondary.  The bike has 105 secondaries and the dealership says they never made or they cant get 115s, can anyone give me any guidance?

Thank you]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda 125 Possible original test bike from honda?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/honda125possibleorig_t1935.html#1935</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I was given a Honda dirt bike single seat. It is in good shape. Looks old has 125 stamped on side of engine... the vin starts T-T along with numbers. It has a racing number on the tank. the tank is shaped odd but original. I write  in this forum in hope for guidance from another who may know where I can look to see what I really have. My neighbor is an older man and quickly thinks I have a test bike from Honda. I can not find a photo of this bike at all on this site or internet surfing. If any one can help direct me in collecting more info. I would appreciate it. I will put photos up soon on sites to see what comes of it.


                      Thanks Paul]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Non-bliniking Turn Signal.....?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/renon-blinikingturns_t1934.html#1934</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a CB 900 C that also has a problem with the blinkers. I had to replace the handle bars with an aftermarket part. The old left hand blinker/light assembly had a wiring clamp that also had a dimple that fit neatly into a matching hole the OEM part. I filed the dinple off because I noticed that some previous owner must have tighted down on the assebly and cracked it. I have noticed that if I loosen the screws holding the assembly to the bars, the blinkers work. If I tighten, then they stop working. I can't seem to get a good fix for this problem

Any ideas out there?

Also, I'm interested ti know if this model ever had competition parts to replace the road legal stuff that's on there now.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>hi from serbia</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hifromserbia_t1933.html#1933</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So, im new here but i have a cb360 from 1975, and i hope I will get good time sharing here with other honda classic fans.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1975 honda xl 125 parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1975hondaxl125parts_t1932.html#1932</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i am new to this site i have recently aquired a 1975 honda xl 125 as a restoration project.my dad is a time served honda mechanic and together we plan 2 restore the bike 2 show quality.it is just a shame that certain missing parts as halted our wofk.i would really apreciate your help in locating them.heres a list.
leather seat
exhaust
front and rear mudguards
clutch an brake lever
all indicators 
complte backlight
mirrors
air filter an battery cover side panels
if any one can get hold of any of these i would greatly appreciate thankyou.
drop me an email trezza21@yahoo.co.uk]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>websites for older bike parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/websitesforolderbike_t1931.html#1931</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a 1980 cb400t ... i am thinking of rebuilding ... does anyone know of any online websites where i can get parts ? .. such as .. foot pegs, brake levers .. stuff like that ? 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Converting &apos;69 CB350 to disk brakes</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reconverting69cb350t_t1930.html#1930</link>
	<description><![CDATA[a cb360 forks and wheel bolted right up to my '72 cb350.  oddly enough, i used the 350's original drum break wheel and not the 360's disk- it was completely interchangeable with the disk without any modifications what so ever- gotta love old hondas.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>350 non start + Alternator cover + kickstart</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/350nonstartalternato_t1929.html#1929</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
i cannot get my SL350 to start.It sparks ok but just spits back through the carbs , no hint of firing. I pulled off the alternator cover to check the timing and it was full of oil - is it supposed to be or has the seal failed?
Also the kick start only engages whe the bike is upright, wont engaage when it is on the side stand.
Lots of helpful advice required !

Thanks in advance
Dave]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Newbie </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newbie_t1928.html#1928</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all,

I am currently rebuilding a cb350 from the ground up. I have some experience wrenching but obviously not enough because I am stuck! My problem is I took the jug and cylinder head to a machine shop to bore and grind the valves. I hadn't separated the two parts but guys at the shop dissembled it for me and lost parts. I have figured everything out except where the rubber insert go. I have a manual that says to put them over the knock pins (dowel) on the rear outside cylinder studs. That doesn't seem to make sense. I have looked at several diagrams and can't make sense of it. Also how many knock pins should I have, I only have 6. Thanks for any input.

Gilles

 ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>New member with CD 175A incline twin</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newmemberwithcd175ai_t1927.html#1927</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi to all
recently bought a 1968 175A in metallic grey colour.Looking to tidy the bike up including new paint.Does anyone know the paint ref. code or possibly a close colour match,say from a car paint code
Cheers Steve]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 Honda cb350 parts for sale</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1970hondacb350partsf_t1926.html#1926</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello, i have a lot of parts for a 1970cb 350. I have just about everything from seat to 2 engines. If interested or want some pics let me know. I need to sell these parts because im moving. 

call or email

m_a_k265@hotmail.com
608-567-4460]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Converting &apos;69 CB350 to disk brakes</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/converting69cb350tod_t1925.html#1925</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all, this is my first post here. I have a '69 CB350 that was lowered by the previous owner. I have undone the damage to the rear suspension, and am ready to start the front. However, at some point I wanted to change at least the front to disk brakes, and I'm thinking I should just do this all at once.

Does anyone know of a fork/wheel combination that will bolt into the stock triple clamps, be at or close to the stock ride height, and includes disk brakes? Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda CM200T</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/hondacm200t_t1924.html#1924</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anyone interested in a 1981 CM200T?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB250 K4 carbs again!!!  (useless forum engine!!!!)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb250k4carbsagainuse_t1923.html#1923</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Will people with CB250 Carb issues email me instead. This Foruum engine is absolutly useless and keeps clipping my reponses short.

harbourpe@eircom.net]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondacb250k4carbpr_t1922.html#1922</link>
	<description><![CDATA[1 of 6

1.0 Take off both carbs. Check the model. They are probably Keihin 725-A (see side of carbs). Get them cleaned if they look / are dirty. You should be able to get them ultrasonically cleaned at a larger bike shop / service centre or lawnmower agents for say �10 each. Ensure all holes are blown clear with air and are passing air through. You should easily feel air flow at all orifice openings if blown from the opposite end. You may need to seal over the opening where applying the air using small piece of rubber fuel tube or similar. Even a hand air puffer will do. Just make sure nothing is blocked solid. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondacb250k4carbpr_t1921.html#1921</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello, I have just gone through a very similar and painful experience.

This forum seem very limited in response space so I will post a series of 6 responses, 1 of 6, 2 of 6 etc.

You may or may not have the issues I had but if you're keen to really have it running right, which I assume you are, could I suggest doing the following. See 6 other posts. 

Best of Luck Brendan]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda TLR 200</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehondatlr200_t1920.html#1920</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1986 Tlr 200 and I need a copy of the wiring schematic.  Do you have that or know where I can find one to download?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda CL350 (Newbie Problems)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondacl350newbiepr_t1919.html#1919</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well your battery is dead so it will not turn over. A good battery will be 13volts so ... 

As to your original problem the float lifts and hits a valve cut off the flow of gas into the carb. If it doesn't work then you will get the situation you described and will flood the carb making it very hard to start. Rebuild the carb with either a good manual or someone helping you and charge the battery. You should be fine.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Intro and questions! </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/reintroandquestions_t1918.html#1918</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brian!

Welcome to the forum.
I'm not sure if this is helpful, but there are many CL350 on this page:
http://www.cmsnl.com/search/CL350/

Perhaps you can use the info of the parts manuals listed there ?

grtz]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1988 Honda ch250 - rear wheel locked up</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/1988hondach250-rearw_t1917.html#1917</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I found a 1988 CH250 in my friends back yard. It has been sitting for 5 years. Don't know if it runs or not but the rear wheel does not move. Suggestions on what to check or possible cause. The scooters panels are all in excellent condition and seems to be in excellent all around shape. It only has 8500 miles on it. Worth fixing up? It was free!  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Intro and questions! </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/introandquestions_t1916.html#1916</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello. quick intro, been into bikes since I was 18 (33) now. Always rode vintage old school set ups. Decided to try something new and bought a Duc SC1000, turned out to be junk... So sold it went bikeless for a while and now into a cool old school Honda.

 So just bought this CL350 Cafe set up. I have done quite a bit of work so far, new charging system, fixed the fuel leaks ( pics up soon I cant post pics from work...). Wired some new lights tidyed up some wiring and just kinda spent some time finishing the look. I now have been trying to get her running right. Things are looking ok minus the carb synch, which probably will be done by a friend whos got the touch.... The one issue I seem to be having is, on occasion with kick starting. Every few times I kick, it seems it is way to hard to actually kick and tends to not turn over. Almost feels like the kick is on a mashed gear. I let the kick back up and try again and it flows free and fires the motor. Any idea what may be causing this? This is my first Honda, so I am not too familiar with their inner workings, trying to figure out if this is a huige deal or something minor.

Also anyone know where online I may be able to locate the schematics for the bike online? Or manual?


TIA

Brian ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1915.html#1915</link>
	<description><![CDATA[OK, i took the starter apart, cleaned it etc. got the battery good and charged and now it is strong enough to turn the engine over. But i still have the problem that when i hit the button the starter spins freely. So do i have a starter clutch problem?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1914.html#1914</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,   I'm still working through my carb problems. I’m just waiting now on replacement choke flaps as I found cracks and some small parts missing from mine. I’m sure now its float height. Read on.......

I have unearthed more information that may be of use to others. As would seem the case the CB250 and 350 K series went through several models of carb.

I found a very well detailed service manual on the CB350. Unfortunately I can't find a date or a publisher reference in the pages I have as it’s only an extract on the carbs section. However the data given looks very well researched and I think worth reproducing. A lot better than the Haynes Manual this simply states 19mm for the 250 / 350 for all years from 69 onwards. Nice work lads, you must have had a nice sideline going there in carbs kits. What a disgrace to publish that without stipulating or at least hinting to the varying float heights that must have been well known at the time. This must have caused endless issues for unsuspecting and not so experienced home mechanics (me for one!). 

Extract from Manual (A better one)...

CARBURETORS. Two Keihin CV carburetors are used on all models except
SL 350 Kl and SL 350 K2 units which are equipped with two Keihin sliding valve type PW 24 carburetors. Basic specifications of carburetors installed on early CL and CB models are different from later CL and CB models. Due to changes in camshaft design, it was necessary to change jet sizes on some models to provide more uniform performance. Refer to the following standard carburetor specifications

CB 350 and CL 350 Models (Fig. HN9-2) Engine #E.1OOOOO1 to E-1045164
Identification mark (IM) 350-A

Primary mainjet (15) #60
Secondary mainjet (11) #115
Slow jet (14) #38
Pilot air screw (8) turns out, 3/4
Float level (A—Fig. HN9-1) . . . . 19mm(3/4 inch)

CB 350 and CL 350 Models (Fig. HN9-2) Engine #E.1O45165 to E-1065278
Identification mark (IM) .. 3-B and 3-C
Primary mainjet (15) #70
Secondary mainjet (11) #110
Slow jet (14) #35
Pilot air screw, turns out, 1
Float level (A—Fig. HN9-1) ... .21mm (13/16 inch)

CB 350 and CL 350 Models (Fig. HN9-2) Engine #E-1065279 and up
Identification mark (IM) 3-D
Primary mainjet (15) #70
Secondary mainjet (11) #105
Slow jet (14) #35
Pilot air screw, turns out, 3/4 
Float level (A—Fig. HN12-1) .. .26mm (11/32 inch)

(Fig. HN9-2)
Identification mark (IM) 722A and 726A
Primary mainjet (15) #68
Secondary mainjet (11) #105
Slow jet (14) #35
Pilot air screw, turns out, l+1/8
Float level (A—Fig. HN9-1) . . . . 26mm (11/32 inch)

(Fig. HN9-2) equipped with an electric starter
Identification mark (IM) 728A 
Primary main jet (15) #70 
Secondary main jet (11) #100 
Slow jet (14) #35 
Pilot air screw, turns out 1+1/8
Float level (A—Fig. HN9-1) 26mm (1+1/32 inch)

END OF EXTRACT...

Curiously the manual doesn’t explain the last three carb types Vs engine numbers???

The same scenario may well apply to the CB250 but I don't have this level information (yet). I did however get some data on the 250 carbs from a very helpful dealer that had had a Honda Carb manual printed in Japan in 1972.

The information is not directly from the manual but sent to me by email in relation to my issue with my CB250K2.

CB250 carb type 250A float height 21mm
CB250 K2+3 type 2D float height 26mm
CB250 K4 type 725A float height 25mm

This data suggests only lists 3 types of Keihin CV carb model for the 250 which may fit the picture given the number of CB350s produced Vs the 250 especially for the US market. However a previous post mentioned a 725B?? so maybe there’s more?

I would guess there is plenty more information to be had out there on the 250 carbs. There was at least one camshaft change from Serial#: CB250E-3015230 onwards. Perhaps this also signified a carb change? It’s hard to say without definitive written data from the time. 

Another source of data I found was a Honda Service manual for the CB/CL250 /CB/Cl350 from 1968 which gives a float height of 21 +/- 0.5 mm for the 250 and 19 +/- 0.5 mm for the 350 

Since they are writing for 1968 I am assuming here they mean the 250 / 350 K0 and thus the 250A & 350A Carbs. 

(Note: God only knows why Honda / Keihin did not hold onto the "capacity" prefixes on the carb models i.e. make it 250A,B,C,D etc.
I assume the 2-D and 3-D was meant to signify "2"50 / "3"50 but where did 722A 725A come from???)

Anyhow thanks to Janos and the others for giving me the inspiration to go looking for more data and please post anything you have on the 250 carbs to fill in that picture a bit more.

Janos, I was exaggerating slightly! I wasn’t really 20 years trying to solve it. It didn't run quite right ~ 1990 when I rebuilt it and the float height was probably one of the main issues. I lost interest after a lot of tinkering and only got interested in the bike again last year after in had been in storage for years. I did often think about why it had bested me at the time though goodly number of time over the years. Either way I'll know soon what the issues was /is when (if!) I solve this once and for all!



]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1971 Honda CB500</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1971hondacb500_t1912.html#1912</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just bought a 1971 Honda CB500 for a summer project. 

I would like to make some modifications but am having a hard time finding parts for that year bike. Does anyone know if the 500 or 550 from different years have the same fitting parts. Namely a 4 into 1 exhaust and standard flat stock seat.

I know this is the case with CB750s from 69-78 or so.

Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: What fuel do you use</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/rewhatfueldoyouuse_t1911.html#1911</link>
	<description><![CDATA[the higher the octane the better, shell do a 99 octane unleaded, supposed to be fit for any leaded vehicle, my bikes (and car) love it.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: top end noise and tuning</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/retopendnoiseandtuni_t1910.html#1910</link>
	<description><![CDATA[my 400 used to booog if the carbs were in correctly balanced or running to rich, when you roll the throttle on hard from a low rpm, you just flood the engine, and it then has to try and ignite all the excess fuel, sounds an impossible answer, however if you remember that when your traveling for the engine to whizz up, you rear wheel needs to go at the same rate, not easy with a 450lb of bike and rider!, so, basicly the crank is locked into position, until it has caught up. 

if any of that makes sense.

but balance your carbs! gunson make a fantastic carbtune kit, and more accurate than a dial gauge. I had over 105mph out of my 400 just by well balanced carbs.(not something i want to do too often)]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1909.html#1909</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Dex, I'm glad the jet thing worked out for you.sorry to hear You've traded the cb250, but the cx500 is a great bike I hope you have fun with it..I'm laying my eyes on one too but it's hard to find a CX in good condition here.Very reliable bike, I hope YOu made a good deal.   
Anyways,I rode my bike a few times since then and it's doing great but when it's warm then it runs rich at small throttle and the idle goes up and down.
I might check the foat height again that could be the cause. I had one of my float breaking down once causing these symptoms. Also my left plug is black.
Float heights:I am sure the 26mm is the right one. The 19mm is for the square type float used earlier by Honda.
 
It's interesting to experience that several cb250K-s have these 5000-6000 problems.
Like I wrote before the CB350 is working perfect without any messing around.
And altough it's the same bike the two have totally different characteristics.
The 350 pulls with torque evenly from 3000 to redline but does not have any kick at a certain rpm.
The 250 is also good from 3000 but goes a bit flat until about 6000 it really kicks hard. 
My theory is:
The 250 was designed from the 350.(Smaller bore and that's it)
Almost Every other  thing stayed the same, incuding the carb size which is probably too big for the 250 to deal with, and cannot produce a similar type of performance. (similar but less of course)
I might be wrong though.

Brendan, I was struggling with my carb problem from 2008 going crazy but not compared to you dealing with this 20 years ago.
I can imagine what you gone through.
I have also tried everything I could think of.
Carb kits are useful but didn't solve the problem.
I do not have any experience about ultrasonic cleaning but if they seemed to be clean I rather try fixing the jets o rings first.

Let me know what happened.


Have you tried without air filters?
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondacb250k4carbpr_t1908.html#1908</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Check the jetting and that someone didn't put huge jets in it. Also the slide needles.

Main Jets should be in the range of #105 to 120. I'd say the 110 is about right for your year.
Pilot jets should be #40
Slide needles should be 3rd groove from the top.

Note that if you don't have the stock airbox hence individual filters, you will always have the mid range stumble. Multis like to breathe from a plenum.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: 1972 CB750 Four</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/re1972cb750four_t1907.html#1907</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It's the button to disable the TS buzzer. A momentary switch which must be held in if you want to use it.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>honda c50 , c70</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/hondac50 c70_t1906.html#1906</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi all, im after a early frame for a c50,c70, must be rust free, thanks in advance , also after a fuel tank for a nc50 express, thanks again
paul]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1905.html#1905</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
The Clymer book states 19mm but I agree with Yanos. This is too high and it overflows. 26mm seems about correct.

Hope this helps


]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1904.html#1904</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I checked and they are both 725A.

I have purchased 2 x Keyster overhaul kits.

I am thinkng of getting the carbs ultrasonically cleaned also.

I will let you know how I get on.

Can anyone advise further about float heights.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Enduro tyre sizes for CB400F</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/endurotyresizesforcb_t1903.html#1903</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi! Will any of the following enduro tyres sizes fit a CB400F?

Rear: 
140/80-18
120/90-18
110/100-18

Front:
110/100-18]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t1902.html#1902</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I think I got a good pair that came off a set Keihin carbs on a CB 350. They're attached to the slide and needle jet. If you're interested I'll sell them for $20 each plus shipping.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1901.html#1901</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just came across this post. This is manna from heaven!! There are other suffers too? I thought I was alone!

I am 20 years on and off with the exact same issue with a CB250 K2.

I am so sick of this problem with the bike. I feel like throwing it off a cliff sometimes.

The bike was put into a shed in the 1990s because of it. I recently had it restored from the ground up and the "restorer" has not cured the issue depsite several requests to do it as part of the deal. That's another story.

What I tried at the time (1990s). New coils, points, jets, diaphrams, cleaned tank. I always suspected the carbs but could never see anything wrong.

I will check out what model of Carb I have on the bike and follows up on the hints. Thanks to all the fellow sufferers for the hints and tips and more so for the renewed faith that there is a solution. 








]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Honda cb 350 four 1974 - Color</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/rehondacb350four1974_t1900.html#1900</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Carlo,

Would these links be of any help?


]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Honda cb 350 four 1974 - Color</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/hondacb350four1974-c_t1899.html#1899</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Is this possible that I cannotfind anywhere a colour code (and the producer) for my beloved 1974's Honda cb350 four SILVER?
Anybody could help me? :cry: ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>1969 CB350 stops running</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1969cb350stopsrunnin_t1898.html#1898</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ok looking for some advice before I break something.  Over the last month I have replaced the following: New battery, new plugs (burning clean looks like white ash color), timing set and rechecked, starts and idles good. I went ahead and registered it today. Then went on my first ride, every time I get 2 to 3 miles or so from the house running 50 mph steady for 1 to 1.5 miles it starts to load up and struggle. If I slow down it clears up for a bit then gets worse till it stops running. It has always restarted and made it back home. Idling it will rev hard and higher then I like spinning it but once underway for a few miles it struggles over 6k.

I have tried venting the tank and this doesn't make a difference 

Should I look next a carbs or points again?

Also checked the compression with an old Snap-on compression gauge.

Left side 90-95 right side 100-105, that is if I did this right.

frustrated in North Carolina]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>cb 250 g5</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb250g5_t1897.html#1897</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anyone know if its possible to fit cb360 barrels and pistons onto a cb250g5. I'm on max oversize on the 250, and can get hold of 360 barrels and pistons.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: 71 350 Twin Choke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71350twinchoke_t1896.html#1896</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ hey man if u didint figure it out ill look at my cb tomorrow and let u know ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1895.html#1895</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi

After pulling the main jet out twice and refitting, on the second occasion I put it back together and it works properly :)

I agree it must have been the 'o' ring not sealing. It is not 100% but it is certainly 95% better now so I am happy.

Having done this and got it working well, I was out for a ride and saw a nice 1980 CX500 yesterday afternoon. I ended up buying it and trading my CB250 K4. I was sorry to see the K4 go but the CX is also a bit different and still old but only 30 years this time!

Can I thank you for your help as knowing what you did to fix your bike pushed me forward on the right path.

Many thanks again.

Dex




]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>1972 500 four k1, lots of questions and advice needed.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/1972500fourk1 lotsof_t1894.html#1894</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi, ive just brought the bike my dad owned when he was 18 to 30 back. its sat for 19 years. its bill smiths dunstall honda 500/4 he used to win the 1973 isle of mann tt. ive restored all the pait work to its origional dunstall race colours. since my dad had it the blue printed engine was replaced with a 550 lump. ive managed to get it running but the carbs wont sync, there heavily pitted and i cant find any where to get them. it also needs a new set of clocks but would like to get origionals. if any 1 can tell me where i might find some parts i would be very grateful. the bike is beautiful it has the big fiberglass tank, dropped bars and a welded fronf forks wich gives it about a 30 degree turning circle. lol i will load some pics up very soon . thanks guys and girls. ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Yet another Canuck...(honda C201)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/reyetanothercanuckho_t1893.html#1893</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi I have also just got myself a c201 I think this was intoduced in 1967, the only difference between the c201 and the the c200 is the c201 has a ovh cam the c200 is ohv. 
Hope this helps Clockman]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1892.html#1892</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The Jet should go in far enough about 3mmm without the additional o-ring. Maybe that's your problem anyway.It might not be pushed in extensively, or the pipe under it is not in place. 
Officially it is called emulsion tube. This is where air is pre-mixing with fuel before going up.
My jets go in tight but after the o_ring is through it's relatively loose thatswhy I think it was not sealing. It probably sealed fuel but not the vacuum pressure.
To help the jets in place you can use drop of WD40 it won't hurt 'em.
Bend the jet holder metal thing a little bit so the float bowl will keep it tightly in when reassembling.

It is possible that the right size o-ring should seal enough without putting anything under, but this way you will find out the problem cause.
I have a friend of mine using some kind of thread lock at the jets.
Maybe he 's right but I'm not sure it stands against gasoline.

Good Luck
     ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1891.html#1891</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi

Thanks, I'll play with the 'O' rings over the weekend to try to get a better seal. 

When I put the main (105 jet) in. I was supprised that the jet only just managed to push up far enough into the carb for the 'o' ring to just about cover the end of the carb hole. I was expecting it to possibly go up futher.

So to repeat what you said, I put another 'o' ring between the 105 jet and the other tube that the needle drops into above the 105 jet. Sorry I did not know its name for this!

I am just a little concerned that if I put another 'o' ring between the two items then I'll not be able to push the 105 jet and 'o' ring high enough into the hole to get the 'o' ring on the 105 jet to seal. Perhaps I need to push harder.

Regards
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1890.html#1890</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I agree, I don't want to disturb my neighbours either.I usually have time from about 4pm to 5pm, but I have to go almost out of town to do a real testride. A road with no traffic is the place I let go the horses.

I got timed out today writing a long one as you did and I forgot to save it before posting. :x 

As for the carb problem, I'm almost sure it's the jets.
Altough they are new and have new o rings I think they don't seal enough.
Here's what I did: I've put another o ring UNDER the needle(big105) jet,between the jet and the jet holder pipe. the same size as on it.
That's when it worked. It ran a little bit rich when really warmed up, but went great.
As for the small one you can't put any additional o ring under it so the big jet is a bit higher but it's ok.
when putting on the carb bowl I first put the screws that are at the back of the carb closer to the big jet and tightened them then the front two.
After testride
For proof I took the o ring out to be sure of the cause, but guess what:
It didn't get as bad as was before but it was lean on those rpm's.
So that worked for me,all I need is some testing, which will be next week I think because, weather turned cold.
I still don't understand why my 350 is running great with the normal carbs.

I got this idea from another forum subject:
http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rightcylinderrunsrou_t1607.html

I hope this works for You too!!!!
Plese inform me what happened.
Good luck and
Safe riding]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>brake discs for honda cb1100r 1982?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/buyersguide_f9/brakediscsforhondacb_t1889.html#1889</link>
	<description><![CDATA[any ideas where to find originals or if discs from another model will fit?]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1888.html#1888</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi

Just a short one today.

I had a look at the carbs and they are 725A.

Under the 725A I think it says KD 7 but not sure about the 7 as very difficult to see the marking :)

By the way, I only start the bike at the weekends as I leave early for work and get back late at night. It is quite noisy riding it through my estate at night. I do not want to upset anyone!

regards



]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1887.html#1887</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I had my response disappear once, I copy the whole thing before I send it since then.
It does time out.
I think the float level at 19mm is wrong. If you set this value it should overflow.
I know that's what the manual says (Clymer) but it's wrong,of course if you have the same carb as I do, with the round float.
The correct level is 26mm as it is for the 350 also.
Maybe that causes your idling problem,but I have similar idling with my original carbs.(725B)
By the way the 725A carbs that I purchased, before seem to be better working on the bike. Starting and Idling is much better. You can smell from the exhaust.(not so choking).

The disturbing thing about the 5000-6000 problem is that its usually cruising speed, so its very hard and annoying to keep it over 6000 or under 5000 which is slow. Not mentsioning accelerating.

But I forgot the most important I wanted to tell you:

I think I know how to fix our problem!!!!!( if it's the same).
I had an hour or so this afternoon and tried something new which seems to work!!
A can't tell you now,because I tried it with the original carbs and I changed two things so I'm not sure of the success.
And I don't want to lead You to do something wrong.
 
I had only time for 1 test ride Put them on, and guess what.
No stalling,and no struggling at those rpms.
The bike runs like crazy!!!!
It did run a bit rich but this carb has bigger jets in them.
If the weather is good tomorrow afternoon(forecast say rain and ice)  :( I'll do the same thing to the other carbs and see what happens.
Will inform You as soon as possible, and hope it works for you too.

]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Electrical</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/electrical_t1886.html#1886</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know how to bypass the kill switch on a 1973 Honda cb350g? Is that even possible, Im trying to finish up my first rebuild and the cb just wont turn over. Timing is on, points look good, so-on. My electric starter assembly was damaged in transport, so I tried 'hot-wiring' and may have done more damage? Also my battery has a bad cell but is fully charged, should be enough to at least start the moto up? I dont know.
Thanks 
nate]]></description>
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	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1885.html#1885</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi

Just typed a long response and it dissapeared when I went to publish/add. I think it timed out.

Anyway, a little shorter this time.

1. I will try raising the carb hoses up and let you know the results as soon as possible.
2. I set my float hight to 19-20mm which I thought was correct according to my manual but I will re-check.
3. I changed the fuel hoses as the others were very perished. Unfortunately I can not go back to the old ones to see if it helps as I through them away!
4. The new ones have a bigger diameter hole (I think 7.2mm) basically because that all that Halfords shop had. This might affect the fuel pressure, also as you mentioned the length. I could make them a little shorter.
5. I cleaned the Petcock and fuel filter although it was not dirty. Perhaps I should have replaced the gause aaq this might help the fuel flow.
6. The fuel hoses are titely connected with screw based clips 
7. The bike usually starts on about the 3rd kick when cold and 1st time when warm.
8. It does idle when warm but about every 30 seconds it sounds as though it is going to die but then manages to pull through an keep going about 4 out of every 5 times. 
9. The only other thing is that in 5th it does gradually loose speed/rpm when above the 6000 rpm. This especially becomes a problem when it gets into or close to the 5-6000rpm.

I'm going to add now before I'm timed out :)
]]></description>
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	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1884.html#1884</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The smoke you saw when you stopped is coming from the crankcase breather hose that is also hanged down between the frame and the engine.
It has nothing to do with the carb hoses.
Raising up the end of the hoses had an effect of running a bit rich especially at cruising speed but the 5-6000 problem goes away.
That is interesting symptom because this should not have any effect on the carburation. Normally the hoses have nothing but air in them.
Maybe the pressure rises the fuel level?
Otherwise it brings up a theory of the float level being a problem.
I've tried to experiment with the fuel level before but it only had effect on the idle and overflowing if set toot high.
I removed the inner part of the overflow pipe on one my spare float bowl and connected a see thru hose that showed me the float level.
The proper level is about where the screw head of the carb bowl meets 
the bowl. Thats about 1.5 mm below the gasket. Measured at the front part of the carb because it's a bit tilted forward.
Of course there is some capillarity in the hose causing a bit higher level but thats ok.
This level is about the same if you set the float to the factory 26mm.


I tried today afternoon raising the needle putting a washer under it but didn't change anything.
I installed two transparent fuel filters between the fuel lines to check proper fuel flowing, and guess what: IT got worse!
It died flat at 4500rpm!!!
I thought: this could not be possible that fuel filter has effect on this.
I pulled over and removed the filters and it got back like it was before!

Question:
Did you change your fuel hoses?
Did you have your petcock cleaned?
Are your fuel lines tightly connected?

I've read at one of the forums that the fuel lines length and air leaks can affect carburetors performance.
Did you look at the carb type?
Does your bike starts easy?
idles fine?

regards

  
 ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1883.html#1883</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You are correct I ment a 1mm jet under the Jet needle. However it did not seem to help but did make it richer

I have not changed the diaphrams and slides as they are quite expensive. The diaphrams do look a little stretched though over pictures I've seen of new ones.

I'm also not running stock exhausts but I don't know what mine are! Seen some simular ones on old british bikes.

The new Jet sizes are 105 and 70 which is identical to what came out.

Regarding the gaskets, yes, O rings, float bowl gasket and also the inlet manifold rubber or gasket just in case there was an air leak between the carb and engine which I was not detecting.

I will try your theory on the overflow hoses on the bottom of the float bowl. Unfortunately I can not try this until next weekend. Strange you should mention this because when I last rode the bike, when I stopped I noticed a small amout of smoke coming from where the overflow hoses were going between the frame. 

]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1882.html#1882</link>
	<description><![CDATA[To answer your question my carbs were not cleaned profesionally but i don't know what you mean exactly by that.
I know that you can get (not here) carb dips that remove any remaining stuff and clogging from the carb but I am almost sure that I cleaned it well  several times. After that I went through spray carb cleaner wich I have.  Otherwise the carbs that work perfect on the other bike, does not on this one. Altough the 350 usues a different carb type(722A) it looks like and the size is exatly the same as the 250.THe difference is maybe only the pilot air holes at the throttle valve.
The 250 has 725B type.
At first I have tried the 722A.
After that  purchased a used complete pair of 725A type wich has 2 holes at the throttle valve instead of 3.
They are on it right now.     
Then bought a bunch of carbs and parts with a few slides and diaphrams an floats. This package has two Y2C type carb body which is a third type, I think this was on the first models but not sure.
I might put them together to try.They are seem to be the exact same as the others.
I spent a lot of money on these parts besides new carb kits and floats.
What type do you have?

What did you exactly mean by putting a 1mm jet under the float needle?
Did you mean the jet needle?
You can only put a very thin washer because you're not able to put the clip in.
I might try this tough.

Yes I Changed the slides and diaphrams all over but no effort.

I'm not running on the stock mufflers but I don't think they should have so much effect on this. I still have the stock ones, altough rusted through. I use Dunstall Megaphones now.
The 350 is using universal muffler too with no problems

We both agree that its running lean at those 5000-6000 rpms.
But don't you think it's interesting that if the air filter is on, it should run richer then without filter, by the fact that it's harder for air to get through?!!

That gives me a new theory.
When the air filter is on it causes the vacuum pressure to increase sooner then supposed to be.
The CV carbs are designed as for  the vacuum  raising the  slide. No matter how much you open the throttle, the slide will only open as much as the vacuum increases.
That is why they are better then the slide type carbs.
I think the slide is raising to soon, but  the vacuum is not enough to bring  the fuel up.
Thats why it's starving.
And maybe thats why my intake noise is so loud.
 
What's causing this?
What can we do?
Stronger spring?
Heavier slide?
Raising the neddle?
Jets?

By the way what jet sizes do you use?
I have about 10 different sizes($$$$$)
Changed to larger ones but same problem, and run rich on low and high rpm.
My experience was 98/70 is the best(without air filter of course)
You said you changed the gaskets?
You mean O rings and float bowl gasket?
Maybe pressure rising in the float bowl, and doesn't have enogh ventillation? 
One more you should try:
This is a stupid theory, I discovered accidentally:
If you have your overflow hoses on the bottom of the float bowl, and long enough to reach to about as high as the fuel tank than raise them both high(You can stuff them between the seat and the tank if you like) while riding. Now try to to rev it to 5000-6000.
I'll won't tell you what I experienced so tell me when you done it.
Explanation?

safe riding
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1881.html#1881</link>
	<description><![CDATA[With ref to your second message:- Mine is mainly the right hand cylinder. If the right was as good as the left I could probably accept it. 
BTW I swapped over the slides/diaphram and Needles. I think there was a small improvement however at some point I must try this again as it is not clear to me how much of an improvement it was if any?

A couple of questions for you:-
1. Have you had your carbs professionally cleaned? 
2. Do you have the standard exhaust on your bike?
3. Have you changed the diaphrams in the carb?

Good luck
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1880.html#1880</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I think the problem first came about when I replaced the Jets and carb gaskets. I did not however replace the diaphrams and slides

When I got the bike a few months ago it was running very rich and it  would not rev above 7000! This problem has now been fixed and once I'm past the 6000 it will rev into the red. 

Anyway, list of where I am up to.

Changed and adjusted the points,
Replaced the condensers.
Re-done the timing
New air filters
fuel tank cleaned
Carb pulled apart and put back together a few times
Swapped over the Plug Caps

My right cylinder seemed to be running lean. I heard that putting a 1mm jet under the float needle helped in this situation, This is correct however, I still had my 5000-6000prm problem!

None of the above seemed to change anything!

I have not yet had time to run it without air filters, however, before purchasing the new Air filters, I rode the bike without the metal covers over the filters and there was about a 60-70% improvement in the problem.

I to wondered if the problem was electrical. The HT leads on mine seem to go straight into the coil. This surprised me as I thought the HT lead would join to some sort of connector on the coil.

I ran each cylinder in turn and earthed the other plug to watch the quality of the spark through the rev range and both sides were ok. (Of course I don't know if it makes any difference under load)

I was thinking of getting some second hand carbs but you said that you replaced the carbs and still had the same problem? In which case is it the carbs at all.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1879.html#1879</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Are You absolutely sure it's only the right cylinder? Mine tricked me, I thought it seemed to be the left but later I noticed that both cylinders are missing but not at the same time.
Today as the weather got better continued experimenting.
I was beginning to think that it's an electrical problem so I changed the coils and condensers with the 350-s. Didn't work.
I checked the ignition with timing light but it's good.
No more ideas for now.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resubjecthondacb250k_t1878.html#1878</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi!
It's weird but I have the same exact problem with my cb250 k4!!!
I am going crazy about it! 
I've tried everything as I could think of finding the cause, but I couldn't.
Let's see:
When I bought the bike I totally rebuilt the engine. It was great  but I noticed a   little stalling at about 5000-6000. 
It also had some small electrical problem fixed(fuse went out because of starter cable short circuited by drive chain)

So I tried to start with a carb rebuild and that's when it got worse.(symptom like yours)

-changed and adjusted the points.
- valves
- tried different jets
- new battery
- put back the old parts in the carb: problem still present!!!!! 
- bought other carbs: same thing!!!!
- new air cleaner
- fuel tank cleaned
- carb fuel level adjusted(tried different levels too)
- experimented with changing different parts in the carburetor:nothing changed
The interesting thing is it's running lean because i turn the choke on it works but only at that particular rpm.

The only thing that worked for me is removing the stock air filters.
It give's her wings. You should try too. If it works for you then we are surely dealing with the same problem.
I used sport filters and they also worked but I don!t like them because I don't believe they are 100% effective and are also loud, wich I don't like either.
The stalling problem at 5000 is gone but the power is still a bit flat at this rpm, and the kick is coming at 6000.
Other thing noticed is at 5000-6000 the intake noise is really loud and sharp sound and spitting some gas out of the carbs which is a bit unusual. 
I don't know what's causing these problems, I am not an amateur mechanic.I've put 4 of these engines together I know them well.

I also have a CB350(same bike but bigger bore) which I put together from pieces without any experimenting with carbs or jets.Everything stock, filters, jet sizes etc.
It's running perfect from the first kick.No stalling no power loss or missing.
The power is coming continuisly smooth from 3000 to redline, no need to turn it over 6000 for passing.
No intake noise at all.
I Know it's larger,but only 75cm3 wich is not a reason for a big difference.
Please try without air cleaner and let me know, but be careful with the engine not sucking in anything you don't want to.

regards

Janos]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hello Everyone</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/helloeveryone_t1877.html#1877</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all,

I've made a non-commercial gaming website for motorbike owners and would like to tell the members of this board about it.

But before i do so, id like to know if members are allowed to post links here.

I believe my site is based on a unique idea and will be positively accepted by the community of this board.

Thanks in advance.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda CL350 (Newbie Problems)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehondacl350newbiepr_t1876.html#1876</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I think maybe the problem was that the carbs were not in all the way.  There is a ridge on each one and that was no in the rubber sleeve going into the engine.  Does anyone have any tips to get the carbs in all the way?  There is not much room to work and I cant get much leverage.

Thanks again, and if you have any wisdom, I would appreciate it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda CL350 (Newbie Problems)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/hondacl350newbieprob_t1875.html#1875</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi everyone.  I know nothing about bikes but wanted to learn so I bought a sweet looking CL350 (70).  I love the bike and it is in great condition (it even used to start) :lol: 

When I brought it home and left the petcock on, the entire gas tank leaked out in the span of about 30 minutes.  So, I checked where it was leaking - the over flow bowl of the left carb.  I took that apart (read taht the floats might need adjusting) and put it together.  Bike didnt start after that.  First hte carbs were dry, now im getting gas (the overflow screw proves it) but it wont turn over with teh kick starter.  What am i doing wrong?  

Also, now the starter wont turn.  At first there was a strong click, but now its not making much noise at all (I tried starting it aobut 15 times during my trial and error, and it got worse and worse).  Checked the voltage on the battery and its about 11 volts, so i assume that should be good unless im not getting enough current?

I guess my question is if someone could please walk me step by step or atleast give major topics as to how to diagnose the system.  What should I do about the starter?  What about the fact that I cant get it going with teh kick start?

Im hoping someone here is able to tell me that im clearly and idiot and here is where I went wrong because I would love to be able to ride this bike!

Thanks a lot!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Subject: Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/subjecthondacb250k4c_t1874.html#1874</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Can anyone help? I have purchased a CB250K4 1972. It runs well up to about 5000 rpm struggles to get to 6000rpm but eventually pulls through and its then fine up to the red line. Taking each plug cap off in turn seems to suggest most of the problem of getting from 5000rpm to 6000 rpm is on the right hand cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas thankyou
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda cb250 k4 carb problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondacb250k4carbprob_t1873.html#1873</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
Can anyone help? I have purchased a CB250K4 1972. It runs well up to about 5000 rpm struggles to get to 6000rpm but eventually pulls through and its then fine up to the red line. Taking each plug cap off in turn seems to suggest most of the problem of getting from 5000rmp to 6000 rpm is on the right hand cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas thankyou]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1971 CB350 Scrambler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/re1971cb350scrambler_t1872.html#1872</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I found a pretty cool website that has the  in pdf  :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 cb 350 for parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72cb350forparts_t1871.html#1871</link>
	<description><![CDATA[@Edward:

Can you post a list of items that you have :?: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 cb 350 for parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72cb350forparts_t1870.html#1870</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hello,
Im looking for the exhaust heat shield, do you have it?  Thanks,]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1971 CB350 Scrambler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/1971cb350scrambler_t1869.html#1869</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Everybody,
i just got a cb350.  Im looking for a good manual, but i read some bad reviews of the clymer on amazon.  Anybody know of a good one/where to get it?  thanks !!
jay ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Need a few pointers</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/needafewpointers_t1868.html#1868</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I was wondering if I can rest assured that most parts are interchangeable on a 1969 CL350 and a CB350. I am restoring a 1969 CL and I could use any input or tips that anyone has to offer. I can't seem to locate a gasket and seal kit for a '69 CL, but there are a few out there for CBs of the same vintage. Any really good part sources? (US, please)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: The bike pops out of first gear. I got to take out the motor and split the case to fix?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rethebikepopsoutoffi_t1867.html#1867</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yes...you are more than likely going to have to pull the engine,pull the heads and cylinders off, split the cases, and see what's going on in there. While being very careful that everything goes back in the way it came out. Usually, it is the engagement dogs on the gears that get worn. Could also be your shift drum. You really have to open up the bottom end and see. If you are anywhere near Harrisburg, Pa., I am a certified motorcycle technician with a small shop, and I'd be glad to fix it for you. Ken]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>clutch wont engage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/clutchwontengage_t1866.html#1866</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i put a new cable on the 72 cb350 i just acquired and now it wont engage wen i pull the the clutch lever in ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>fuel lines</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/fuellines_t1865.html#1865</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi guys, 
New to the board, but I've been looking around for a good place to ask questions and find info on my 72 honda cb350 and this forum was by far the most helpful I found.

I have a silly question I'm sure but does the actual diameter of the fuel lines to the carbs make any difference?

For some reason my carbs do not seem to be taking gas in. I swapped the old black fuel lines for clear ones to see if this was actually happening. 

The bike starts fine and runs on the left cyclinder, but neither carb seems to be pulling gas.

Does anyone have any experience with this problem?

Thanks for your help in advance!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda S-110 wiring diagram desperately needed!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondas-110wiringdi_t1864.html#1864</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all,

The diagram is added .

Kudos to Scott!  :wink: 


Also, be sure to check out the other ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 350 Twin Choke</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71350twinchoke_t1863.html#1863</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just picked a 71 350 Twin and I have a few questions.  First,  I love the bike,  it is fun to ride and look at.  It is red in color and in decent shape.

1. When starting what position is the choke to be in? When I keep it closed and start the bike it starts but will stall if not on the throttle.

2. What position is the choke supposed to be in?  when starting? and also when riding?  It has "open" written on it and points down.

The bike runs well with the choke "open" but sputters with it closed and runs rough.

Thanks in advance,  i am looking forward to restoring this bike fully.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda CN250 Indetification</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondacn250indetifica_t1862.html#1862</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I there
Iam having  problem with a motor of a Honda CN250.
I have an off road buggy that is equipped with Honda CN250 motor and I need to replace some parts from the motor but i dont know witch year or model of the byke that the motor belongs.
The problem is that i need tho choose a insulator component of the carburator(Product#: 16210KM1010) but i am not shure that it fits in the motor i have.
Maybe that part in particular is equal in every version of the CN250 trough the years and models?

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda CN250 Indetification</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondacn250indetifica_t1861.html#1861</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I there
Iam having  problem with a motor of a Honda CN250.
I have an off road buggy that is equipped with Honda CN250 motor and I need to replace some parts from the motor but i dont know witch year or model of the byke that the motor belongs.
The problem is that i need tho choose a insulator component of the carburator(Product#: 16210KM1010) but i am not shure that it fits in the motor i have.
Maybe that part in particular is equal in every version of the CN250 trough the years and models?

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda S-110 wiring diagram desperately needed!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondas-110wiringdi_t1860.html#1860</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I don't seem to be able to upload to the forum Broeslie... Can I send the PDF file to you? Maybe we could get it put on the CMS site under the wiring diagrams page!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda S-110 wiring diagram desperately needed!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondas-110wiringdi_t1859.html#1859</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Good idea, will do! I'll upload it from home later tonight. Good to have!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>engine dying</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/enginedying_t1858.html#1858</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi is their any one who can help,i have a CD125 1982,IT NORMALLY RUNS FINE BUT THE ENGINE KEPT DYING AT JUNCTIONS,THE GARAGE WHERE IT IS MEANT TO BE GETTING FIXED HAS HAD IT FOR NEARLY 2 MONTHS HAVE SAID IT IS AN ELECTRICAL FAULT&ARE WAITING FOR A GUY FROM MANCHESTER TO COME &FIXI IT FOR FUCK SAKE I COULD HAVE WALKED IT BUY NOW,ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREAT,MANY THANKS :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>SL350 K2 Clocks</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/sl350k2clocks_t1857.html#1857</link>
	<description><![CDATA[HI
I am restoring an SL350K2 - could you tell me if the clocks are mounted to a bracket or direct to the top yolk please?
I know the K1 clocks are bracket mounted but the clocks and mount dont fit the K2 top yolk.

thanks

Dave
england]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda S-110 wiring diagram desperately needed!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondas-110wiringdi_t1856.html#1856</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Glad you finally found one somewhere.   :wink: 

Why not share it on the forum?  :idea:]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda S-110 wiring diagram desperately needed!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondas-110wiringdi_t1855.html#1855</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Broeslie, he replied saying that he didn't have one either. However, I have managed to get one from a fellow on the Netbikes forum, who kindly scanned and sent it through! It's quite different from the other small Hondas. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: seat cover</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reseatcover_t1854.html#1854</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi charlie
I got a seat cover and foam for my SL350 from excel custom forming - they have a web site and are on ebay, quality looks very good

Regards
Dave Burn
england]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: SL 350 Frame</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/resl350frame_t1853.html#1853</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
You are correct - the frame down tubes do have a kink as described.
I was going to post a question but you may be able to help. I am restoring an SL350K2 - could you have a look at your bike and tell if the clocks are mounted to a bracket or direct to the top yolk please?

many thanks
Dave Burn]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda S-110 wiring diagram desperately needed!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondas-110wiringdi_t1852.html#1852</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I know it's been a while, but have you been successful in contacting him?

grtnx]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New here but once hello!!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renewherebutoncehell_t1851.html#1851</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi bsa_bob!

.. and welcome to the forum :)
If you need advise on buying a classic Honda, just drop your question(s) in a relevant forum. You might even get an answer :)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>New here but once hello!!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newherebutoncehello_t1850.html#1850</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am trying to buy a 750 honda in the 1970s.and have old brit bikes and street rods and Kustoms.and cushmans and one rupp roadster from the 70s. :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda S-110 wiring diagram desperately needed!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondas-110wiringdi_t1849.html#1849</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks Broeslie! I'll email him and see if he can help. Will let you know how it goes!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda S-110 wiring diagram desperately needed!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondas-110wiringdi_t1848.html#1848</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Perhaps the owner of  can help you?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda S-110 wiring diagram desperately needed!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondas-110wiringdiag_t1847.html#1847</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi everyone, this is my first time on here!  :D 

 Well, I need help if anyone can! I have a little 1973 model S-110 (with the 105cc OHV motor), and I really need a wiring diagram for it. It's an Australian model (which is where I live), and I've tried everything to get a wiring diagram here. Even Honda Australia can't help! (They did actually try, too).

 I know that sometimes diagrams from other bikes can be close, but there are specific things peculiar to this bike which complicate matters a bit.

 Can anybody help? I'd be forever grateful!

 Kind regards,

 Scott]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB200</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newforumrequests_f11/recb200_t1846.html#1846</link>
	<description><![CDATA[well It should be like that! My little cb 125 is in need of new mufflers, since they are so rare to find as parts I think the admin should crate a subforum for this little machines. 

The little cb are living story, mine has been registred in 3 different countries and now (Ihope soon ) a 4th :)

anyhow if there is anybody out there, let�s make som noise and prove our point ;)

Cheers

Vasco]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>SL 350 Frame</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/sl350frame_t1845.html#1845</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi All 

Wondering if you can tell me if the down tubes on a 72 SL (twin down tubes) have a kink about a quarter of the way down on both tubes (i am assuming to clear the exhaust headers), and is this kink symmetrical on both down tubes? Whats the best way to see if the frame is bent? 
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Only running on the left cylinder, Ignition?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reonlyrunningonthele_t1844.html#1844</link>
	<description><![CDATA[check your wires to and from the coils ,they will work loose.My bike does it all the time iam getting new connector to fix the problem.Should be under the gas tank.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 twin ingnition upgrade</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350twiningnition_t1843.html#1843</link>
	<description><![CDATA[it about 300 plus dollar but google bore tech out of Ohio they make ignition for the honda cb 350.Dynatech is suppose to introduce a new system shortly if
 not already.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1959 honda dream ce71 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1959hondadreamce71_t1842.html#1842</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi   do any of you guys know what one of these bikes is worth?   So far I really have seen only a couple of them in existence....anywhere on the internet. Could someone give me some kind of idea.....original condition. I appreciate any help or info that any of you guys can provide me with...especially some prices....i have been told some pretty crazy figures...thanks much]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>ss50 drum brake mud guard</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ss50drumbrakemudguar_t1841.html#1841</link>
	<description><![CDATA[215.00 pound for an ss50 drum brake mudguard , with slight markings...(EBAY) NOS.... WOW ! what are these bike's worth when mint?? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;71-&apos;73 CB350 Tank Decals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/re71-73cb350tankdeca_t1840.html#1840</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Good find Wayne!

Hope this still is useful to Jonathan :)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Canadian Newbie-Again</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/recanadiannewbie-aga_t1839.html#1839</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Mike and welcome to the forum!  :wink: 

I hope you'll find some useful answers here.
To get started, jump to a relevant forum and start a new thread there to discuss the bike of your liking.

Enjoy!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Canadian Newbie-Again</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/canadiannewbie-again_t1838.html#1838</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all, just joining up & have a few old Honda's including an S65,73 & 74 Honda CB750's, 73 CB350G, 73 CL350 K4 & a just aquired early 69 Honda CL350 K0. All are in various states or repair/restoration as money permits. Looking forward to helpful hints & tips from everyone. Mike]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;71-&apos;73 CB350 Tank Decals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/re71-73cb350tankdeca_t1837.html#1837</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I know this is an old post, but I found out that the stripes are painted, not decals. Found out when I sanded my tank down and they were under the old paint.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: rear wheel</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/rerearwheel_t1836.html#1836</link>
	<description><![CDATA[

How about this strategy:

First, locate your bike at 

Next, from the wheel parts fiche, identify the part number ( for example 44711333003  ),

Finally, search google for similar bikes with that number
See the 

Good luck  :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 whats the best size mikuni carb?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/recb350whatsthebests_t1835.html#1835</link>
	<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: What Bike Is This</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/rewhatbikeisthis_t1834.html#1834</link>
	<description><![CDATA[btw,

Where are its fenders and side covers?

cheers]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: What Bike Is This</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/rewhatbikeisthis_t1833.html#1833</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It's a stunning bike :)

My best guess is that it's a CR93.
Anyone else ?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>What Bike Is This</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/whatbikeisthis_t1832.html#1832</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey im new here, i've wanted to get info bikes for a while so i thought why not today
i was wondering if anyone could possibly tell me what bike this is & if anyone had some info on it, it would be VERY much appreciated 

First time i saw it i fell in love with it

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 cb 350 for parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72cb350forparts_t1831.html#1831</link>
	<description><![CDATA[im looking for a throttle tube, RH control and a few other goodies. still up for parts?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>newbie on site looking for help cx 500 eurosport</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newbieonsitelookingf_t1830.html#1830</link>
	<description><![CDATA[does any one know how I can make my forks longer or another set of honda forks that will fit the cx 500 eurosport fron wheel and twin discs?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>rear wheel</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/rearwheel_t1829.html#1829</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am an 78 year old geezer that has a 1974 cb350f,  I need to know what rear wheels are inter changeable for this year bike.  This is my first project bike and so far it is coming along fine.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CA95 petcock screws</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/ca95petcockscrews_t1828.html#1828</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Need the three screws holding the petcock to tank....they are 5X.9X25..
I had to cut off the heads on my ca95 to get the petcock off and need new screws...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>seat cover</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/seatcover_t1827.html#1827</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Need a seat cover for `72 cl350....has anyone bought one?  From where?  Are you pleased with the quality?

Thanks,
Charlie in NJ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>The bike pops out of first gear. I got to take out the motor and split the case to fix?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/thebikepopsoutoffirs_t1826.html#1826</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have no clue is why I'm asking. Anybody had this problem?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How to shorten a 1970 Honda cb350 front end</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowtoshortena1970h_t1825.html#1825</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The springs are on the out side. I add a two inchs spacer to the inside and cut one and a half inch off the springs. works fine]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Crank Bolt Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recrankboltremoval_t1824.html#1824</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Glad it worked it out anyways :)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Crank Bolt Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recrankboltremoval_t1823.html#1823</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Alright, well apparently no one ever uses this forum, but I found out how to remove it anyway.  Just use an impact wrench. 8) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: seat pans</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reseatpans_t1822.html#1822</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Don't see any pans, but all kinds of seats on EBay from $29.95 up...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CA95 engine serial number</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/ca95engineserialnumb_t1821.html#1821</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know how to tell the year of a CA95 engine by the serial number?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: new guy, 73 honda cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renewguy 73hondacb35_t1820.html#1820</link>
	<description><![CDATA[also, the pictures were taken in arkansas about 2 months ago. we live in austin texas right now. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: new guy, 73 honda cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renewguy 73hondacb35_t1819.html#1819</link>
	<description><![CDATA[yea, im gonna change the bars soon. once i have some money. we restore vdubs, they would all be inside if we had room for them. ive got a daily 66 bug and were restoring a 69 fasty for my wife. the tail light is on the fender now instead of the side mount. tanks from an older harley. its not the best lookin bike out there but i built it with the parts i had. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 rubber /pedal crank boot</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ress50rubberpedalcra_t1818.html#1818</link>
	<description><![CDATA[thank's for that link,look's like a useful sight i will give them a go. :lol: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 rubber /pedal crank boot</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ress50rubberpedalcra_t1817.html#1817</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Before starting out with inner tubes, this might be an option too:



It's a pattern boot.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb500 four oil seal leak</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb500fouroilsealle_t1816.html#1816</link>
	<description><![CDATA[yep you can pry it ok ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How to shorten a 1970 Honda cb350 front end</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowtoshortena1970h_t1815.html#1815</link>
	<description><![CDATA[measure and cut the internal springs.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Crank Bolt Removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/crankboltremoval_t1814.html#1814</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anyone know how to remove the crank bolt on a 1972 350?  I need to remove the generator to fix my starter clutch  :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t1813.html#1813</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The junkyards would be your best bet!  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1812.html#1812</link>
	<description><![CDATA[BUMP!! CMON GUYSSS :cry:  :cry:  :cry:  :cry: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 rubber /pedal crank boot</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ress50rubberpedalcra_t1811.html#1811</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ok,, several more emails no reply!! i give up!! im gonna make one out of some bike innertube's,,,. i let you know how i get on.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1974 CB 750 Chains</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re1974cb750chains_t1810.html#1810</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Odd to hear that the Tsubaki chains got stretched out. Always thought that these are high quality.

No experience with RK though. Anyone else ?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: First Bike</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/refirstbike_t1809.html#1809</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ditto on the oil, I had a 360T and it was a screamer. I worked at a Honda dealer and had our mechanic port and polish my head. Installed some Mullholland rear shocks, the thing handled excellent. The 360 engine has what are known an plain bearings for the cam. So make sure you have clean oil in it and your filter screen is not blocked or you will fry your cam. I also put an Alphabet header on it, sounded sweet. Have fun with it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: new guy, 73 honda cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renewguy 73hondacb35_t1808.html#1808</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The tank looks decent, I see your into VWs. I own a clean daily driver 64 Bug. That Gia is worth some money especially if its not rusted out, might want to get it out of the weather. Same for the Bus, are you up in Canada? Those handle bars are well...interesting. Is that tail light off a trailer? You can buy a tail light on CMSNL And a new seat.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Tammy from MI, with a CL 450</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/retammyfrommi withac_t1807.html#1807</link>
	<description><![CDATA[That would involve welding new mounnts. I'm sorry but I can't remember if CL450 pegs are mounted to the frame like my 750. Is your bike stock? From your post it sounds like someone put on rear sets? The 450 in stock form has a comfortable neutral riding position. You say you want to move the controls forward? Did someone put on pull back handlebars? Perhaps a bit more discription would help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1974 CB 750 Chains</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re1974cb750chains_t1806.html#1806</link>
	<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1974 CB 750 Chains</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1974cb750chains_t1805.html#1805</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello, I own a 74 CB 750 that I found three years ago and  bought from the original owner. It is stock with just over 20,900 miles. In June of 06 I installed new sprockets and a Tsubaki 530 Gamma series chain. Yesterday I discovered that the chain is badly strecthed with only 6000 miles on it. Due to the vintage of this bike I don't race it and the riding I've done is mostly commuting and weekends. I've been reading about X-ring chains from RK. Has anyone here installed one? One of the problems with O-ring chains is they are wider and you can run into clearence problems on the cases that require shims. Not something I want get into. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb350 whats the best size mikuni carb?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/cb350whatsthebestsiz_t1804.html#1804</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hey I have a 1973 cb350.  MY mechanic told me my carbs are finished so I'm going to buy a new set of mikuni's.  My old carbs were 32mm so I should just buy the same size again right?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda Dream 305 1963-69 What are the differences?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/rehondadream3051963-_t1803.html#1803</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Go to www.vintagehonda.com

Bill silver knows these bikes like the back of his hand.  You can email him directly and he will answer all your questions.  So glad I live in San Diego and he makes house calls!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 rubber /pedal crank boot</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ress50rubberpedalcra_t1802.html#1802</link>
	<description><![CDATA[cheer's for that link, pm sent! ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1801.html#1801</link>
	<description><![CDATA[BUMP! :shock:  any help??]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1800.html#1800</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi guys!

I'm new to this forum and found I have same problem  with my 72 CB350.  I was wondering how you get the crankbolt off, in order to use the rotor puller?  May seam like a stupid question, but I just don't know.  Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 rubber /pedal crank boot</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ress50rubberpedalcra_t1799.html#1799</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey,

I found another contact page for this domain. Perhaps he'll respond to .

Good luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 rubber /pedal crank boot</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ress50rubberpedalcra_t1798.html#1798</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Broeslie, yeah should of mentioned i've contacted them through that page several time's, No reply !! sent another message this morning, guess what? no reply! so,i will give it a couple of week's, then go through pay pal,perhap's they have gone on a long holiday, :lol: or gone to cut a rubber tree down :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Engine Trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350enginetrouble_t1797.html#1797</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Try checking the breather hose located at the top of your engine plate.  The breather hose connects to the top plate of your engine and is usually tucked between the lower back of the engine and the engine mounting brackets.  You may have pinched the hose during installation of the engine causing pressure to build-up in the engine while the engine is running. The build-up of high engine pressure will likely cause your engine to stall or stop running due to the pressue build-up by the possible pinched breather tube. The engine pressure has to have a way to be released.  As a test disconnect the breather tube at the top of your engine plate and start the engine feel for air pressure at the breather hole and check the hose to see if pinched or if it is restricting air flow.  If you are not getting any air flow from the breather hole after disconnecting the breather hose make sure you have installed the top plate correctly. Hope this helps.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: maintenence</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/remaintenence_t1796.html#1796</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Laura and welcome to the forum.

Why not start by listing the problems that you have ( ... with your bike ).
I bet that there are enough CB125 riders willing to help out a damsel :)

cheers!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 rubber /pedal crank boot</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ress50rubberpedalcra_t1795.html#1795</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well, there seems to be a .
Why don't you fill it in and see what happens?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>ss50 rubber /pedal crank boot</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/ss50rubberpedalcrank_t1794.html#1794</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all, looking for a rubber pedal crank  boot, found this site from an old post,i think on here;   http://50cc-spares.tripod.com/id1.html   

Do they still exist? me being me clicked buy it now with pay pal then r
realised how old the post was. Hav'nt heard any more. What do you think?

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>maintenence</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/maintenence_t1793.html#1793</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi i am lol have just joined out of curiosity&maybe in the hope of finding problems solved with my lovly bike,1982 honda cd 125-benly? not quite sure,but i can play at being the damsel in distress lol :P  :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb500 four oil seal leak</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb500fouroilsealleak_t1792.html#1792</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anyone on here know whether or not I can change the oil seal behind the drive sprocket without motor disasembly or removal ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t1791.html#1791</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I bought my replacements by buying a set a carbs that were pretty much just spare parts.  Good Luck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Engine Trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350enginetrouble_t1790.html#1790</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Had a similar problem.  Bike would run for about 5 minutes then just stop.  I had installed a new gasket seal on the gas cap.  Did it wrong and the tank was not able to get air.  This resulted in a vacume in the tank not letting gas flow.  I would open and close the fuel cap and the bike would start right up.  Drove me nuts for about a week till I figured it out.  Good Luck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 500K2  Main Stand</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb500k2mainstand_t1789.html#1789</link>
	<description><![CDATA[you might be missing the tube affair that goes through the stand and is clamped in those pinch bolts,,if that part hasnt been cut of the frame to lighten it.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Plug Fouling Honda CL72</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/replugfoulinghondacl_t1788.html#1788</link>
	<description><![CDATA[an old thread i know but what ever model you have always check the resistance in the spark plug caps!!some of these are ancient and the resistance goes way high causing a weaker spark that will foul your plugs ,even though the bike seems to run ok leading people to dissemble carbies for nothing chasing richness!!!,ngk still make most of these ,check the web site ,i bought four new ones for my 500/4 at about 8 dollars each,,if yours are old replace them anyway,most are specified at 5000ohms.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rereplacementdiaphra_t1787.html#1787</link>
	<description><![CDATA[To start -- i don't have any... but what symptoms are you experiencing that make you think you need to change them? I was thinking I needed the same repair -- my carbs are clean but the bike stalls at idle in gear. By the way, I have a CB400a. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>chain oiler adjustment</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/chainoileradjustment_t1786.html#1786</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Is there a chain oiler adjustment on a 1972 cb750f? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>seat pans</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/seatpans_t1785.html#1785</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am brand new to the forum but have long been a fan of the 350 twins. Currently I own a CL350 and a CB350 along with about 4 junk bikes for parts. All these bikes have bad seat pans, rusty or cracked. Does anyone make reproduction seat pans for the 350 twins?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Idle Adjustment Screws</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reidleadjustmentscre_t1784.html#1784</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi,do you know the history of the bike? im guessing one was lost and a similar was found at a junk yard or something?if its got the same thread and the taper can cut the air /fuel off fully itll have to do,,dont go by how many turns in or out ,go by ear ..good luck!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda Dream 305 1963-69 What are the differences?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/rehondadream3051963-_t1783.html#1783</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Maybe a dump question: but isn't there a frame serial from which you can derive the exact model code.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Looking for Honda SS50 fuel tank</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/relookingforhondass5_t1782.html#1782</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Bas!

Well since you already went through the partsfiche, you might query google for the partnumbers that you need. You might drill some other sources. But on the other hand, all the partscompanies are fishing at the same pool, so if one hasn't got it, then the other may have it neither.

Well good luck anyways!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 CL 450</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/72cl450_t1781.html#1781</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just purchased headers so I could put the lower "street Pipes" on my bike. My bike is a 72 CL 450 Model and the bike the pipes came from was a 72 CB 450. We discovered that the foot pags are now in the way.  All the pictures of this bike show the pipes above the foot pegs but , mine seem to be above the pipes, and are slightly in the way. was there a difference in the frame of these two bikes? How do I fix this problem?  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Rear wheel interchangeability for &apos;80 CB650</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rearwheelinterchange_t1780.html#1780</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,

I'm building a bobber from a 1980 CB650 Custom, and I want to replace the original wheels with the spoke style.  Can anyone tell me what other spoke wheels will fit on this bike from various years/models of other CB's?  For example, would a rear wheel from a 1979 CB750 work on my bike?

Thanks very much!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Looking for Honda SS50 fuel tank</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/relookingforhondass5_t1779.html#1779</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yes, thanks. I have been through that fiche many times and got about 90% of the parts I need. Now only those annoying hard to find parts remain :)

Aside of the fuel tank I still need a frame, rear fork, correct carb., transmission counter shaft, winkers...


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1972 Honda CL450</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/re1972hondacl450_t1778.html#1778</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Tammy,

In what way would it differ from a street bike ? Are winkers etc. missing ?

I'd simply start by making a list of the parts which are required for a legal street bike. Next, I'd choose the streetbike that resembles your's the most and take it from there. 

regards!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Looking for Honda SS50 fuel tank</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/relookingforhondass5_t1777.html#1777</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Bas,

I wasn't able to locate any green fuel tanks. However, there are plenty of other parts for the 

Did you already check that page ?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Idle Adjustment Screws</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/idleadjustmentscrews_t1776.html#1776</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I took both of my carbs apart to soak and I noticed that the idle adjustment screws where not the same from one carb to the other. I think the screw that came out of the right carb was the larger/longer one and the left was shorter. They both fit perfectly into their appropriate place but I didnt think there would be any reason for them to be different from the factory. 

Does anyone shed any light into this conundrum? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda ss50 pedals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondass50pedals_t1775.html#1775</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Singa.eu has some replicas as well. But they come by on ebay now and then (like at this moment  :D )]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda ss50</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondass50_t1774.html#1774</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Cl70 too I think.
Keep in mind there are quite a few ss50 variants, having some similarities, but also differences (e.g. SS50e, SS50m, SS50z)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda ss50 Motor Oil</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehondass50motoroil_t1773.html#1773</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, I'm not really sure what should be correct, but you can visit API.org website and possibly find more info on this subject.

As I try to stick to the old stuff I use Castrol Classic 20w50 oil, it has the same specs as the original stuff.

see:
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9014107&contentId=7027099#7094382
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Buy/Sell/Trade forum area suggestion</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/anyotherideas_f12/rebuyselltradeforuma_t1772.html#1772</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am familiar with the previous - unsuccessful - attempt, but isn't it possible to make private buy/sell possible in similar vein as Amazon does? So, also offer second hand parts between the same search results as the new stuff? And possibly private new old stock parts if CMS can't supply them?

Would make finding parts even more convenient and centralized at one site...
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Looking for Honda SS50 fuel tank</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/relookingforhondass5_t1771.html#1771</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anyone? Other parts welcome as well, rear fork, carb., winkers, frame, transmission counter shaft...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Pitch Circle Diameter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repitchcirclediamete_t1770.html#1770</link>
	<description><![CDATA[if you ring your local wheel builder they may know]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB400 Four binding fork</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb400fourbindingfork_t1769.html#1769</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just finished rebuild of 1977 f2. Front end is harsh and forks only move under braking. Even large bumps do not compress the forks. They seem to bind. The forks are new and I am using 10 - 30w Halfords fork oil. When eying them up the forks appeared to be 6mm unparallel from top to bottom. I have changed the bottom yoke which improved it slightly. Any Ideas??]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Replacement Diaphragm?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/replacementdiaphragm_t1768.html#1768</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Do they still exist? If so where can I get some? Apparently Honda discontinued them and SCI is out of stock.  :? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: WTB cb or cl 350 twin</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewtbcborcl350twin_t1767.html#1767</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks for the response but I actually just got back from NC today with my new 1970 cl350! Best of luck selling yours.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Pitch Circle Diameter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/pitchcirclediameter_t1766.html#1766</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all

Strange question I know, but could someone please advise the Pitch Circle Diameter of the Front Wheel Hub on the CB 350? 

Many thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: WTS 73 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewts73cl350_t1765.html#1765</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yeah id hate to do it but I'm a broke college student who just bought a car but I love the bike. It starts right up and I need to sell it before I have to winterize it. Its just sitting in the garage!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Help needed w/450</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rehelpneededw450_t1764.html#1764</link>
	<description><![CDATA[In case you need the OEM mufflers, then check out this page: 


Otherwise check Ebay for the CL450 pipes!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: WTS 73 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewts73cl350_t1763.html#1763</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Too bad for you that you have to sell it.  :cry: 

To me, $1100 seems to be a reasonable price.

Good luck with selling!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Yet another Canuck...(honda C201)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/yetanothercanuckhond_t1762.html#1762</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone! 
I've just picked up a C201 90cc (very much like a C200 or CD90), but I don't know what year it is. 
Can anyone tell me where to find this information? BTW, she's not very pretty yet, and seized up, but I expect to ride her next spring...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>WTS 73 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/wts73cl350_t1761.html#1761</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey guys I don't want to but I have to sell my 73 scrambler. Here's the add on craigslist.
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/1400570754.html

Let me know if you have any question and ill try and answer. Thanks guys.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: WTB cb or cl 350 twin</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewtbcborcl350twin_t1760.html#1760</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi I'm trying to sell mine if you are interested. The price is pretty negotiable. Thanks.
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/1400570754.html]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Tammy from MI, with a CL 450</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/tammyfrommi withacl4_t1759.html#1759</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just got this bike and we're trying to turn it into more of a street bike. Dose anyone know if it's possible to move the pegs and controls more forward on this bike, and where I would get the parts to do so?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Help needed w/450</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/helpneededw450_t1758.html#1758</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Do you know where I can find a set of Drag-pipes for my 72 Honda CL 450? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1972 Honda CL450</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1972hondacl450_t1757.html#1757</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Recently bought this bike. Irealized it was more like a dirt bike, but we're trying to make it into a street bike. Has anyone out there got any info on how to do this ? Or where I can get the parts to do this? Even if you could answer a few questions I may have would help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cam, cam chain, piston allignment tips?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recam camchain pisto_t1756.html#1756</link>
	<description><![CDATA[honestly my manual was in the shed and i hadnt read it before i posted. im clear on lining up the LT marker and keeping the notch on the camshaft vertical. since i cant delete posts, just wanted to let you know. 

-one question still: should the camshaft marks be vertical before or after applying tension to the chain? thanks guys.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Cam, cam chain, piston allignment tips?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cam camchain pistona_t1755.html#1755</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just tore my heads apart due to a smokey right cylinder. The smoke was backing all the way up to my top plate breather so apart it came. The top piston ring was busted and a new set is on its way. My question is: when going to re-assemble the cam sprocket and cam shaft, how do i make sure that the cam shaft (and sprocket, chain) are in the correct position in their cycle to match up right with the pistons in their cycle? i have not messed with the bottom end so i can still line up timing (LF)to give me some hint for when the exhaust arm should soon be lifting...but not precise. Any tips would be appreciated. thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Newbie from Canada</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/renewbiefromcanada_t1754.html#1754</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Quinn and welcome to the forum.

Hope that the restoration works out! Meanwhile, keep us updated with bike pics ! :)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>WTB cb or cl 350 twin</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/wtbcborcl350twin_t1753.html#1753</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am in Northern Virginia and am trying to pick up and cb350 twin or better yet a cl350 twin. Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 cb 350 for parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72cb350forparts_t1752.html#1752</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Is this bike still be parted out?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Newbie from Canada</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newbiefromcanada_t1751.html#1751</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all,

My name is Quinn, and I'm from Calgary, Alberta. My dad and I bought a 1980 CX500 Custom last year, and we were going to fix it up next summer. Hope to be chatting with you in the near future.

Cheers,

Quinn]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>69&apos; CL350 shifting problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/69cl350shiftingprobl_t1750.html#1750</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I was wondering if you could help me out with a couple of questions.  I have not had much luck posting to other forums.  My 1969 CL350 shifts fine from 1st to 2nd gear but will not go into 3rd or higher. If it does shift to 3rd if often slips out of gear. Any clue of what to diagnose my problem please? Also, could I use transmission parts from a 71' or 72' CL350 or CB350 motor? I am not sure if the parts are swappable from one years engine to the next and I don't want to buy a motor with parts I cannot use. Thanks for any info!  It is greatly appreciated.  This is my first vintage bike.  I am not much of a mechanic but willing to learn and hope to spend the next few months getting this bike dialed in.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73&apos; CB350, good as I remember?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/73cb350 goodasiremem_t1749.html#1749</link>
	<description><![CDATA[In the late 70's I had a CB350.
When I decided to get back into bikes last year I looked for something like the 350 but with more power.   Went to a dealer and everything had changed!  Sports bikes and cruisers, no standards (the closest I could find was a naked sportbike).  I ended up getting a  Triumph ST.  Recently  I was discussing the old Japanese standards and comparing them  to what is available today. My viewpoint was  that  with modern tires,  bikes like the CB350 would handle and stop as good as (if not better) than the current crop of cruisers. Several folks in the forum disagreed.  So you guys have ridden these old bikes recently -- am I full of it?

Next question: What does a CB350 in fair condition generally go for?  Now I have my "daily rider", I am considering a 2nd older bike I can tinker on and enjoy.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>new guy, 73 honda cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newguy 73hondacb350_t1748.html#1748</link>
	<description><![CDATA[been building this bike for about a year, picked it up for 100 bux with title in hand. sprayed oil in the case for about a week and everytime i did i would slowly kick the bike over a couple times. replaced the points/plugs/battery as well and the bike fired right up after sitting in a field for 10 years. painted the frame, put the curent tank on it and painted it, found the bars somewhere and cut them down, put kids dirt bike levers on it, built the seat out of 2 cut down vw bug running boards and covered it... i need to finish the wiring, make some switches for the turn signals/headlight, find some turn signals i like, new pegs, shift lever, and find some 350 side covers. lookin forward to finally getting to ride this bike. hope to learn alot while im here. heres some pix. i was going for a sortof cafe'esk style but not...









and me checking the feel of the bike, i feel big on it. im gonna replace the seat someday but for now it works.



]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Advice on &apos;70 K2 carbs? - Jetting/Tuning/Air Filters</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/readviceon70k2carbs-_t1747.html#1747</link>
	<description><![CDATA[That's good to know, I wonder why there were 105's in there then. Everything's been reassembled, had the bike running this morning but I noticed that spark is jumping through the side of one of the spark plug caps. 

The carbs are cv type. I've got the tuning process down now (forgot all about my manual) just needs some tinkering which will have to wait until I get new caps.

Before rebuilding the carbs and petcock the bike would only run with the choke closed. Now it will only run with it open, even when starting. Is that something I need to worry about or can I leave it be?

 I was also wondering if anyone knows what kind of pipes these are? I still haven't come across another cb with them. They sound alright, but they're a bit obnoxious.

<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d179/EkGripper/?action=view&current=IMG_3762.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d179/EkGripper/IMG_3762.jpg" border="0" alt="cb350"></a>

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Advice on &apos;70 K2 carbs? - Jetting/Tuning/Air Filters</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/readviceon70k2carbs-_t1746.html#1746</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Your bike should have orignally came with 115s so I dont think it should run too rich unless you are pretty far above sea level. As far as tuning the carbs are they the slide type or cv type?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter motor and horn wont work.....help?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restartermotorandhor_t1745.html#1745</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Use a test light to see if they are getting juice. If not chase the wires back to the buttons see if they are broke ( check carefully where they go into handlebars). If wires check out I would suspect the buttons are corroded. Hope that helps Good luck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 SL350 KICKSTART JAMMED PLEASE HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72sl350kickstartja_t1744.html#1744</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Your problem may be the anti rattle spring has come off the cog and jammed it up. Its a strip down job i'm afraid. If you cant get a spring i have a spare new one.
Dave 
(Sheffield England)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Transalp parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/transalpparts_t1743.html#1743</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have an 87' "Canadian" Alp that needs a pulse generator, P/N 30300-mm9-003.
This part is already obsolete so not available from dealers. This is a low mileage "cherry" bike that won't start until I find this ignition part. Help!

Dave in Vegas.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Advice on &apos;70 K2 carbs? - Jetting/Tuning/Air Filters</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/adviceon70k2carbs-je_t1742.html#1742</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone,
 
   So I'm rebuilding the carbs and the fuel petcock on my '70 K2. The kits I ordered came with 115 jets, and the ones in my carbs now are 105's. How much richer can I expect the bike to run with that increase in jet size? I'm only just getting familiar with carbs. 

    I'm not sure what to do and was looking for some advice. I plan to install the 115's and take the bike for about a 20 mile ride. I'll pull the plugs out and see how she's running. If it's running pretty rich, what can I do to compensate? I'm running stock air filters right now, if it turns out that it's running very rich, should I get a set of pods?

I don't really know how to tune the carbs once everything is put back together. Can anyone offer advice on that as well?

Any information regarding the carbs and tuning will be greatly appreciated, thanks a lot guys!

Nick]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: float adjustment</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/refloatadjustment_t1741.html#1741</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Usually the floats regulate the amount of gas available, and for richness problems, this is not what you want. You want the slide needle to go down or the main jet orifice smaller or the needle jet orifice to be smaller. 

I had a lean Kawasaki ninja and rejetted it, which included changing both jets larger and shimming the needle UP. It was then TOO rich. (blubbered with mid range hesitation). 

Hindsight speaking....I wanted to "fix it all at once" and changed everything, so I wouldn't have to keep taking it on and off. Now I would say to change one thing, put it back together, and see if it meets your expectations. If not, change something else, and check again. It is more time consuming on the taking apart/ putting back together end of things, but either way the time will be spent. 

If your slide needles are all the way down (not shimmed with washers, which is an easy fix), you may need larger slide needles.

Best of luck,
Amy from Ohio]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>starter motor and horn wont work.....help?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/startermotorandhornw_t1740.html#1740</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I finally got all the electrical hooked back up for my 68' cl350 and everything is in working order, lights, high and low beams, turn indicators, tach and speedometer, everything accept for the horn and the starter motor, neither of which do anything.....any ideas? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 Engine Trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350enginetrouble_t1739.html#1739</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Sounds like its overheating. Check to see if your running too lean that will cause overheating and make sure timing is correct.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 Engine Trouble</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350enginetrouble_t1738.html#1738</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am at my end.... My brother and I have been wrenching on this 71 350 twin for about a month now.  One engine had a bad tranny, another a bad crank.... so we finally got it all together, and when we start it up it runs beautiful... but when it heats up, conk!! dead in it's tracks.  Cool her down and purrs like a kitten, for 5 mins or so.. than clunk!!  We have checked carbs for blockage, petcock for flow, adjusted and readjusted valves, timing, and cam chain tension.. what is the deal??? :( When it locks, it locks can't even kick over....]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: What size Mikuni s?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewhatsizemikunis_t1737.html#1737</link>
	<description><![CDATA[well, upon further inspection i found one of the Keihin's had bad plug in the secondary jet and that was causing it to run to rich and constantly foul out the plug on that side.

so i guess i won't be spending the big bucks for a set of Mikuni anyway.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350F1 Cam tensioner</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/recb350f1camtensione_t1736.html#1736</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you, I am at mashwort@rochester.rr.com. Have a great day!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/reoilquestion_t1735.html#1735</link>
	<description><![CDATA[SAE 10/40 is what you need, dont use synthetic or semi synthetic, you bike isnt designed to work with it!,

my 75 400f, even my 87 vt500e uses that]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Non-bliniking Turn Signal.....?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/renon-blinikingturns_t1734.html#1734</link>
	<description><![CDATA[if you are fitting LED's it will definatly need a led compatable relay, the reason is because it uses less power than a standard bulb.  it is like fitting a low wattage bulb in a normal indicator, it will remain on!

the relay relies on a certain amount of current to be drawn so it will flash, the lesser the current the longer before it will trip the relay and flash]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Customized Starter Switch - CB550F 1976</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recustomizedstarters_t1733.html#1733</link>
	<description><![CDATA[probs need it over to the right until you have it running some, then with it reving flip the switch right over to left, so the engine doesnt die. 

sounds queer to me. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Indicators dont indicate</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/reindicatorsdontindi_t1732.html#1732</link>
	<description><![CDATA[are you using those patten indicators as opposed to originals, i had 2 patten ones on the back, and constantly tinkering and then a day or so later failing again, i hard wired and earth wires straight to the units, but didn't really work, took them off and managed to get some genuine indicators - problem cured, they need chroming but i can put up with that

hope that helps]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Trouble cylinder one CB 750 Four K1</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/retroublecylinderone_t1731.html#1731</link>
	<description><![CDATA[it will be a poor spark which is not igniting the fuel,

take your plugs out one at a time, put the lead on the end and press the starter button IMPORTANT!, have the plug threads earthed to the engine, and only hold it by the plug cap - more beneficial to you if you wear some rubber gloves, earthing a spark wont kill you - if it does then i must be super human, for the amount of times its happened to me.

if it is a week spark then you can almost guarantee that under compression it wont even be firing, take the plug cap off and check for green, if there is any green keep cutting 1/4 inch off until you see nice copper.

i did this on all my plugs and noticed a healthy difference.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: replacing carb screws</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/rereplacingcarbscrew_t1730.html#1730</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i think these are (on my 400f) a m4 thread, that or m5, i have both sizes with my carb tune set and i think its the smaller that fit these]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: clutch</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/reclutch_t1729.html#1729</link>
	<description><![CDATA[have you adjusted the clutch push rod, if the rod adjustment is lifting the clutch off, it doesnt matter how much slack there is in the cable.

my normal setup is to unscrew the adjuster, or slacken so i know it isnt connecting, then slowly screw it in so it is just touching, then unscrew about 1/4 of a turn, then lock it up, then adjust the screw adjusters, 1st on the handle bar, leaving some room each way for adjustment (i know on my old brits, if the clutch plates swell up then you need to take up all the play so the clutch will release, so its a rule of thumb for me)

next adjust the casing screw adjuster so you end up leaving about a 1mm of play at the lever end.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB400f (400 four) electrics - lighting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/cb400f400fourelectri_t1728.html#1728</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, i know i should be adding this in the cbfours page, but i cant seem to add a new topic there. anyway.

I have the most strangest thing with my headlights, the low beam setting is set to high, and high beam is set to low.

i find these to have funny electrics, as the last time this happened to me was when i took the headlight bowl off for painting, and put one of the wires back wrong, and same happened then.

when this happened last night, i played about with the wires, making sure they're all conected correctly, checked it again, and it worked a treat, popped it back, and last thing before i left the garage was to check it once more, and it reverted back to incorrect again, so one last fiddle and made no difference, so basicly gave up.

now the simple answer would be to swap the wires over in the headlight and cure it that way, but we all know a short cut like that isn't always a good way - and that there is a reason for its being.

ironicly my friends TLR200 has the same problem, but since we were going for a 3 week off roading stint, i swapped it over as a tempory job.

nothing in the diagrams shows anything to suguest it to happen, and it doesnt rightly make any sense. i have experience with electrics and build all my looms, for all my british bikes (9 in total british), with out fail or problem, yet these overly complicated japanise have me beat.

many thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB400f (400 four) electrics - lighting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/cb400f400fourelectri_t1727.html#1727</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, i know i should be adding this in the cbfours page, but i cant seem to add a new topic there. anyway.

I have the most strangest thing with my headlights, the low beam setting is set to high, and high beam is set to low.

i find these to have funny electrics, as the last time this happened to me was when i took the headlight bowl off for painting, and put one of the wires back wrong, and same happened then.

when this happened last night, i played about with the wires, making sure they're all conected correctly, checked it again, and it worked a treat, popped it back, and last thing before i left the garage was to check it once more, and it reverted back to incorrect again, so one last fiddle and made no difference, so basicly gave up.

now the simple answer would be to swap the wires over in the headlight and cure it that way, but we all know a short cut like that isn't always a good way - and that there is a reason for its being. 

ironicly my friends TLR200 has the same problem, but since we were going for a 3 week off roading stint, i swapped it over as a tempory job.

nothing in the diagrams shows anything to suguest it to happen, and it doesnt rightly make any sense. i have experience with electrics and build all my looms, for all my british bikes (9 in total british), with out fail or problem, yet these overly complicated japanise have me beat.

many thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda TLR 200</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehondatlr200_t1726.html#1726</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a workshop manual which i downloaded, there are some pages missing but i find it to be quite adequate, there are about 20 pdf files (adobe reader) so forward me your email and i can copy them to you, the quality isnt brilliant but more than satisfactory]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350F1 Cam tensioner</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/recb350f1camtensione_t1725.html#1725</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i was reading an article yesterday, about the cb400f, now i cant imagine that the engines are any different than the 350f' (apart from the obvious 50cc difference) basicly it was saying that these 30 year old bikes will now have worn springs, quite acceptable since the age and imence heat forced upon it. it does mention a way of adjusting it, i wouldnt like to try and remember the details and get it wrong, however if i can find a way of uploading information, or if you let me have your email address, i can forward it on to you.

regards

Allan]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>What size Mikuni s?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/whatsizemikunis_t1724.html#1724</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a '73 CB350G

what size Mikuni carbs will fit on the bike? 30mm, 32mm, 34mm, 36mm?

is it just a matter of jetting?

if you are not familar, measurements are here

http://www.procycle.us/carb/mikuni_dimensions.htm

and jet recommendations are welcome.

so far the only ones i have read online are

http://www.motorcycleshopper.com/articles/hondacb350/chapter4.htm

thanks in advance
Perry]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350F1 Cam tensioner</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/cb350f1camtensioner_t1723.html#1723</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello.  I am new to this site and would like to introduce myself.   My first road bike was a 76 CB400f. I found a 74 CB350f for my son as a beginner bike for small money.  Tires, carbs, new gaskets, valve job later and it is not so small money anymore. I really didn't know the following of these bikes when I bought it, I have spent more than I probably should have, but I am hooked. My son has moved on and I have slowly been restoring/improving. 
My question to all you experts out there is: I cannot get the cam chain to adjust automatically.  I have followed the instructions,  set the throttle to 1200 and loosened both nuts but it is not adjusting and remains quite noisy.  Any suggestions?  Thanks!!

Mark Ashworth
2004 Ducati ST4S
2006 HD Night Rod
1974 Honda CB350F1]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil Leak I cant figure out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilleakicantfigure_t1722.html#1722</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I should also mention is a '72 CL350]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Oil Leak I cant figure out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/oilleakicantfigureou_t1721.html#1721</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I have an oil leak that I cant seem to figure out where its coming from. I have the general location down. Its the points case. I've gone through and tightened all the screws, replaced the o rings and where I thought there might have been a crack, I epoxied it really well and then when I let it run for a few min, oil starts seeping out from that cover. I cant seem to find out where or why. Someone please help.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: gas leak from carburettors</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/regasleakfromcarbure_t1720.html#1720</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well it definitely sounds like the floats are not shutting off the fuel being delivered to the float bowl.  This could be due to stuck floats as you stated, a bad, missing, or stuck float needle, or if the floats were bent somehow the bowl could be filling up to the overflow before the needle is closed to shut off fuel delivery.  

I would start by taking the bowl cover off and making sure the float needle (under the flat part of the floats) is operating freely and makes a good seat.  Pull it out and make sure it is in good shape.  

If that's not it, I would bet on a bent float.  There's a procedure in most manuals on setting float height.  Good Luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB450K Cam Chain</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb450kcamchain_t1719.html#1719</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,
My 1973 CB450K is smoking from its right cylinder and fouling its plug with oil, so.....  I need to whip the head off and see what's going on in there.  Do I need a special tool to break and rejoin the cam chain?  Any advice on how to do this?
Thanks,
Dan]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>76 CB500T carbs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/76cb500tcarbs_t1718.html#1718</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I need a left carb for my '76 Honda CB500T. Dose anyone know where I should look to find one. The previous owner trashed one of them and the bike was just given to me and I would like to get it running again.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1978 CB400T1 Hawk</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re1978cb400t1hawk_t1717.html#1717</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ok... Found you a member. Hope he joins.
The wiki site is empty for this bike.
YOU all could fill it in. I will have to learn
the bike/400T Hawk.

here's what I found, including us, here:

http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/motorcycle-details.aspx?id=6282

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CB_series

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CB400T
Wikipedia does not have an article with this exact name. Please search for Honda CB400T in Wikipedia to check for alternative titles or spellings. 

    *  Start the Honda CB400T article, using the Article Wizard if you wish, or add a request for it.
    * Search for "Honda CB400T" in existing articles.
    * Look for pages within Wikipedia that link to this title. 

Honda CB400T
Honda CB400T - $775 (Lenexa) ... 1978 CB400T1 Hawk with 10386 original miles. CLEAR OPEN TITLE. Rebuilt carbs. New Clutch. New Paint. The bike looks good, ...
kansascity.craigslist.org/mcy/1381305266.html - Similar
DELETED BY AUTHOR

New users - Honda Forum
honda forum new users can introduce themselves here. ... 1, Steve Baldwin, 205, Re: 1978 CB400T1 Hawk Thursday, 05 February 2009. Smiley Courtney ...
www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3.html - Cached - Similar

from that... http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1978cb400t1hawk_t1321.html

I probably joined long ago... LOL! (Now, confirmed.)
Good site, cms, in some things.
I do a 175 list, and got most of my history from it.
Renewing my membership.
http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-fansite/about.php

BillSF9c (Near SF CA)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>newbie to the forum</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newbietotheforum_t1716.html#1716</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi everyone,
im buying a 76 cb360 next friday.i cant wait to get it.it does need some work,how much ill find out as soon as its home.i didnt see a cb360 section so i figured this section is the closest thing to it.thats why im posting on here.well just wanted to say hi to everyone.hope you guys wont mind me asking questions about the bike.well i guess ill talk to everyone later.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda Dream 305 1963-69 What are the differences?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/hondadream3051963-69_t1715.html#1715</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Are there any subtle variations between the years so I can put a finger on what year it is?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda Dream 305 1963-69 What are the differences?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/hondadream3051963-69_t1714.html#1714</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 305 Honda dream and can not figure out the year.  I don't have the title to tell. The Honda ID book it gives a very broad range from 1963-69.  Is there any subtle variations to look for between the years?  The frame vin is CA78-101.... and motor is CA77E-101....   Looking on the internet 1963-66 looks to have square mirrors from 1967-69 round mirrors.  Is this correct?  Any help would be great.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Early 70&apos;s cb350 2cyl into a mid 70&apos;s cb750 frame???</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/early70scb3502cylint_t1713.html#1713</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Will this work? Can I put the early 70's cb350 2cyl, into a early-mid 70's cb750 frame? if so what will it take? Who knows where I can find all this out, I know I am not the first person to try this....
I have the cb350 motor/carbs and the cb750 frame...want to make it work. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Early 70&apos;s cb350 motor into a mid 70&apos;s cb750 frame?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/early70scb350motorin_t1712.html#1712</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Will this work? Can I put the early 70's cb350 2cyl, into a early-mid 70's cb750 frame? if so what will it take? Who knows where I can find all this out, I know I am not the first person to try this....  :lol: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 Four</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/cb350four_t1711.html#1711</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I ran into some troubles, restoring my Honda C350 Four. The front Fork has this chrome cover which i want to take off, so I can chance the packing (not sure its called that) I cant seem to find how to do it anywhere, so i hope you can help me. (pic underneath)
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cd 175</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/1970cd175_t1710.html#1710</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just got this bike missing carb an needs coil. Does anyone know if the single carb is the same as one of the dual carbs that came on the cb cl models? Also any suggestions for a replacement coil this is a 6 volt system cb cl were 12 volt. Help]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 69 cd175 electrical question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/re69cd175electricalq_t1709.html#1709</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Try this website for a wiring diagram Oldmanhonda.com]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Ignition coil problems for CB160</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/reignitioncoilproble_t1708.html#1708</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I know this might sound stupid but have you checked the boot on the spark plug wire? Or the ignition timing? Had weak spark on 1 cyclinder causing it to occasionally fire changed spark plug boot an reset gap on points now runs like a scalded dog :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Starts, Motor revs and then dies</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/restarts motorrevsan_t1707.html#1707</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I think it could be the float, just give some petrol in a vessel and dive the float in the petrol.
If you see bubbles coming up you know the float is probably leaking.
Otherwise it could be that the flaot needle doesnt tight completly, in that case you could try to seat it with some griding paste.

Hope that helps,

Martin]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Starts, Motor revs and then dies</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/starts motorrevsandt_t1706.html#1706</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a CB200T (US) that had been sitting for a while. I've got it running, but when it starts it revs real high and then dies. The left carb seems to be running out of fuel. Carbs have been cleaned really good and adjusted. Could this be the float? Something else? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 75 cb400 key</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/re75cb400key_t1705.html#1705</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Dont know where your located but here in Michigan most locksmiths will make a key for ya if you bring them in the ignition.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda ss50 Motor Oil</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondass50motoroil_t1704.html#1704</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi!

I'm restoring a Honda ss50 and i wondered if you could help me finding the right motor Oil?

In the ownersmanual it says SAE 10W - 30, but as it's hardly not possible to get such Oil localy i will take a 10W - 40 as think it shoudn't matter to much.

But my question is, does anybody know about the requiered API Class or if it has to be synthetic, semi synthetic or mineral oil?
Maybe you have got good experience with some kind of oil, or with a specific oil manufacturer?

Thank you for you help!

best regards

Martin]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: new tires for an old bike</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtiresforanoldbi_t1703.html#1703</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks Ray,
I was fortunate enough to find a pair of tires, an IBC for the rear and a Shinko for the front that will do the trick. those conversions for the sizes are helpful, thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Front End Upgrades?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/frontendupgrades_t1702.html#1702</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What kind of front-suspensions has anyone put on their 350s?  I have a '70 CB350 Twin, and I've read of people using other forks / triple clamps.  What works here, what mods need to be done?  Which are the best?

I saw in a post that forks from a '96-'99 CBR600 can be used.  Has anyone done this?  How does this work with the drum brakes, etc.?

Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>How to shorten a 1970 Honda cb350 front end</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/howtoshortena1970hon_t1701.html#1701</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My freind is 5ft tall and she need to lower the bike. how do I go about shorten the front forks. It has the springs on the outside of legs. Thanks for any help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>86 nighthawk 450 charging issues</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/86nighthawk450chargi_t1700.html#1700</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 86 honda nighthawk 450 that the charging system has stopped working, it used to work fine but now the battry runs dead after a matter of time, im guessing it would probly be a wiring issue. if anyone has imformation on this type of repair or problem please let me know THANKS]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Which CB450 diagram do I use?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rewhichcb450diagramd_t1699.html#1699</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Good to hear you sorted it out. Hope that the project remains 'fun' until the end.

cheerz :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: new tires for an old bike</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtiresforanoldbi_t1698.html#1698</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The size tire I would put on is either a 100/90-19 or a 100/80-19 on the front and a 110/90-18 or 110/80-18 on the rear. 
Those are the way tires are measured now, with a combination of metric and SAE in the size desination.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>new tires for an old bike</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newtiresforanoldbike_t1697.html#1697</link>
	<description><![CDATA[does anybody know where to get new tires to replace the ones on my 68 Cl350? the front tire is a 3.00 by 19.00 and I cant find them anywhere]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fork oil and bearing grease</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reforkoilandbearingg_t1696.html#1696</link>
	<description><![CDATA[thanks for the reply edward! I recently learned that on the older model hondas the best thing to replace the fork oil with is ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). I havnt really been able to figure out how much to use though so I appreciate you giving me that information! I'm pretty sure I can use just about any high temperature grease on the bearings as well.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Which CB450 diagram do I use?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rewhichcb450diagramd_t1695.html#1695</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks. A big problem I had was the wires coming from my stator didn't match any diagram. It turns out that there was two sets of splices in stator wires. It became evident what the previous owner was like when I pulled the sprocket cover off and found a pound of RTV and wire splices. I think I have it straight now, but I still have a ton of other "previous owner" issues. It's a fun project though. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Best pipes for 2001 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/bestpipesfor2001hond_t1694.html#1694</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am looking to put after market pipes on my all stock 2001 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100.  I am new to the motorcycle world, so I don't really know any reliable name brands or styles that will match the look and sound I want.  I don't want any obnoxiously loud pipes, but louder than my stock pipes would be preferred (and not hard).  I'm also not looking for pipes to boost my horsepower, I don't drive that fast anyway.  Just want something that looks nicer and is a little louder than my stock pipes.  I really like the Vance and Hines Longshots, so a style like that would be nice but I'm open to new ideas.  Any suggestions?  Please help...

Also, when I'm looking at pipes, do I have to get pipes specifically for the Spirit or can I get pipes for the Aero, ACE, or Sabre 1100?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Which CB450 diagram do I use?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rewhichcb450diagramd_t1693.html#1693</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Douglas,

There are some CB450 wiring diagrams on this site too. Are those of any use ?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 cl350 alternator </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73cl350alternator_t1692.html#1692</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Edward!

Good to hear to the forum was of some use to you  :P 

Good luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>US designators for Honda XL 250 Motosport</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/usdesignatorsforhond_t1691.html#1691</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am trying to establish what years of manufacture the KO, K1, K2 refer to, with regard the Honda 250 XL 250? My bike is 1974 and I need to order some parts but are not sure which one to order from? Bruce]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 cb 350 for parts</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72cb350forparts_t1690.html#1690</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Im parting out my parts bike. Its a 72 cb350g. Havent tested all the electrical out yet but it has many parts to pass on to keep others going. Figured I would give true fans of 350 twins first shot before turning to E-bay. Im located in the Detroit, Michigan area to give someone an idea of what shipping prices would be.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fork oil and bearing grease</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reforkoilandbearingg_t1689.html#1689</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Clymer manual doesnt stay what type other than fork oil to answer any of your questions. The amount of fork oil according to Clymers is between 5.9 and 6.9 ounces. Wish I could be more help. Hopefully one of the more experienced Honda fans will be able to help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 cl350 alternator </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re73cl350alternator_t1688.html#1688</link>
	<description><![CDATA[After reading more of the post in the forum found answers to all my questions!!! Thanks to those who answered on the earlier post saved alot of future headaches. Guess Im to used to working on cars, ended up just needing a good battery. Now I just need to fix a leaky float.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>fork oil and bearing grease</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/forkoilandbearinggre_t1687.html#1687</link>
	<description><![CDATA[can anyone tell me what type of fork oil is used on the front shocks of a '68 cl350 and how much to use? and the same for the type of grease used to lubricate the ball bearings in the stearing collumn as well as the rear swingarm shaft? thanks!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB450 replacement coils?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb450replacementcoil_t1686.html#1686</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Does anybody know of replacement coils I can use to replace the stock ones? I have found some coils for other bikes like Harleys that have two plug wires out of one coil, but I am not sure what the increased power would do to the system. I have one dead coil and am just lookin for some spark!! Almost there! Thanks!

Dug]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Which CB450 diagram do I use?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/rewhichcb450diagramd_t1685.html#1685</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ok. I think I have it figured out. I bought a simplified wiring diagram for five bucks off ebay. I think this might solve the issues. I hope.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 350 bogging when giveing it throttle around 3k</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72350boggingwhengi_t1684.html#1684</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Clymer (might be spelled Cylmer) makes a manual for your bike. They are alright but not the best someone else posted about finding reprints of original honda manuals. I would try to get original first but if you cant find one you can get the Clymer on ebay for around $20 at bike shops they run $35.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73 cl350 alternator </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73cl350alternator_t1683.html#1683</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Any one know if they still make the tool to take the alternator off. Tried 3 jawed gear puller but not sure if Im putting pressure in the right places because it didnt move an bent the bolt I was using to get pressure on shaft.Any help would be apperciated. Also for the charging system to work does it need to have a good battery! Got bike running after sitting for 20 years. Was told everything worked when parked but if I remove jumper cables it dies out. Have an extra stator from part bike but no change, still doesnt stay running. Help!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Which CB450 diagram do I use?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/whichcb450diagramdoi_t1682.html#1682</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I really need a wiring diagram for a 1971 cb450,but there are two on this site to choose from. One for the five speed and one marked (glenns). Which one applies. My cb has been messed with so much I can't really tell which one is correct based on the wire colors. 

Also the colored diagram (five speed) shows the black/white wire running from the coils to the dimmer switch, but I think they meant the off/on/off switch. Then it runs to the neutral indicator light then to neutral switch and then grounded. If this were accurate there would be no power to the coils. What is going on here?? So confused.

Thanks for any help.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: First Bike</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/refirstbike_t1681.html#1681</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Be sure to re-jet the carbs. You can buy kits most anywhere on the internet. Make sure the tires are ok to ride on and change the oil right away.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1975 Honda CB500 questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1975hondacb500questi_t1680.html#1680</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey all, I recently bought a 1975 Honda CB"550" but found out the motor had been swapped for a 500. I don't know how to find my engine's year to order parts(which I need quite a few of)

Also, I was wondering if any of you had advice on these problems:

* First gear is a bit iffy(jumping and dumping): Possibly a bent shift fork? maybe missing some teeth on the gear itself?

* Blowing master fuses quite frequently

* Not acheiving maximum rpms.

* Broken bolt port where header bolts screws into head at the exhaust port.

* Speedo/odometer/trip counter not working.

Thanks alot for any advice, I plan on turning this hunk into a respectable scooter someday (Hopefully a bitchin cafe!!)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil Leak Between head and Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilleakbetweenhead_t1679.html#1679</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks Tom, am in process of re-assembling 1971 SL350 that was given to me (engine was rebuilt, but not assembled). The manual says use o-rings, but none with it - just tried generic ones and looks to me like there is no way this will torque down properly. Am going to follow your advice and go without them.
Thanks again
Chuck]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB500T vs CB500/4 vs. CB550 vs etc... Frame size</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/recb500tvscb5004vscb_t1678.html#1678</link>
	<description><![CDATA[as a guess the two four cylinder frames are the same ,the twin had a single down tube i think??]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 88 trx 250r clutch will not disengage when i pull lever</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/re88trx250rclutchwil_t1677.html#1677</link>
	<description><![CDATA[has it been adjusted so the slack is out of the cable?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73&apos; cb350G timing problem?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/73cb350gtimingproble_t1676.html#1676</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello,
Im desperate for some advice. So many thanks for your help.
Why wont the camshaft fit into the left/right cam covers after putting in the rockers? Its as if the cam chain is too small, but its new and the right part. Also,  the tensioner is off. 
nate the perplexed 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 SL350 KICKSTART JAMMED PLEASE HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72sl350kickstartja_t1675.html#1675</link>
	<description><![CDATA[im trying to picture what it might be ,have you tried gently rotating the kickshaft in the return direction? with the bottom end back together ,try rocking the bike back and forth in gear,it might pop back in to place maybe,,good thing it didnt happen to charleton heston in the "omega man"they escaped on a sl350!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>New guy doing up a 400n</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/newguydoingupa400n_t1674.html#1674</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all as subject says I'm a new menber to this forum. About me, I live in the big brown land downunder, Australia. I'm a menber of the Ulysses motorbike club for the over 40's, I understand it has branches in a lot of other countries. I ride another bike on club rides other than a Honda starting with a letter "H", but I'm doing up a 1980 cb400n that I will ride when conplete, so plese dont hold the other ride aganst me . I'm waiting for my new service manual to come through, but I need to know the tappet settins now. If anyone can tell me I would be very happy. I thinck 5th outlet and 4th inlet is the go but not sure. My bike is the 395cc twin cb400n. thanks in advance for any info. Alan     ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>75 cb400 key</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/75cb400key_t1673.html#1673</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hello, im new to this forum, it seems pretty informative, looking foward to helping everyone w. what i know.  my question is, i just purchased a 75 cb400four super sport. it is curently not running, to test anything i have to turn on the key, which i dont have. can i have a key made for a 75 w/o the title or is there a way to by pass it totally, im not worryed about having a key right now, thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>88 trx 250r clutch will not disengage when i pull lever</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/88trx250rclutchwilln_t1672.html#1672</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ cant shift, when i pull the clutch lever the cable moves, and the shaft going into the crankcse will move but the clutch will not disingage!!! any one know why?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 won&apos;t stay running</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/recb350wontstayrunni_t1671.html#1671</link>
	<description><![CDATA[yes you are right it won't stay running under load. i mess around with bike more before i seen what you posted. i got new spark plugs but didn't put them in. so i did and the bike will stay running under load now. thank you ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cb350 won&apos;t stay running</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/recb350wontstayrunni_t1670.html#1670</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm assuming that when you say it won't stay running in 1st gear, you mean it won't stay running under load. I had a similar issue with my CB350  that was resolved by changing the points. My recommendation is pursue a diagnostic route per Clymer - start by testing and inspecting the electrical system. If that doesn't work out the bug, move to the carbs and fuel system, and so on...

Good luck,

Nathan

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Looking for Honda SS50 fuel tank</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/lookingforhondass50f_t1669.html#1669</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,

For the build of my 5-speed ss50 I'm after a new original fuel tank, in green with white striping (see picture for example). Will pay a very fair price or can trade with other nos parts including a k1 fuel tank.

All help is appreciated :D 

 ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb350 won&apos;t stay running</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb350wontstayrunning_t1668.html#1668</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i'm new here and i need some help.i have a 1973 honda cb350. i got the bike running but if i put it into 1st gear it stop running. the only way to keep it running when i put it into gear to keep on the throttle  for the bike can keep getting gas. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB500T vs CB500/4 vs. CB550 vs etc... Frame size</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb500tvscb5004vscb55_t1667.html#1667</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 

Can anyone tell me which (if any) of these frames are identical? i.e. What Honda frames will fit a CB500 engine/drivetrain with little or no modification?

Thanks!

Nathan

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Ten inch wheels turning to sturgis.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/reteninchwheelsturni_t1666.html#1666</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Oops, forgot to leave this.

http://www.dualsportridersoflouisiana.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7367]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Ten inch wheels turning to sturgis.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/teninchwheelsturning_t1665.html#1665</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Took my heavily modded 1972 ct70 to Sturgis. Only an 1700 mile ride to get there. Gonna leave you with a link to my local dual sport site, because the ride report is long and pictue heavy. Too tiresome to repost.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Specifications</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/specifications_t1664.html#1664</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Am probably going to purchase a CB350K2 in the near term and will have to ride it about 500 miles.  I am trying to plan the trip and would like to know the fuel capacity of the tank, Fuel octane requirement and advertised MPG.  Please respond to cballweg@yahoo.com in addition to posting response on this site.

Thanks ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350K2 On The Highway</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2onthehighwa_t1663.html#1663</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I agree with David.  I rode a 1968 CB350K2 all over the South Central USA in 1968/1969 and enjoyed every mile.  Seems to me that the speed limit was about 65 MPH in those days, and had no problems maintaing it.  

I have never understood the logic of hauling a cycle on a trailer or truck, then riding at the destination when the logical option would be to ride to the destination and enjoy the entire experience.  Remember why you bought the bike in the first place...

In any event, enjoy the ride...]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>How much should i pay for a 1973 CB350G</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/howmuchshouldipayfor_t1662.html#1662</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What is the going rate on one of these beasts? Assuming tires, brakes, compression are good, needs tune up....]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB200</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newforumrequests_f11/recb200_t1661.html#1661</link>
	<description><![CDATA[looks as if then the cb100 and 200 are a dying bread? :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB200</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newforumrequests_f11/recb200_t1660.html#1660</link>
	<description><![CDATA[looking for some like minded cb 100 owners]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 350 bogging when giveing it throttle around 3k</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72350boggingwhengi_t1659.html#1659</link>
	<description><![CDATA[have a look at the spark plug caps,they have a 5kohm resistance built in ,as they age it can go sky high (ive seen 290kohm !)that will give a sooty plug ,it cant burn correctly.they unscrew off the wire,new ones are 5 bucks ,just replace them and go over the points before you tamper with the carbs,]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 cl450 kickstart won&apos;t budge, elec. start just spins, help!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/72cl450kickstartwont_t1658.html#1658</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I picked up a 72 cl450 last week hoping to fix it up quickly with parts from my old cb450 if necessary.  I was told the engine was good and just needed the clutch hooked up and a new side cover gasket.  Well I put it together and was frustrated to find that the electric start just spun and sometimes would catch briefly.  The kickstart won't turn either, just stuck.  I took off the alternator cover to see if i could turn it with a wrench and found that if i backed it up a few degrees i could turn it forward for a while before it would get stuck again.  I'm really hoping the pistons aren't seized but i'm new to motorcycle engine repair and could really use any advice available.  I'm really excited to get this thing started and have done a lot of reading on it, but am starting to think something is wrong.  Any suggestions or responses would be awesome, if i think of/find any other symptoms i will post them. thanks in advance!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 350 bogging when giveing it throttle around 3k</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72350boggingwhengi_t1657.html#1657</link>
	<description><![CDATA[well i thought it might have something to do w/ the timing or points, so i first pulled the plugs and the right plug was way black and must be running really rich compared to the other cylinder. i'm gonna look for a manual so i can figure out how to set the points and the timing. it hadn't been sitting, the guy i bought it from used it daily. just not sure why the one plug was super fouled?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;75 CL360 K1 Muffler restoration</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re75cl360k1mufflerre_t1656.html#1656</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm restoring a CL360 too. Thinking about plating the loose muffler to see if it works. I can always start over with the one that's not fixed to the pipe. Did you have any luck in reworking yours? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New air filters for a 1972 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewairfiltersfora1_t1655.html#1655</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Rachel,

I've never used those filters but I feel your pain with the old ones being destroyed. I had an extra set that I experimented on. You can replace the filter element on your old ones if you're feeling ambitious and are handy for very little money.

Here's what you do:

Go to the auto parts store and find the biggest, roundest american car air filter you can, the kind that go on older carbureted cars or trucks. The exact kind doesnt matter but you want one that is around the same width as your 350's filters (around two inches? I don't have one in front of me but it's about that size). It doesn't matter because you'll be cutting it apart anyway. If it's too wide, you can scrunch it down and chop it to the right width.

So take your old 350 filters and use a utility knife to cut the paper filter element out of them. They'll come apart and be in two halves. sand and clean all the paper remnants and glue off the insides of the metal. Then use the new filter element you cut out of the sacrificial filter you got from the store and test fit it around the perimeter of the 350's metal filter halves. You'll be able to use some blue RTV sealant (like $5.00 for a tube at the auto store) to glue the new paper accordion in place where the old one used to be. Just glue it into one side, let it dry, and then sandwich the other side on top with more RTV, and put a dictionary on top of it over night. If you're careful and take your time and measure everything right, you'll basically be rebuilding your old filters and you'll be good to go. Just make sure you go around and fill in any little gaps or spaces with more RTV so you get a proper seal. I did this and it worked perfectly.

Good luck!


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>C320S Torpedo</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/c320storpedo_t1654.html#1654</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, I have had Hondas for a few years but am new to this forum.  I recently purchased a C320s ( in parts amd mostly complete ) and will soon begin the restoration process ( rather like a 3D Jig Saw puzzle ).  Are there any other C320 owners out there and does anyone have a workshop manual they want to sell or would let me copy.
cheers
Nick - New Zealand]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Dim headlight on 1970 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/redimheadlighton1970_t1653.html#1653</link>
	<description><![CDATA[A fully charged battery should give you about 12.7 volts. If your voltage regulator is working, you should see more than that (14 volts ??) at the battery terminals when the engine revs to 3,000 rpm or so.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 350 bogging when giveing it throttle around 3k</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re72350boggingwhengi_t1652.html#1652</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If the bike had been sitting a while, my first guess would be a gummed-up carb. A first quick check would be to try opening up the throttle on each carb individually (probably easiest if the bike is up on the center stand; gently lift each of the throttle linkages). If it revs with one carb more than it does with the other, you've confirmed the problem.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 twin ingnition upgrade</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350twiningnition_t1651.html#1651</link>
	<description><![CDATA[does "boyer "make an electronic conversion for these?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 350 bogging when giveing it throttle around 3k</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72350boggingwhengive_t1650.html#1650</link>
	<description><![CDATA[so i just got this bike last week and have only been around the block a few times(no permit) and when i give it gas it bogs then shuts off. and then i can't get it started. it seems it's getting too much gas. i blew out the filters, but no go. i don't have a manual so i don't know what's up w/ the spark advance and point setup. anyone know what my problem could be?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>bad timing?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/badtiming_t1649.html#1649</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all,

I'm nearly at my wit's end with my '69 CB350. But I've learned so much from this forum, and so once again I come to you with my problem.

I've been trying to fix the timing on my bike now for two straight days (after work) with no luck. I've been following the Clymer manual and the original shop manual from '69, but the points seem to be out of whack. Both manuals tell me to line up the LF mark with the stator marker, then check the left point, which should be just opening. However its either fully open or fully closed and no amount of timing adjustment will bring it to the desired point of just starting to open.

I've read online about the timing advance cylinder (don't know what it's called) being put in 180 degrees off, but I've tried both orientations with no luck. Any ideas?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB200</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newforumrequests_f11/recb200_t1648.html#1648</link>
	<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB200</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newforumrequests_f11/cb200_t1647.html#1647</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Are there any clubs etc for owners of the CB200? :P ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 SL350 KICKSTART JAMMED PLEASE HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/72sl350kickstartjamm_t1646.html#1646</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I RECENTLY WAS GIVEN MY GRANDFATHERS SL350 EVERYTHING IS IN PRETTY GOOD CONDITION.  IT WAS STORED IN A GARAGE FOR YEARS.  BROUGHT IT HOME CLEANED THE CARBS, GAS TANK, CHANGED THE PLUGS, NEW BATTERY, AND THEN GOT IT STARTED.  WAS LETTING IT WARM UP AND IT DIED.  WENT TO KICK IT OVER AND THE KICK STARTER WOULD NOT MOVE AT ALL.  I DECIDED TO TAKE OFF THE RIGHT SIDE COVER TO EXAMINE THE GEARS(SPROCKETS) TO SEE WHAT WAS WRONG.  I COULD NOT SEE ANYTHING SO I TOKE OFF THE CLUTCH TO MORE ACCURATELY TROUBLE SHOOT.  I FOUND THAT THE BIKE IS IT NUETRAL B/C THE MAINSHAFT MOVES FREELY.  AFTER TAKING THE CLUTCH BASKET OFF I THEN TRIED TO MOVE THE KICKSTART.  IT THEN WOULD ROTATE FREELY.  ALSO THE IDLE GEAR IS MOVING FREELY.  I THEN TOKE OF THE LEFT SIDE COVER TO GET TO THE ALTERNATOR BOLT TO SEE IF THE PISTONS WERE SEIZED AND I TOKE OUT THE PLUGS TO RULE OUT A COMPRESSIN PROBLEM.  I WAS ABLE TO GET A SOCKET AROUND THE NUT AND ROTATE THE PISTONS.  I THEN PUT BACK ON THE CLUTCH BASKET AND THEN IT LOCKS UP AGAIN WHEN I TRY TO KICK THE KICKSTART BUT I CAN ROTATE THE ENTIRE UNIT WITH MY SOCKET WRENCH FROM THE OPPOSITE SIDE WITH THE ALTERNATOR BOLT.  DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS WHAT I NEED TO DO TO GET THIS BIKE MOVIN AGAIN?  PLEASE ANY SUGGESSTIONS?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB500 info</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb500info_t1645.html#1645</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have noticed the same thing.  I just picked up a 71 cb500 last week and need some part in a bad way.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 - removing rotor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350-removingroto_t1644.html#1644</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Tom,

Good to hear that you finally got it detached. 
Thanks for sharing too!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1643.html#1643</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ Obviously I stand corrected. I hope I did not cause you to much trouble, this was not my intention. I sincerely apologize.

Tom Costello]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1642.html#1642</link>
	<description><![CDATA[

Uhh, actually, it's a  diameter, 1.5 mm pitch. (ask me how I learned this!).]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ss50 forklegs - chrome ring removal</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/ress50forklegs-chrom_t1641.html#1641</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Well I ended up finding a solution. I got a very fine tipped chisel and from the least visible face (inside of fork leg tapped the chrome ring upwards. After it moved a fraction I could get some WD40 it and things started to move. I still had to tap at visible sides also but the damage to the alloy was very slight.

 

I did wonder if the fork legs were originally polished and lacquered instead of silver painted but as you can see in pic they have silver paint under the rings. perhaps if yiu omit the paint here when restoring it will be easier to remove them in future as the chiselling dameages them and they might rust up later]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 - removing rotor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350-removingroto_t1640.html#1640</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Update: it came off. The trick was wedging the rotor in place with a brass drift wedged against the exhaust. The nut loosened nicely with a breaker bar.

The earlier problem was that the rotor   drivetrain didn't have enough inertia to make the impact wrench effective.

-- tom]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Dim headlight on 1970 CB350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/dimheadlighton1970cb_t1639.html#1639</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Stock bulb was too dim so I installed a hologen 50/60.  This light is also dim, high beam is just dimmer than the low beam should be and the low beam is almost useless.  My battery measures 12.3V and all the connections are clean.  The other lights seam ok, as they don't draw much power.  I have heard that these bikes aren't known for having the brightest lights.  Would an aftermarket rectifier solve my problem?  If so, any recommendations.

Thank you for shining light on this subject.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: a fuel line question from a newbie</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reafuellinequestionf_t1638.html#1638</link>
	<description><![CDATA[thanks Tom that helped a lot!!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: a fuel line question from a newbie</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reafuellinequestionf_t1637.html#1637</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, Bryan

The two nipples on the tank are for the "crossover" between the two tank halves. They should be joined with an appropriate length of fuel line. The two lines coming down from the petcock go to the carbs. The one to the right carb is a bit longer. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 - removing rotor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350-removingroto_t1636.html#1636</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks, Brent.

My only concern about applying a lot of heat (as in "propane torch") is the risk of demagnetizing the rotor. Am I being paranoid?  :? 

-- Tom Jupille]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>a fuel line question from a newbie</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/afuellinequestionfro_t1635.html#1635</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So i recently picked up a 1968 cl350 as a restore project. I know very little about motorcycles and figured it was time to learn something. I know that this is a very basic question but i cannot find any diagrams or explanations as to how to how to hook up the fuel lines to the carbs. I know that there is one main line from the petcock to the right carburetor because that was hooked up when I got the bike, but there are two valves coming off the petcock as well as two small vents/valves on the bottom of the tank on either side. what do I do? and do I need to hook a line connecting the carbs together? how does the gas get from one carb to the other? I know nothing, please help! haha]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>New air filters for a 1972 CL350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/newairfiltersfora197_t1634.html#1634</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just got (two weeks ago) a CL350 as a first bike and a project. The air filters on the bike are completely shot and I was not able to get OEM ones, so now I have NOS filters like these: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RC-0412. They are not the same shape as the originals, and the original filter box is half filter/half outer cover. They are the right filters for the bike. The questions are:

1. Has anyone used these aftermarket filters on his/her bike?

2. If so, how did you fabricate covers for the filters?

I appreciate any help you can provide.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350 - removing rotor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350-removingroto_t1633.html#1633</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Maybe someone in the past used high strength 'Loctite' on the bolt. If so apply heat to the bolt to soften the loctite and try the impact again. Yes, it removes counter-clockwise. I hope this helps.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 - removing rotor</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350-removingrotor_t1632.html#1632</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm fixing up a '73 CB350. The starter clutch has failed (among other issues!). The problem is that I can't get the rotor bolt loose. I've hammered on it with a cordless impact wrench to no avail. So (naive questions):

1. It is left = loosen, correct?
2. Is there any trick to getting that bolt off?
3. Will I damage anything if I get out "King Kong" (450 ft-lbs air impact wrench)?

Thanks in advance!

-- Tom Jupille]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>for sale: 1971 cl350 1631 miles.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/forsale1971cl3501631_t1631.html#1631</link>
	<description><![CDATA[1971 honda CL350 $1500. 1631 original miles!! have current title, and copy of the original title from guy who bought it new. has honda shop manual, and honda wrenches in tool box. located in walden NY 12586. see ad:
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/mcy/1290190455.html

email me directly. Lanemeyer@hotmail.com]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>73 CL350 K5</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/73cl350k5_t1630.html#1630</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Great source of info here- glad I googled  my way here..

At any rate, I have a 1973 CL350- and its my favorite two wheels in the garage.  Everything is good on it- only problem I have is the turn signals are quite slow with the headlight on...

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>???1978 Honda 750-A</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1978honda750-a_t1629.html#1629</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I Have a 1978 HONDA 750-A Automatic Trans.Can you give info.on the bike, worth,and how many are out there. Thanks  8) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB550F-1976 Kick Start</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/recb550f-1976kicksta_t1628.html#1628</link>
	<description><![CDATA[did you ever resolve this issue?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Non-bliniking Turn Signal.....?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/renon-blinikingturns_t1627.html#1627</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am new to here, joining with a 1974 CB750.
All my experience is hands on  :idea: 


I have experienced this problem when I have replaced my turn signals. It was because I only had the front connected. It is necessary for all 4 connections to be solid. 

If all connections are solid, there is a blinker relay located on the left side, like it was mentioned in this thread already. I had to purchase a new one myself. The solid light is to let the rider know that there a bulb out.

I'm sure you figured this all out already, but wanted to post just in case. I have a feeling I am gonna be on here as I have some things to figure out on my bike.

Peace & Respect]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>First Bike</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/firstbike_t1626.html#1626</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all Nice site!

Been wanting a cycle for a few years now, last week One found me a 74 CB360. Ladyfriend is selling her house its been in the garage for a few years, no title missing a few parts and some stuff doesnt work but it runs and rides enough to be worth some effort.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Handlebar wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehandlebarwiring_t1625.html#1625</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You can drill the holes yourself! I've done this three times. You have to carefully mark the point where you want the holes. Use your old bars as a refrence and take care to make sure they're angled properly. Mount the new bars on the bike and loosely put the controls and levers and all on the bars and tilt them until they're are to you liking. then make reference marks. 

The right side will need the big hole for the wires to go through and also a smaller hole that a pin in the inside of the controls goes into. Just take time and mark it just right and then drill small pilot holes first and then enlarge them to the size of the holes on the stock handle bars. You might need to put the bars in a vise so they don't disembowel you as the drill bit cuts in and grabs them. I once just clamped a set of cafe bars to a table top and drilled and it came loose and tried to kill me. Put a rag or old shirt around the bars where you clamp them so you don't damage the chrome in the vise.

The other hole you'll need is in the center on the underside toward the front. Drill two half inch or so holes about 1.5 inches apart and then use a dremel to cut away the remainder so you end up with a hole shaped like an oval. This is where the wires come out and go to the the headlight shell. It's a pain getting the wires shoved through the bars. I'd reccomend putting new heat shrink on them or wrapping them in electrical tape (kinda ghetto but it works fine) because the old black covering is brittle and stiff as you know.

Also, there will be sharp jagged edges on your new holes! Make sure you file these down or your wires will get cut into and then you'll go crazy. Also, the holes you drill WILL rust, but that's life.

]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1624.html#1624</link>
	<description><![CDATA[This is one of those things where you just need to comb through the ignition and carbs methodically and set everything just right. I'd start by checking all connections from plugs to coils to points and make sure they're all tight and clean. Then retension the cam chain. Then set point gap and spark timing. After all that is perfect, turn to the carbs. 

Speaking of float height, I thought I'd clarify. Different carb models had different float heights. The model number is stamped into the side of each carb.

they are:

350A - 19mm
3B, 3C - 21mm
3D, 722A, 726A, 728A - 26mm

Make sure the floats don't have holes. Put them under water and check for bubbles. 

Good luck!
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Have a honda cl350 and cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehaveahondacl350and_t1623.html#1623</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Get ready for some great times! The best way to do it is just as you describe. I'm assuming you're mechanically inclined of course..

Take it all the way apart, down to the frame, and polish and paint each new part as you get to it. You can paint it yourself, but the results won't be so good unless you do that kind of thing a lot or you know someone who does. Just take your time and enjoy it. Get a shop manual and learn as you go. Be prepared to spend some money here and there though. There will probably be lots of things that need to be replaced because this thing is old. 

This will be a ton of fun and will be a very rewarding feeling once you get it running for the first time. There are lots of blogs and articles about this process if you google cb350 build.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302252&page=12

this one is pretty neat and might help or give you ideas.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Elusive Right Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelusiverightcylind_t1622.html#1622</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Okay, if the coil is melting I'd say it is bad. Luckily you can get them on ebay for cheap! So I'd do that first. 

Secondly, you have to be methodical about the ignition system on these bikes. Or probably any bike, I only know these.. Anyway, after getting the coil replaced, use you voltmeter to check all the connections one by one from the plug boots to the coil to the condenser to the points, etc. Any one of them loose or dirty can make it run rough or not at all. You said you took the right point off to clean it up. Thats good, but did you re-set the point gap and the spark timing correctly? You have to do it just right and it takes some practice to get it done quickly. 

Of course the problem could be the right carb being dirty or gummed up, but we'll not worry about that for now..

As for the slotted stud you messed with, your curiosity got the better of you. Those studs are the rocker arm shafts which have an off center, or eccentric, section in the middle that the rocker arm fits over. By turning it you changed the valve clearance, which is the tiny gap between the rocker arm and the tip of the valve stem. This needs to be set precisely, and I could explain it all here or you can just go to this website and download and print out the shop manual for this bike:

http://www.freepdfmanual.com/2008/12/02/honda-cb250-cl250-cb350-and-cl350-workshop-manual

It has all your answers!

Good luck]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>CB500 Four Beyond Me</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/cb500fourbeyondme_t1621.html#1621</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just obtained a 1975 CB500 Four on a bit of a whim; always wanted a classic. On closer inspection its a bit beyond my capabilities as a restorer so want to pass it on to good home. Its very rusty. The rear mudguard fell off on the way home and the seat base is bad. On the plus side, the seat top is good, the engine appears fine, though not running and it appears to be complete apart from non-original exhaust  :cry: and centre stand has rusted away. Would anyone like to take it on? Its near Bristol, UK. Thanks. John]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Elusive Right Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/elusiverightcylinder_t1620.html#1620</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Purchased a '71 cl350 and I have it running only on the left cylinder.  I've done some research and tried a few things.  The right side coil gets very hot when turning over and check spark with the plugs out.  Maybe it gets hot just having the key on, also there is some sort of wax the drips off the coil when it's real hot. No spark on right side....I've put the multimeter to the lead going to the coil I think I have to have the point open for this to happen.  Anyway, I just want to make sure i'm using the correct terms here.  Is it possible that the coil is bad?  There is some wear on the point to the right side after I took the thing off and tried to polish it up a bit.  I didn't look at the left one because it was working.  Is there a better way to trouble shoot this....

Also there are two studs with a slot and a nut on them under the cover to the points...of course I had to to see what the did.  They rotate about 180 deg and can move in and out a bit.  Hope I didn't mess things up too bad.

Any advise is appreciated.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>wow ! Dunstall 1178 headers for the CB 500/ 550 only $150!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/wowdunstall1178heade_t1619.html#1619</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hey check our brand new authentic cb 500 550 dunstall headers , they come with mounting brackets as well , we sell them on ebay and we only have about 8 sets left , they are brand new in the original box! you can buy them through ebay just punch in this number on the ebay search engine -- 280368846647 -- , we ship worldwide , we prefer paypal as well , thanks !email us at paulocs1570@hotmail.com for more details  thanks!]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Right cylinder runs rough</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerightcylinderrunsr_t1618.html#1618</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Tom, Thanks for the response. I did everything you mentioned (thank God for a spare parts bike)to no avail. I finally hit on the solution this weekend. The o-rings on the jet retainers in the float bowl weren't sealing! The vacuum on the primary and secondary jets just wasn't happening like it should. I found out I had the same problem on my "known good carb"! The bike runs great now :-)]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: okay!! honda 500 four carb sync!!!!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/reokayhonda500fourca_t1617.html#1617</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi ,if you look in front of the carby at the inlet manifold youll see a small philips head screw facing downward slightly ,,one on each runner.,not on the carby but closer to the head..cheers,,it makes a big difference when its all synced up,,remove the tank and rig up longer fuel lines..]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Two different types of spokes for the front wheel?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/retwodifferenttypeso_t1616.html#1616</link>
	<description><![CDATA[never mind. I figured it out.

There are in fact two different spokes required for this bike's hub
because the inner spokes need the flat head on a different (right angle)
than those on the outter surface of the hub, where the head is on a 
slight off right angle because it is literally further out from center.

So much for the one size fits all spoke aftermarket ones from Ebay.
Just because they are the right length, doesnt mean they have the two
head styles required to have a true wheel that doesnt wobble.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Right cylinder runs rough</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerightcylinderrunsr_t1615.html#1615</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brent,
Check to make sure the vacuum slide is working properly if you haven't already. An easy way to do this is to remove the air cleaner then look down the throat of the carburetor as you open the throttle wide open with the engine running, you should see the vacuum slide start to rise at about 5000 RPM. It should come back down as you close the throttle. If not the diaphragm is bad or the slide could be sticking in the carb body. If it checks OK the next thing I would suspect would be a bad ignition coil.Also the ignition timing is set separately on each cylinder. I am assuming that this has been checked.
Good Luck :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Re-chroming CB350 fenders?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rere-chromingcb350fe_t1614.html#1614</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Try Browns Plating, they are in Paducah, Kentucky and they only plate motorcycle parts.
 

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1976 Honda CB550 Four Super Sport Side Covers?????</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1976hondacb550foursu_t1613.html#1613</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ :( I am having great difficulty in locating side covers for my Super Sport, can anyone help me?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Buy/Sell/Trade forum area suggestion</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/anyotherideas_f12/rebuyselltradeforuma_t1612.html#1612</link>
	<description><![CDATA[yes, thats where I get most of my 36 year old vintage parts.
however, there are times when they just cannot be found there either.

As you saw from the Winker post, googling and finding one from 
DownUnder was the last ditch option.

Sorry to hear there wasnt much action on this idea in the past.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Two different types of spokes for the front wheel?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/twodifferenttypesofs_t1611.html#1611</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ive just refurbished a 21" rim and center hub for a SL125K2.

Looking at the CMSL micro fiche, 


it shows two part numbers for the
spokes, one for the outter and inner ones:
Partnumber   Qty   
972723130310 18    
974663130210 18  

My question is why? 
Every aftermarket set or even OEM set Ive seen are one size fits all.  
:shock: ]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: Winker Stay Needed for SL125</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/rewinkerstayneededfo_t1610.html#1610</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Actually thats how I found a lead on one from Austrialia.
Thats how hard it is to find this part.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cl350 starter clutch rebuild</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350starterclutch_t1609.html#1609</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I know this is an old post but just in case someone needs this info: The rear axle of the bike has the right threads and will work as a removal tool if you have access to an extra one. Put the bike on the center stand, block the rear wheel and put the bike in gear. If you don't have an extra axle try putting a strap wrench around the stator.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Replacement coil for CB175</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/replacementcoilforcb_t1608.html#1608</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Do any of you know where I can find an aftermarket ignition coil for my 71 CB175 K5?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Right cylinder runs rough</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rightcylinderrunsrou_t1607.html#1607</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've been doing bikes for years (but new to Honda twins) and this one has me stumped. I rebuilt the carbs on a '72 350 twin and the right carb rev's on the low speed jet but goes blahhh at higher RPMs.  and it did the same. I checked the compression, checked the valve clearances, replaced the intake boot, installed new plugs, etc. I caught a blurb in another forum discussion about the 'timing being off for that cylinder'. Are they timed independently? This bike sat since 1984 but is in general overall excellent condition. Any thoughts? Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re-chroming CB350 fenders?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re-chromingcb350fend_t1606.html#1606</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all,

The fenders on my CB350K1 have been painted silver, but I'm hoping to return them to the original chrome. Any recommendations on places or rough pricing ideas? I'm pretty sure this isn't something I can do on my own. I'm near Albany, NY (USA) if this helps.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Buy/Sell/Trade forum area suggestion</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/anyotherideas_f12/rebuyselltradeforuma_t1605.html#1605</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Thomas,

CMS had such a functionality in the past, but it died a slow death since there simply not enough ppl that offered parts.   :( 

So I guess that for personal trading you are better of using ebay etc.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Winker Stay Needed for SL125</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/rewinkerstayneededfo_t1604.html#1604</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Thomas,

Have you  this item?
Perhaps you can digg it up in some a second hand or scrap yard website.

Good luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Any carb experts here?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/reanycarbexpertshere_t1603.html#1603</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I recommend sticking to what the original designers specified for the bike for two reasons:

a.  Keep a vintage bike as much original as possible.
b.  Why overstress the parts by pushing more horse power out of it?
The need for speed is understood as part of the motorcycle craze, but
theres a point where keeping a bike in good shape has value.

Ive been told to drill holes in my SL125's air box, get a reworked
cylinder head, new carb with more CFM, and a bigger piston kit in order
to get more power.   While all of this is may improve performance, it
comes at a cost of both money and engine and impacted mechanical parts
MTBF and life span.   For a race, go for it.  But for a collectable, I dont recommend it.

As for the specific answer to your CFM and carb question, I cannot help you there.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Winker Stay Needed for SL125</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/winkerstayneededfors_t1602.html#1602</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Im putting winkers/blinkers on my US market 1973 SL125 because it too
darn dangerous driving and using hand signals.    Here in the USA is
OK to not have signals on the bike up through 1984 if the bike didnt come with them, such as in my case.

However Ive decided to find the parts that go on a French (EU/UK) market SL125 and install them on my bike.   So far I have everything Honda OEM parts except the right hand side rear winker stay (mount), p/n 33607-331-000.   Every where Ive looked the rear side cannot be found.   If any of you have a new or used one, please contact me here or via my profile.

Cheers,

Thomas]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Forum threads reorganization suggestion</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/anyotherideas_f12/forumthreadsreorgani_t1601.html#1601</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The user community might be better served if the forum were to be 
organized by bike class, such as:

- Dirtbikes/elsinore/dualsport

- Street bikes

- ATV

- Misc:  sidecars, 3 wheels, trailers, etc

- Value Adds:  electronics gadgets, covers, maintenance products, etc

- Tips Of the Trade:  ideas for restoring, maintenance, repair, 
electrical debug, mechanical debug, Q/A]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Buy/Sell/Trade forum area suggestion</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/anyotherideas_f12/buyselltradeforumare_t1600.html#1600</link>
	<description><![CDATA[When the Part Search engine comes up with no results,
it would be nice to be able to contact this user community
and ask them directly for parts needed, for sale, or trade.

CMSL could act in the capacity of go between for a modest
percentage of the value for their involvement (optionally).]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>painting of chassis for honda cb 750 k7</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/paintingofchassisfor_t1599.html#1599</link>
	<description><![CDATA[someone who knows about my frame was powder painted orginalt or ordinary auto paint. 
Is about to put my old honda restore the original again.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Have a honda cl350 and cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/haveahondacl350andcb_t1598.html#1598</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Im 18 and looking to fix up my honda cl350...but right now its in pieces.
Not really sure where to start so I thought that I would just take it the rest of the way apart and clean it all up. Then just start building it back together...any suggestions about how to best do this? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1973 Honda SL125-K2:  Hello From Sunny So Cal USA</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1973hondasl125-k2hel_t1597.html#1597</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello.

Just saying "Hi" and would like to hear from any of you interested in things related to the Honda SL125 model bike.

I live in sunny Southern California USA.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB400/4 PARTS BOOK/SERVICE MANUAL</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/recb4004partsbookser_t1596.html#1596</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Alan,

 are plenty of CB400 shop manuals (partslists).

You also might want to check out the manuals at 

Hope this helps!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: handling question...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/rehandlingquestion_t1595.html#1595</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi there

I have a FS1 IT IS A 1969 THAT I HAVE JUST RESTORED, SHE RUNS LIKE A DREAM
AND HANDLES VERY WELL, AND QUITE QUICK FOR A 50CC.

Regards
Alan ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB400/4 PARTS BOOK/SERVICE MANUAL</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/cb4004partsbookservi_t1594.html#1594</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi folks
I have just become the proud owner of a 1976 400/4 she is going to need a full restoration, the bike still runs well, but need work.

Could you please help me with a parts book, ans a service manual, if possible on a PDF file format.

Regards
Alan  :lol: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repleasehelp_t1593.html#1593</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Joel,
You may also try to find a 350 that has all it's parts together and study it as far as how the harness is routed and were the connections are . As far as the four wires from the alternator check between the pink and yellow and then between the pink and white (pink is a common wire on this alternator coil)you should  have a small voltage reading at these while kicking the engine over. Output from the alternator is normally checked with the engine running but you should get some readings at cranking speed. The light green/red wire is for the neutral switch and you should have no current there.
Good luck :!: 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repleasehelp_t1592.html#1592</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would goto ebay and buy another wiring harness like I did for my CL350. I scored a harness for $8.00 and it had a signal flasher & rectifier hooked up to it that were better than mine.
Goto ebay and find everything you need.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repleasehelp_t1591.html#1591</link>
	<description><![CDATA[here is some photos of it if thats any help to yous,

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thedjphotography/3683481708/" title="IMGP0400 by D &amp;amp; J Photography, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2542/3683481708_2ef54463e1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMGP0400" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thedjphotography/3683476742/" title="IMGP0397 by D &amp;amp; J Photography, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2660/3683476742_8cdac41ba5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMGP0397" /></a>]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repleasehelp_t1590.html#1590</link>
	<description><![CDATA[oh thanks, by the way with the four wires coming from the alternater only one has current going threw it, is this normal]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/repleasehelp_t1589.html#1589</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Joel,

You might want to start 
Plenty of diagrams enlisted  :!: 

Good luck  :roll: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/pleasehelp_t1588.html#1588</link>
	<description><![CDATA[im restoring my dads old cb350twin, and all the electricals were pulled off of it like 10 years ago so it could be painted and i dont have a clue were they all go now, so if someone could tell me what goes were with like a diagram or something that would be appriated, im not worried about lights or starer motor yet. i just want it to run,, cheers]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>clutch</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/clutch_t1587.html#1587</link>
	<description><![CDATA[on my cb750k4 wheel does not spin when i go into gear. clutch cable is connected but not too firm. any ideas?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>hi all</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hiall_t1586.html#1586</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi everyone.
 i live in england & have owned a xbr500 h model 1st reg in 1988 for a good number of years without any problems even with 65000 miles on the clock.
 i can still find service & engine parts quite easly in england, but bodyparts, fixtures & fittings i cannot seem to find anywhere in the uk at all.
 i am mainly looking for the original rear shocks & right hand handle bar clamp (which on this model the clamp & handle bar are 2 seperate parts).
 if anyone out there can help it would be very good to hear from you. thanks all, ride safe.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda XBR 500 Owners manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehondaxbr500ownersm_t1585.html#1585</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi. ive just join the site. i live in england. i have a xbr500 h model reg 1988 which i use as a bad weather run about. i to am finding it hard to find some parts. after 2 years of looking i found work shop & owners manual at one of the classic jap bike shows in england. david silver a dealer in england for classic honda parts still do a copy of the workshop manual & may still do the decals. they have a web site & mail order service. if u let us know what info u need may be able to get info to u.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>Re: What parts am I missing?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rewhatpartsamimissin_t1584.html#1584</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Shawn,
You can get some clamp on air filters from a company called Sudco. They deal in carburetors for all types of motorcycles,new and old. Also K&N filters makes clamp ons for motorcycles. You can check the both out on the web. You may be able to find the stock air cleaner housings at a motorcycle salvage yard. The brass fittings on the bottom of the float bowls are the carb overflow drains and they originally had a hose running from them to the back of engine. The fitting on the top of the engine is the crank case breather and it normally had a hose on it that ran down in back of the engine below the swing arm and was just left open on the end.
Happy trails   :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>HONDA CB750 Four SOHC primary chains</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/hondacb750foursohcpr_t1583.html#1583</link>
	<description><![CDATA[just returned from Spa-Francochamps/Belgium, were the annual "Biker`s Classics" took place and had the luck to meet the distributor of heavy duty primary chains for the good old Honda CB 750 Four SOHC.
I could have a look at the product and indeed, there is a world of difference between the OEM-parts and his chains... no wonder, those OEM-chains reflect the standard back in 1969, the new chains are made in 2009 by a german sports car manufacturer!
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: stock air box vs. pods</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restockairboxvspods_t1582.html#1582</link>
	<description><![CDATA[if the filters look like they do filter air ok,try raising the needle in the slide one notch at a time]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350K2 On The Highway</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2onthehighwa_t1581.html#1581</link>
	<description><![CDATA[just make sure the bikes ready for it ,take some small tools for like plugs ,chain adjustmentsit on 55mph and enjoy it!!what happened in the "old"days ,some big distances were covered on lesser machines ,,plan a few stops and stretch ,im jealous i cant go .]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1580.html#1580</link>
	<description><![CDATA[you might want to try the spark plug caps,,they should have 5kohms resistance ,,if you dont have a multimeter just buy new caps they are about five bucks each ,when they get old the resistance value can go up too high and cause missfiring and stuttering intermittently ,some times only when hot.the spark may look good but under compression it can go all weak in these conditions,go right over the contact points aswell ,the points may be fine but the condensors might be soggy if they are old ,,these are cheap aswell ,some auto ones can be used,,getting the ignition tip top first is easier than pulling carbs down over and over!! the float height isnt real important so long as it isnt really out..good luck.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>What parts am I missing?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/whatpartsamimissing_t1579.html#1579</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Helping a friend on her 71 CB 350. Came as basket case. Only messed with Harleys and a 83 Yamaha 650 before. Don't have book or info on this bike.

1. Doesn't have air cleaners or a box. Any place to get them or just do clamp-ons? Where can I get those, carbs are 50mm where they clamp on.

2. Is there supposed to be a hose between carbs on the little 1/8 in nipples on bottom?

3. On rear of right side cylinder these is a 1/2 in or so piece where a hose clamps on. Is this for blow-by. Should it have a hose or filter there?

Thanks for any help,
Shawn


Clarksville, TN, USA]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New to honda cb350 questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtohondacb350que_t1578.html#1578</link>
	<description><![CDATA[lol, didn't notice how old original post was... oops]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New to honda cb350 questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtohondacb350que_t1577.html#1577</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just picked up a honda cb350 and have a few questions because this is my first bike.
1. Best way to clean and seal tank, I am not sure if it is rust so is it necessary to seal? I have read to get cleaner and bb's and just shake it up then rinse it then put alcohol to dry up the water then seal it.
2. Is there anyway to clean the air filter? It runs but the carb over flowed due to a faulty float and soaked the filter with gas.
3. What is the threading on the bottom side of the petcock valve for? There appears to be threads and a screen but nothing attached.
4. Best place to buy tires? They are in good condition tread wise but have some dry rot and I want to be safe and get some new tires.
Thats all for now. Thanks

1. Depending on how bad the tank is determines on what to do. I just did the tank on a 71 CB350 for a friend that was horrible. First remove petcock & use a hose,2 clamps & a pipe plug to block it off;

If tank isn't bad, fill it with hot water & industrial degreaser (Simple Green) and a about 10 - 15 clean nuts (about 1/4in or 5mm size). Shake tank to break any rust loose. Tilt tank up and remove pipe plug from hose you installed over petcock threads. Drain tank into a bucket with a strong magnet. The magnet should have the nuts and any large rust attached to give you an idea of what came out. Rinse tank with water till you have no suds. Then rinse the tank with alcohol or acetone. Re assemble & DO NOT leave it exposed to moisture.

IF the tank is bad, do above steps first. Then use a rust convertor/metal etcher over night. Rinse tank. Then rinse tank with solvent for type of sealant using. Then seal. KREEM makes a decent system to seal tanks. Depending on temp watch closing  & don't let sealant pool or dry to drips inside take. A low pressure compressor will help. be careful not to let it block off the hole for petcock or the small cross over tubes underneath. Swish the sealant over that area but don't let it sit pooled there for long.

2. Air dry & compressor like other suggested.

3. The bottom of the petcock is supposed to have a bowl on it with a hex bottom to thread it in.. Find it or buy it (good luck, tough to find, no idea where). When you have petcock off to do tank, take it apart & clean it also. The nut that attaches to the tank also threads on to petcock. It had reverse threads on that side (clockwise/right to loosen). there is an o-ring in there. also take the screws off the front and clean under the valve. There is a 4hole gasket there also 3 for fuel & 1 to hold it in place. Take it out to access to paths fuel takes in it. Pipe cleaners and carb cleaner work good on this.

4. Not sure where you are to give a suggestion on tires.

Best of luck & enjoy,
Shawn]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Most popular sub-250cc Honda over 1969/70?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/remostpopularsub-250_t1576.html#1576</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
  As I was 16 in 1970, I bought (with the help of my Father) a Honda CB175 K4, this and the SS125 were very popular first time machines. But those that could afford it would go right out and buy a CB250. I hope that helps a little!..............James]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>stock air box vs. pods</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/stockairboxvspods_t1575.html#1575</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1971 CB350. The stock airbox has been removed and very porous metal screen pods put in their place. The bike has all the symptoms of running lean (surging, pinging, inconsistent idle, etc.). Since these are CV carbs, does it make sense to return to the stock air box to make the carbs work better. It's a big issue with 4 cylinder bikes with CVs, but I don't know about small twins.

Thanks,
J.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Ignition coil problems for CB160</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/reignitioncoilproble_t1574.html#1574</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Ken I am having the exact same problem with my 1965 CB160! Glad I didn't order a replacement coil?

Larry Yancy
passat1@ix.netcom.com]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Hi all you vintage Honda lovers!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehiallyouvintagehon_t1573.html#1573</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Gary,

Welcome to the forum. Looks like you've been busy with your machine  :lol: 

Will you be putting on decals too? That would finish the bike off.

Good luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350 twin ingnition upgrade</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350twiningnitionup_t1572.html#1572</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Has anyone found a workable CDI upgrade to the CB350 igition system? I'm finding alot of CHEAP coils I could use, but CDI coils have a common ground between the primary and secondary unlike the point sytem.

Maybe I'll need to design a system myself?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1571.html#1571</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Nathan,
The factory specifications for the float height is 19  /- .5mm. If you had to set them to a higher number and it ran better it is probably running to rich. Another thing you could check if you haven't already is the battery condition. If the battery is low or in poor condition it could cause it to act like it is running rich.

Tom ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda 360 variations</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehonda360variations_t1570.html#1570</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1976 CJ myself and from what I have learned about it, it is a cheapened version of the 360. Honda tried to make it less expensive so they could sell more.

No electric start ( and you can't add a starter due to engine case being different -hole to mount it is blocked out)
plastic front fender
no chrome rear fender (it is painted black)
seat is different due to it having a tail fairing
no center stand
frame and some other things like the headlight mount are different
2 into 1 exhaust
drum front brake
5 speed tranny instead of 6 speed]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Hi all you vintage Honda lovers!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehiallyouvintagehon_t1569.html#1569</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Oh, and I had to replace the fork seals and dust seals. One of the tubes was leaking. And yes, I know the windshield should be down lower. I want it high enuff to block the bugs!

I also put a CB360 center-stand on it. I made it work cause it is really handy to have!

I paid $400 for it when I bought it.

I do need to find some handlebars...the original ones are slightly bent on one side.

This pic is when I first got it.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hi all you vintage Honda lovers!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hiallyouvintagehonda_t1568.html#1568</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all! My name is Gary.
I bought a 1976 CJ360 back in April and have been working out the bugs in it since then. I have almost 1000 miles on the bike already. So far I have:
-rebuilt the carbs and replaced the piston set in both
-put a new drive chain on
-put NOS mirrors on
-taken the ignition switch apart and cleaned it (also put in some dielectric grease)
-replaced the front tire
-added a small windshield
-changed oil and cleaned filter screen every 500 miles
-replaced the capacitors

I am still waiting for a new MAC exhaust system since I cannot get a muffler for it (the old one is in rough shape)
I have a bad coil so I am replacing both with XS650 Yamaha coils

Someone along the line had painted the engine, wheels, and exhaust with silver paint! I have the wheels cleaned up now. Need to work more on the front wheel.
Someone painted the tank, side covers, and tail fairing blue so, I painted the headlight bucket to match.

So, it is coming along nicely. Engine is strong even tho one coil is bad. Compression test was 170 pounds on both cylinders which is good for a bike with 21,000 miles! Oh, I have cleaned the "bondo" from the Hoda logos on the engine since these pics were taken. I plan on doing a really good cleanup on it this winter (paint frame, do a better paint job on tank etc, and polish the engine side covers)



]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1567.html#1567</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Tom,

Thanks for your advice. The rubber boots were in good order when I rebuilt the carbs last week, but I'll pull them again and recheck. Yesterday I set the floats really high (27mm on the right and then 28mm on the left) and it still runs very poorly - even worse than before - but at least now the spark plug tips aren't solid black after a few minutes running and are instead mostly tan. Now I'm wondering, though, if the engine is starved of fuel instead of getting too much. 

I'll post an update after I get through the electrical system and check the rubber bits, but any further advice or ideas would be most appreciated. 

Thanks again,

Nathan


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1566.html#1566</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Nathan,
Did you check the throttle slides? The diaphragms could be torn or have hardened from age. One way to check them is to lift the slide up through the throat of the carb, it should come back down all by itself when you let go of it. If it doesn't the diaphragm has probably hardened and is bad and will cause the slide to stick open. You will have to check the diaphragms visually for tears or cracks, these can keep the   slides from opening properly. Also did you check the air cleaners? I have seen these cause poor running conditions when slightly dirty.
Good luck !   :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rerebuiltcarbsbutsti_t1565.html#1565</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've decided to work through the ignition/valves per Clymer 1) cam chain tensioner 2) valve clearance 3) breaker points 4) ignition timing.  If that doesn't work, I might just throw a tantrum, and then start messing with the float adjustment - although when I rebuilt the carbs the measurements were as spot-on as my standard ruler could measure.

Does anyone have any thoughts before I spend my afternoon doing something that may or may not be a waste of time? Help? Please?!

Cheers,

Nathan


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Hi all. I&apos;ve come to pick yer brains......</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehiallivecometopick_t1564.html#1564</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey guys, thanks for your overwhelming response to my problem. (Just kiddin', i know what an obscure question it was).

Anyway, i got the answer i was looking for; my cm motor will go quite snuggly into a cd frame. I want to do something a bit different with it though, but i am not sure what. So i wonder, can anyone suggest anything i can do to make my bike stand out so it isnt just another non descript little Honda. Bear in mind that i am a bit green but just want to have a go. Also are there any recomendations as to where i can get new parts for old bikes. I've herd Dave Silver is the best old Honda man, but somewhere in the Merseyside, Cheshire, North Wales area would suit me better. 

Thanks in advance, Iain.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda SS 50 D</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehondass50d_t1563.html#1563</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Kelly,

Is this the one?
http://www.cmsnl.com/partslist.php?model_id=8240
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda SS 50 D</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hondass50d_t1562.html#1562</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a Honda SS 50 D.  I don't know for sure what year it is.  It has the low exhaust. It came into Canada around 1967 I was told.  It was supposed to be only 1 or 2 years in Canada.

If anyone has any info or parts for this bike I would be very interested in talking to you.

Kelly]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: i need help and advise on cb550 f2 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/reineedhelpandadvise_t1561.html#1561</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Dan,

I just picked up my first bike, too, and am happy to share what I've learned over the last couple weeks. 1) Buy yourself a shop manual - Clymer seems to be the publisher of choice. 2) Get yourself the appropriate tools right up front, if you don't already have a well-stocked garage. 

If it were me (and keep in mind that I've very little experience, myself), I'd start with the routine clean/maintain/tune procedures as described by the manual, it'll walk you through every system on the bike. Rebuild and/or clean the carbs, inspect the gearing/clutch/brakes, spec/test the wiring harness, test/replace appropriate cables, clean the gastank if necessary, etc, etc, etc... 

You can find a lot of used parts on ebay and my local salvage yard has a lot, too. 

But then again, I'm sure you'll get some good posts from others on here who have more experience than I. 

Good luck, in any case.

Nathan




]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Rebuilt carbs but still running poorly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rebuiltcarbsbutstill_t1560.html#1560</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi All,

I bought my first bike, a '71 CB350, a couple weeks back. It ran well for the first 100 miles. I changed the oil and on the way home it began running poorly, coughing when I poured on the throttle.  The oil change could be a coincidence, but then again, maybe not. 

Did some research and rebuilt the carbs, hoping that would take care of it - but the bike is running just as poorly as it had before. I figure that it is running too rich because 1) the spark plugs are black even after a couple minutes idle 2) exhaust note is very "poppy" when running, and 3) choke air intake needs to be left wide open, else the bike dies immediately. 

What is the solution? Do I need to adjust the floats? (But this doesn't seem to explain the sudden onset of the issue, as both floats are in good working order, with no leaks). Can anyone help? 

Thanks,

Nathan


]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Only running on the left cylinder, Ignition?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reonlyrunningonthele_t1559.html#1559</link>
	<description><![CDATA[  I have a 72 cb 350 and when i first got it it would only run on the left cylinder.  After changing the ignition coil twice i took off the left side cover and below and to the rear of the battery is the rectifier plug that honda inconveniently placed right under the battery overflow.  the hose was missing and it corroded the plug check that.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: power loss at 70mph</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/repowerlossat70mph_t1558.html#1558</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I think I may have the same problem.  It has happened to me a few times before.

I have a feeling it may be that the bike is using up too much fuel, that the carb bowls actually start to run dry?  Then when you take a break, they fill up again and everything is ok?  My problem only occurs if I maintain a high speed for a long time (around 70-80 mph)

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Handlebar wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehandlebarwiring_t1557.html#1557</link>
	<description><![CDATA[On the flip side of this thread, if I have a set of after market handlebars with no holes for wiring, is there a set of hand controls, brakes, throttle tube, etc that I can buy that would work?

In my case, I have a 74 CB350 K4 twin but I bought some clubman handlebars for a cafe racer style look.  I don't want to drill holes in the clubmans and would rather buy some brakes, throttle controls, etc from another bike and put those one.  Of course, I'll need brake handles that work with cables and not hydraulics and wires that run outside of the bars. Any suggestions?

Sam.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda cm250 te</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehondacm250te_t1556.html#1556</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hey Mike,

I just saw your posting here from a couple of years ago and i am curious. Sorry i cannot answer the questions you posted, but would i be right in thinking you might have got it sorted in the mean time?

The reason i ask is because i have a similar project in mind. A friend has given me a box of misc parts mostly from a CM 200. Elsewhere i know where to find a CD 185 rolling chassis. As i understand, these bikes share a mutual lump and frame as well as other parts. So that is why i was interested when i saw your posting. What have you done with your bike and how did you do it? 

My previous post got no replies like yours so that is why i started looking to contact others with a small Honda directly. I think perhaps the others using this forum have bigger and older bikes as that might explain why they wern't able to help us.

Regards Iain. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Handlebar wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehandlebarwiring_t1555.html#1555</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thanks, Ray! I guess that's another thing to add to the list of parts to find. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB350K2 On The Highway</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k2onthehighwa_t1554.html#1554</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I would put the bike in the back of a Tacoma and drive it up there then ride when I got there.
3 hours on a 350 will be murder on your ass, back and kidneys.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Handlebar wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehandlebarwiring_t1553.html#1553</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You must have an aftermarket handle bar on your bike.
A stock handle bar has holes in it for running the wires to the harness in the headlight.
You could try cutting the holes in the handle bar yourself which I would never do, or you can goto ebay and buy the correct handle bar for your bike.
My 71 CL350K-3 needs a handle bar because the chrome is in very very bad shape but, I do not buy one from ebay for some reason. Maybe because it is such a PITA to run the wires through the bar to begin with, that really sucks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1552.html#1552</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Concerning the starter clutch, sometimes the starter spins freely as if the clutch hasn't engaged and other times it seems the clutch does engage but the starter doesn't have enough muscle to turn over the engine.
Perhaps i have two problems. Can a starter motor just be weak?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1551.html#1551</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The battery is new from Honda, so i feel pretty good about that.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hi all. I&apos;ve come to pick yer brains......</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hiallivecometopickye_t1550.html#1550</link>
	<description><![CDATA[.....cos if i could i'd have picked a better one than mine!

Can anyone tell me if i can put the engine from a CM250 into a CD185? I have a motor without a bike, and have been offered a bike without a motor.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Handlebar wiring</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/handlebarwiring_t1549.html#1549</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi all,

I bought a 1969 CB350K1 in January and have almost finished rebuilding it. My question though, is this: when running the wires from the handlebar controls (horn, headlight, turn signal, starter) into the headlight, how do they get there? I bought a NOS control, but there doesn't seem to be a way to run the wires out. Do I have to drill a hole in the controller? I don't see a holes in the handlebar to run the wires through there. Anyone out there have one to check?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Most popular sub-250cc Honda over 1969/70?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/mostpopularsub-250cc_t1548.html#1548</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am writing an article about the year 1970 and need to know what was the best-selling Honda motorcycle under 250cc at this time. In 1970 all learner motorcyclists in the United Kingdom were restricted to bikes under 250cc. So a 16yo would probably have been riding a sub-250cc Honda. Many thanks in advance for any help received.

Helen]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB350K2 On The Highway</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/cb350k2onthehighway_t1547.html#1547</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello everyone, forgive me if this is the wrong place to post this question. 

I just put my '70 CB350 on the road. I've had it for a few years, picked it up for free from a woman who's husband had rode it. The last time it was on the road was around '82. It seems to be in pretty good mechanical shape. I took the short ride to the shop for tires on it and it felt pretty good. 

Here's my question. For a long trip, what's a safe speed to maintain on the highway for it? It's about a 3 hr ride up to Americade, and I've been told that for a long ride one should keep the speed down because of the stress on the top end of the 2cyl. I'm sort of debating whether to take it for such a long ride right away. 

Any constructive insight/comments are greatly appreciated, thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda XBR 500 Owners manual</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hondaxbr500ownersman_t1546.html#1546</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi, I live on  that go on the side panels that say "XBR 500".
Please can anyone help ? I would be very happy if i could get someone to photocopy their owners manual, and would pay costs & postage.
Also if any riders/travelers with older bikes visiting the island, we could meet for a chat or i can give you useful information about the island, where to go/what to see .....
Safe riding,  Garth. (traveller,photo artist & musician)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>i need help and advise on cb550 f2 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/ineedhelpandadviseon_t1545.html#1545</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i am only 13 but have worked on motorbikes and have a big interest in them. I have just inherited a honda cb550 f2 from my great uncle. It has not run for at least 20 years and will not start. The engine does turn (i took off a cover and turned a nut and the engine turned). But will not start by electric because the battery charge has run out (hasa a crack in it aswell but dont want to buy new one yet incase the bike never works) and doesn't start by kick start either. 

Has anyone got any tips?

Has anyone got some good places to buy parts from?

Thanks Dan]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Tail light and turn signal problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/retaillightandturnsi_t1544.html#1544</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Robert,
The brown wire should run from the tail to the ignition switch on this model.At the ignition switch the brown wire connects to the brown/white wire witch goes to the headlight switch. Check to make sure you have power at the brown/white wire from the headlight switch once it is turned on, if not the switch may be bad. As for the turn signals go it sounds like an open in the circuit. You want to check  continuity from the bulb socket to the connector at the end of the wire. The light blue wire is for the right turn signal and the orange is for the left. You also want to check the ground side by checking continuity between the bulb socket and the green wire from the main harness. If they have low or no continuity check for corroded connectors or broken wires.
I hope this can help. :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: &apos;71 CB350 Fails To Shift</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350failstoshif_t1543.html#1543</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Nathan, 
From the symptoms you describe it does sound like the shift lever linkage is the problem. Try rotating the shifter joint one spline counter clockwise on the shift spindle shaft and then if necessary adjust the shift linkage rod to get a proper shift lever height. I hope this works for you.  :) 
Happy riding!
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Oil Leak Between head and Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reoilleakbetweenhead_t1542.html#1542</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Pat,
The torque spec. that you used for the cyl. head is correct but on the 350 twins the oil flows up the rear outside studs to the cyl. head. Honda did not use o-rings on the head gasket on this engine and recommended that new gaskets be put on dry with no sealer. If you have to use a sealer I have had good results with Copper Coat gasket sealer. When using it make sure you let the sealer dry before installing the gasket. You want to pin point exactly were the oil leak is originating from in  order to help determine what needs to be done. Try retorquing the head. Loosen all the head nuts then torque in two stages,first at half torque then at full torque starting from the inside nuts to the outside in a crisscross pattern, also make sure the upper engine mount bolt is loose while doing this. I hope this helps.
Happy Trails. :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Tail light and turn signal problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/taillightandturnsign_t1541.html#1541</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just got my grandpa's 71 CB350 on the road again after sitting for 20 years! Its a blast! I was concentrating mostly on the mechanical issues of the bike and didn't pay too much attention to electrical issues. Well, now that its on the road, my attention turns towards the electrical problems it has. 

First of all, let me say that the following problems could be related, however, I suspect that they are two separate problems.

The first problem is with the tail light. It is not lighting. The brake light is fine(on the rear brake, but not on the front :( ), but the tail light does not light at all, ever. I did some troubleshooting and the problem IS NOT from the brown connector in the headlight to the tail light. It works as long as there is a hot wire hooked up. The problem is, there is no corresponding brown wire(male) to hook up to it! I unplugged everything in the head light to try and find something that I put together wrong, but did not find the illusive missing male wire!

My second problem is with the turn signals. My back lights turn on, but do not blink, and my front ones do not turn on at all. Both front and rear turn signals used to work perfectly, however they have recently stopped. Both side are grounded well, and they are both receiving electricity. Everything I have looked at suggests they should work. Good, ground, good hot wire, etc. My dad(who has been helping me on the bike) insists that it is not the turn signal relay, but I am suspicious of it anyway. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas on this issue?

So here's a recap:

1.) Does anyone know where the missing (male) tail light wire might be/if it is a different color than the brown female wire that leads directly back to the tail light?

2.) Could the turn signal problem be the turn signal relay/if not, what might the problem be?


Thank you in advance for the help!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;71 CB350 Fails To Shift</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cb350failstoshift_t1540.html#1540</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi All,

I bought and then rode my first bike home a few days ago, and suffered my first mechanical difficulty the next day. As this CB350 is my first bike, I thought I'd ask for a bit of advice to help me get it back on the road - my Clymer won't be here for a few more days. What follows is a description of what happened, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction, or at least tell me which steps I should take first.

I attempted to adjust the clutch cable tension woth the tensioner at the base of the clutch lever. This seemed to go smoothly. I took her out for a quick spin to test, everything was working properly, and then the clutch cable seemed to "snap" - insomuch as the lever went completely slack, with no tension on it at all. I got it home, took off the clutch cover plate, adjusted the tensioner on the plate and the tensioner on the base of the cable. This seemed to get the clutch lever working properly. However, when I jumped on to give her another spin, she refused to sift from neutral to second - she will only shift in between first and neutral, and will not go any higher.

I've determined that the issue is not the orientation of the shifter (I thought I may have oriented it too low when I put the clutch plate back on, therefore not allowing enough upward pressure to shift). 

Can anyone help me? What should I do first, as I'd very much like to be riding this weekend?

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CM 250 T - problems starting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/recm250t-problemssta_t1539.html#1539</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just had another look (and listen to things) and I'm noticing a slight bubbling kind of sound coming from the battery.

Also with all lights off I get the neutral light popping up every minute or so after an attempted start. When I press the start button I hear a clicking from the small cylindrical object to the right of the battery which I believe is the starter relay.

So my deduction indicates that this is either the battery having insufficient charge or the starter relay having a problem. 
Am I on the right lines? And if so which should I try replacing first?
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CM 250 T - problems starting</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cm250t-problemsstart_t1538.html#1538</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I bought this bike a few weeks ago and everything has been running fine until today it failed to start.

I turned the key, the neutral light popped on, pushed the start button and the lights went out without turning over.
Just as I was putting the bike down to have a look for the (non existent) kick start the lights popped on again so tried the electric start and still nothing.

A gentle push and I managed to jump start and all ran fine. Once running the indicator lights worked fine and the electrics seemed ok.
When I turned off the engine and switched the key back on the neutral light stayed off.

My guess is that this is due to a problem with either the battery/charger/starter but am not really sure which one to start with on my checks.

The battery cover on this bike has been missing since before I bought it which does leave it a little open to the recent rain, but visually the connections seem fine.

If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Mark]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Oil Leak Between head and Cylinder</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/oilleakbetweenheadan_t1537.html#1537</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I put my engine back together and I now have an oil leak between the head and cylinder. The oil leak is on the left side of the bike. 

I used all new gaskets when I put it back together and torqued to factory specs (14ft-lbs if I recall correctly). My gasket kit did not include orings for around the front locating dowels, and I am thinking this is where it is leaking from. I know that those stud holes (front left outter and front right outter) are used as an oil passage as well. I did a compression test and pulled ~172psi on each cylinder, I am confident that the gasket was not leaking around the cylinder.

Are there o-rings that go around the locating dowels on the front outter two? Should I put orings there so that I may prevent a leak? Should I put a gasket compound there instead of o-rings?

It may depend on how large the holes are on my new gasket, but figured I would ask. I do not know how large they are yet in relation the locating dowels. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1965 Honda s65 - Light and horn problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/1965hondas65-lightan_t1536.html#1536</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My 1965 S65 Honda that I have been restoring has a problem with the lights and horn not funtioning properly.  The horn make just a small noise - but works fine when connected to a 6 volt source directly.  Same with the lights.  They turn on and are very dim - I increase the engine RPMs and they get a little brighter, but not very much.  I put in a new battery but it did not help.  Is there a magneto that generates the power to these and it has a problem OR do I have a wiring problem?
Thanks for any help.  Lewis]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Ignition coil problems for CB160</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/ignitioncoilproblems_t1535.html#1535</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello I'm not getting my right cylinder to fire. The left works fine. When I put an induction timing gun on the left side spark plug wire the strobe works fine. When the gun's clip is on the right side spark plug wire there is no strobe from the gun. When I take the plug out on the right side and turn the motor over, I see a spark, but there is no firing on the right cylinder when the left side cylinder is running. It seems that only the left cylinder fires and pushes the right with it. 
   This has been a long project and a complete restoration on a 1965 with low original miles. When I first cranked it both cylinders were working for a short time then the right side quit. 
   I thought it must be a bad original ignition coil so I replaced with a nos part. Same problem with replace nos coil. I have replaced all of the original electrical components. This is the type II engine. The two cylinders fire at the same time and there is only one ignition coil with two spark plug wires coming out of it. 
   Does anyone have any advise about what I could look at next or why the right side cylinder would not be firing? Was I wrong about the ignition coil being bad? Thank you for any advise. :?: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How do you remove left side crankcase cover on CL350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowdoyouremoveleft_t1534.html#1534</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Great info, thanks.

I am not going to have a chance for the next while to work on this, maybe even for two weeks, a hectic schedule to say the least.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks.
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>79 Honda CB 750F Charging Problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/79hondacb750fchargin_t1533.html#1533</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am the owner of a 79 Honda CB 750 F Super sport.  I am experiencing charging problems.  I have tried a new battery, replaced the regulator/rectifier and installed new brushes.  Nothing seems to work.  It is not recharging itself.  Any ideas what to try next?  Please help...I am becoming extremely frustrated.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How do you remove left side crankcase cover on CL350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowdoyouremoveleft_t1532.html#1532</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Yes, you can let the clutch cable stay with the cover or you can remove it by unhooking it from the clutch lifter on the backside of the cover.
Also watch out for the steel ball bearing that fits between the clutch push rod and the clutch lifter as this can sometimes fall out during disassembly.There really is nothing else under the cover you should have to deal with.
Happy riding. :!: 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How do you remove left side crankcase cover on CL350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowdoyouremoveleft_t1531.html#1531</link>
	<description><![CDATA[so then, it will hang by the clutch cable?

I suppose it is possible to be hanging by the dowell.

There was a tight fitting dowell on the front cover that i was able to manage.  I guess the potential for internal linkage was making me cautious.

Thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: How do you remove left side crankcase cover on CL350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/rehowdoyouremoveleft_t1530.html#1530</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Greg,
Once you have the shift linkage and the four cover bolts removed the cover should just come off by hand, if not there is a dowel pin on the lower side of the cover that can cause it to stick because it has become corroded. In that case use some penetrating oil on the dowel area and then some vigorous wiggling should get it off. Good luck. :)

Tom ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: carb problems (I think)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarbproblemsithink_t1529.html#1529</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brit,
It could be a few things causing the problem. You should first check to see if there is a air leak between the carburetor and the manifold and/or the manifold and the cylinder head.This could cause it to run lean. If they are good the next  thing you should check is the ignition timing on that cylinder.If the timing is retarded it can cause the symptoms you described. Also check the float level on that carburetor, if it's low it can cause that cylinder to run lean. I hope this helps. Happy riding.   :) 
Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>How do you remove left side crankcase cover on CL350?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/howdoyouremoveleftsi_t1528.html#1528</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm talking about the rear cover of course, the front one with the stator comes off easy enough, but i need to use a bungee to hold the weight of the assembly off the wiring.  

I'm trying to get into the starter clutch is my reasoning for removing the rear cover and then eventually the front cover.

I am not sure what I'm being hung up on, if it is internal linkage or if it is the clutch cable.

Also, if there are any tips and tricks not to screw thisup will be welcomed!

Thanks,
Greg
]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>pink wire fireblade2002?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/pinkwirefireblade200_t1527.html#1527</link>
	<description><![CDATA[i have a 2002 fireblade. cant get it running. i am a experienced mechaninic but have trouble with a pink wire from ignition switch to ecu. have been told this is a resistor wire with zenor diode for security. without its original key ignition the bike wont start. is there a way of bypassing this pink wire. please help its only done 14000 miles and wants to live again.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>CB750 K0 </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/cb750k0_t1526.html#1526</link>
	<description><![CDATA[ Hi, I need some help. I think I might have the original add for the CB 750 K. It is about 3foot by 2.5, a golden four Printed on foil. Can somone one help with this. Many thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>carb problems (I think)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/carbproblemsithink_t1525.html#1525</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 72 cl350, and when I attempt to start it, the right side runs fine, but the left will run a very short amount of time, make a popping type sound that sounds like it's coming from the carb, cut out, and then do the whole thing again. Once when it did this, the carb actually kicked back off of the intake boot. I think it's a carb problem, though i've cleaned everything and all the jets and passages seem clear, though I could very well be wrong. Any ideas?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb400n big bore.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/cb400nbigbore_t1524.html#1524</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hello. im new to the forum, wondering if anybody has tryed to big bore a superdream? ive resleeved the barrels to acomadate dr350 pistons gaining 6 grams extra weight on each side. upon initiall rebuild found that piston skirt meet with crank web. first thought of removing web material but wondering if this will affect the balance weights. please anybody stupid enough to be intrested let me no what you think before i blow up �500.00 of engineering. thankyou jon from Bristol.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Tire sizes </title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/tiresizes_t1523.html#1523</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm cleaning up my old '71 CB350, and I've been reading up on Avon AM26 Road Rider tires. Stock fronts would be 90/90-18, and stock rears would be 100/90-18, but could I go just a tad bigger on both without clearance problems? I know I had a CL175 before and I don't recall what size tire I put on the back, but I had to take the chain guard off to use it, which kept it from passing inspection!  D'oh!  

I'm just thinking about 100/90-18 for the front, and 110/90-18 for the rear.  Anyone try it?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cl 350 Exhaust assembly</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recl350exhaustassemb_t1522.html#1522</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Did you ever find a solution? This week I'm ordering a new Dunstall-style exhaust for my CB350, which currently has a '68 or '69 CL350 exhaust on it. I'm planning on listing the CL setup on Ebay when it comes off, so let me know if you still need that bracket and I can just sell it without it.  I'll also be selling a nice but faded red '71 CB350 gas tank, so if anyone's nebbing around on the forum and needs one, let me know.  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CB350 K1 parts help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cb350k1partshe_t1521.html#1521</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I've seen a few '69 CB and CL 350 fenders on Ebay this past week or so with the reflector, while I shopped around for a '71 CL fender for my CB350 (I'm not of fan of the skinny fender mounts).  I even thought about getting one of those with the reflector, for more vintage goodness, but decided against it.  Heck, I even saw an NOS CL350 fender on there - never installed! My method is to get on Ebay, put in a search, narrow it down by catagory, sort the results by price or ending soonest or whatever, and then just bookmark it and keep the link on the toolbar (with Mozilla, not Internet Explorer, but they all work basically the same).  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Cb 350 K4 Tank</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recb350k4tank_t1520.html#1520</link>
	<description><![CDATA[There are a handful of products you could use to fix it; I think Kreem would probably be your best bet.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>handling question...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/handlingquestion_t1519.html#1519</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What is the handling like on the older mopeds?

c90
fs1e
ss50
cl50 etc...

Trying to make a informed choice on which classic I wish to invest it for my pleasure :D]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda ss50</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/hondass50_t1518.html#1518</link>
	<description><![CDATA[What motorbikes use the ss50 frame?

ss50
cl50?

any others?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Hello...</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hello_t1517.html#1517</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Big hello guyz, I'm looking to buy a classic honda moped and lookout for me pestering for info :D]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>&apos;71-&apos;73 CB350 Tank Decals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/71-73cb350tankdecals_t1516.html#1516</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I'm toying with the idea of having my tank, side covers, headlight, and fork covers repainted, and though I've found decal sets for every odd model (including my old dog of a CB500T that I parted ways with), I cannot find a single set for the CB350.  Ideally, I'd like the '73 version without the thick white stripe, but I'd take anything at this point.  I know a lot of them, like the CB500F, just had pinstripes to mask a two-tone paint job, but I don't think that's the case with the CB350, since the black portions of the CB360 were just a decal.  Any ideas?  I am not a paint/bodywork person, and whatever I end up doing will be carried out by someone who knows a thing or two.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: noooob to cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renoooobtocb350_t1515.html#1515</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Use motorcycle oil 10 w 40 just like it says on the dip stick. 
I use Castrol 10 w 40 semi synthetic motorcycle oil in my 71 CL350 and just changed it again this morning. Will change it again next week too because it was so unbelievably dirty today and it only had 250 miles on it.]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>noooob to cb350</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/noooobtocb350_t1514.html#1514</link>
	<description><![CDATA[just bought a 71 cb350 ...quick tune up ..put new wires and plugs ...new tank ...and am in the process of rebuilding the carbs ...my question is im gonna change the oil and was planning on using 10w 40 ...but it crossed my mind wen i went to go buy motorcycle garde that mabye i should run regular because im not sure what was available in 71 but im guessing they designed it to run on regular 10w 40 ...but i def dont wanna mess up the clutch .....any body got an idea??]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: New to honda cb350 questions</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/renewtohondacb350que_t1513.html#1513</link>
	<description><![CDATA[just bought a 71 cb350 ...put new wires and plugs ...new tank ...and am in the process of rebuilding the carbs ...my question is im gonna change the oil and was planning on using 10w 40 ...but it crossed my mind wen i went to go buy motorcycle garde that mabye i should run regular because im not sure what was available in 71 but im guessing they designed it to run on regular 10w 40 ...but i def dont wanna mess up the clutch .....any body got an idea??]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: My 71 CL350K3 Scrambler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remy71cl350k3scrambl_t1512.html#1512</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Here is my little CL on Mulholland Hwy up from the Rock Store.
Picture taken by www.rockstorephotos.com {Paul}
]]></description>
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<item>
	<title>cm250t engine same as cb250n?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/cm250tenginesameascb_t1511.html#1511</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
this is my first posting and hope some ones knowledge will help me out,ive just brought a cm250t, and would like to service/upgrade the engine, i think i read some where that the engine in a cb250n is the engine thats in the cm250t! does anyone know if thats correct.
many thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: My 71 CL350K3 Scrambler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remy71cl350k3scrambl_t1510.html#1510</link>
	<description><![CDATA[It looks good! The stock mufflers really set it off! It will make a great ride for someone. :)

Tom ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 cl350 Ignition Coil.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cl350ignitioncoi_t1509.html#1509</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I followed Bill's advice and....





Ray - 

Two of each -
Coil  # Part #17-6805
wires # Part #23-2906
Caps # Part #23-3117



I had to fab a couple of little flat  brackets to adapt them to the stock coil mounts, then it slipped right into place.
New Condensors got mounted off on the frame nearby.
More details here - this is a PDF file, might take a minute to load.



Provides fat blue spark, great stuff, now igntion is out of the equation. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>My 71 CL350K3 Scrambler</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/my71cl350k3scrambler_t1508.html#1508</link>
	<description><![CDATA[For the past few months I have been messing with this 71 Scrambler trying to make her road worthy and presentable so I can sell her and buy another old Honda to revive.



She is starting to look good and is almost done as far as I am going to fix her. 
The next item is new headlight ears which I am going to install today.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>gas leak from carburettors</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/gasleakfromcarburett_t1507.html#1507</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I just bought a 1978 CB550, and drove it 8hrs back home. After a few days two of the carburettors are leaking fuel. Not only dripping, but it runs. When i pull over the fuel tap, it stops. I opened to see if the carburettor float valve was stuck. It looks OK from my point of view. It floats back up when i tried, and the float valve is quite loose like it should.
Anyone have any ideas what this can be? I'm totally new on this, it's my first motorcycle, and i love these classics. 

Well, even when leaking, i had to try starting it. The sound is like a 3 cyl. engine, and it's quite hard to fire up.

Anyone that can help???

RH]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: parts wanted</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/repartswanted_t1506.html#1506</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Alan,

You might want to contact SOHC, there is at least one member that has that bike:
http://www.sohc4.us/?q=gallery&g2_itemId=389

Perhaps they can inform you about these parts. Perhaps you can come back and share this info for other ppl.

]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>parts wanted</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/partswanted_t1505.html#1505</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi, iam new to this site, can anybody help, looking for parts for honda jc 56 /58 models, parts needed are silencers, rear light lenses, benly badges, carb, handlebar levers, speedo, horn.i am n the uk, but have some one in the us to ship to.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: ignision coils</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reignisioncoils_t1504.html#1504</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Travis,


You mean something like ?
 :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1962 honda ca95 benly (cafe)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/1962hondaca95benlyca_t1503.html#1503</link>
	<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1962 honda ca95 benly (cafe)</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/1962hondaca95benlyca_t1502.html#1502</link>
	<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>ignision coils</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/ignisioncoils_t1501.html#1501</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am looking for a new or used set of coils for 71 cl350 scrambler. Dose anyone know where to get these or of any place that is making new ones?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: $600 for 2 1972 Honda CL350 1 is a scrambler`</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re600for21972hondacl_t1500.html#1500</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Can you send me some pictures of the bikes? I am interested in them. 
redsky42o@hotmail.com]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: $600 for 2 1972 Honda CL350 1 is a scrambler`</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re600for21972hondacl_t1499.html#1499</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Can you send me some pictures of the bikes? I am interested in them. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Stator problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restatorproblems_t1498.html#1498</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Brit!
Stator output should be about 15vac at idle (1200 rpm) between the pink and white wires from the stator and 18vac at idle between the pink and yellow wires. At 3000 rpm the voltage the voltage between the pink and white wires should increase to 35vac and between the pink and yellow wires it should increase to 40vac. This test must be performed with the stator unplugged from the main harness. You should allow yourself  /-10% with these spec's. You can also do some static checks by testing for continuity between the pink and white wires and the pink and yellow. You should have continuity between these wires.If you don't have continuity on either test the stator is bad. Also check to see if the stator is grounded out by checking between the white wire and the engine block and the yellow wire and the engine block with your ohm meter,it should read OFL,if there is any resistance indicated the stator is bad. Make sure the engine is at operating temperature while doing the tests. Happy riding  :D 

Tom]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Fuel petock, which way is off</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/refuelpetock whichwa_t1497.html#1497</link>
	<description><![CDATA[9 o clock should be on reserve, 6 for on and 3 for off]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Stator problems</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/statorproblems_t1496.html#1496</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have been having trouble recently with my alternator on a 72 cl350, and i suspect the stator. However, i want to test it before replacing it, but i have no idea what it should be putting out. I have a multimeter, but does anyone know what kind of voltage/amperage i should be getting? Any help is greatly appreciated.
-Brit]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: honda dream forum?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newforumrequests_f11/rehondadreamforum_t1495.html#1495</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Let's hope so!
Anyways, there is a new forum brought to live at the 

You can start of by posting your first questions and remarks there  :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Welcome</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/hondadream_f22/welcome_t1494.html#1494</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi and welcome to the new Honda Dream forum.
If you have questions about any model of the Dream type then discuss it here!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1965 honda dream  305</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re1965hondadream305_t1493.html#1493</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Ryan!

Happy riding to you as well!
Now that the weather is clearing, I just took my bike from the shed and gave it a go :)]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>okay!! honda 500 four carb sync!!!!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/okayhonda500fourcarb_t1492.html#1492</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hey there everone!! im trying to help my girlfreinds dad restore a honda 500 four and its going alrite atm but were trying to 'sync' the carbs using one of the carb syncing tools which you hang on the bars and its got four lillte rods  which you connect to the carbs!!! 
THING IS! where do you connect them??? in the book it says about little cross head screws on the left hand side off the carbs which you then screw the adapters which then the with the vacume move the rods!! but where the bloody hells the little screws? any one done this before? pictures would be a total result!! 
thanks dom  :roll: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>hey everyone! needing that totally priceless thing, that is everyones knowledge!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/heyeveryoneneedingth_t1491.html#1491</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hey there everyone! my names dominic and im here to try and soak up all that pricless know-how you all have!! im currently helping my girlfreinds dad restore a honda 500 four and i thought this would be the best place to get some of those priceless tips!
 so i warn you i may get very annoying!!! lol :lol: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB350 oil leak - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilleak-hel_t1490.html#1490</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you so much.  I believe the seal is gone.  The only thing I can see is the pin through the side of the crankcase and what looks to be a bearing on the inside of the crankcase.  I guess the seal fell out riding it home, or when the pin was bent?  I will get the parts tomorrow and go at it.  Thanks again!  Really appreciate the help.


Brett ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB350 oil leak - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilleak-hel_t1489.html#1489</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Brett, you should be able to pull the rod out by hand, just grab the end of it and pull. If the rod is bent really bent bad it may be stuck so you may have to grab it with a pliers and pull it out. It's possible the oil seal might still be OK because with the rod being bent it is not centered properly in the seal casing it to leak. With a new rod it might stop leaking. If not you can use a cotter pin remover to pull the seal out. Put the point of the cotter pin puller inside the hole of the seal just enough to hook the back side of it then you should be able to pry it out. Hope this helps. :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB350 oil leak - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilleak-hel_t1488.html#1488</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you Tom!  I appreciate the help.  Next question.  How the heck to I get the rod and seal out?  Does it pull straight out?  I am affriad to pull it out without breaking something else.  I sure hope it is that easy?  I was affriad I would have to pull the entire engine out to replace the seal?  I can provide a picture if that would help?



Thanks!


Brett]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 71 CB350 oil leak - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re71cb350oilleak-hel_t1487.html#1487</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Bret,The post you refer to is actually the clutch lifter rod and it should not be bent. Because the engine drive sprocket is so close to the lifter rod on this engine if the drive chain is excessively loose and/or the chain was thrown, it can bend the lifter rod. You can pull the lifter rod out from where you see it and not disturb anything in the clutch. Once the rod is out you can pry the old lifter rod seal out and install a new one.I have found that it helps to radius the edge of the crankcase where the seal fits using some emery cloth, this will help prevent the new seal from tearing on the outside edge during installation. Drive the new seal in until it is flush with the crankcase. Install a good lifter rod and once it's back together you should also readjust the clutch.  Happy riding. :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 CB350 oil leak - HELP</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cb350oilleak-help_t1486.html#1486</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Good day all.  I am new to the Honda world.  I just bought a 71 honda CB350.  Ran great on the way home.  Took it out for a spin the same day, and it started leaking oil from the crankcase (left side).  I went and got a new crankcase gasket, out it on and started her up.  Still leaks.  I pulled the rear crank case panel off, and I noticed that the oil was coming from the clutch post seal (post that clutch lever slides over when you put the panel on).  Also, it appears that the clutch post may be bent?  I don't know if it is supposed to be bent that way or not?  How do I replace the seal?  Do I have to remove the right side cover and go in from that side, or do I have to pull the engine and replace the seal (or all of the seals while I am in there?)?

I bought a Clymers manual, but it hasn't gotten to me yet.  I am hoping that it will answer all of my future questions.  I am trying to get the bike in shape for the spring.  Can someone please help?


Thanks!

Brett  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>cb 450 petrol tank</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/cb450petroltank_t1485.html#1485</link>
	<description><![CDATA[can anybody please tell me the correct petrol tank for a 1970 cb 450k2,i have looked on the parts list and it shows the tank with chrome panels also shows the plain cb style tank. were the k2s only usa models,my bike is drum braked.
thanks
Dave.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1965 honda dream  305</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/1965hondadream305_t1484.html#1484</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hello all i am new to this and just wanted to say  hi...happy riding]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1965 honda dream piston size??</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/1965hondadreampiston_t1483.html#1483</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 1965 honda dream and i need 2 get a set of pistons and rings..the pistons that came out of is have ART on one side of them and cb77 on the other side..these markings are on each side where the ristpins go..the only other markings on them os a number 5 stamped on the inside..the manuals that i have and have read say that the size should be stamped on the top of the crown of the piston,,,and there isnt no markings there...the manual also said to look on the gap of the ring where the STD is there should be a .25,,,.50,,,,,.75,,,,.100...there are none of these markings and i dont want o get the wrong parts for my bike...any feedback would be greatly appreciated...thank you and have a good day..]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>simplifying wiring on my cafe project</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/simplifyingwiringonm_t1482.html#1482</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hello all,
just hoping someone could tell me... i want to minimize the wiring harness i'm rebuilding to remove the signals and starter lines, no problems here, but also want to take off the ignition switch and reconnect this to be a more subtle switch using the preexisting turn signal switch. ie left turn being the usual first position on the key switch, right turn being full lights and ignition.

keep anyone trying to steal it confused, shed some weight, and streamline things a little.

any idea how to do this? even if the switch just operates on an off setting would be fine too -  just dont know how to run the wiring.

it would appear the fused red wire could go into the left switch cluster, black and brown run off of both positions and the white and brown combo off just the right as well? 

feasable?

thanks]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Just picked up my 1st street bike.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rejustpickedupmy1sts_t1481.html#1481</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Gary,

CMS has OEM parts for the 

Might want to check them out.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71 cl350 Ignition Coil.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71cl350ignitioncoil_t1480.html#1480</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I need to get 2 new coils for my bike and I was doing some research and found out I can use any coil (same volts and olms) from car. The auto ones are about 2 times bigger. Has anyone heard of this and if so, where can I mount them?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Just picked up my 1st street bike.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/justpickedupmy1ststr_t1479.html#1479</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I picked up a, imo, very clean Honda CB360t.  I know this bike gets a lot of guff for it's shortcomings but as I am just starting out on the street I figured it to be a good starter bike.  

Everything on the bike seems to work very well and the bike is responsive and light.

Here are some pics.

If any of you guys know where to get OEM parts for this bikes and would like to share please let me know.  I would like to find a perfect seat for the CB for sure.






]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: making new gaskets</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/remakingnewgaskets_t1478.html#1478</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,

You should take great care when selecting your gasket material.
You can probably get materials from .
Or contact the ppl from  for info on which material to use.

good luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>making new gaskets</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/makingnewgaskets_t1477.html#1477</link>
	<description><![CDATA[my old 72 cl350, as far as i know, has all original gaskets, and most are actually working fine, but my left engine crankcase cover gasket recently cracked and started leaking oil when running. rather then buying new oem gaskets, i thought it would be much cheaper, and easier to find, to make my own out of sheets of gasket material. i was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on thickness, i was thinking 1/32, 1/16 seems too thick. also, what type of gasket material should i use? will just plain old rubber work, or should i get a different or synthetic material due to the engine getting hot when running. i'd like to buy a material that would work for not only the engine crankcase, but also other gaskets, like carbs, if possible. any advice would be much appreciated! thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>69 cd175 electrical question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/69cd175electricalque_t1476.html#1476</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I am trying to put this bike back together and I have a mystery wire.  There is a brown wire coming from the AC Generator that is connected to nothing on the other end.  I cannot find any other loose wires on the bike.  The wiring diagram has 3 wires coming from the AC generator and my bike has 4 (pink, white, yellow and brown).  The only brown wire listed on the wiring diagram is for a rear turn signal.  Can anyone help me?  I should also clarify that the brown wire is not from the neutral switch.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Only running on the left cylinder, Ignition?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reonlyrunningonthele_t1475.html#1475</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello Edy,Have you verified that you do not have spark on the right cylinder? An easy way to do this is to pull the spark plug cap off the plug and put a spare plug in it, make sure the base of the plug is grounded to the engine by laying it on the cylinder head then crank the engine over and you should see a spark at the tip of the plug. If you do not check to see if you have voltage at the points. The points that are on the right side of the points plate with the blue wire going to them are for the right cylinder. With the points open you should be reading battery voltage at the spring on the points. With the points closed the voltage should drop to almost zero, if it doesn't drop the points are probably dirty. If the points are OK check continuity of the coil by disconnecting from the harness and checking between the blue and black/white wires,you should have continuity.If not the coil has an open winding and will have to be replaced. If you haven't already,make sure the compression is good on that cylinder.I hope this helps.      :) ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1969 CB350 K1 parts help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1969cb350k1partshelp_t1474.html#1474</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi! So I just bought my first bike, '69 CB350 in the Candy Red/White. I've been trying to find some parts to get it stock again, but I'm having the hardest time finding one piece. The K1 was the only model to have the front fender reflector. (I believe. Correct me if I'm wrong.) I realize its a shot in the dark, but I can't find anywhere that has an old one available. Any help out there? The Honda part number is 33741-077-671, but no place I've checked has any. Thanks!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Only running on the left cylinder, Ignition?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/onlyrunningontheleft_t1473.html#1473</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hello all, I've been working on a new to me 1968 CL350. 
It starts up a little reluctantly but OK and only runs on the left side. I've taken apart the carbs, cleaned and new gaskets. They actually looked pretty darn good. The right plug was wet. I replaced the plugs and the right one is still unused looking after running it again. The pipe stays cold. The points and timing seem to be OK at first glance. 
Could someone walk me through troubleshooting the ignition with a meter?

Thanks, Edy]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Honda CB125RS owner in need of help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/rehondacb125rsowneri_t1472.html#1472</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a CB125RS, great learner bike.


I have no idea if you have found a source of information yet but i have the name of a supplyer in the uk who will normaly have the parts for this model.

I also have a manule for the CB125RS if you would like me to try and scan it through to you i can. :D ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>kx 125 1990</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/kx1251990_t1471.html#1471</link>
	<description><![CDATA[need to know how tight the bolts on my clutch springs bolts  hav to be tightend right up or just finger tight]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Oil Emulsification</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/oilemulsification_t1470.html#1470</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,
My CB750 DOHC has a problem of oil emmulsifying. The 'mayonaise' is working up the gearbox breathers and has blocked my jets.

I am using a 10-40 fully synthetic oil (Castrol Pro)and average a 100 miles a journey when I use it at the weekends.

Any body got any ideas.

Some one said that the CB900 has a similar problem

Cheers]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1469.html#1469</link>
	<description><![CDATA[After you remove the rotor bolt the puller will thread into the end of the rotor. It will require some force on the puller to remove the rotor. The factory rotor puller was designed to be struck with a hammer, if you are using a bolt, an air impact wrench will work good. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: Fork oil in 1970 CB350K2</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reforkoilin1970cb350_t1468.html#1468</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You can use dextron type ATF,it works good in those old style forks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb350k2 supersport fork seals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350k2supersp_t1467.html#1467</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Thank you so much for your response!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Fork oil in 1970 CB350K2</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/forkoilin1970cb350k2_t1466.html#1466</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My shop manual says to use a 10W-30 fork oil.  The oil that came out looks like motor oil.  The Honda shop has 5W or 10W red hydralic oil for forks.  Am I supposed to use 10W-30 motor oil? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Sparking Plugs</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/sparkingplugs_t1465.html#1465</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a honda classic, year 1965 model cb72, has anyone any idea which is the correct spark plugs for my bike,thanks, colin.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cb350k2 supersport fork seals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cb350k2supersp_t1464.html#1464</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The chrome sleeve is a slip fit onto the aluminum fork case.Because of it's age the cover may be difficult to remove because of dirt and corrosion.Try some penetrating oil,you might also want to heat up the chrome sleeve with a hot air gun to help loosen it.Once the sleeve is removed you should be able to see the lock ring that holds the seal. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1463.html#1463</link>
	<description><![CDATA[this does help a lot, thank you. the information on the sprocket play and exact measurements of the rotor puller tool is particularly helpful. however, how does the tool work exactly? I've read some instructions and all I've found is just "remove the rotor with the tool" does it screw the rotor off somehow, or do you just screw it in and pull really hard? and again, thanks for the measurements and clutch wear info.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/restarterclutchprobl_t1462.html#1462</link>
	<description><![CDATA[The most common problems I have seen with the 350 twin starter clutch is that the three flat head screws that hold the clutch outer to the back of the generator rotor can come loose causing the clutch to act erratically,also the roller spring caps can wear and stick inside the clutch outer causing it not to engage properly. Once I did see a cracked clutch outer but I think that's rare. The sprocket should move back and forth on the shaft no more than a couple of millimeters as it is guided by a retainer plate. To remove the generator rotor you will need to have a rotor puller that has a 14mm diameter and a 1.5mm thread pitch at least 50mm long. A hardened bolt of the same dimensions will also work.
Hope this helps :!: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1970 cb350k2 supersport fork seals</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/1970cb350k2superspor_t1461.html#1461</link>
	<description><![CDATA[How do I remove the fork tube from the housing to change seals?  My repair manual shows a fork w/ a boot that has a lock ring above the seal.  My forks are bootless w/ a chrome sleeve and I don't see a lock ring inside. :shock: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>starter clutch problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/starterclutchproblem_t1460.html#1460</link>
	<description><![CDATA[so i restored a 72 cl350 last summer as my first bike, and when i got to the electric starter, it never really worked right, but it kick started fine so i just ignored it. now before i start riding again this year i would like to get it working. when i press the button, it spins fine, but the clutch doesn't engage, except once. i did get it to engage and stay engaged, but once i quit, it never did it again. also, once i let go of the button, it sounds like at the very end once its almost done spinning, it catches just a little. when i took the crank case cover off and removed the starer chain to play with the starter sprocket, the sprocket had a bit of free play back and forth along the drive shaft/ rod its mounted on. when i moved it toward the clutch and spun it by hand, it engaged, when i pushed it toward the engine, it wouldnt. is this just a worn out clutch, or is my problem the free play the sprocket has? i wasn't able to get the generator rotor off, any suggestions on how to do that?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1970 cl 350  clutch won&apos;t disengage</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1970cl350clutchwon_t1459.html#1459</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Did something break? The metallic sound you mentioned sounds ominous.. It could have been the cable breaking somewhere or the linkage inside the clutch cover, like the bracket on the clutch cam. There are three metal balls that ride the cam that pushes the rod, if the clutch cable or adjuster on the cover was very mal-adjusted it's possible that they could have abandoned their proper place. Just make sure the cable is doing its thing to rule out the clutch itself. Your loose, floppy clutch lever is a very telling symptom. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 1969 CL350 Cylinder Cuts Out</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/re1969cl350cylinderc_t1458.html#1458</link>
	<description><![CDATA[IF the carb float is adjusted so it hangs too low in the float bowl while still keeping the fuel valve shut (the metal tang that is bent to determine float height), the engine will drink all the gas in the float bowl faster and lower the float faster under higher engine speeds, eventually starving the cylinder of fuel and making it cut out. 

When you cut the throttle (as a human response to a suddenly dead cylinder because you know deep down that it's not getting the fuel it needs) the engine demands less fuel and allows the float bowl to refill easier and then it fires up again at low engine speeds until you throttle it, when this process repeats. 

And of course check the timing because this could also cause the cylinder to cut out. I'm only suggesting the float height because the same thing happened to me. 

Check the carb model number on the side of the carb. These are the floats heights I have:

350A - 19mm
3B, 3C - 21mm
3D, 722A, 726A, 728A - 26mm

Make sure you use the right float settings for the carbs you're using. I had the wrong setting for a while and experienced exactly what you have. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: fire out the tailpipe</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/refireoutthetailpipe_t1457.html#1457</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I know this post is ancient, but I had this happen. The problem was the points cam was slipped on 180 degrees off, or upside down. I incorrectly figured out that the camshaft was installed upside down and tore the engine apart to fix it and then discovered the reversed points cam. Just remove the points plate, remove the 10mm bolt holding the points cam to the end of the camshaft, and pull it off and turn 180. This was a very silly mistake on my part, but definitely resulted in huge backfires and flames from the exhaust. ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: carb synchronize question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/recarbsynchronizeque_t1456.html#1456</link>
	<description><![CDATA[You possibly could do it like that but you would have to fabricate your own access ports to the carburetor vacuum chamber. It may not be worth the effort. These carbs are normally tuned by ear and sight.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1455.html#1455</link>
	<description><![CDATA[If the starter motor is running but the engine won't turn over, you may want to check the starter clutch located behind the generator rotor.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>carb synchronize question</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/carbsynchronizequest_t1454.html#1454</link>
	<description><![CDATA[In my years messing with hot rods I noticed how some who were using dual quad carb intakes, specifically dual holley 4 barrel carbs with vacuum secondaries, used what you could call a vacuum balance tube connected to the caps of the vacuum diaphragms on both carbs to help insure the vacuum secondaries of both carbs were getting the same amount of vacuum thus helping to insure the secondaries of both carbs opened at the same rate.

My question is could this same thought process be used on the vacuum diaphragm caps/covers on my 71 CB350?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Fuel petock, which way is off</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/fuelpetock whichwayi_t1453.html#1453</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I know this is simple but I have gas leaking in the garage. I have the long handle pointed forward. Wrong?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1452.html#1452</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My electric starter will not work either. It has new brushes in it and still does not work.
My solenoid is brand new from Honda.
I bought a starter motor from ebay and will put the new brushes in it from my starter motor after I clean and polish the commutator.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectricstarter_t1450.html#1450</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Do you have the right battery fitted, is it the correct amp/hours?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>1984 magna vf700c tachometer problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/1984magnavf700ctacho_t1449.html#1449</link>
	<description><![CDATA[When I bought my magna the tach was stuck at 2000 rpm after riding a little it now moves from 2000 to 4000 rpm no hire or lower what could be the problem?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>replacing carb screws</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/cbfour_f16/replacingcarbscrews_t1448.html#1448</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a 74 cb350 f and my carb screws are stripped, I'd like to replace them with hex heads. Anyone have an idea on where I could get them and what size/length/amount I'd need? ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: cl360 clutch cable problem</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/recl360clutchcablepr_t1447.html#1447</link>
	<description><![CDATA[check adjustment at engine cover?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 72 Cl175 exhaust troubles</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/re72cl175exhausttrou_t1446.html#1446</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi,

If you are really sure that there are no bolts etc attached, then you should verify if the pipes aren't (tag)-welded.
If that's not the case either, then you might consider heating up the outer pipe, because sometimes pipe connections are made with heating-cooling-shrinking.

Good luck!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>electric starter</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/electricstarter_t1445.html#1445</link>
	<description><![CDATA[My starter won't start the bike. I hear either a spinning noise or it won't turn over at all. I can still kick-start it. After i've driven to the store and finished shopping, the electric starter starts it right up. In other words, the starter won't start a cold engine but will start a warm one.
The chain and teeth look good, it's not stripped. Is the starter just too weak?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Honda CB125RS owner in need of help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/hondacb125rsownerinn_t1444.html#1444</link>
	<description><![CDATA[hi everyone Gary here!
have taken charge of a 1983 Honda CB125RSD. I have never owned a bike before and have this bike to learn as i go along. Its a non runner and I would like to do a frame upward rebuild, with the intention of learning on it after i get it road worthy as my reward.

Can anyone give me any information about this model and if it shares any parts with other model to help me when i'm serching for bits and parts.Absolutley any information about the models history, where i can get parts in the uk or elsewhwere, advice or memories from previous owners of these bikes. Just drop me a line for a chat!

Many thanks to you all Gary  ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 cl175 exhaust</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/72cl175exhaust_t1443.html#1443</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anyone know the trick to getting the exhaust of my bike?  tried everything and it still wont come out]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>72 Cl175 exhaust troubles</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/techcorner_f8/72cl175exhausttroubl_t1442.html#1442</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Anyone know a trick to getting the exhaust off my 72 cl175?  I just found a parts bike for really cheap and while stripping it down got stuck on the pipes.  I loosened everything there is to be loosened, and have tried to muscle them out, but still nothing!]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: electrical, please help</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/reelectrical pleaseh_t1441.html#1441</link>
	<description><![CDATA[There's probably a wire grounding out from your kill switch, maybe where it enters the handlebars.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>71&apos; Honda cb350.  Smoke coming out of engine breather.  Help!!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/71hondacb350smokecom_t1440.html#1440</link>
	<description><![CDATA[So I rebuilt my bike from ground up, besides the engine.  Did the timing and all.  My bike kicks over nice and idles really well.  It sounds perfect, no ticking, nothing.  I take it out for about a 15min ride and all of a sudden it starts smoking out of the engine breather hose on top, and reacts sluggishly and hesitant with the throttle, and then it eventually kills, then it won't start.  Any ideas?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Any carb experts here?</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/anycarbexpertshere_t1439.html#1439</link>
	<description><![CDATA[I have a cb400 with 1 of the 4 carbs rotten. I was thinking of replacing all of them. I found some for 100 to 150. Should I stick to cb 400 carbs? would cb500 carbs be better for the increased cfm? or would that be to much air. I don't know much about this stuff. Any other cb or after market carb suggestions?]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: 73 CL350K4!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/re73cl350k4_t1438.html#1438</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi Scott, 

If you can somehow identify a keynumber then you might successfully find .

For the exhaust, well perhaps the  may give you a good starting point!

Good luck 
 :wink: ]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>73 CL350K4!</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/newusers_f3/73cl350k4_t1437.html#1437</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Just picked this bike up for $50! Its been sitting since 1984 and is all origional except for the CB350 exhaust. Looking forward to a new project. The only problem is the owner didnt have the keys for it. Anyway if anyone has any tips on where I should start me restor I would appreciate it. Thanks.]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>sl350 seat</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/350twinnew_f20/sl350seat_t1436.html#1436</link>
	<description><![CDATA[Hi
I am about to acquire an SL350 minus its seat. Is this seat common to any other model ? Anybody out there with a spare???

cheers
Budgie]]></description>
</item>

<item>
	<title>Re: CB 350 four. For sale.</title>
	<link>http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-forum/generaltalk_f5/recb350fourforsale_t1435.html#1435</link>
	<description><![CDATA[PLEASE PLEASE ignore my previous post - or tell me how I can remove it. I thought I was emailing the first writer privately. My email address and phone number are not for general consumtion.
Webmaster, please can you remove my posting.

Kind regards to all,

Idiot Newbie Rog

]]></description>
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